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First build -- advice please! critics are welcome!

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ShadowPho

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2005
Location
I am in your stack, SUBbing your registers!
Building watecooling! I read all stickies and internet guides. Please feel free to offer ANY type of advice or thoughts you have about the build.


So, backstory. Recently my girlfriend broke up with me so I decided to go ahead and splurge some on the PC. :D First step was to get a m.2 512GB SSD + pcie bracket. Second step was realizing I couldn't boot from it on my 2600k build. Third step was getting a skylake i7 with a z170 gigabyte gaming 7 motherboard and 64GB of RAM.

The next step is obviously watercooling! The stock intel cooler can't do well :). I am looking for something as quiet as possible. It will cool the 980 ti (or 1080 AIB ti when it comes out!), and the skylake chip. Price is not as much of an issue as being quiet is. I think my limits are around $1.2k or so..... but hopefully less then that. I am also thinking of keeping the rad outside, that way it will keep the heat out of the case (so RAM\VRM\sound card will be cooler). I have a 750D obsidian case.

Also if you guys think of any other ways to spice up the build with LEDs\pretty colors , let me know!


Tubing:

  • 3/8 tubing with compression fittings.
  • Primochill Advanced LRT ($2/ft) (easiest to use, safest)

Pump
I don't see any good choices... I like powerfull pumps, but I also like quiet with PWM :(

Radiator
Not sure about this one. I would need 18 fans, and at $30/fan that's $540 in fans!!!!
However, it looks giant and can stand outside the case which is nice.

Reservoir
Nothing Special

CPU Block
EK-Supremacy EVO Elite $125

GPU Block
Whatever EWK comes out with when I get a 1080 :)

ETC
Pressure sensor, flow meter, front display (? something to get more PWM slots)
 

Dlaw

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2012
Location
New York, USA
The 750D is a pretty decent case for water, you don't have to go with that expensive external solution. I have 120.7 worth of radiator in mine, but you can get away with 120.5 (minus the bottom rad, basically), and you should have no cooling issues since it's just a single card solution you're planning. the 360 and 240 XT45s I have in my build probably cost about $150 or so together. That would also save you some money in fans. My system stays pretty cool all the time (all components are currently sitting @ or below 40C, ambient temp is around 85F, load temps never get higher than 85C).

I have that same pump except mine's not PWM. As far as I know, D5s are all pretty much the same, but anyone correct me here if I'm wrong. Mine's running at the highest setting to get through everything in the build, so it's easily the loudest component.

Everything else looks fine to me.
 

GTXJackBauer

Water Cooling Senior Member, #TEAMH20HNO
Joined
May 22, 2011
Location
USA
Good to see someone looking into the Aquaero 6. One thing I will add is that it has its own learning curve so you'll have to be patient on that front and will have to do more research on that as well. Also, depending on which parts you go with, some won't be compatible with the AQ 6.

My next question is, have you read up on the AQ 6? Any 3rd party D5 PWM pumps other then the AC D5 PWM, won't work with the AQ 6 unless you do a "DIVA Mod" to it. If you're not looking to mod anything, have a look at the AC D5 USB/Aquabus interface version. You can chain any aquabus device (Pumps, Flow meter, Farbwerk, Poweradjusts, etc) just like the USB header on the MB. This will allow your 4 fan headers free for just the use of fans.

The koolance flow meter is not compatible with the AQ 6 and I wouldn't go with the pressure sensor. I will recommend the AC Flow Sensor "High Flow" because its basically plug and play. It will need a 4-pin fan cable for power and to connect via Aquabus High to the AQ 6. The other AC flow sensors and that pressure sensors need to be calibrated and can be a pain in the butt. Not really needed and have read quite a few who have had their flow sensors (other version) of breaking down too soon.

Before we continue, I'd take the recommendations of the above member and go with a internal rad system. You will be able to configure enough rads for a CPU + GPU only loop unless you're looking to add another GPU for SLI but even then, if you were to fit say 120.5-120.6 internally, that would be more then enough for a quiet build. If you're still stuck on having some things external as it can become an eyesore, by all means have at it. That rad is extremely overkill for a setup like yours but is a nice piece nonetheless.

Having the rad external vs. internal, will only give you a few degrees knocked off. Its really all about good case and rad airflow, good ambient temps and enough heat surface along with water flow. As long you're good on those front, having it external won't matter.

For a CPU block, have a look at Swiftech and XSPC to save some funds on that front. They have some nice LED versions.

