• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

gettin moisture with prommy

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

flapperhead

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2002
Location
wash dc area
hey guys im not too up to date with the prommys, this is my first one. seems when i took off the cooling head from the cpu i had a little bit of water drip out. this despite sealing evrything up very tightly.. this unit(i bought used) comes with a heater that im not using . should i use it? or is something else wrong? thnx flapper...
 

Zork

Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2003
Location
Tomball, Tx.
Are you using dielectric grease/ and or seal string. I highly recommend sealing up the socket with dielectric grease, no air = no moisture.
 

rhino56

Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2003
Location
Arkansas
flapperhead said:
hey guys im not too up to date with the prommys, this is my first one. seems when i took off the cooling head from the cpu i had a little bit of water drip out. this despite sealing evrything up very tightly.. this unit(i bought used) comes with a heater that im not using . should i use it? or is something else wrong? thnx flapper...

you'll cook your MB if you continue like that.
setting it up correctly isnt that hard.
are you putting seal string on the allen bolts?
what mach unit is it? mach 1?
you should use the heater unless you plan on insulating the entire back plate.
the next time i tear my promey down im going to make a how-to with pics.
so use the heater, make sure you put seal string on the bolts, put electrical tape over the screws on the back of MB, and you should use silicone dielectric grease.
 

WA2

Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2001
Location
SLC, UT
Cool, thanks =) WIll have to do that. I notice a little moisture last time I swapped chips.
 

crotale

Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2002
Location
Sweden
I do like this:

1. Add a thin layer of sealstring on the front frame. Even thinner where there are components raising below where the frame is mounting.

2. Add sealstring outside of the front frame

3. Add sealstring inside the frame, along the borders of it

4. Add sealstring to all components inside the frame and a little dot inside the CPU socket

5. Carefully add sealstring over the caps on the underside of the CPU

6. Sealstring on all components on the back of the board and on the back frame

7. Add a thin layer of sealstring on the evap head (will make better contact with the core)

8. Mount evap and add sealstring around the evap against the front frame.

9. Add sealstring to the bolts.

Done. :cool:
 

rhino56

Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2003
Location
Arkansas
crotale said:
I do like this:

1. Add a thin layer of sealstring on the front frame. Even thinner where there are components raising below where the frame is mounting.

2. Add sealstring outside of the front frame

3. Add sealstring inside the frame, along the borders of it

4. Add sealstring to all components inside the frame and a little dot inside the CPU socket

5. Carefully add sealstring over the caps on the underside of the CPU

6. Sealstring on all components on the back of the board and on the back frame

7. Add a thin layer of sealstring on the evap head (will make better contact with the core)

8. Mount evap and add sealstring around the evap against the front frame.

9. Add sealstring to the bolts.

Done. :cool:
wow you put seal string on the caps? im gonna think on that one for a while because the seal string has an insulation value to it where the silicone doesnt really. like most threads in this section it has become very interesting indeed.
 

meionm

Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2004
I use grease for the socket,
I paint around socket and back with liquid electric tape,
the plastic that goes on the back of the motherboard I seel it only once,
the other one that goes on the top I do twice,
I put two screw to guide kit together and then I squeeze everything together
works like a charm,
 

AudiMan

Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2002
Location
Winnipeg
I cut out my own Neoprene pieces and don't use seal string at all. It's much easier and swapping CPU's is a lot faster too.
 

deathstar13

FSB FRIEK
Joined
Dec 24, 2001
i have a modded head on mine so i dont use seal string either.i use neoprene and dielectric grease.

best way ive found is fill any gaps under the evap with grease.under the cpu and in the scoket,and around the socket.any place air can be i put grease there.
i use a thoothpaste sized tube in 2-3 installs,yeh thats alot but better safe than sorry also.

i wouldnt use the heater myself,and again mines all modded and has a 3/4" plexi back plate but i have 1/4" neoprene under it with grease between that and the mobo and even added 2 layers of neoprene thats has a sticky side over the plexi as i was getting cold spots threw the plexi. now thats cold :)
 

Exempt

Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2003
Location
Los Angeles, Palo Alto, Lake Tahoe
I seal string the living carp outta my mach units...front and back, and allen screw heads, and use non conductive silicon in the cpu pinholes and backside...and you know im Moisture free 1000% rhino ;) ...btw how you been bro :) Ive been tinkering with my Vapochill LS a lot lately, about to mod it some more, just gotta run some questions by bowman.
 

