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First Time Looper - setup q's

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netjack

New Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2007
Hi Guys,

First time to water cooling and been searching quite a bit and this is what I've come down to and looking for some feedback.

Current setup:
Case - Lian Li pc-011 dynamic
CPU - 9700K
GPU - EVGA 2080TI FTW3 Hybrid Ultra Gaming

Rig pic:
https://ibb.co/kHtKchP

Both the CPU and GPU are currently overclocked pretty aggressively (5GHZ for CPU and 2.1MHZ GPU).

Water cooling Setup:
- CPU Block - EK-Velocity RGB - Nickel + Plexi
- GPU Block - EK-Vector FTW3 RTX 2080 Ti RGB - Plexi + Nickel
- Pump/Reservoir - EK-XRES 100 Revo D5 PWM
- Radiator - HWLabs 360 GTS
- Fittings - EK-ACF x 10 (enough?)
- Tubing - LRT Primochill
- Fans - ML120 Pros
- The EK configurator throws in an EK-ATX Bridging Plug. What purpose does that really serve?


Questions:
- Will I benefit from having 2 radiators vs 1 for both the CPU & GPU?
- Am I over doing it with 360 radiators vs just going 240?
- I'm going to skip the backplate as I hear it's mostly for aesthetics. Thoughts?
- What's the best tool to cut the plastic tubing?
 

EarthDog

Gulper Nozzle Co-Owner
Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Location
Buckeyes!
The bridging plug is there so you can run your loop and check for leaks without powering on the PC. ;)

1. No, but you want but you want a bit more radiator than that for best results. Your GPU is 225W stock and the CPU is 65W stock (but skyrockets when overclocked. I would either go 2x 2x120mm rads or a single 4x120mm rad.
2. I see here you mention radiatorS (plural) are you running two? Please clarify
3. I'd run a backplate if only to protect the back. Many of these have thermal pads and do help with heat removal.
4. A knife? box cutter? Something sharp? It just needs to be cut. :)

Maybe give the sticky threads a read! :)

https://www.overclockers.com/forums...Water-Cooling-Your-PC-***-READ-THIS-FIRST-***
 
OP
N

netjack

New Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2007
The bridging plug is there so you can run your loop and check for leaks without powering on the PC. ;)

1. No, but you want but you want a bit more radiator than that for best results. Your GPU is 225W stock and the CPU is 65W stock (but skyrockets when overclocked. I would either go 2x 2x120mm rads or a single 4x120mm rad.
2. I see here you mention radiatorS (plural) are you running two? Please clarify
3. I'd run a backplate if only to protect the back. Many of these have thermal pads and do help with heat removal.
4. A knife? box cutter? Something sharp? It just needs to be cut. :)

Maybe give the sticky threads a read! :)

https://www.overclockers.com/forums...Water-Cooling-Your-PC-***-READ-THIS-FIRST-***

Thanks for the feedback. Yes, I had already checked out that thread.
 

bignazpwns

Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2018
Personally i would go for the Acetal top for the blocks. I never had a Plexi top not get micro cracks. Regardless of brand they have all got micro cracks. Total of 4 EK blocks all of them got micro cracks in less then 5 months of installing them. But i also had XSPC, Thermaltake all crack. But i never had any issues with the Acetal tops. Why i switched over to Corsair the transparent nylon they use wont crack. That said not a single one of the blocks leaked. I ran the EK for over a year before building a new loop after i seen the micro cracks. So its not the end of the world. But just dont want you to freak out when you see it. But any cracking in a loop is a bad thing. But i have yet to see one of the typical thermal caused micro cracks. Any cracks i seen leak were from user error.

1. Go 2 240's or a 480.
2. CPU + GPU i would typically do a min of 2 240's
3. These cards run hot. Ever touch the back plate? Go with a back plate. Might wanna aim a fan at it. They get extremely hot.
3. Anything that cuts. You want a nice clean cut that's straight. you want it as flat as you can get it to the compression fitting.


Coolent.

I know people love Mayhems and Corsair picked that for there line. But i always had good luck with EK's cryofuel. Im running the sold Cloud White premix and have had no problems. And the white looks great with RGB.
 

Zerileous

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2002
The 011 dynamic is nice to work in. For your setup I would use two 360 rads, you can fit a thick one in the top and a slim on the side intake, then still have room for a vertical GPU. This might be necessary as iirc the FTW is a tall card and there is a tight clearance for GPU height in this case.
Check here for GPU clearance http://www.lian-li.com/air-gpu-guidance-list/. This video has great discussion on radiator clearance, especially for the side rad
.

For fittings you'll need to plan where you want each component and anticipate any tight bends. You'll probably find yourself wanting a few 90 and 45 degree fittings, even with flexible tubing. Also get a couple more of each than you anticipate needing. I know fittings are expensive, but having $50 in extra fittings is worth it for the headaches you'll save when everything doesn't line up exactly the way you planned. Also you can get G1/4 90 and 45 degree adapters without the fitting, then use them for future builds, if you want to be more flexible.

I also find it beneficial to have a drain, even with flexible tubing. Sure you can just remove the CPU block or res, but I think it's easier to drain without having to un mount anything.