For GPU, try EK's block or any other manufacturer like Aquacomputer, Swiftech, XSPC, etc.

Pumps, again you'll want something from AC (Aquacomputer) because of the AQ 6.

Senors, I'd go with a few air sensors, water temp sensors from AC or Phobya is fine and that flow sensors I linked.

Radiators, I'd look at BlackIce, Alphacool, Swiftech, XSPC, EK, etc. You'll want a rad that's anywhere from 8-12 or 16 FPI is fine.

Fans, best rad fans out there are the Gentle typhoons. Fortunately they're still around and rebranded. There are some PWM versions if you'd like but the are also voltage controlled versions as well like the original. The great thing about the AQ 6 is it is compatible with either PWM or Voltage controlled. You can only pick one per channel but can mix match each one differently. Yeah, its amazing.

You want LEDs, grab a AC Farbwerk and a few strips. Make your own connection as its really easy to do.

As for the place to purchase from, Performance-PCS and Modmymods (Run by the folks that left FCPU) are the places to steer to. We've pretty much moved on from FrozenCPU because of issues in the past.

Anyways, hope this will help you steer in the right direction. I will say from experience, the AQ 6 is amazing and fun to have. The things you can do is endless. I surely enjoy mine. Again, there's much more to be learned. Take your time and have a look at other builds with your case and see what they've done to them to give you some nice ideas. :salute:
 
Last edited:
OP
ShadowPho

ShadowPho

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2005
Location
I am in your stack, SUBbing your registers!
Thank you for replying! :)

The 750D is a pretty decent case for water, you don't have to go with that expensive external solution. I have 120.7 worth of radiator in mine, but you can get away with 120.5 (minus the bottom rad, basically), and you should have no cooling issues since it's just a single card solution you're planning. the 360 and 240 XT45s I have in my build probably cost about $150 or so together. That would also save you some money in fans. My system stays pretty cool all the time (all components are currently sitting @ or below 40C, ambient temp is around 85F, load temps never get higher than 85C).

I have that same pump except mine's not PWM. As far as I know, D5s are all pretty much the same, but anyone correct me here if I'm wrong. Mine's running at the highest setting to get through everything in the build, so it's easily the loudest component.

Everything else looks fine to me.

85C load seems way too high for me.... I was aiming for 50C load...

Is there a way to get quitier pumps? I would like to not run it at full power if I can avoid it.

Good to see someone looking into the Aquaero 6. One thing I will add is that it has its own learning curve so you'll have to be patient on that front and will have to do more research on that as well. Also, depending on which parts you go with, some won't be compatible with the AQ 6.

My next question is, have you read up on the AQ 6? Any 3rd party D5 PWM pumps other then the AC D5 PWM, won't work with the AQ 6 unless you do a "DIVA Mod" to it. If you're not looking to mod anything, have a look at the AC D5 USB/Aquabus interface version. You can chain any aquabus device (Pumps, Flow meter, Farbwerk, Poweradjusts, etc) just like the USB header on the MB. This will allow your 4 fan headers free for just the use of fans.

The koolance flow meter is not compatible with the AQ 6 and I wouldn't go with the pressure sensor. I will recommend the AC Flow Sensor "High Flow" because its basically plug and play. It will need a 4-pin fan cable for power and to connect via Aquabus High to the AQ 6. The other AC flow sensors and that pressure sensors need to be calibrated and can be a pain in the butt. Not really needed and have read quite a few who have had their flow sensors (other version) of breaking down too soon.

Before we continue, I'd take the recommendations of the above member and go with a internal rad system. You will be able to configure enough rads for a CPU + GPU only loop unless you're looking to add another GPU for SLI but even then, if you were to fit say 120.5-120.6 internally, that would be more then enough for a quiet build. If you're still stuck on having some things external as it can become an eyesore, by all means have at it. That rad is extremely overkill for a setup like yours but is a nice piece nonetheless.

Having the rad external vs. internal, will only give you a few degrees knocked off. Its really all about good case and rad airflow, good ambient temps and enough heat surface along with water flow. As long you're good on those front, having it external won't matter.

For a CPU block, have a look at Swiftech and XSPC to save some funds on that front. They have some nice LED versions.

For GPU, try EK's block or any other manufacturer like Aquacomputer, Swiftech, XSPC, etc.

Pumps, again you'll want something from AC (Aquacomputer) because of the AQ 6.

Senors, I'd go with a few air sensors, water temp sensors from AC or Phobya is fine and that flow sensors I linked.

