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Gemini waterblock?

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rivercom9 said:
Hey what if you make a water block in the shape of the orb with the fins and such and then have a spiral channel in the base and above the block is a fan. I know that this would defeat the purpose going water cooling to reducve noise, but would having a fan to aid the water to cool teh cpu help?

nah that won't really help all that much...it's been tried over at lostcircuits.com they found that combining water and air-cooling on the cpu isn't really that productive...since the major contributor to the efficiency of the system is the temp of the base of the waterblock, which is determined (mostly) by the temp of the water going through it. considering that the top of a waterblock, if implemented correctly, is very close to room temperature in a vanilla water-cooling rig, having a fan on top really won't help, as the air blown on top of the waterblock is the same temp AS the waterblock...
 
Hey dodge viper, I really cant tell from the pictures, what do the walls of the channels look like, or at least what the surface is like texture wise? Does the walls help create turbulance in the channels?
 
maybe, not sure on that, anything I say would be pure conjecture...

...maybe not, seems overclockers.com did their own slot1 test of combo water/air cooling...seemed to help a great deal for them...then again, testing methodology different, etc etc.
 
The interior walls and interior bottom are smooth. I will be using a Eheim 1250 pump with a T-Bird 1.4. I was hoping the pump would arrive by Friday, but received an email that its backordered. I did decide to lap the bottom even though it really did not need it. I was able to take 1500 wet & dry paper and mostly just clean it up after handling for the last few days. The ½” barbs threads are on the long side and needed to be shorten as not to lift the Lexan if the threads bottom out against the copper. I am going to run a test before installation on the water flow through the block using the 1250-317 GPH pump.
 
lol, commented withtracted, firewall activated, flame-retardant spray can ready...let the fire come!
 
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QUOTE: um... FYI, you want "turbulent" waterflow within your waterblock, and smooth walls aren't gonna do that.

Preach all you want, but Peter has a handle on the direction he makes his blocks, whether they are smooth or rough texture within. His design is based on engineering not trail and error. Even in John’s review he was overwhelmed that even the ¼” model out performed the others. What does this say about Peter’s design.
 
I'm convinced. I ordered mine last night. Being an engineer I know that what works on paper sometimes takes a crap in real life. However its a real good feeling when you design something in theory and it works out in practice. Pretty much shows that all the t's are crossed and i's are dotted.

Now it just has to show up.
 
okidoki, wasn't trying to preach at all, as my knowledge about watercooling is (mostly) theoretical...

That bit about turbulent air flow was from way back in 1st year physics lol...

heh, looks like a good cooler, and if I had the money, I would go get a nice little eheim and that smaller waterblock and have a grand time...hehe, that is, if I had money...My screaming-loud coolermaster will have to do for now
 
Vash said:

um... FYI, you want "turbulent" waterflow within your waterblock, and smooth walls aren't gonna do that.

Um, and FYI turbulence can be achieved by having a sufficient velocity for a given geometry and fluid. Having surface roughness is not necessary to produced turbulence; although it may help if designed properly.
 
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hmm about the 1/4 inch model doing the same as the 3/8 incher...

are the interior copper-block walls this size? or is it just the in/out "spigots" ?

-because if the interior pathing is the same diameter, methinks that the identical temps reported are due to the models having the same water flowrate.

-either that or it's absolutely perfectly engineered lol
 
Hey DogeViper,

Picked up an 86' Chevette heater core today. I wanted to make a shroud like yours, but don't have the quite the tools or expertise you have. I was thinking about cutting up a sheet of tin (Stuff used for HVAC ducting) and using the aluminum foil tape that is used by the HVAC contrators to hold it all together. How do you think that will hold up. All I'll need are a pair of tin snips to cut it up.

I am also having trouble finding correct size fittings for the larger outlet side. Any ideas?
 
bah, i seem to have flamebaited myself, I will retract my slightly know-it-all remark about water turbulence...
 
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