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First Build - need feedback

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Eternal_winds

Registered
Joined
Nov 22, 2016
Hello,

This is my first build and my first post, So Hi everyone and please keep in mind that I'm only 2 weeks old in the WC business :)

I've wanted to do that for quite some times now and the release of the 1080GTX seems a good moment to actually deep in WC and try to upgrade my current system (a noisy fan cooled one) to a silent watercooled tower.
I've been browsing all the web about watercooling for the last 2 weeks and I've compiled a list of items that I have and that I will need to buy to make it happens.
So any feedback on this build will be much appreciated.

My aim is to keep my mother board, CPU,PSU and RAM, and change everything else.
I'm looking to have something really quiet, with, in the center of it, a GTX 1080 (gygabite).

Target fan RPM (radiator) is 1300RPM, with enough power to go higher if the heat rises.
Target liquid flow is 1-1.3GPM.
Estimated TDP (with a confortable error margin) to dissipate is 277W.
Estimated PSI resistance of the loop is 3.5PSI.
Recommended PSU for the whole system is 460W (my current PSU should be fine apparently).
Target DeltaT is +10° Celcius.
From this site (http://forums.evga.com/Review-of-the-EKXTOP-Revo-D5-EK-D5-PWM-G2-pump-m2497845.aspx)
the pump should be able to perform well above 1.3GPM with 3.5PSI.

So here it is :

General components :

CPU : Intel I7 3770 (already owned)
RAM : 2*8Gb Corsair (already owned)
PSU : Corsair 600 CX 80+Gold (already owned)
Motherboard : MSI Z77MA-G45 (already owned)

CASE : PHANTEKS Enthoo Pro Boitier Blanc https://www.grosbill.com/4-phanteks_enthoo_pro_boitier_blanc_window-672977-informatique-boitier
Fan Control : Phobya - Fan Controller TPC http://www.aquatuning.de/luftkuehlu...ontroller-30watt-each-channel-single-bay-5-25

Watercooling :

Radiator : Radiateur EK-CoolStream XE 360 https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-xe-360-triple
Pump
+ Reservoir : EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump
GPU WB : EK VGA EK-FC1080 GTX G1 - Nickel / Plexi https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-g1-nickel
CPU WB : EK-Supremacy EVO BLUE Edition https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-blue-edition
Fans : EK-Vardar F3-120 (1850rpm) x 6 https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vardar-f3-120-1850rpm

Liquid : EK-Ekoolant EVO UV BLUE x 2 https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ekoolant-evo-uv-blue-premix-1l
OR
EK-Ekoolant Pastel BLUE (concentrate 250mL) x 2 https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-ekoolant-pastel-blue-concentrate-250ml
(With distilled water)


Tubes : Mayhem Soft Tubing Ultra-Transparent Riot Ultra Clear Tubing - 10/16
Fittings : EK-ACF Compression Fitting 10/16mm - Elox Black
Extenders : EK-AF Extender 6mm M-M G1/4 - Nickel x 2 (to link T-valve , T-splitter and pump)
Valve : EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 - Nickel https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-ball-valve-10mm-g1-4-nickel
Splitter : EK-AF Y-Splitter Rotary 2F-1M G1/4 - Nickel https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-y-splitter-rotary-2f-1m-g1-4-nickel

Jumper : EK-ATX Bridging Plug (24 pin) https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-atx-bridging-plug-24-pin


I'm now lurking the merchant sites to get the best deals.
But before spending almost 1700$, I'd like to have an external though/advice about my system.
I may have overlooked something stupidly evident. If so please tell me :)
There may be some parts that can be improved or replaced with better ones. I'll be glad to here about it too.

A friend of mine is going for the same build, so I prefer to be sure !

Thank for any help.

PS : As you can see I've been looking almost only at EK parts. I've looked to Alphacool or Koolance but until now I found there price/product details to be better.
I can change this. I'm not EK exclusive :)
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
Pastel blue. It has particulates that will clog your system. 3 months (more or less) you will wonder where the pretty colors have gone? It's now in your rad (hours to remove) and in your CPU and GPU blocks.

Read up here, that subject goes back years... Years...
 

