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First Water Build, Comments?

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Corellon

Registered
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Looking at putting together my first water build, something I've concidered for years now but never got to trying. My planned rig is so far:

Case: HAF 932
Power: Seasonic X-750
CPU: Core i7 920 DO
Motherboard: EVGA SLI (E760) Classified (Overkill but got it at a steal)
Ram: Corsiar DDR3 1600 CL9 (Likely will upgrade later, but again got at a steal)
Video: ATI Radeon 4870 x2 (Future upgrade later too, old card from my old build)

Going to start with just cooling the CPU with water, don't think the NB/Chipset will need it, but may concider it if it does (Not looking at insane OC's, 4GHz max if that) more doing water just for the sake of it.

What I have planned so far is:

Block: Apogee XT (If I can find one instock) or Heatkiller 3.0 (If I can't)
Rad: Swiftech MCR320 or Swiftech MCR220
Res: Acrylic Dual 5.25” Reservoir for Laing DDC - BayRes One
Pump: Undecided - MCP655/D5 or MCP355/D3.2(? 18W version)

Tubing.... I was thinking of going 1/2 Barbs, what's a good ID? is 1/2 worth it over 3/8th? since alot of blocks use those? Tube stiffining... how long, and is it a problem? Replacement needed when they stiffen? Anything in that system look like mixed metals? Or is it ok to run just distilled water and a biocide?

Looking at having the RES/PUMP in the upper drivebays, with a unknown placement of the rads.... I'd like to keep the 230cm fans in place if I can though.

Heard the Apogee XT has issues with the SLI Classified, and needs a different backplate, anyone else know more on it? Is it worth the extra cost and expense vs the heatkiller? Heatkiller should mount without issue or does anyone know?

Thanks for the advice
 

atomic ferret

Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2005
First of all, I'm really jealous of your PSU, just thought I'd let you know 🆙

Anyway, I would go with the MCR320 for an i7. Always better to over-rad than under-rad. Also, the bay res is for the MCP355, not the MCP655, so if you want the D5, you need another res solution.
 

boucher91

Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2009
Location
Guthrie
+1 bigger, (imo) rad or even bigger if possible for future upgrades...
the rest is personal choice whichever works best for you..
 
OP
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Corellon

Registered
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Thanks for all the replies,

Going to run 1/2 ID 3/4 ID with Bitspower Barbs, Likely need clamps right? Worm clamps from a hardware store would work right? no need to order them?

Tubing I was looking at the primochill Primoflex LRT UV Red. No need for a UV additive if the tubes have it right? Or would a additive amplify it?

I want the 320 but having trouble finding a way of mounting it without removing the 23cm fan... Don't really want to have to put in 12cm fans. One Idea I had but notsure how it would work out is putting the 320 on the top of the case overhanging the back a little bit. Not the best cooling wise I suppose any other suggestions?

Future upgrade would be a 4x120 rad setup for the side window, likely a seperate loop for GPU(s)

Finding the res seems to be a issue for me up in canada here, is the 355 strong enough? or should I just get the 655 and find another res to use anyways? I'm open to suggestions on a good Pump/Res combo.

Power supply was pretty pricey but still managed to find a decent price on it ($175 CND)
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
Looking at putting together my first water build, something I've concidered for years now but never got to trying. My planned rig is so far:

Case: HAF 932
Power: Seasonic X-750
CPU: Core i7 920 DO
Motherboard: EVGA SLI (E760) Classified (Overkill but got it at a steal)
You will need to slightly cut a bit of the XT backplate. Here is a link, I asked at XS forums, where gods hang out.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=243878

Ram: Corsiar DDR3 1600 CL9 (Likely will upgrade later, but again got at a steal)
Video: ATI Radeon 4870 x2 (Future upgrade later too, old card from my old build)

Going to start with just cooling the CPU with water, don't think the NB/Chipset will need it, but may concider it if it does (Not looking at insane OC's, 4GHz max if that) more doing water just for the sake of it.

