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Frankenputer: It's alive!!!

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DocClock aka MadClocker

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2000
Location
Stockton Cal, USA, Earth
I finally got the gonads to re-cap my old SH6 (seeing as how it had only 1 bad cap) and I now have my PIII 700E back to 1.1g..but my fav old AGP card don't seem to work now, so for now I have to use this old All in Wonder 128 with a whopping 16mb video ram.
Now that I know that the old monster still runs, I will try the geforce again, and maybe repair an old gforce2 pro I have lying about and see if that works also.

Now that I have had the confidence to repair my baby, I feel I can now do the two BE6-II raids and the original BE6 that I have...and yes I have enough slot one cpu's to fill the four boards and then some.
Words cannot describe how good it feels to do the work myself and have it actually bootup.
I will be happier to see my geforce running in that old machine and then I can play some old school flight sims.

I have just finished installing win2k...no service packs yet...actually the 1st prog I installed was cpu-z to get a screnshot at 1108mhz.

After I get one of the gforce cards going, I will get all the drivers for the SB-LIVE XGamer and Invidia stuff, and then I can push this puppy back to around 1129...I know that a 400mhz overclock is not that impressive nowadays, but for a coppermine PIII, it is breathtaking...especialy on air.
I wanna play all nite, but I have to work in the morning so I gotta wait until after...but I'm so pumped!
I wonder if Quadzilla and Frankenputer can play nice together?
 

Albaholic

Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2001
Wow, oldies but goodies. I remember way back then. a 300 or 400mhz overclock really felt like it made a difference.
 
OP
DocClock aka MadClocker

DocClock aka MadClocker

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2000
Location
Stockton Cal, USA, Earth
OK first screenie for revived Frankenputer.
franky.JPG

Abit SH6 slot one (815E chipset)
PIII 700E @ 1100 mhz (for now)
SB LIVE! X gamer
128mb Mushkin PC133 rev 2 at 2-2-2
128mb Mushkin PC133 rev3 at 2-2-2
Lynksys etherfast nic
Enermax 431 power supply
ATI All in Wonder 128 (also for now) Till I decide which geforce card to use.
 

Old Thrashbarg

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
1.1ghz out of a Coppermine ain't bad... A lot of the official 1.13ghz ones wouldn't even run at 1.1ghz. :D

One thing you might want to note, though... if there's a bad cap on a board, especially if it's in the CPU VRM section, it's extremely unlikely that only one of them is bad. While it may work for now by only replacing the one, it may even work for quite awhile, I would put good money that you'll have a lot easier time with stability if you go through and re-do all the large caps near the CPU and RAM slots.
 
OP
DocClock aka MadClocker

DocClock aka MadClocker

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2000
Location
Stockton Cal, USA, Earth
Oh yea, I'm quite aware about the caps...this is my 2nd SH6 board, and I have two BE6-II raid boards and one BE6 and they all need capping. I was in a hurry to get one going just to see if I could still do it (delicate soldering) with my fading eyes.
I will do a thorough job on the BE6's for sure, and when this one fails again, and we all know it will, I will replace all the caps on this one too..
...but for now, I think I will crank it up to where it was b4, take a screenie and then back it down a tad, put a fan blowing towards the caps, and load a few games that will not load or play in XP or above while I work on the other boards.

I have been missing the ability of strafing stuff from a P47 or a P51 in MS combat flight sim....and I just like flying on the cheap...can't do it in reality, too expensive.

I like Crimson skies too (I know kinda corny, but I like it)
 

Bobnova

Senior Member
Joined
May 10, 2009
1.1ghz out of a Coppermine ain't bad... A lot of the official 1.13ghz ones wouldn't even run at 1.1ghz. :D

One thing you might want to note, though... if there's a bad cap on a board, especially if it's in the CPU VRM section, it's extremely unlikely that only one of them is bad. While it may work for now by only replacing the one, it may even work for quite awhile, I would put good money that you'll have a lot easier time with stability if you go through and re-do all the large caps near the CPU and RAM slots.

