First water cooled build! Please advise

[Locla]

Wow, I can see how this stuff could get expensive, all new :/

I've found a few sources of (new) variously sized Primochill tubing now - definitely going to buy tubing according to fitting size though, as all those little bits are so expensive even second hand. Having said that I've seen one or two deals on Bitspower fittings; thanks for the tip Blaylock.

Aquatuning is where I sourced my radiator for a great price. After you recommended their coolant I had a look and to be honest for the price it may be easier to just buy it, GTXJackBauer, thanks.

Atminside I've checked out the NF-F12 iPPC-2000 and they are certainly more desirable for my application. However, they're also quite a bit less common and so harder to source second hand. £20 each excluding postage was the best I could find, whereas I've found a few all accessory and boxed standard NF-12s for £12 each (postage included). Writing that down it actually seems like a small difference in price relative to blocks or pumps. I think it likely that one day I'll refine this system a great deal, but for the time being I would prefer to keep the total cost of this first foray into water cooling as low as possible. No doubt I will revisit this thread when expanding my loop, so it's likely that I'll take another look at these fans in the future.

The Swiftech MCP50X doesn't appear to be readily available in the UK That 8-way PWM splitter looks good though, as I only have a 6-way currently which won't be enough to support future expansions.

With regards to blocks, I noticed that the deal I previously found for an EK Evo Supremacy doesn't include the mounting bracket etc, so it's not actually great value (at £34) considering that I'd have to find and buy the mount. For £40 I could buy a brand new EK Supremacy MX, complete with all accessories. There seems to only be a small decrease in cooling capacity compared to the Evo - what do you guys think? For £36 new there's also the Alphacool NexXxoS XP³ Light.

For pumps, what do people think about the seemingly unpopular bay drives? I have two spare 5.25" bays, they may as well get used for something! XSPC Dual 5.25" Drive Bay Reservoir V2 with Single D5 Vario Pump to be specific, capacity 300ml.

Thanks

 

[Blaylock]

If you're looking for budget fans check out Cougar Vortex. They wont beat out Noctua in a heads up battle but the 120's put out 2.2mmH2O and you can buy them for half the cost of the Noctua.

Either of those block will serve their purpose just fine.

Bay res's are perfectly fine too. Many people use them when space is a factor.

 

[Cnaydmancangt]

LOL This pump is so quiet I need to put my hand on it to feel if it's on.

Maybe you cant hear vibrations like i can, but when the pump was sitting on my desk i could feel and hear the vibrations from the solid metal legs touching the wooden desk, when i put the peg legs on something so the metal didnt touch the noise went away.. So ima have to still disagree with you lol. Tilt the pump and look at the legs youll see what im talking about, but its fine it isnt my pc just thought id point out what i noticed lol.

As for what to buy for watercooling, the AIO kits are cheaper then buying the parts seperetly. A decent block is $80-100, tubing 35 for the stuff someone mentioned, the fittings youll need 6 those are like $5-6 each, the pump/reservoir for most kits the tiny reservoirs are like $100, the 360mm radiators are $60-90 then youll need fans.. A simple AIO kit was only $175 for me.. Much cheaper then buying it all by themselves. I have two loops in my system. I probably should have thought more about it and just bought a CPU block for $100 then spend the $175 on a 2nd kit, but in the end i figure the cpu and gpu on two different loops will keep both cooler, if my loop is warm on the 1080ti, with a 360mm radiator imagine a cpu added to it. That and its only 75$ more for that 2nd 360mm radiator, with the 3 rgb fans which was a better deal

 

[GTXJackBauer]

The only downfall I can see with bay reservoirs is if their reservoirs are too shallow therefore you wouldn't necessarily be able to run the pumps too high or you'll be subjected to sucking in air like mines does. (Swiftech Maelstrom dual bay res w/ MCP35X2)

Don't forget, it's easier to find EK, Aquacomputer and Alphacool gear since you're in the EU as they are. I'm actually a big fan of Aqua's gear since I use their Aquaero controller but they're more in the premium side of liquid cooling.

Other than Swiftech's fan splitter, also check out Aqua's fan and USB hub, SPLITTY9 and the HUBBY7. Great solid german engineered pieces.

 

[Locla]

Thanks for the fan suggestion Blaylock, I managed to find 4 fully boxed etc Cougar Vortex CF-V12HPs for £20 Do you reckon these would work effectively on a 45mm rad, or should I stick to 30mm? There're a couple of deals on each. I may only have enough space for pull configuration should I put a future GPU rad on the front intake, instead of as a top exhaust as you have done. (Although for the time being I guess I'll use push/pull seeing as I've got 4 fans incoming!)

