• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

EK custom loop LianLi O11D-XL

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.
A side question from me guys, I'm looking to upgrade from my Focus Plus Gold 650W to Corsair RMx Series RM850x 850W. There is an inscription on it saying that it's designed for "genuine corsair type 4 cable sets". Would that cause any issues with the LianLi Strimer Plus?
Well I just wrote a reply and somehow hit a back shortcut with my fat fingers. It should be okay, but won't be "officially supported" by Corsair. You use the stock cable and plug it into the PSU, then plug the extension cable into the stock cable and the other end of the extension cable into the component. i.e. PSU > genuine corsair type 4 cable > LianLi Strimer Plus > GPU.

Also why do you want to buy another PSU? You can list your components or plug them in to a calculator https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator to see if it's really necessary.
well, I have currently 10 fans running with 2 commander pros, on top of that will be added a custom loop with a lot of lighting and at some point ill switch my current hard drives and change to something like 3x4tb ssds and a few hdds

i just want to have enough air for the ryzen PBO and finally switch my UV to normal/oc for my rtx2080
What psu do you have? Fans and leds are low power items... with the parts you've listed, a quality 750W will be plenty.
I'm currently using the Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 650W. However guys no need to worry about it, I already ordered the Corsair RMx Series RM850x. I'll definitely replace the PSU, the old one will go into my other PC :)

Radiators will come tomorrow. I'll try to assemble everything dry on thursday, make a few pictures and come back to you guys here, I'm really afraid/not comfortable choosing how many fittings and what kind of fittings I need
Okay, the radiators arrived today. I ordered them in "new" condition and I'm afraid because from what I can tell, I see rust on them. How bad is that?


  • 20210602_122132.jpg
    3.3 MB · Views: 165
  • 20210602_122124.jpg
    2.8 MB · Views: 165
  • 20210602_121701.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 163
  • 20210602_122210.jpg
    2.7 MB · Views: 163
  • 20210602_122143.jpg
    2.6 MB · Views: 163
  • 20210602_122137.jpg
    2.6 MB · Views: 163
  • 20210602_122216.jpg
    2.8 MB · Views: 163
  • 20210602_122222.jpg
    3.1 MB · Views: 166
  • 20210602_122227.jpg
    2.6 MB · Views: 164
Not bad st all .... Not rust, those are copper fins with a light dusting of paint. You're good to go.
Heya Guys its me,

I've had a lot of time thinking about my custom loop, I've browsed, I've asked relentlessly, I want to pursue the finish line now

Attached you find my assembled parts in a dry setup, since I'm still deciding on the small stuff.

I've figured out what fittings/angle adapters I want to use, what liquid and what tube size.
Also I understand now the male and female part (not biology :D).

female attachment: EK-Quantum Torque HDC 16 - Black Nickel Product EAN: 3831109813867
male attachment: EK-Quantum Torque Rotary 90° - Black Nickel Product EAN: 3831109815984
tubes: EK Water Blocks EK-Loop Hard Tube 16/12mm 500mm Product EAN: 3831109835647
liquid: EK-CryoFuel Mystic Fog (Premix 1000mL) Product EAN: 3831109829912
plugs: EK-Quantum Torque Plug w/Badge - Black Nickel Product EAN: 3831109826287

This is what I have decided on for my custom loop, now I need to have a different question answered, what else should I add to my cart

Currently I have following things on my shopping list except the things mentioned above:
- EK-Leak Tester Product EAN: 3831109816738
- Filling Bottle (1000mL) Product EAN: 3831109869796
- EK-ATX Bridging Plug (24 pin) Product EAN: 3831109867716
- EK-Loop Connect - Flow Meter Product EAN: 3831109818152 (very tempted to buy it)
- do i need a temp sensor for the liquid?

Also I've seen some items that are called "anti-cyclone"?? Im quite confused to be honest


  • 20210603_110450.jpg
    3.2 MB · Views: 130
  • 20210603_110455.jpg
    3 MB · Views: 129
  • 20210603_110502.jpg
    2.5 MB · Views: 130
  • 20210603_110436.jpg
    2.6 MB · Views: 130
I was going to say use that opaque fluid for a maximum of 6 months and check it carefully for any sign of separation or breakdown. It can really muck up your blocks. EK's website says as much.

You don't need an anti cyclone for a distro plate (nor am I aware of how you'd install one). They go in the tubular reservoirs to prevent a cyclone from drawing air into the pump.

Your question about a temp sensor is not easy to answer. Need, no. Want, maybe. I use one, but many don't. How do you plan to control your fan speed. If you use the CPU temperature all your fans will ramp up and down with the slightest change in load. With those two big rads, you might be able to set the fan speed and forget it, but you might get higher temps under load. I don't believe you've discussed fans on fan control yet in the thread, what are your existing plans for that? Some motherboards have a built in temperature sensor input, but most do not. Some fan controllers or hubs (like the aqua computer quadro, octo and aquaero models), among others, do a good job of allowing you to set a fan curve based on the coolant temperature.
I'm currently using 2 commander pros, technically I have the ports I just dont know how I'll utilize that. What about the flowmeter, just a unnecessary gimmick?

And according to which temperature should I adjust fan curves etc? Usually I did that with the package temp. of my ryzen
If that's been working for you, but you're cooling the GPU too now, so in a game that heavily loads the GPU but not the CPU, you may be leaving something on the table. You may also be fine without it. I'm not sure how to integrate a temperature sensor into the Corsair ecosystem, but it looks like the commander pro has temp sensor inputs. I've thought about flow meters before, even purchased a cheep one that never worked. Ideally you want 1 GPM (gallon per minute) of flow, or at least 1-1.5 is the point of diminishing returns.

These things fall into the category of nice to have, not really essential though. I will say I was much happier with a temp sensor.
Hmm.. I'm not sure either. My temperatures have peaked at 60-63 degree celsius maximum while I was playing in summer. Thats in an aircooled setup except the AiO for the Ryzen. I guess EK doesn't sell fittings with a temp sensor in them
I've always used static fan speeds and no sensor. Whike it's nice to know, if there's enough radiator, setting fans to low and calling it a day is pretty easy. I'd imagine you could do that here too. :)
Do you guys have a few suggestions for me regarding the drain? Since EK suggests to change the liquid every 6months, figures that I need to drain quite a lot. How did you guys solve that problem?
I deal with that by only using distilled water and biocide :p. I change out my loop annually.

Drain port goes on the bottom. Have gravity work for you. :)
I'm thinking about getting this for the drain

EK-Quantum Torque Drain Valve - Black Nickel
Product EAN: 3831109829691

I'd need a softtube as well right, so the water doesnt flow into my case?
It's gonna look foolish, but im trying as well to figure out how I want to tackle the CPU and GPU tubing

The tubes for the radiators are pretty much obvious

I'm kinda confused by the wording provided by EK in the manual for the distro plate.

Is the inlet and outlet referred to the water itself or is that referring to the watercooling part itself

- - - Auto-Merged Double Post - - -

yea.. for some reason i cant attach files, it keeps loading forever
i'll try to attach my glorious paint pictures tomorrow (for my timezone) :)
Sorry, I intended to reply in the early hours but day has been hectic

and yea the issue might have been the data limit...

so back to my issue
idk how im gonna tackle the tubing for gpu and cpu block

purple color is for a female+male fitting combo
the dark blue for just a male part
light blue are the tubes
red drawing are the cpu/gpu blocks


  • horizontal.jpg
    2.5 MB · Views: 78