One of the reviews on Johnnyguru (PSU's, but caps are caps) mentions that when a cap starts to bulge it is already shot. I just ran into a non-bulging cap that is shot, too. It was in a mazda b2600i ECU.
 

Old Thrashbarg

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
...but for now, I think I will crank it up to where it was b4, take a screenie and then back it down a tad, put a fan blowing towards the caps, and load a few games that will not load or play in XP or above while I work on the other boards.

Sounds like a plan.

@Bobnova- Yeah, a cap doesn't have to bulge to be bad... as a matter of fact, Teapo branded ones are especially notorious for failing with no external signs whatsoever.

Oh, also, if it helps: I've been doing a lot of re-capping work lately, and I've taken to primarily using Nichicon HN series where ultra-low ESR is necessary (i.e., the CPU side of the VRM, etc.), and Chemicon KZH series on the primary side of the VRM (i.e., the ones between the raw voltage feed and the MOSFETS). They work quite well, they're readily available at Mouser, and they're pretty cheap.
 
OP
DocClock aka MadClocker

DocClock aka MadClocker

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2000
Location
Stockton Cal, USA, Earth
Man, I'm so stoked...This proc has never been here b4....1136mhz..that's a new record for this old rig. :burn:
Edit:
Funny thing is...I set the bus speed to 161mhz, not 162.
This board has always been aggressive when it comes to bus speeds...I forgot that this old dog has always been 1 tick faster than what it says in the setup prog.
I think I will run it this speed for a while, and then start dropping the core volts till it becomes unstable and see where it will level off....I hope it still runs at this speed after I install the service pack.

So now the rig has a geforce 4 MX 400 instead of the AIW 128...(I knew I had a good geforce card lying around).
Crimson Skies here I come!
:edit:
 
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vgta88

Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2007
hey if you don't mind i'm thread high jacking a bit. not really

just wanted to ask about the conditions of the motherboard. you obviously knew it was bad caps (i've heard of blown ones still posting) but how is what i'd like to know.

i'm trying to distinguish between hopeless situation of my 2 motherboards. both were used with a bad psu (the psu has seen 6 years of 24/7 use) [ASUS A7N8X VM 400 nforce2] and [ABIT NF7-M nforce2], the nf7-m worked for a day until i unplugged the psu overnight.

cpu voltage filtering on board was stable voltages. from what I can tell nf7-m used all rubycons and used the 12volt rail for cpu power. people say asus used 5v rail for cpu.

the bad psu, i have no idea whats wrong with it but it seems 5vsb(standby light is on) is overheating the southbridges on both nforce2 boards and there is no post. voltages are in low end of 5% spec(bios). If I knew it was psu causing this I would have recapped/rebuilt or gotten a way better psu.

I brought a backup corsair cmpsu-400cx but didn't use (so i can return unopened) since the old psu booted the board the first time fine after "load testing" with a hdd and jumping. I heard the cmpsu-400cx had the same layout as the vx450 and the higher end models(all made by seasonic). only differene being the caps, the main cap was higher voltage rated (+85°c vs 105°c) and all japanese caps as well as the little ones.

the cmpsu-400cx was reviewed to use ost caps and one main japanese cap so I don't want to go through the hassle of recapping right away, gonna return for something more favorable.


thing is I heard faint poping like static electricity noise around power sw area on mb when I inserted the 20 pin connector to the nf7-m (power cable plugged in after not before insertion). it wouldn't post. it was posting fine 1 minute before while i was changing to a another working psu.

do you guys have any experience with this or can refer me to someplace else?

I need 4 pata connectors and i'm not gonna use a ide card because it shows no smart data and generally sucks/impossible convienience wise while using oses and swaping harddrives with oses on them.

I already have some spare cpus so it would be easier to repair this. or maybe get another board but I already have 2.

i would build a real system but now is not the time and I'm not sure how much the os would work again with new hardware. none of the new stuff has 4 pata connectors so I don't know where my old hardware would go.

I'm dead determined to eventually get an esr meter? ammeter, volt meter, and a real solder iron for future purposes but priority is kind of on getting this system back up. I could have avoided this had I known the psu was so bad but it only showed signs of low voltage.
 
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