The EK Supremacy MX is also on the way

Cnaydmancangt I certainly agree that a custom loop is more expensive than an AIO, however, doing the addition I am certain to pay £150-180 with my current options, with a max of £250 which I won't go past; I'll become patient at that point and wait for a better parts deal. A decent AIO would indeed cost me half as much but I have some doubts regarding the longevity of them. I've read plenty of reviews about how long they've lasted but I've read even more complaining that their temperature deltas have declined, or other issues. Also all of those Asetek AIOs apparently contain mixed metals which I'm not too sure about, although they are sealed and contain appropriate coolant. The parts I've selected and factored into the price, even though used (but in a good functional state), are quality recommendations from this forum and my own research - I'm hoping that I'll be able to achieve some better temps than an AIO! Finally, I guess I've got the bug for custom loop water cooling. Parts are on their way so I'm on the warpath now in any case haha what are your temps like for the 1080ti with the 360 rad, btw? I was originally planning on eventually running a separate loop for the GPU, because of the heat, although it's been suggested above that this may not be a necessity.

GTXJackBauer I hear you about the dry pump issue, and I'm still undecided on which one I'll get tbh. If I do go with a dual bay option I'll just have to run the pump at a lower speed if that issue becomes apparent. I'll deffo look into the brands you mention, although the Aquaero controller does not appear to be within my budget; premium just as you say!

I have a feeling that a deal on fittings is what's gonna hold the project up, but there're some Primochill and Bitspower deals that I'm keeping tabs on. The EKWB custom loop configurator suggests that I'll only need 6 standard compression fittings (EK-ACF) and I'm inclined to agree, given the components in the loop, but I've read that having a couple of right angles is real useful. Did you encounter any difficulties with fittings Blaylock, seeing as our cases are almost identical?

Thanks so much for everyone's help, this is really starting to come together

 

[Blaylock]

Those fans will be just fine for 45mm rads. I'm pretty sure that's what mine are. I'll double check and post back.

The only issues I had with fittings besides the pair of Bitspower rotaries that leaked were of my own design. I have a unique set-up in the front of the case for my drain line. It's a very tight fit. I could have designed it differently to alleviate that headache but there are less hoses visible and that was my goal.

 

[Cnaydmancangt]

Judging by the premixed coolant i bought from EK, its just Ethylene glycol and a dye.. Thats it.. I work on cars and ive taken probably 2000 radiators out of vehicles.. That isnt a smell you forget.. Personally it upsets me that i paid $17 for that little bottle if i had known it was just ethylene i would have mixed my own coolant. There descriptions make it out to be liquid gold with special bacterial and fungus preventers when it isnt. Nothing can live in ethylene glycol.. They are just banking the cash on idiots like us

So for AIO's i bet they use the same thing. Ethylene glycol can last 3-5 years depending on what you buy.. The dissimilar metal thing is a fad if you have proper coolant.. Cars for example use iron blocks, and aluminum radiators with copper heater cores.. LOL do the calculations on that, and there is no galvanic corrosion on a vehicle with the proper coolant. The problem with the internet and alot of PC builders is there just ignorant when it comes to metals.. The corrosion you see on pics and videos i garuntee was them using plain distilled water.. That will cause galvanic corrosion on mixed metals..

Logetivity i will agree with.. AIO's if they are in fact using ethylene glycol would need the liquid to be changed after 3-5 years. Now there are more advanced coolants that claim to last a lifetime but i wouldnt trust that.. Its like how they tell you to never change transmission fluids in honda's ohhh they never need changed.. BS !

AIO'S though arent sealed. You can take the block apart easily and flush the system.. Get a block and drain the loop, then get a bucket dip the pump in the bucket run it, and flush the system out.. Then get fresh coolant and do the same thing to bleed the air out.. seal it and your done.. If the pump cant be dipped just fill the system shaking air out until most of it is out.. The only thing on a AIO i wouldnt touch is the connectors on the pump and radiator for the hoses.. they look like a one time press fit. Im a bit behind on current watercooling, at least until i got the stuff i have now, but i am no idiot i know my chemicals and it really irks me how much they sell these coolants for

 

[Locla]

Unfortunately my PSU, mobo or CPU (can't tell which) has chosen this particular point in time to stop working. I'll post back after I've identified the culprit and got a replacement part.

 

[Locla]

Hi again

I think the motherboard was to blame, so I've upgraded to LGA 1150. The CPU should be arriving next week so fingers crossed I'll actually have a working desktop by then. Naturally the additional expense has negatively affected my available budget for water cooling, but I've managed to scrape the following parts list together:

Cougar Vortex CF-V12HP fans x 4
Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm x 1
XSPC Dual 5.25" Drive Bay Reservoir V2 with Single D5 Vario Pump x 1
EK Supremacy MX CPU Water Block copper/plexi x 1
White Primochill PrimoFlex LRT Advanced hose 10/16 mm 3/8”-5/8” x 4M
XSPC 10/16 mm 3/8”-5/8” V2 compression fittings x 8
(Coolant?)
(Fan cables/splitters?)

