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First loop help

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Ben S

Registered
Joined
Mar 4, 2016
I've built but not with water loop cooling. Been selecting hw. mATX case. For cpu only. HW in sig. Opinions and suggestions welcome.
And I have a few questions.

HEATKILLER® IV PRO (INTEL processor) - COPPER AN
Black Ice 240GTS (30mm max)
Watercool D5 PWM - Is this the same as any other D5 PWM?
Alphacool single 5.25 Res
EK fittings
PrimoFlex Advanced LRT - 3/8 x 1/2

If I wanted to use a smaller DDC pump, which one would it be? Haven't seen a top or cover for newer MCP50X.
What else is needed? Any distilled water + biocide?

If flow order is correct, thinking of setting it up like this.
View attachment 178115
 

Vellinious

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Location
Central US
A D5 is a D5...unless you get the 24v version.

For this loop, the D5 is the better option. The DDC is better in high restriction loops. This isn't it.

I'm not sure what you're outlining there for flow, but it looks like you're going out of the rad, to the CPU block, and THEN to the pump? I wouldn't do that. 1 - it'll be a pita to bleed, and 2 - it'll be a pita to prime.

I also don't see a drain port...do yourself a favor, and plan a drain port.....or be that guy, sitting in the bathtub with his pc case, turning it upside down, trying not to get water on anything important for a drain / refill.

Yes, distilled + biocide is good. Nothing better than distilled for cooling performance.
 
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Ben S

Registered
Joined
Mar 4, 2016
I knew it wasn't high restriction it's just that it would be a lot easier with the pump in the bay. Doesn't look like there's going to be much room as is.
It's going to have a drain port. My egamakashun isn't advanced enough atm to be at drain port location concern. But then again, maybe I like bathtubs.
How does this look. res>pump>rad>block>res
View attachment 178118
 

GTXJackBauer

Water Cooling Senior Member, #TEAMH20HNO
Joined
May 22, 2011
Location
USA
All D5 are pretty much the same except a few that are "suped up" if you will. The DDC is great for small builds because of its smaller form factor. I'd advise on either the MCP35x or 50x. I believe the 50x is a bit bulkier.
 

Vellinious

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2013
Location
Central US
That's better. The only thing for flow routing I'd be concerned about, is keeping the res right before the pump, and above it as much as possible...even the highest point in the case is great, makes for easier bleeding, and ensures the pump is primed well on the fill.

As for the rest of the routing, the loop order doesn't really matter. Res-pump-block-rad would be fine too. Once the temps in the loop reach their equilibrium point after a few minutes of operation, it won't matter where the rad is.
 
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Ben S

Registered
Joined
Mar 4, 2016
I also don't see a drain port
I've purchased the loop parts below. The res combo and rad will fit nicely.
Bath tub preventative measures in place: A ball valve/barb will port out the bottom behind the front panel and will be the lowest part of the loop.
PT Nuke for distilled is what I got for that.

Looking in the rad is see some discoloration but nothing that looks of corrosion.
I've read the sticky on this, but when I clean these new parts would a cleaner of some kind be beneficial?
Ex: Swiftech site says to use diluted Pine Sol on their products.

:)
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
Lots of HOT water and soap, do the rad dance many times till it looks clean in the glass bowl you drain it in again and agin. No bits. Bits clog up the micro channels in the blocks. Dance hard, dance big to clean the rad. Letting it soak for an hour isn't a bad idea. It's a hobby, take your time. Your first WC loop from building the PC and testing all the bit o air cooling FIRST, to being fully watercooled is maybe a week. Enjoy the time getting to touch the parts. Take a walk, don't spend more than 4 hours building at a time. Heck, one to two full days just building the PC on a peice of cardboard, loading software etc. Then playing with the WC parts, testing how fitings and hoses work. 3rd-4th day removing air cooling parts and installing CPU/GPU blocks, next day hoses. Next day installing all WC parts and checking, checking, checking.

Next day adding water. And bumping the pump. Then a full day of no power to the rig and watchng for leaks, power to just the pump. All looks good, power it up.

There is your first week!

Run water through the parts, and drain. No need to rinse with distilled.

Folks keep buying the old PT- Nuke. It's the internets fault PHN Nuke is better as is Deadwater etc. No worry, PT Nuke will still be fine.

