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EKWB cooling question (extra parts)

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EarthDog

Gulper Nozzle Co-Owner
Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Location
Buckeyes!
What is the rig used for? Have you bought last your parts? You can easily shave hundreds off your build if you wanted. No need for that high end board...no need for 1200w psu either 850W is plenty, including overclocking. 2 titans too? Is this a production machine? If you want the parts you want it, but, you can save hundreds if you want. What is the goal withere his build?
 
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animalmom

Registered
Joined
Aug 1, 2011
Oh thanks for that. Just wanted to make a machine ive always dreamed of

I already have all the parts but the water blocks

I know its over the top but well .... I just wanted to

Will be for gaming and vr only. I got tired of waiting for the 1080ti

I wanted to make.a water cooled super system. Thats really all. I used to make a pc every year but havent for like 3 or 4 so not concerned about the money
 

GTXJackBauer

Water Cooling Senior Member, #TEAMH20HNO
Joined
May 22, 2011
Location
USA
Have a look at the intro to watercooling stickies as well as this video. Take your time as this is a really fun hobby and should display great results once all is said and done.

 
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animalmom

Registered
Joined
Aug 1, 2011
Ok I am about to build all this.

Question, my Corsair has 140mm Fans on the front panel (2)

I have 2 "varder 120mm fans" that came with my pile of stuff from EKWB.

So do you leave the 140s, then put the radiator behind them, then add two more 120s on the ther side of radiator?

So its like push fan - radiator - pull fan?

Same as on the top ? Push radiator pull (3 fans?)
 

Witchdoctor

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2014
No, they will not fit onto the rads. You won't be using those 140's
if you want push pull you will need additional 120mm fans for the rads selected.
Also if going push pull make sure you have the clearance for the additional 25mm
You will like the Varder fans, they are quoite and can move some air.
personally I like 10/16 mm tubing. I would reconsider the tubing and the dye
use the clear EKoolant and better tubing, I recommenced the rubber flat black rubber tubing
No platisizer problems with rubber, bends really nice & I like the way it looks.
They also have clear and colored tubing that is better than that bottom shelf EK stuff
Keep in mind if you change the size tubing you also need to make this changes to the fittings

Rubber
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-15-9-9-5mm

Blue
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/tube-primochill-primoflextm-advanced-lrttm-9-5-15-9-mm-brilliant-uv-blue

Looks like it will be a lot of fun , post some pics along the way
 
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animalmom

Registered
Joined
Aug 1, 2011
Ok so take out the corsair 140s and put the varder 120s on the rad?. Front or back?. Sorry if this is in the instructions in the box. Maybe i should read those first
 

Witchdoctor

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2014
I personally prefer to pull air through rads as to push through them as it just seems easier to clean for me, however it makes no difference in performance

As far as push pull I have never really seen a large enough gain to justify the additional space and the cost of the fans.
 
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animalmom

Registered
Joined
Aug 1, 2011
Oh sweet thanks. So i just put the 120 varders on the front of the radiator and then remove the 140s and can use them for other things. Ill let you know how it goes
 

GTXJackBauer

Water Cooling Senior Member, #TEAMH20HNO
Joined
May 22, 2011
Location
USA
Push is usually the way to go with most rad fans unless it's the specific few that perform better under pull. I can't recall exactly but you'll have to read up on Martinsliquidlab site. One of the two best sites to learn about custom watercooling.

Go with the PrimoChill tubing w/ the choice of your color and clear premixed fluids.

As for the rad fan, you can only match the same fan with the same radiator fan layout unless you use some type of fan adapter.
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
Pull is considered better for efficiency and pure 'the way things work with science'. The large dead spot from the motor hub in the middle of the fan doesn't push as much air through the rad because the airflow from the fans is directly forced through the fins. In pull the dead spot is smaller since the rad is able to 'dissipate some of the airflow more towards the middle and some airflow is by turbulence etc forced through the middle area, where the dead spot is. Pull is also better for cleaning rads. Dust collects on the pull side of the rad, easy to blow off. If you push, it's stuck between the rad and fan, much harder to clean out.

And I remember Martins tests. Pull was a bit better. Some fans could be different to change the logic, but then it's fuzzy math.

Looking at my old rig with two rads, dust collected on the filters I had on the pull side of the rad. They were easily removable and any other dust was easily blown out with a mini compressor. No dust collected on the side of the rad between the fans and fins.

Link to my old rig, scroll down to the rad setup. It was sooo easy to clean. Me still love long time tech stations.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/...-and-update-Finally!?highlight=annual rebuild
 
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animalmom

Registered
Joined
Aug 1, 2011
Fantastic reply and thanks. My gpus areived today so this weekend ill test out of the case and do the cooling next weekend