LawShadow

Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2009
Hello and welcome to Overclock:)

As for the radiator i would suggest getting your self a quad (4 x 120) a tripple rad is duable but need higher rpm fans and since you want silence go bigger so you can run silent running fans.

Personally and this is just opinion in regards of EKWB ive seen to many nickel blocks suffering from oxidation...however their full copper blocks are great. Make sure if you buy a EKWB radiator that you properly clean it even when they say on the label "no flushing is needed" well ive read the horror stories...

The EKWB D5 top plus res is great im using it my self thats a quality product however i did not used the anti cyclone foam which according to some users may disintegrate over time and ends up in the blocks as black sand...

As for tubing go with Primochill Advanced LTR it is proven it self to be pretty much no build up of plasticizer and i used it for 3.5 years without a trace of plasticizer.

As Conumdrum says dont use pastel which may ruin your blocks but instead use a reputable pre mix coolant a clear one and then use colored tubing of your choice.

Ive been using Koolance Liq 702 coolant for years now and all my blocks are spotless clean even after 3.5 years of continues use (did change the coolant after 2 years) on my secondary wc system. But maybe i was using all Koolance blocks and fittings.

As for the cpu block you posted i would suggest getting a Full metal block and not a plexi glass or acrylic top which MAY crack when over tightening your fittings or simply due to pressure.
If you go with EKWB get one like this:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-full-nickel

or

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-supremacy-evo-acetal-nickel

The acetal version is much stronger then the acrylic see through material

As for the Acrylic block for your GPU that might be ok since it does uses acetal threads. And you can if needed check your gpu block for any signs that prompt you to clean the system with the see through acrylic.
 
Last edited:
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Eternal_winds

Registered
Joined
Nov 22, 2016
Thanks a lot for your insight.
I will take this into account make some changes.
Sorry if the liquid stuff has already been covered previously.

About the pump, would you say it is quiet enough?
And this anti cyclone foam, is it something already built in the pump + res or is it something that can be left away when mounting everything together?

Thanks again for the feedback.
 

GTXJackBauer

Water Cooling Senior Member, #TEAMH20HNO
Joined
May 22, 2011
Location
USA
D5 G2 Pump Warning.JPG

With that said, I would look for EK's G2 D5 PWM Pump or Aquacomputer's PWM D5 pump since both are within intel's spec otherwise you might run the risk of not having any control which will resort to 60% of max power by default.

As for the fluids, I'd stick with their clear premixed coolant and pick PrimoChill Advanced LRT with your color of choice for the tubing as already stated.

When it comes to blocks, I also personally feel going with either acetal or metal is the best way.

Overall, everything looks good. You might run into points of the build where you might want a certain angle fitting to give the right bend you'd like, etc. That's normal so don't count all your eggs in the basket yet while you build this loop. Things can change.

Btw, :welcome: to OCFs and looking forward to seeing pics of the loop once its all said and done. :salute:
 
OP
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Eternal_winds

Registered
Joined
Nov 22, 2016
@GTXJackBauer : Thanks ! I'll defintely send pics of this.
For the pump, constructor says it's 100% by default on the EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM (I'm going with the smaller version, there is a bargain on it right now). So I should be good.
For this king of stuff I'm counting on the 4pins connector on my Motherboard, to regulate the thing, and if not, I consider it will go 100%.
Plus I prefer to have an all-in-one kit for this part. just a personnal preference.

@Conumdrum / LawShadow : Switch to Koolance Liq 702 x 2. If it goes well for year, I'm ok with it. Color can come from the tube or LED.
Switch to CPU EK-Supremacy EVO - Acetal+Nickel.
Switch tube to TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 15,9 / 9,5mm.
Added a 120mm rad. I'd like to keep the 360 for the top grid, and add a 120 at the back, or the front, don't know yet. But will defintely go for a 480mm total.

I'll comeback for more once I bought all the things :)

All my thanks for support and double check !
 

GTXJackBauer

Water Cooling Senior Member, #TEAMH20HNO
Joined
May 22, 2011
Location
USA
I'd probably add a 120.2 in the front if that can fit just to give you that extra heat surface. 120.1 in the rear I feel is a bad idea since it will impede the exhaust air going out the back. Things can get very tight by the MB's back panel, CPU and top GPU.
 
