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Fish's First WC Build - Log

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Conumdrum said:
Can't you turn the block 180 degrees? Usually you can, upside down the heat spreader on the CPU block will still align with the die in the CPU.
Click to expand...

That was my original idea. I might do that since I wouldn't have to toy with disconnecting the tubing from the radiator since it was a pain to reach back in that corner to tighten the compression fitting!

Right now about to put 2 x 2TB HDDs in a Raid 1 array - after I get all that setup I'll see if I want to re-tune the loop. Temps look good though (see original post)!!
 
willardcw4 said:
CPU:
Haswell i7 4770K (3.5GHz stock)
4.5 GHz @ 1.25V, peak temp 85C with ambient 26C on AIDA 64 after 25 minutes

Memory:
16GB (2x8GB) Corsair Vengeance Pro 1866 MHz (9-10-9-27 2T stock)
1866 MHz, 9-9-8-25 1T

GPU:
EVGA 780GTX Hydro Copper (Core 980MHz / Boost 1033MHz, Memory 3004MHz stock)
Using EVGA Precision X software
+102% Power Target (NOT linked to temp target)
+65 MHz GPU Clock offset
+130 MHz Mem Clock offset
Variable Voltage
Ultimate frequencies under load (Unigine Benchmark):
Core 1385MHz, Mem 3134 MHz --- 36C with ambient 26C
Click to expand...

I really have to say your CPU temps seems pretty high for a watercooled system. What Tim was used and is it seating properly? That's a pretty high temp even on Air. At 4.5GHz I've seen folks get a less temp. You should be around the 60c-70c range tops and that's pushing it imo.

As for your HC GPU, I have to say you got a fine piece there to get those clocks stable in a benchmark. Not all are lucky but you seem to have gotten really lucky with a very nice clocking GPU. Wonder what your ASIC is on that GPU.
 
GTXJackBauer said:
I really have to say your CPU temps seems pretty high for a watercooled system. What Tim was used and is it seating properly? That's a pretty high temp even on Air. At 4.5GHz I've seen folks get a less temp. You should be around the 60c-70c range tops and that's pushing it imo.

As for your HC GPU, I have to say you got a fine piece there to get those clocks stable in a benchmark. Not all are lucky but you seem to have gotten really lucky with a very nice clocking GPU. Wonder what your ASIC is on that GPU.
Click to expand...

Idle I'm at approximately 36 or 37C at room temp of 28C (water temp 32C), and under load (i.e. video game) I'm usually around 60 - 65C. The benchmark tasked the CPU harder than anything else I can throw at it, but the TIM application may not have been that great (Pk-1). The block was sliding around a little when trying to clamp that puppy on.

I'll continue to monitor my CPU temps and, if necessary, remount the block... but I don't think it will be an issue. Running Prime95 with 8 workers (blended) my peak temp is 73C (with room temp of 28C). Since it's haswell and OC'ed to 4.5 GHz (stock 3.5GHz) and increased voltage I figured these were acceptable temps. Is that out of line??
 
willardcw4 said:
Idle I'm at approximately 36 or 37C at room temp of 28C (water temp 32C), and under load (i.e. video game) I'm usually around 60 - 65C. The benchmark tasked the CPU harder than anything else I can throw at it, but the TIM application may not have been that great (Pk-1). The block was sliding around a little when trying to clamp that puppy on.

I'll continue to monitor my CPU temps and, if necessary, remount the block... but I don't think it will be an issue. Running Prime95 with 8 workers (blended) my peak temp is 73C (with room temp of 28C). Since it's haswell and OC'ed to 4.5 GHz (stock 3.5GHz) and increased voltage I figured these were acceptable temps. Is that out of line??
Click to expand...

That paste is not bad at all. PK-3 I believe is their newest revision. I would maybe remount the block since you said it moved a lot while installing it. It's ok if it moves a little but if it moved constantly than I would possibly redo it.

Your idle temps and water temp seem fine for an ambient of 28c to be honest. It's possible you're pushing a lot of voltage to the CPU. Is your voltage set to auto when OCing your CPU? If you have, most say to do it manually since auto can push more than the needed voltage.

If you can, add your PC components including H20 in your sig.
 
Your temps are about where they should be. Your CPU could be a bit hotter and 28C room temps don't help. Us Vegas-sans know about that.

Try a remount, give us pics of your TPaste spread on the CPU? And maybe drop the voltage a bit, if you needed a big bump for 4.5 vs 4.4 then maybe 4.4 would be better.

Dunno, your temps are decent I see no major issues. Since 65C is plenty good for normal usage. Is it quiet? I know it looks good.
 
I upped my voltage and is manually set at 1.25V to handle the 4.5GHz (I have a 'lower end' haswell chip unfortunately and can't push it any higher :(). So I can play with it a bit and lower the voltage / clock.

I'll pick up some of that Gelid paste, thanks for the link!!!

I think I'm going to integrate another 240mm rad into my loop on the bottom of my case in preparation for another video card. So I'll drain my loop and then re-seat the cpu block during that process. I want to re-route my tubing to integrate the new rad anyway. I'll take pics of the previous application and post them to see if the movement screwed it up.

The tear down may not be for a while since my temps aren't 'bad' but maybe a small underclock is in order. I'll keep my eyes on the temps while gaming. My 780GTX Hydro Copper is absolutely beautiful! Temps are phenomenal and that beast can roar!

Thanks for the suggestions so far guys :)

Will run the comp through some benchmarks when its not so freakin' hot so my ambient temp is 1 or 2C lower!
 
Last edited:
Ambient temp and chip temps are so close to 1:1 as you know. So don't worry about that.