The block is a little bit scratched/pitted, so I hope the TIM will be enough to fill the gaps as I don't really want to have to lap it.

There's a fill port on the top of the drive bay res/pump, and from what I've read a drain port is a very good thing to have, when it comes time to flush in about a year. I also read that having a bottom intake radiator complicates the issue as the drainage port is invariably above the lowest point in the loop, and this makes it difficult to empty the radiator down at the bottom. What can I do about this?

Cnaydmancangt from what I can gather ethylene glycol has half the specific heat capacity of water, so I'd probably go for distilled water accompanied with a small quantity of anti-corrosives, anti-microbials and lubricant. Unless I just buy the premix suggested by GTXJackBauer, which seemed reasonable.

The pump doesn't need to be on a PWM connector, right? It's only got a 3 pin and the fact that it's got 5 variables on the dial on the back of it suggests that it isn't PWM anyway.

Hopefully nothing else will break this time

 

[Blaylock]

Looking at you post a few things come to mind...

Hi again

I think the motherboard was to blame, so I've upgraded to LGA 1150. The CPU should be arriving next week so fingers crossed I'll actually have a working desktop by then. Naturally the additional expense has negatively affected my available budget for water cooling, but I've managed to scrape the following parts list together:

Cougar Vortex CF-V12HP fans x 4 If you're planning push/pull at the bottom of the case you will probably lose the PSU cover. I'll check tonight if I have time.
Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 240mm x 1
XSPC Dual 5.25" Drive Bay Reservoir V2 with Single D5 Vario Pump x 1
EK Supremacy MX CPU Water Block copper/plexi x 1
White Primochill PrimoFlex LRT Advanced hose 10/16 mm 3/8”-5/8” x 4M
XSPC 10/16 mm 3/8”-5/8” V2 compression fittings x 8
(Coolant?)
(Fan cables/splitters?) Does your case come with the fan hub? The Luxe does. Why not just use that?

The block is a little bit scratched/pitted, so I hope the TIM will be enough to fill the gaps as I don't really want to have to lap it. I would only lap it if you end up with bad temps.

There's a fill port on the top of the drive bay res/pump, and from what I've read a drain port is a very good thing to have, when it comes time to flush in about a year. I also read that having a bottom intake radiator complicates the issue as the drainage port is invariably above the lowest point in the loop, and this makes it difficult to empty the radiator down at the bottom. What can I do about this? If you look at the pics I posted I drain my loop by setting the case on its right side so the drain is now the lowest point. After a few moments I open the reservoir top a little to allow air into the loop and this speeds the process.

Cnaydmancangt from what I can gather ethylene glycol has half the specific heat capacity of water, so I'd probably go for distilled water accompanied with a small quantity of anti-corrosives, anti-microbials and lubricant. Unless I just buy the premix suggested by GTXJackBauer, which seemed reasonable.

The pump doesn't need to be on a PWM connector, right? It's only got a 3 pin and the fact that it's got 5 variables on the dial on the back of it suggests that it isn't PWM anyway. I just run my pump at one speed. So no need for PWM.

Hopefully nothing else will break this time

 

[batboy]

If the pump has a 3 pin connector, then you don't need or want a PWM connector.

I've been watercooled for 16-17 years and went through the phase of additives and gunk in my loop. But, nowadays I keep it simple. I just use distilled water with a drop or two of PT Nuke. So far that has worked the best for me as long as I drain and flush about every 6 months.

 

[Locla]

Cheers for your responses both

I've decided to keep the PSU case off for now just in case it gets in the way (and, well, it's all over my room rn anyway seeing as the MB died).

You're right about the fan hub, really I just need a couple of splitters for all the fans to run off PWM. I've bought a couple and they're on their way.

I was thinking the same thing regarding the lapping, I'll wait and see how the temps are before attempting it!

Regarding the drain I do see what you mean now, easy enough to just reorient the case. Although I'll probably have to use some random (appropriate) object and a jubilee clamp to stopper it between drains, as I don't wanna send off for just a single extra stopper fitting.

I think I will just run my pump at number 3/2 for the first few days to see how effective it is at that speed; good to know I don't need PWM for it

batboy that's really helpful to know about the coolant. I was considering adding a small amount of coolant additive (Lucas oil super coolant) for its surfactant and anti-corrosive properties, but it sounds like you're getting on well without it. I'll deffo go with the PT Nuke, but would you recommend steering clear of the coolant additive entirely? I've been having a read of this forum's guide https://www.overclockers.com/pc-water-coolant-chemistry-part-ii/ and Lee concluded that additives were necessary, although it may be a little outdated now?