What I have planned so far is:

Block: Apogee XT (If I can find one instock) or Heatkiller 3.0 (If I can't)
Rad: Swiftech MCR320 or Swiftech MCR220
The 220 is barely enough, if you overclock you'll want the 320 rad. If you add the 4870x2, you'll barely have enough with the 320 rad with no CPU overclock.
Res: Acrylic Dual 5.25” Reservoir for Laing DDC - BayRes One
Pump: Undecided - MCP655/D5 or MCP355/D3.2(? 18W version)
DDC3.2 with the XSPC reastop is a winner, I have two.

Tubing.... I was thinking of going 1/2 Barbs, what's a good ID? is 1/2 worth it over 3/8th? since alot of blocks use those? Tube stiffining... how long, and is it a problem? Replacement needed when they stiffen? Anything in that system look like mixed metals? Or is it ok to run just distilled water and a biocide?
3/8" for a CPU only loop is fine. We usually recommend 7/16"ID as the smallest. Cheap tubing can bend less and kink eisier. thin walled tubing kinks badly. The current fav tubing (for many reasons) is Primochill. That would be with 1/2" barbs

Looking at having the RES/PUMP in the upper drivebays, with a unknown placement of the rads.... I'd like to keep the 230cm fans in place if I can though.

Heard the Apogee XT has issues with the SLI Classified, and needs a different backplate, anyone else know more on it? Is it worth the extra cost and expense vs the heatkiller? Heatkiller should mount without issue or does anyone know?

Thanks for the advice

Some stores, not sure if you know of all of them. Petras is currently moving so they are out of the picture still I think.

http://www.dangerden.com
http://www.petrastechshop.com/
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
http://www.jab-tech.com/
http://www.performance-pcs.com
http://www.frozencpu.com/

:welcome:
 
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Grosjambon

Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2009
Location
Montreal - Canada Or @Cegep Maisoneuve
Where do u live in canada ? if near vancouver u should buy from Directcanada.com A lot of choice and LOW PRICE
For the res/Pump combo here is a link http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=23460AC8457&vpn=3830046994189&manufacture=EK Water Blocks
Tubing I was looking at the primochill Primoflex LRT UV Red. No need for a UV additive if the tubes have it right? Or would a additive amplify it?

+1 I use them and they dont kink and look very red. Under Uv its more Orange than red but all red uv tubing is doing that 10feet is More than enough :0 Distilled water + PTH nuke

For metal clamps try to buy these one 3/4 OD
P1000314.jpg
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
PLEASE don't even think additives to the liquid. You don't have a clue on how many loops we have seen clogged and messed up because some used dye or some other funny liquid. Distilled water and a biocide is the MOST trouble free setup. You don't want to spend a weekend cleaning do you because you needed pretty water?

It was about 1.5 years ago that the big WC suppliers saw we wanted color and no hassle. Thank goodness they came through.
Primochill and Feser, but Primochill won out big time.

Colored hose, simple liquid. UV tubing, UV lights. Some resses and even GPU covers have LED holes for color. You need more find a disco to visit.:p

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=228959&highlight=primochill
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=234100&highlight=primochill
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=232216&highlight=primochill
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=222147&highlight=primochill
 
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Corellon

Registered
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Conumdrum: Thanks for the links, May go UV or Just a Red Cathode see how it looks once installed. I figured most additives would be bad, which is why I went the colored tube route, Any other alternatives the PH Nuke? Importing from the states seems to be cost prohibative.

If I can't find a clamp at the hardware store (or work, they use worm clamps all the time) I'll put them into the same order as the res soon as I can find it.

Order placed so far is:

Primochill LRT UV Red 10ft
Apogee XT CPU block
4x 1/2 bitspower barbed fittings (CPU block supposedly comes with it's own 1/2 barbs)
(I don't need more right? 2 for the res/pump combo, 2 for the rad)?
Swiftech 320 QP Rad (Anyone think my idea of mounting on top of the case would be ok? if not ideal?)
Swiftech 355 Pump
OCZ Freeze Extreme Thermal Compound 3 Gram Tube (Better the Artic silver 5? Same?)