Radiators, I'd look at BlackIce, Alphacool, Swiftech, XSPC, EK, etc. You'll want a rad that's anywhere from 8-12 or 16 FPI is fine.

Fans, best rad fans out there are the Gentle typhoons. Fortunately they're still around and rebranded. There are some PWM versions if you'd like but the are also voltage controlled versions as well like the original. The great thing about the AQ 6 is it is compatible with either PWM or Voltage controlled. You can only pick one per channel but can mix match each one differently. Yeah, its amazing.

You want LEDs, grab a AC Farbwerk and a few strips. Make your own connection as its really easy to do.

As for the place to purchase from, Performance-PCS and Modmymods (Run by the folks that left FCPU) are the places to steer to. We've pretty much moved on from FrozenCPU because of issues in the past.

Anyways, hope this will help you steer in the right direction. I will say from experience, the AQ 6 is amazing and fun to have. The things you can do is endless. I surely enjoy mine. Again, there's much more to be learned. Take your time and have a look at other builds with your case and see what they've done to them to give you some nice ideas. :salute:

I didn't realize that using Aquero 6 doesn't work with a lot of things :(. That's sad.. I was hoping to plug in everything into it. And I am ok with doing mods for it, but diva mod looks wastefull (a zener mod for a power supply? the quiescent supply is terrible..)

Thank you for AC Farbwerk! That looks awesome and is what I want!
 

GTXJackBauer

Water Cooling Senior Member, #TEAMH20HNO
Joined
May 22, 2011
Location
USA
Its compatible with most things with the exception of 3rd party flow meters and PWM pumps.




 

Dlaw

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2012
Location
New York, USA
That was 85c at full load. That was IXTU running with Heaven, not normal gaming load. I haven't seen it hit above 60 running Crysis3 maxed at 4k.
 
OP
ShadowPho

ShadowPho

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2005
Location
I am in your stack, SUBbing your registers!
That was 85c at full load. That was IXTU running with Heaven, not normal gaming load. I haven't seen it hit above 60 running Crysis3 maxed at 4k.

Yeah, but I'd like to not hit 85C even when running full test load :)... That just seems too high.


How is this build for maximum quiet + maximum cooling? This should keep all the heat out of my case, and should make everything super cool and pwm everything to lowest.

watercooling.png
 

Dlaw

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2012
Location
New York, USA
These chips are designed to start throttling at 100C. 90C is where we generally tell people the threshold is, for some buffer. 85C is a perfectly acceptable temp.

If you're completely stuck on using the external rad, that will work fine. However, you are spending way more money than you need to.
 

GTXJackBauer

Water Cooling Senior Member, #TEAMH20HNO
Joined
May 22, 2011
Location
USA
I'd go with the 120mm and grab a bunch of GT fans for the rad, if budget permits.

Also, its looking like new hardware will be coming out from Watercool, your rad's company with ways to install a Res/D5 pump combo on the external rad, making it unnecessary for a internal installation. There's a post about this here.

Heatkiller_Tube_preview_012.jpg
 
OP
ShadowPho

ShadowPho

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2005
Location
I am in your stack, SUBbing your registers!
That looks interesting, but I'd prefer the pump in case to lessen the noise :)

What do you guys think of this? This includes everything everything everything...

Watercool MO-RA3 420 PRO
performance pc $223 $223 http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercool-mo-ra3-420-pro-white.html
bracket pp $40 2 $80 http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-mo-ra3-420-bracket-for-180-230mm-fans.html

EK Supremacy Evo
frozen cpu $75 plexi
performance pc $100 full copper
ekwn $94 full copper
frozen cpu $85 red + black $85
Monoblock $120 https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-ga-z170x-monoblock-nickel




Quick Disconnect
QDC 3/8 x 1/2 FeMale $13 2 26 http://koolance.com/qd3-fs10x13-bk-...ng-female-for-10mm-x-13mm-3-8in-x-1-2in-black
QDC 3/8 x 1/2 Male $14 2 28 http://koolance.com/qd3-ms10x13-bk-...ling-male-for-10mm-x-13mm-3-8in-x-1-2in-black


gpu block
980 wb nickel $150 150 https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc980-gtx-ti-strix-nickel
980 bp nickel $50 50 https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc980-gtx-ti-strix-backplate-nickel-5247