Your temps are fine at 4.5, but that room gets warmer now. My goodness, I remember doing load tests on my rig with the 280's. Hallway temp was 80F, my room temps was 85F after 30 min. One reason I never got into overclocking and dropped my tech station and built with modern hardware this time. Hey, I live in Vegas.

And now your hooked. Already adding another rad etc.

Ohh use BLUE dye, it dropped my temps by 10C. Amazing!
 
Conumdrum said:
And now your hooked. Already adding another rad etc.

Ohh use BLUE dye, it dropped my temps by 10C. Amazing!
Click to expand...

Haha definitely hooked! Thanks for all the help so far as well! :)

I always heard RED dye is best for ASUS mobo's, since it matches the ROG color scheme - an immediate 3C drop in temps :thup:

I posted a couple SSD and Graphics benchmarks underneath my main post (with CPU temp monitoring). Will update with more thorough results once I get my new Dell U2711's hooked up this week!
 
Ohh it's gonna happen now, you should read the forum feedback forum. LOL, you're screwed now.

And you have no control over it, it's all up to the mods now. MUAHAHAHAH!
 
Conumdrum said:
Ohh it's gonna happen now, you should read the forum feedback forum. LOL, you're screwed now.

And you have no control over it, it's all up to the mods now. MUAHAHAHAH!
Click to expand...

HAHAHAHAHA... hilarious!!!!!!

Anyway - I have a question about this loop specifically. I am going to be liquid cooling my old PC and am about to buy a CPU block... I am considering getting the Swiftech Apogee HD and using that on THIS build in the thread, and using the Raystorm on my 'new' build (where just the CPU is being cooled).

I'm worried about pressure loses on the Apogee HD. If I plug that puppy into this loop (I also will probably be adding a RX240 rad at the bottom of the case, for fun and in preparation for an eventual SLI setup), would I notice significant decreases in flowrate? Keep in mind I have 2 x QD-4 quick disconnects in the loop.

Isn't the solution to simply ramp up my D-5 Vario from setting '3' to '4'?? Not worried about noise, since the monsoon res has the pump shrouded and I can't hear it even with my ear up against that thing!

Also, as far as a TMI remover - is Isopropyl Alcohol not the 'approved' method anymore? I see a lot of TIM removal products out there these days but have ZERO experience. What will give me the best results? A Q-tip and 99% Isopropyl? Or some new fandled good stuff??
 
IA is perfectly fine. Artic Clean is great to remove the slime off the Vregs and VRAM on the gpu. The stuff is pretty cheap and it'll last a long time. Goop off works too but I think it's acetone based so you don't want to pour it or spill it on the board.

IA and p towel work fine with q tips. Coffee filter for last wipe. Low lint.
 
Conumdrum said:
IA is perfectly fine. Artic Clean is great to remove the slime off the Vregs and VRAM on the gpu. The stuff is pretty cheap and it'll last a long time. Goop off works too but I think it's acetone based so you don't want to pour it or spill it on the board.

IA and p towel work fine with q tips. Coffee filter for last wipe. Low lint.
Click to expand...

Got it - Thanks C :)

Will take more pics of the tear-down and subsequent re-build in this thread. Will also get some benchmarks rolling with the new monitors, plus I'll throw in some other pics of the first build when I get some more time!
 
Last edited:
Updated the 3rd post with my RE-BUILD!!!! Would like feedback on the old and new TIM applications and any other info that may be helpful! Thanks in advance :)
 
willardcw4 said:
08/20/2013



First things first... how was my old TIM application?

Well I'm cutting out pics etc and hope my reply works right.
You had overtighenten one side more than the other in the TIM pics. You gotta be very careful to get even tightening. Knowing you there must of been some simple early mistake, 2-3 extra turns on one side of the block.





I used the two step Arcti-Clean product and, as stated a million times, it's simple and works. I decided to use them instead of just isopropyl in order to keep them in my 'bag of tricks':

AC is pretty nice stuff eh?

Here is my TIM application of GC Extreme (it's messy and I'm a bit embarrassed, but oh well - decided to go with it).

More paste than I would of used. That's a very fat pea and a large grain of rice.

I used the aluminum bracket for the Raystorm this time to eliminate any potential 'bending' issues that are commonly reported. Also flipped the block 180 degrees from my previous setup to make for a more 'logical' loop config:


All fans are GT AP-15s at max rpm (noise no concern).

Are you happy with them? They are good fans.

First - my CPU temps are lower. No higher than 62C for the CPU with an ambient of 27C playing Payday 2 at 2560 x 1440 resolution with the clocks in my sig. My CPU peak temps after about 20 minutes of AIDA 64 hits about 80C where it used to hit 85C. I know the remount was a contributor, but not so convinced the extra raddage is contributing - here's why..

My GPU temps are higher by about 2-3C.
You open the GPU block to remove the gunk?

Lastly, what is the space between the bottom of the case and the floor etc?

Pics don't show much, might need to take two great Sci Fi books like Childhoods End and raise the case up. Bottom rad could be starved. Meaning the whole case is starved.
Click to expand...
 
Try this, our standard temp tests.

Start Prime 95 small ffts. Start Heaven Max load, it will keep looping. Or for MAX fun, Furmark burn in test. You want to load BOTH the CPU and GPU at the same time since they are in the same loop. Common sense.

Post idle temps/room temps. Run load for 30 minutes, then post load temps and room temps. 30 minutes is the key. Your loop will be stabilized. Maybe less time, but if we keep testing standards the same, we can at least have a comparison within our knowledge.

I never used Ida whatever, not a standard and you're the first to use it in a longgg time.
 
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