 

[batboy]

It depends on whether you have different metals in your loop. Especially if you have both copper and aluminum in your loop. I have no aluminum in my loop, so that helps. I revamped and upgraded about a year ago and I changed the loop around a bit after one month and then added a second radiator after about 3 months. I checked the inside of the block and the inside of the rad. If you do have aluminum corrosion, that's a fine white gunk that builds up inside the block and rad, which eventually clogs stuff up and decreases cooling. If you see anything like that starting, then maybe you do need a shot of anti-corrosion stuff (after you thoroughly clean the loop out). I have found it's better to keep things simple if possible. The downside is I have to drain and flush more often.

 

[Locla]

The rad and block are both copper, so the only different metal is the brass fittings but that should be alright. I see what you mean about keeping things simple. Although being able to drain and flush once every year instead of twice sounds appealing too

It turns out that it was the PSU that died after all (unless one of my new things is DOA ) so I gotta wait for that to arrive now.

 

[batboy]

I'm not proud of it, but I neglected my loop once for 3 years. Dust was caked thick on the rad and fans. I had used a blue pre-mixed coolant and there was a blue crud clogging up the rad and block. I got it cleaned back up and running good again. But, I had to scrub the disassembled block with a toothbrush and do the rad cleaning dance for an hour with dilute vinegar before I could refill. I found out the additives (especially dyes) do more harm than good. That's when I went to plain distilled water and a little biocide.

 

[GTXJackBauer]

I'm not proud of it, but I neglected my loop once for 3 years. Dust was caked thick on the rad and fans. I had used a blue pre-mixed coolant and there was a blue crud clogging up the rad and block. I got it cleaned back up and running good again. But, I had to scrub the disassembled block with a toothbrush and do the rad cleaning dance for an hour with dilute vinegar before I could refill. I found out the additives (especially dyes) do more harm than good. That's when I went to plain distilled water and a little biocide.

It's not the premix fluid that's the issue but the dyes that create the issue. Also, I make sure I get a clear premix solution with a good balance from a reputed company from the likes of EK and Aquacomputer, etc.

 

[Locla]

Hi guys,

My new PSU arrived today and the actual PC is finally up and running, but I have to leave the UK in a few hours and I won't be back for a month. I would have had this loop up and running by now had it not been for the random PSU failure.

I want to thank you all for your help. The only thing I'm missing is fittings (the vendor sent me the wrong size) and a drain port. I'll sort this when I come back.

I guess I'll re-post results to this thread in about 5-6 weeks!

Til then

 

[Nebulous]

Hi guys,

My new PSU arrived today and the actual PC is finally up and running, but I have to leave the UK in a few hours and I won't be back for a month. I would have had this loop up and running by now had it not been for the random PSU failure.

I want to thank you all for your help. The only thing I'm missing is fittings (the vendor sent me the wrong size) and a drain port. I'll sort this when I come back.

I guess I'll re-post results to this thread in about 5-6 weeks!

Til then

Awesome. Have a safe trip!

 

[CMart]

Ive read through your idea, but I have a thought. You are spending so much on rads and pumps and res you might want to consider a new case. You can get a good big case for like 50$ this would probably be like half the price of a triple stack rad. Just a thought but a new case could give you a lot of options. I also have a question for you... How much metal work and case modding would you be willing to do? Ive gotten some huge rads in some not so big cases by simply creating the mounting holes for the screws and taking out all non essential case components. If you are gonna mount rads to your top it would be wise to drill holes to give proper airflow. Ive used cases that have a reservoir back on them if your case has that which I don't believe that model does you may want to consider this.

 

[Locla]

Back again

Thanks CMart, which case would you recommend for $50? My Phanteks case is fairly spacious and at £90 was a good price at the time of buying. The rad and pump/res cost me a total of £70, but there seems to be less availability for water cooling parts here in the UK than in the USA. The most expensive thing on my list without a doubt was fittings, as the first person I bought from had listed the wrong size (and I bought useless tubing as a result ). The best deal I found was for a mixture of XSPC and Bitspower 12/16mm fittings x 45pcs, at over £100 :/



But still, I am planning on adding to the loop in the future, so those fittings should come in handy.

I'm fully willing to carry out modding as required, although with space and pre-made mounting holes for a 360mm rad up top along with my 240mm rad on the bottom/front, I don't anticipate having to any time soon The drive bay pump is combined with the res so should be ok; there is mounting space within the case for a cylindrical pump/res as well.

For the replacement tubing, I was thinking to buy 3 meters Primo advanced. I'm only water cooling the CPU, so does 3 meters sound about right, bearing in mind the possibility of making a mistake?