Fans
BitFenix Spectre Pro $21 8 170 http://www.amazon.com/BitFenix-Spectre-230mm-BFF-SPRO-23030KK-RP-Black/dp/B008UZ0QVA
fan extensions 5.25 2 11 http://www.amazon.com/extension-cab...1465276115&ref_=sr_1_17&s=electronics&sr=1-17
fan splitter 6.5 2 13 http://www.amazon.com/Computer-Spli..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=1YVF7C9M5P05SRXBVDT6
fan extension(molex) 7.5 2 15 http://www.amazon.com/Phobya-4Pin-M...d=1465276115&ref_=sr_1_8&s=electronics&sr=1-8

pump unit
d5 pwm g2 $89 89 https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-pwm-g2-motor-12v-dc-pwm-pump-motor
top + res d5 $74 74 https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-revo-d5-acetal


fittings
tubing 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD 10ft $27 27 http://www.primochill.com/product/p...-id-x-12in-od-retail-10ft-pack-elegant-white/
set of 4 silver, g1/4, 3/8 x 1/2 $42 2 $84 http://www.amazon.com/Bitspower-Com...=1465268527&ref_=sr_1_4&sr=8-4&srs=8301305011
black, g1/4, 3/8 x1/2 $15 2 30 http://www.amazon.com/Bitspower-Com...1/2" OD&qid=1465278441&ref_=sr_1_4&sr=8-4
kill coil $5 $5 http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Coils-...atercooling&qid=1465268768&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

TOTAL: 1160
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
The tubing you chose is very thin walled, just 1/16" thick. It kinks pretty easy. Many have used it but just so you know. Lots of us use 1/2" ID 3/4" OD. You could get 3/8" ID with 5/8" OD?
 
OP
ShadowPho

ShadowPho

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2005
Location
I am in your stack, SUBbing your registers!
The tubing you chose is very thin walled, just 1/16" thick. It kinks pretty easy. Many have used it but just so you know. Lots of us use 1/2" ID 3/4" OD. You could get 3/8" ID with 5/8" OD?


Ah, thanks for heads up. I was not sure if i want 5/8" OD or 1/2" OD. I thought that it'd be easier with 1/2" OD because it's thinner and would let me bend more. But I'll switch over to 5/8" if that's more standard\beginners friendly.

(I would need to change tubing, 4 pack of fittings and 1 packs of fittings. QDC as well)
 

GTXJackBauer

Water Cooling Senior Member, #TEAMH20HNO
Joined
May 22, 2011
Location
USA
I would have stuck with a MORA 120.9 with 120mm premium rad fans because the bigger the fans, the less pressure or it is harder to create the pressure the 120mm's create, plus the 120mm fans have been out longer and most of the R&D and tests have shown. Up to you though.
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
Ah, thanks for heads up. I was not sure if i want 5/8" OD or 1/2" OD. I thought that it'd be easier with 1/2" OD because it's thinner and would let me bend more. But I'll switch over to 5/8" if that's more standard\beginners friendly.

(I would need to change tubing, 4 pack of fittings and 1 packs of fittings. QDC as well)

Good move, yea you gotta change stuff, no big deal. Seen folks do fine with the thin walled. Just have to be careful and many end up using the wonderful bendy 90 degree rotaries, but they ain't cheap. I used 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD tubing.

Few views of some 90 deg rotaries in one of my old build logs. They are amazing!

Go down a bit for pics.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/...-and-update-Finally!?highlight=annual rebuild
 
OP
ShadowPho

ShadowPho

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2005
Location
I am in your stack, SUBbing your registers!
I would have stuck with a MORA 120.9 with 120mm premium rad fans because the bigger the fans, the less pressure or it is harder to create the pressure the 120mm's create, plus the 120mm fans have been out longer and most of the R&D and tests have shown. Up to you though.

I thought 230 mm create less noise\rpm for same airflow.. I thought in general larger fans are more efficient? :( I was looking at 120/140 mm fans, but it gets so expensive (18 fans), and I thought 8 fans can do same job at lower rpm. Although you are right that more R&D on 120mm fans.

Good move, yea you gotta change stuff, no big deal. Seen folks do fine with the thin walled. Just have to be careful and many end up using the wonderful bendy 90 degree rotaries, but they ain't cheap. I used 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD tubing.

Few views of some 90 deg rotaries in one of my old build logs. They are amazing!

Go down a bit for pics.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/...-and-update-Finally!?highlight=annual rebuild


I want to avoid getting more compression fittings, they are expensive :)

I adjusted my tubes and fittings. price is same. Looks like everything should match.

