• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

eVGA 1080Ti Kingpin rehabilitation

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

Voodoo Rufus

Powder Junkie Moderator
Sep 20, 2001
Bakersfield, CA
I picked up this card for a very good price as it was the card alone with no box or accessories and ended up being a miner. This card is particularly desirable not only for being Kingpin card for a beast-level VRM, but it has triple bioses (one for LN2), and dual 8-pin PCIE rear connectors for a 380W power limit.

Giving the card a thorough inspection, it was missing many of the factory screws, the thermal pads were pretty nasty, and the heatsink was half clogged with dirt, dust and hair. So, a complete disassembly was required. Interestingly, the heatsink bolts to a secondary set of aluminum plates that cover the VRM and memory. So you have a thermal pad - plate - pad - heatsink series of interfaces. The VRM section also has it's own set of heatpipes to distribute heat around the primary heatsink. I purchased a variety pack of new thermal pads off of Amazon. I removed the fans from the heatsink and cleaned them individually. Then, I had to brush off the heatsink, then I scrubbed it wish a soft bristle brush with warm soapy water, and then gave it a several hour soak in vinegar to try to perk up the copper plating. After that, a careful application of fresh thermal pads and paste for the GPU itself, and then reassemble it as best I could. Since I was missing some screws, I tried to scrounge in my stash for anything that would work. The end result is a card that still misses a few, but none that would loosen the contact of any of the thermal cooling components. Being an ICX card, it has something like 10 thermal sensors on it. So, an hour test of the Unigine Heaven benchmark yielded the hottest ram chip running at 72C, and all of the other components (GPU and VRM) leveling out at a nice 65C at a 300W load. Clocks leveled out at around 1975MHz, so I hope to get the factory guaranteed minimum OC of 2025MHz.

It's currently installed in my Win7 4790K rig and seems to be a great match for it. Although, with the wife wanting to play Hogwarts Legacy, I might have to let her have it in place of her 1660 Super GDDR6. Oh the sacrifices....

IMG_9911.jpg IMG_9912.JPEG IMG_9913.JPEG



IMG_0099.JPEG IMG_0100.JPEG IMG_0161.jpeg IMG_0162.jpeg


Last edited:
Seriously. I used to buy eVGA's Hydrocopper cards because I'd tend to integrate my GPUs into my cooling loop. They also took up less space. I do not like the current trend of 400W+ cards taking up to 4 slots and a huge amount of space in the case. I think after my 3080Ti (3 slots with the air cooler, 2 with my Heatkiller block) I'll be looking at smaller cards, even if midrange, to take up less space. My 2080Ti FE is also a 2 slot card and is perfectly sized.

I hope GPU makers throttle back this insanity in the future.
C'mon man, only 5 years!

If you REALLY want to reminisice, remember that the AGP output power was 25W max before needing external power. I even passively cooled a Ti4600 by slapping a huge aluminum Pentium Pro heatsink on it.
I remember when I killed my 9500 pro (18 w) and managed to replace it with the 9800, upgrade the cooler to a 2 slot design and flash the XT bios for 60W. I was amazed at having to plug in a Molex to power the thing. I also thought my 450w PSU was more than anyone would ever actually need.
The heatpipe VRM cooling is unique -- was that ever replicated for any other videocards?

I'd hope you could get more than 2025Mhz. out of a kingpin 1080ti -- I used to get 2164Mhz. out of my MSI Duke 1080ti (but only after extensive cooling mods, incl. super powerful server fans zip-tied to the two slot heatsink, liquid metal TIM and thermal pads between most of the PCB and the backplate.
I glossed over that earlier. Very odd. Like it moves heat from the VRM to a slightly larger area, but then transferring to the HSF is just via pad to fins (I can't imagine that is effective). Maybe it was intended to work with LN2, which would also explain why it was in two pieces.
It's possible it was for cooling during LN2 operations. I haven't looked around but maybe there was another aftermarket part for VRM cooling while using an LN2 pot.

VRMs can take a lot of abuse in terms of temperature. The way the fins are flattened over the VRM thermal pads I think it transfers heat just fine. The ICX temp sensors seem to validate that during normal stress testing as well. It's a perfectly good OEM solution.