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DIY 8mm Telecine Project

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Cyrix_2k

Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2003
Location
Frederick, MD
I suppose this belongs here. I've been trying to digitize my families historic media which consist of 35mm kodachrome slides and 8mm film. I'm currently scanning the slides on a Epson V330 flatbed, but will probably buy a proper film scanner in the future. The 8mm isn't so straight forward.

There are different methods to digitize 8mm film. I believe most people project the video on a screen as normal, then record the screen. This method leaves a lot of quality on the table. Another option is to scan the film on a flatbed (in strips), then extract individual frames using special software and eventually stitch them back together. The flatbed method works well, but is slow, manual, and it's hard to hold every frame flat against the glass bed. The third method is to convert a projector to hold a camera and advance the film frame-by-frame, taking a picture each time. This is the method I am pursuing.

To start off, I acquired my grandfather's old 8mm projector, a Bell and Howell Regent Design 122 Model L. This is a rather nice standard 8 (silent) projector. I was initially concerned there would not be enough room to mount a camera between the film reels, but a later design revision made it a non-issue.

BeMcAJd.png

After making sure the projector itself was still in working condition - it is *always* a good idea to have a base line, I then started disassembling the projector to figure out how it works. For the telecine to work, I need to have control over the motor so that each frame can be advanced individually, rather than at at 18 frames-per-second.

2yEvKAq.jpg
^test 8mm film

I removed the entire motor & lamp assembly to find the shutter assembly. The shutter consists of three blades that spin. Each revolution of the shutter advances the film exactly one frame, and the shutter interrupts the light three times. This is because 18 fps is slow and we would see the film flashing - by flashing the same image three times in a row, it appears to be more persistent.

BVRvVxA.png

It turns out that this projector is a great telecine platform because of the way it is assembled and because the the shutter rotates once per frame. I removed the shutter "blade" and machined a gear from an old cassette deck to fit in place. I will fit a new plate to the back of the projector and drive the newly fitted gear with a DC motor, also from the cassette deck. Unfortunately, the motor is not a stepper motor so a closed circuit feedback system will need to be used to determine the position of the film.

oMIpYCt.png

I will be controlling the motor using a microcontroller, either a parallax propeller that I already own or an arduino. Neither is able to directly drive a "powerful" DC motor so I built a quick circuit to control the motor.

3U6DNcb.png

After it was bread boarded, I then worked on some crude PWM code to drive the motor at different power levels. It seems to work well enough, but it can certainly be optimized.

eSxkTIr.jpg

Above is a visualization of the PWM code running. Each square is 1 ms on the x axis.

That's where I'm at now. I still need to mount the motor, mount an LED light source, provide feedback to the microcontroller, and then mount a camera (probably a webcam) to take pictures when triggered by the microcontroller.

Read more here http://www.rjnunnally.com/tag/telecine/ . I'll provide updates as the project progresses, but I work full time & go to school full time so I'm not sure what the time schedule will be.
 
Update - last night I made a new back plate for the projector, mounted the new DC motor, and ran a successful test. I was worried the motor wouldn't be powerful enough, but it seems to be fine. In fact, with the motor at 100% duty cycle, it runs almost as fast as the original AC motor!

eaLnQbE.jpg

To fabricate the back plate, I started with the cover of an old ECU and traced the shape of the projector onto it. Then I cut out the shape with a dremel and drilled & tapped 3mm x .50 mounting holes for machine screws.

2hZ51bC.jpg

I sourced two identical gears from an old cassette deck. One was mounted to the projector in place of the original drive pulley while the other is mounted to the DC motor. Each gear has an inner and outer set of teeth; I'm using the outer set on the projector and the inner set on the motor. The inner gear needed to be cut out of the larger gear for clearance.

nED5KgZ.jpg

After I chopped the center out with a dremel, I ground it down using a grinder to make it round. This doesn't need to be perfect, it just can't hit anything in the projector.

KUs8Gxw.jpg

Afterwards, I drilled a hole slightly larger than the gear in the back plate, mounted the motor using a spacer, then ran the test with success :D
 
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