OP
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Eternal_winds

Registered
Joined
Nov 22, 2016
What about a 120.1 in the front, over or under a fan-in, and a fan-out at the back.
I feel I will have a massive negative pressure if I put another 120.2 in the front.
 

LawShadow

Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2009
Thanks a lot for your insight.
I will take this into account make some changes.
Sorry if the liquid stuff has already been covered previously.

About the pump, would you say it is quiet enough?
And this anti cyclone foam, is it something already built in the pump + res or is it something that can be left away when mounting everything together?

Thanks again for the feedback.

That D5 pump plus top is excellent as others said pick the V2 pump, like i said i use it my self albeit the older version its dead silent even at 100% currently its running at setting 3 and is WITHOUT the cyclone black foam. Its an option that you can use i would advise not to use it. And yes without the foam = super silent.

The pump top combo you want to get according to user feedback is very silent or even dead silent so no worries here. Mine is vertical mount outside the case if your planning to mount it vertical either on the case wall or on a vertical mounted radiator you then need a "EK-UNI Pump Bracket (120mm FAN) Vertical" this should help greatly by nullifying sound vibrations. You could use one single 480 radiator and use this external like behind the case this should bring in colder air to the radiator but this is just personal opinion.

The Koolance Liq 702 is great love it BUT like i said i was using their blocks and fittings it should work with non Koolance products since it is strong Propylene glycol based coolant that is also found in other brands of coolant.
However EKWB clear coolant should work with your setup as well and change the coolant every year vs 2.5 years for the Koolance Liq 702. About the effectiveness of EKWB coolant i have no idea never used it. Whatever your pick is go with CLEAR coolant.
 

GTXJackBauer

Water Cooling Senior Member, #TEAMH20HNO
Joined
May 22, 2011
Location
USA
What about a 120.1 in the front, over or under a fan-in, and a fan-out at the back.
I feel I will have a massive negative pressure if I put another 120.2 in the front.

You'll be fine. In most cases, its positive pressure. For example, Front/Bottom is intake while top/rear are exhaust.

Have you taken the time and looked at other builds with same case, regardless of color? It will help you better visualize what you can and can't do. A heads up with the triple radiator up top will leave you most likely with only 1 single bay up front.

As one wise Watercooling veteran has always said, take your time, its a hobbie. No need to rush this through. ;)
 
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Eternal_winds

Registered
Joined
Nov 22, 2016
its dead silent even at 100%
It will be more than enough for me. If I understand correctly how things works, I can always buy the V2 pump and mount the top + res onto it. I'll try the silent one then. And switch if the flow rate is insuficient.

the triple radiator up top will leave you most likely with only 1 single bay up front.
The top of the tower won't let me put a 480mm rad. all builds go 120.3 or 140.3 on top.
I guess i can put my last rad on the rear. there should be enough space. Well, I'll see about that when time comes.
I can always put it on the front bottom.

No need to rush this through
I kinda want it to happen fast :p plus it's black friday, so bargain everywhere !!
but yeah, I understand what you say :)
 

GTXJackBauer

Water Cooling Senior Member, #TEAMH20HNO
Joined
May 22, 2011
Location
USA
My point with the 120.1 radiator, if you were to go that route, why not just add 120.2 total. That will allow you to even lower your fan speeds and improve your delta-temps. Again, that is all up to you.
 
OP
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Eternal_winds

Registered
Joined
Nov 22, 2016
Yes, more rad = less temp / fan speed needed.

I won't be able to fit another 120.2 at the rear. And if I put it in the bottom, I wont have enough space left for hdd Bay + pump combo + fans in.

So I'll stick with a 120.4 total for now.
 
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Eternal_winds

Registered
Joined
Nov 22, 2016
Hi again.
Everything was delivered home exept the main rad. So I started fitting the small rad and the pump, to see if it will fit with the 1080GTX. Apparently It will, if my thumb-measured schemes are good :)

20161130_221608 - Copie.jpg

The GPU should go just a few centimeters up the res top.