I am actually moving in 10 days, so I will start ordering in about 5 days to new place. Also, sold my 980 ti and will get a 1080 with a different waterblock :)


Watercool MO-RA3 420 PRO
performance pc $223 $223 http://www.performance-pcs.com/watercool-mo-ra3-420-pro-white.html
bracket pp $40 2 $80 http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-mo-ra3-420-bracket-for-180-230mm-fans.html

EK Supremacy Evo
frozen cpu $75 plexi
performance pc $100 full copper
ekwn $94 full copper
frozen cpu $85 red + black $85
Monoblock $120 https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-ga-z170x-monoblock-nickel
Quick Disconnect
QDC 3/8 x 1/2 FeMale $13 2 26 http://koolance.com/qd3-fs10x13-bk-...ng-female-for-10mm-x-13mm-3-8in-x-1-2in-black
QDC 3/8 x 1/2 Male $14 2 28 http://koolance.com/qd3-ms10x13-bk-...ling-male-for-10mm-x-13mm-3-8in-x-1-2in-black


gpu block
1080 waterblock $150 150 tbd
1080 backplate $50 50 tbd


Fans
BitFenix Spectre Pro $21 8 170 http://www.amazon.com/BitFenix-Spectre-230mm-BFF-SPRO-23030KK-RP-Black/dp/B008UZ0QVA
fan extensions 5.25 2 11 http://www.amazon.com/extension-cab...1465276115&ref_=sr_1_17&s=electronics&sr=1-17
fan splitter 6.5 2 13 http://www.amazon.com/Computer-Spli..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=1YVF7C9M5P05SRXBVDT6
fan extension(molex) 7.5 2 15 http://www.amazon.com/Phobya-4Pin-M...d=1465276115&ref_=sr_1_8&s=electronics&sr=1-8

pump unit
d5 pwm g2 $89 89 https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-pwm-g2-motor-12v-dc-pwm-pump-motor
top + res d5 $74 74 https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-100-revo-d5-acetal


fittings
tubing 3/8 ID x 5/8 OD 10ft $27 27 http://www.amazon.com/PrimoFlex-Adv...qid=1465455233&ref_=sr_1_fkmr0_1&sr=8-1-fkmr0
set of 4 BLACK, g1/4, 3/8 x 5/8 $45 2 $90 http://www.amazon.com/Bitspower-Com...3/8" ID&qid=1465455270&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2
silver, g1/4, 3/8 x 5/8 $13 2 26 http://www.amazon.com/Bitspower-Com...3/8" ID&qid=1465455270&ref_=sr_1_9&sr=8-9
kill coil $5 $5 http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Coils-...atercooling&qid=1465268768&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

TOTAL: 1162
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
Well you have done your homework, thanks for that. Good luck on the evil stuff coming from the walls. Seriously, if it's a work rig no one see's, then cheap granny nylons might do the trick.
 

GTXJackBauer

Water Cooling Senior Member, #TEAMH20HNO
Joined
May 22, 2011
Location
USA
I thought 230 mm create less noise\rpm for same airflow.. I thought in general larger fans are more efficient? :( I was looking at 120/140 mm fans, but it gets so expensive (18 fans), and I thought 8 fans can do same job at lower rpm. Although you are right that more R&D on 120mm fans.

Anything bigger then say a 120mm/140mm, is no good. There is a difference when it comes to case fans for airflow in a case and fans that create pressure to push through radiators. You want to focus on the term "Static Pressure" when looking for rad fans.

Also, sold my 980 ti and will get a 1080 with a different waterblock :)

That should be nice. Less power used = better delta temps.
 
OP
ShadowPho

ShadowPho

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2005
Location
I am in your stack, SUBbing your registers!
Well you have done your homework, thanks for that. Good luck on the evil stuff coming from the walls. Seriously, if it's a work rig no one see's, then cheap granny nylons might do the trick.

Haha, thank you!

I kinda gave up on it looking totally fantastic after choosing to go external fan. That guy is hard to hide :)

Anything bigger then say a 120mm/140mm, is no good. There is a difference when it comes to case fans for airflow in a case and fans that create pressure to push through radiators. You want to focus on the term "Static Pressure" when looking for rad fans.



That should be nice. Less power used = better delta temps.

Thank you for information! That's really good to know.

I'm looking at this post: http://www.overclock.net/t/1215168/200mm-or-more-fan-with-high-static-pressure


Supposedly this fan is 135 cfm, 25.5 dbA: https://www.frozencpu.com/products/...ystem_Fan_D22SL-12H.html?tl=g36c15s1204#blank

How do I find out the static pressure of it?