• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

First-timer's story and Troubleshooting

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

ShortCircuit2

Registered
Joined
Jun 19, 2004
Location
Dallas
A few months ago I did a decent amount of research but still felt it would be safe to go with a kit, so I bought the Maze4 Pro? Kit from DD's site. I set it up leak free but the small cylindrical reservoir made it impossible to leak bubbles out, so I bought (figured out there were other sites with cheaper prices than DD) a bay reservoir which leaked but I plugged it up with a little hotglue. On the same order I bought a Extreme Ice Dual 120mm radiator (after which i learned about heatercores...) because I wasn't completely happy with my temps. It dropped them a few degrees but not nearly what I would like and have seen from other's results. It is time for me to order again because I somehow tightened the tubing onto my L30 (not sure if I or II) too tight and broke off both inflow and outflow barbs, and I have decided to get the L35. I am running a 2600-M at 1.825V at around 2.45Ghz (have been in foreign country for many weeks, can't remember and can't start computer no pump) with a Maze4 cpu and chipset block as well and my temps were 40-41C idle and 46-47C load. I am very much not happy with this and I was wondering if a TDX block would solve it. I am putting my old Extreme Ice Single 120mm in also so heat dissipation is not a problem I don't think.

So far all you people that don't like to read much, will moving from a Maze4 cpu block to a TDX block bring temperatures down significantly?
 
Difference between the Maze4 and the TDX, if your processor is running at 70 watts should be about 3 degrees celcius based on the c/w of the two blocks. However, the Maze4 is not as restrictive, so the difference is probably less than 3 at 70w.
 
1) you can prob fix the L30...
2) A D-tek WW would prob be a better choice if performance is the issue here.
3) what thermal compound are you using?
4) 2x Fedco 2-342 heater cores would help temps and wouldn't be restrictive like your current rads are.
5)Where are you reading your temps from?
6)Please list your system specs.
 
watercomp3.JPG

pumpbarbs.JPG

(pretend there's a pump at the end of those tubings)

Hydor L30 --> Black Ice Extreme Dual 120mm --> Maze4 CPU --> Maze4 Chipset --> Bay Reservoir --> L30

1. I didn't think you could bond plastic where the most pressure is (coming right out of pump) and there aren't any shops in Greater Dallas that sell or service the Hydor line
2. I have only followed the DD line of blocks, please explain more about this one
3. Arctic Silver 5
4. I'll look into this
5. Nvidia System Utility
6. Athlon XP-M 2600+ 2.46Ghz(12x205) @ 1.825V
Asus A7N8X-E Deluxe Geforce3 Ti200
1024MB Mushkin PC3500 Lvl 1
Antec 1040-B with Antec 400W ps
 
also, can anyone point me to the cheapest site for an L35? or if you know of a site that sells replacement parts for the L30, that would be even better!

and I have heard of shrouds alot, but I do not know exactly what they are, a little help please?
 
ShortCircuit2 said:
watercomp3.JPG

pumpbarbs.JPG

(pretend there's a pump at the end of those tubings)

Hydor L30 --> Black Ice Extreme Dual 120mm --> Maze4 CPU --> Maze4 Chipset --> Bay Reservoir --> L30

1. I didn't think you could bond plastic where the most pressure is (coming right out of pump) and there aren't any shops in Greater Dallas that sell or service the Hydor line
2. I have only followed the DD line of blocks, please explain more about this one
3. Arctic Silver 5
4. I'll look into this
5. Nvidia System Utility
6. Athlon XP-M 2600+ 2.46Ghz(12x205) @ 1.825V
Asus A7N8X-E Deluxe Geforce3 Ti200
1024MB Mushkin PC3500 Lvl 1
Antec 1040-B with Antec 400W ps
the barbs come off the L30... I took the intake barb off my L30... Just look at the hardware store for some new barbs.
 

Attachments

  • IM003664.JPG
    IM003664.JPG
    87.9 KB · Views: 216
ok, i bought brass barb replacements so they won't break again, and I was just checking to make sure that brass is not corrosive?
 
ShortCircuit2 said:
ok, i bought brass barb replacements so they won't break again, and I was just checking to make sure that brass is not corrosive?
AFAIK, brass isn't corrosive. What type of thread is on the barbs you bought? (The one I used is made from modified pieces found laying around our house. There's like 5 adaptors in mine)
 
fafnir said:
Cyrix_2k, how'd you get the tube to stretch like **THAT** ??!?!?!
The tube goes inside the white piece (it's siliconed in)... plus it's 5/8"OD 1/2"ID. Also, the tubing is kinked/twisted in that pic. I pulled my stuff out of the case so I could get a good photo. Also, the tubes are dark because my impellor has been busy destroying itself over the past 2 months... All that dark stuff is magnet fillings *yikes*. On a good note, my pump quieted down two days ago for some reason...

Actually, the tube goes inside the white piece, which pinches it on top of another plastic piece that has an ID of a 1/2", so it doesn't leak.
 
tricknasty said:
cyrix_2k from what i heard after those pumps break in they are quiet, but a little louder when you first get em.
If you're talking about the L30, they start out quiet and stay that way, or atleast mine did... Until the impellor shaft broke. Rather than replacing the impellor asm. for $15, I bought a MCP600 that I have been most pleased with. The MCP600 does get quieter with use... I can hear mine above the rest of my system, but I run my fans at inaudible levels and my 40gb Maxtor HD has the "Fluid Bearings" which makes it almost silent. I'm going to make a foam box around the MCP600 in order to quiet it down, but this won't be necessary to most people as the system noise will be louder than the pump.

BTW, my temps went down a solid 7c after switching to the MCP600... This might not be fair to the L30 as I'm comparing a healthy MCP600 to a VERY sick (now dead) L30 I.
 
tricknasty said:
*caution thread hijack* -_- a DD pump is more powerful than that mcp6000 right, just a little louder? :)
Yep! But I hear the new "muffled" D4's are quieter AND more powerful then the MCP600...
 
Back