But here's my question, and I couldn't quite find my answered on the internet :
Are there rules about res placement ? I'm planing to put in on the bottom of my loop. But will it be ok when Ill fill the system with liquid ?
That is, won't the liquid I pump, step by step, by using a jump started PSU on my pump, come down and fill my res as soon as I stop the pump ?
If my main radiator is on top, I expect all the liquid that is stored in it to fall down to the res.
Won't it be a problem when I fill in the loop, or will it not happen at all for reasons ?

If my question isn't clear enought tell me, I'll draw it :)
 

LawShadow

Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2009
I might see an issue with the pump placement...

I presume you plan on using 90 degree fittings on the pump correct? So as to not interfere with you PSU...

I would not use 90 degree fittings on the pump specially the intake. Is there a way to move the pump more to the right?
Do a google search type your name of the case + water cooling to have some ideas....

As for filling the loop it should be no problem as long as you never keep the pump running without liquid. So when the reservoir is almost without liquid turn of psu. Fill up again repeat process. Till you dont have to fill again. (make sure your res is almost full)
But lets see what others have to say about your question regarding filling the loop and liquid going back again. To me it should be good but just in case wait till more people chime. Since i never uses a top rad in my setups.
 

GTXJackBauer

Water Cooling Senior Member, #TEAMH20HNO
Joined
May 22, 2011
Location
USA
You should be ok. You don't need to fill it up completely full. When you're filling it up, make sure you have some towels on standby and of course your PC/fans off, not even plugged to a power source. Fill up your reservoir half way, maybe a little bit past half way. Try filling it at first with the pump off. If the levels get too low when its turned on, fill it up when its on but make sure you're careful about turning it off as the levels can rise so you'll want the fill port completely shut sealed just in case. I've had a spill out but luckily I had my shammies near me to the rescue. No big deal, just make sure you know when to fill it.
 
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Eternal_winds

Registered
Joined
Nov 22, 2016
Ok, I'll not worry about filling then. Thanks.

I just recieved my last rad (120.3) and started placing them (I keep the motherboard and GPU for last moment because I'm using it on a daily basis atm).
Here's what I come up to :
20161205_194858.jpg

The motherboard should barely fit with the rad on top. But that should be ok.
However, I was realy surprised by the rigity of the primoflex 10/16 tube. I though it would be way more flexible.
I don't have a choice but to get some angled fittings.
As for that, As you can see in the picture, I was planing of using a Y split on the pump out or pump in to link the purge tube.

I'm still hesistant on one point : should I put the in/out holes of the 120.3 on the left or on the right (like in the picture). In any case I'll need angled fittings now.
 

LawShadow

Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2009
Looking good the pump combo has been moved to the right well done.

That angled fitting is ok it's not a full 90 degree i see you used it on the outlet thats better then on the inlet. There has been research done on the impact of angled fittings on both the outlet and inlet of the pump and placing the angled fitting on the inlet causes the most issue.

You could test them out both inlet/outlet of your 120.3 rad from left to right and see whats best. If all fails regardless you used either left or right cause it still interferes with perhaps the mobo or other components. Then you could either place the 120.3 rad externally either on the backside or on top of your case with stand offs. But this is last resort.

If you use angled fittings i presume EKWB try using if you can a smooth angled ones not ones that make a SHARP 90 degree.
 
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Eternal_winds

Registered
Joined
Nov 22, 2016
I was planing on using 90° fittings on the inlet/outlet of the 120.3, hidden, just above the CD-tray. I still hope I'll be able to fit it in :)
Anywhere else will be 45° when needed. And yes, I won't need to use angled one on the pump inlet; the tube should be loose enough to make the angle with putting to much torsion on the pump fitting.
I'll be mounting the thing on Friday when the supplement of fitting are delivered.

Will keep you up to date :)
 

LawShadow

Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2009
Don't forget:

Flush clean your radiators before use its very VITAL you do that and make sure its cleaned properly there are tutorials how to clean them. I would poor in hot/warm distilled (not boiling) into the rad fully let it sit for 5 min then poor out approx 30 to 40% of the water then do the "rad dance" (shake like mad) for a couple of minutes. Poor the water in a white bucket or clear bowl check for debris and other contaminates. Repeat the process over and over again till its clean. Might as well flush the tubing as well ie dust inside tubing.