$220 CND so far, not sure how that compares.... Guess the $300 I saved on the board and ram is going into the watercooling LOL

For leakproofing.... is it possible to seal the ends of the hose under the clamps with a 100% silicon sealent? Give it a little extra hold? Not that I want it to come to that point, but rather have a "safety" somehow.
 

Grosjambon

Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2009
Location
Montreal - Canada Or @Cegep Maisoneuve
Dont do as me I fryed my Motherboard (the tubing was not leaking but the insde of the cpu block was not the barbs...) Put all watercoolign component in ur case cut the tubing to the right size remove all watercooling component with the tubing put everything in a bathroom run for a days and check for leaks ;)
Metal clamps will be more than enough for no leaks.
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
No need for such goop. You do the clamps right (and it ain't rocket science) you'll be fine. I use a nut driver and tighten them down nice and snug, a screwdriver slips. I have used a small ratchet wrench (1/4" socket) in the tight spots.

I have been watercooling for about two years and done many redos of my loop. The great hose and worm clamps have never leaked. They have leaked a bit at the threads where the barb is screweed into the fitting, but a very anal super watchfull eye during leak testing always caught it wayyy before any issues.

Biocide? You got a jeweler in the area? You need .999 pure silver wire or strands. It's a fine biocide. Or some stuff from a fish store.

WOOT!!! Found it! Fun read, the whole thread is great.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=235483&highlight=biocide
 
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Corellon

Registered
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Thanks for that great thread Conumdrum, Lots of local fish stores around, if it's the same I'll get that then, use the biocide and silver? or just one? I have cordial silver around the house here, part of those natural antibiotic sprays, would that work?

Hopefully I can find the res somewhere at a decent price, dont' want to hold up the system till it arrives. Ordering from the US seems to be out though, after duties and shipping it adds up
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
You think a spray made for something else besides water is the right thing to use? Use what is at a fish store, hopefully it's right. Otherwise, silver wire is cheap.

I drink cordials, no idea what a silver cordial spray is.......

Just one is all you need.
 
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Corellon

Registered
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
The spray is basicly just Cordial silver (with water) in a spray bottle... Ingredients are demineralized water and silver nothing else.

I'll just go with the copper biocide from the fish store if that's all that is needed. I don't trust my own judgement enough to find .999 silver, any don't know many reputable jewlers (I'm sure there are, just never deal with that stuff)
 
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Corellon

Registered
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Damage?

Well I recieved the rad today, but seems it was slightly damaged during shipping, a small section of the fins are slightly bent at the top.

Still usable or should I RMA it? End up taking a loss if I RMA it since I just get a refund, but have to pay shipping both ways, plus again on another unit.
 

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Spawn-Inc

Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2007
see if you can't straighten them up a bit, but it's not any kind of major damage.

it doesn't look like the water channels are damaged so your fine.
 
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Corellon

Registered
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Thanks for the reply unfortunately they can't be straightened, the top part is actually torn off sort of ribbon like. Not sure if it's just a paint layer or something else, but it's not the same material as the copper fin material below the area that is torn
 
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Corellon

Registered
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Just a quick question, got all the parts in (other then now having to go out and get more worm clamps because I ordered 1/2 OD clamps instead of 1/2 ID clamps)

How tight should the waterblock go on the CPU? may have to change out the screws on the Apogee XT since it seems to be a bit to tight with my replacement back, but wondering how tight is a usual tightness?

Thanks
 

Spawn-Inc

Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2007
with the swiftech XT you screw them down all the way until it stops. it should have stop at the right pressure.
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
It seems very tight, but it's the very fine screw threads. I put a teeny bit of grease on each screw, maybe it helped. It feels very tight, but one full 360 degree turn each corner in an x pattern till it's all the way tight is fine. I used a screwdriver, so I could keep tabs of the tightening. If you look closely, you can see the screw is flat against the backplate part that sticks through the mobo.

Your rad is fine. You might of lost .0003% cooling.