rhino56

Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2003
Location
Arkansas
Exempt said:
I seal string the living carp outta my mach units...front and back, and allen screw heads, and use non conductive silicon in the cpu pinholes and backside...and you know im Moisture free 1000% rhino ;) ...btw how you been bro :) Ive been tinkering with my Vapochill LS a lot lately, about to mod it some more, just gotta run some questions by bowman.
sounds like it may be a fun project, im been good excpt i havent seen my mach in about 2 weeks:( (im on vacation). lol i should have brought it with me.
it has been running trouble free for sometime though but i didnt want to leave it running while i was gone in case of power outages or if it were to go off and on several times in a row which is rare but possible so im taking no chances.
i hear nothing but good things about this guy bowman.
 

krag

Classifieds Moderator
Joined
Mar 3, 2002
Exempt said:
I seal string the living carp outta my mach units...front and back, and allen screw heads, and use non conductive silicon in the cpu pinholes and backside...and you know im Moisture free 1000% rhino ;) ...btw how you been bro :) Ive been tinkering with my Vapochill LS a lot lately, about to mod it some more, just gotta run some questions by bowman.

Ley me know about your LS mods bro. Cause I have a Vapochill LS coming from frozenCPU, it will be at my house on Thur.
 

Exempt

Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2003
Location
Los Angeles, Palo Alto, Lake Tahoe
When you mod/tweek your Vapo LS, I prefer to do it BEFORE you install it onto your Lian Li case because you have to drill holes in the bottom of your Lian li case as well as the top of the Vapo LS. First thing is when you get your unit, take off both panels with a allen wrench (uses a tiny bit) with a marker... mark a "general" front location (I used 1 1/2" from the front of the Lian li and vapo case) and on the same spot on the bottom of your lian li case in the same location. Drill a small hole there , be very careful that your not drilling into anything else though lol. Unplug both fans from the Vapochill units cheesy Fan controller PCB...the damn PCB will have a max life of about 6 months if not sooner and is not reliable. Run the fans wires (there are two fans) in the holes you drilled as you mount the case to your Vapo unit, so that the fan wires noe come through the bottom of your lian li case towards the front of it. Purchase a good reliable fan controller. Plug the fans into your new fan controller. I did this because with all my units, the mach I , mach II, and vapochill ls, ALL of the fan controllers are the most cheesiest POS, and tend to fail quite early in the life of your unit, also with the fan controller you can speed them up to max speed which the Wincc software didnt fully utilize. Also I replaced my fans with LS tech 120mm fans, which have very good performance/dbl ratings.

Second thing your going to want to do with your vapochill LS, is download the most current software for the Wincc app, its the most horrible coding to it, with random errors, which Ill ellaborrate a little more in a sec...but its all we got , so download ver 1.12. There REALLY EXTREMELY slow on creating updates for this software, so be patient for updates. Since my fans push quiet a bit more air over the compressor, the unit tends to read much much colder than it did before I changed out the fans, usually on my overclock my idle temp off Wincc is about -58.5 and load is around -39 --42 depeding on ambient room temp (Cali is hot as crap atm). Anyways, the software seems to start to have errors when the temp consistently stays below -50, youll get random errors, the program will shutdown and stop reporting updated temps. Sometimes it jsut fails to start up completely and gives a message about not being able to see the USB port, only way to solve that is to fully reboot.

Ill have to take some pics of how to mod the CHillcontrol PCB, I added a small capacitor and a fuse, since the unit takes quiet a "kick" to turn on, and is dangerously high on its amp req startup.

anyways have fun with it. Its a good unit, but I like the Mach units construction a LOT more and its sad to see that these people are the only ones mass producing Vapor cooling units. The company is very NON high speed, but there an honest company, which is why there still around. :) It does a nice job of handling extreme overclocks. I have my 3.2ee at 4.1 which I use this every single day, but Im about to goto a 3.4c within the next week or so...as well as finally add a x800xt to my rig.

btw the mod coming up is a laser cut (laser 7000 machine ROCKS) side panel for it with a CCL.
 

krag

Classifieds Moderator
Joined
Mar 3, 2002
Thanks for the info bro. Pics would really help me out.

Could you post a link to the fans and fan controlkler that you used?