A new rad is not corrosion, it's the natural process from solder and brass etc. Part of the building process.
 

Dlaw

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2012
Location
New York, USA
Lots of HOT water and soap, do the rad dance many times till it looks clean in the glass bowl you drain it in again and agin. No bits. Bits clog up the micro channels in the blocks. Dance hard, dance big to clean the rad. Letting it soak for an hour isn't a bad idea. It's a hobby, take your time. Your first WC loop from building the PC and testing all the bit o air cooling FIRST, to being fully watercooled is maybe a week. Enjoy the time getting to touch the parts. Take a walk, don't spend more than 4 hours building at a time. Heck, one to two full days just building the PC on a peice of cardboard, loading software etc. Then playing with the WC parts, testing how fitings and hoses work. 3rd-4th day removing air cooling parts and installing CPU/GPU blocks, next day hoses. Next day installing all WC parts and checking, checking, checking.

Next day adding water. And bumping the pump. Then a full day of no power to the rig and watchng for leaks, power to just the pump. All looks good, power it up.

There is your first week!

Run water through the parts, and drain. No need to rinse with distilled.

Folks keep buying the old PT- Nuke. It's the internets fault PHN Nuke is better as is Deadwater etc. No worry, PT Nuke will still be fine.

A new rad is not corrosion, it's the natural process from solder and brass etc. Part of the building process.

This is extremely good advice. Definitely don't underestimate the amount of time and energy these builds take. I couldn't believe how hard fittings were to tighten on tubing before I did it. I went to work the next day after I started my water build with both hands torn up just from the fittings. Just take your time, and take breaks. I didn't, and that's why my hands got beat up, and also why I had to take it back down because I had cross-threaded the compression sleeve on one of my fittings.
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
Thanks Dlaw, that's why I consider water cooling a hobby, not an end game. It's not always about results. It's the journey, especially the first time. Lots of odd things to learn.
 

GTXJackBauer

Water Cooling Senior Member, #TEAMH20HNO
Joined
May 22, 2011
Location
USA
Word of advice to those using compression fittings, gloves go along way. I learned my lesson after two hard headed years. :D

Also, most if not all fittings to tubing don't close all the way or you'll risk slicing into the tubing.
 
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Ben S

Registered
Joined
Mar 4, 2016
Appreciate the thoughts and tips guys.

I've been taking my time so far, mainly because of work. Tomorrow I'll have some time to clean and start install of the loop. PC is up and running. I had been thinking about what it was going to take to get it built in the case and you've helped put it in perspective. Being a smaller case, and the res going right about here,
bare case - Copy.png

I'm sure I'll be dry fitting at least a couple times to see which way I want the res ports to be positioned. More than likely to the back, since the bottom grommet looks like the best place to route tube to the back where the rad, and most likely valve, will be. Altho I would like the valve to be visible in the front,, I bought extra fittings so I'll see what I can do with the space while keeping the block tubing as horizontal as possible.
 
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Ben S

Registered
Joined
Mar 4, 2016
Ready to leak test but d5 PWM won't power on from spare psu molex.
PS works. And I've checked the connection. I get no sound, vibration, or water movement.
 

Dlaw

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2012
Location
New York, USA
Is the PWM cable disconnected from the board? If not, try disconnecting it.

Edit: This is assuming that the pump is powered by a SATA cable or Molex.
 
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Ben S

Registered
Joined
Mar 4, 2016
Is the PWM cable disconnected from the board? If not, try disconnecting it.

Edit: This is assuming that the pump is powered by a SATA cable or Molex.

No power to board. Only pump with it's 2 pin molex connected to ps. . But tried it with PWM plugged and unplugged.
Nothing~
 
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Ben S

Registered
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Mar 4, 2016
Not too happy with the chrome looking block. I'll run it till I have time to change it.
Don't like the vibration pads since they aren't as red as Noctua's pics. Easy enough to change to black.
Minor cable adjustments still.
Other than that I'm pretty happy with the results

X3.jpg X2.jpg X4.jpg X5.jpg
 

GTXJackBauer

Water Cooling Senior Member, #TEAMH20HNO
Joined
May 22, 2011
Location
USA
Very nice! :thup:

I see what you're saying about the two colors. Fans vs. the rest of the case. Was the fan shroud painted at the bottom and what tubing is that because it matches really well with the bottom.