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[Guide] How to Make a 4pin Molex-to-3pin Converter Cable

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moccor

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2013
How to Make a 4pin Molex-to-3pin Converter Cable

Introduction:
I had bought a fan controller a while back that allowed controlling fan speeds for fans with a 3pin connector. But the case I have came with 2 large fans that may be proprietary and they have 4pin Molex connectors. I sought help here on the Overclockers forum for some helpful info, which I got very quickly.

NOTE: The reason why in some steps it shows the electrical tape on the female Molex connector and others it doesn't is because I didn't think of making the guide until after I already finished it.

Tools that I used:
Angled Pick
Wire Cutters
Pliers
Needle-nose Pliers
Flathead Screwdriver
Scissors
Electrical Tape
Wire Crimpers

1. I have a bunch of old unused fans, so I took the one that I liked the least and cut the 2 thin wires as close as I could to the Molex connector. (circled green in the pic below)
20130206165305366.jpg


2. Since I was reusing a connector from a old fan, there were 2 extra wires leading into the 4pin Molex connector that I wanted to remove. For assurance nothing would short and to look nice. To do this, I took the needle-nose pliers and using only the one side of the pliers, I pushed in the 2 pins that were sticking out and preventing the pin from falling out. Note: This only has to be done for the 2 pins that have the 2 thin extra wires running to them.
20130206170245.jpg

Also, this doesn't Have to be done. You can use any way you want to prevent the wire from touching anything else and shorting something out. Even wrapping it in Electrical Tape is fine.
After that that, it should look like this -
2cutwires.jpg

And to ensure nothing touched those 2 very small wires, I wrapped it in some electrical tape, like so -
electricaltapedwrappedm.png


3. Looking back at the pic in step 1, there was a Female and Male Molex connector.Instead of wasting the male connector and pins, I reused those later. Use the needle-nose pliers to get the big Molex connector off by pushing those fin-like metal pieces in, like in step 2, and then cut the wire close to the male pins.
(The male Molex connector is unused, do as you want with it, but keep the 4 pins)
cutwireheremalemolex.png

So now we have this (I twisted those 2 black wires together to make the 6th step easier)
I decided to make this guide after I actually did this, and forgot that the pics I had taken already had crimped wires. The 4 wires coming from the female Molex connector should be crimped, about 2mm less than a cm.
20130206152303.jpg


4. Step 4 is simple. You know those 4 male pins we saved from the Molex connector? We are gonna reuse them soon. Cut 3 of them where I marked it in the next pic with the pink line and green arrows -
cutpinheremalemolex.png

This piece can be a bit sharp after cutting it. Though I'm sure anyone that owns wire cutters would know.

5. Now that those pins were cut, you have this little cylinder of metal with a opening down the side.
20130206152656.jpg

I took my flathead screwdriver and shoved it into that spot, like so -
20130206152441.jpg

I did this on both sides, to spread it out and make it easier to work with, because the wire coming from the Molex connectors was much thicker than the fan wire.

6. Now you need your 3pin connector. You can get this from a old fan if you have it, or even buy one. (of course you would just buy the converter before buying the cable to do it yourself lol)
Cut the wires from the 3pin cable, leaving as much wire as possible, or if you are going for a exact length and have everything measured out, cut it however you like. And then, crimp off the plastic where you cut it, about 2mm less than a cm
3pinwire.png


7. We now have those male pins opened up enough to easily put wire inside of it. Maybe there is a better way of doing this next part, but how I did it and how it worked first try, I took one of those opened male pins and first laid the smaller fan wire in it and then the thicker Molex connector wire on top.
Black (ground) wires go to black. The Red 5v wire coming out of the female Molex connector goes to the Yellow RPM wire on the 3pin connector. and the Yellow 12v wire from the female Molex connector goes to the Red 12v wire on the 3pin.
20130206154634.jpg

This is a pain btw ^, haha. After that, I took my pliers and I squeezed the sides together as hard as I could with my hands, to ensure nothing would come loose. After that, I wrapped the 3 connections in electrical tape. Make sure to do this and make sure there is no wire or metal touching from other connections. They need to be separated or it could cause problems and something could short out.
Here are my 3 connections wrapped up in electrical tape -
20130206155322.jpg


8. As the final step, I wrapped the 3 connectors in a small amount of electrical tape, to further ensure that if I tugged on it, that nothing would come loose. Camera flash really makes things seem dustier than they are haha.
finaliy.jpg


Here is a video of me testing it out on a old motherboard and fan (It's a phone camera, they do bad in low light) -

Special Thanks to the following Overclockers.com forum members for providing help and info:

Boulard83, Conumdrum, thideras, jaymz9350


If anyone needs help or has questions, feel free to ask. Enjoy.
Also, there is more info found here - http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7404793#post7404793
about places to purchase the stuff. It's on the first page, I don't want to steal someones links that they commented.

WARNING:
This is dangerous, IMHO.

You SHOULDN'T connect something that comes with a Molex to your motherboard. Probably, if it is using a Molex connector, it has a high enough amperage to require direct connection to the PSU.

Picture it like this. My San Aces use a Molex connector. They need 4A to work properly. Were I to connect this to my motherboard, I would burn it due to the incredibly high amperage running through the small traces the board uses.

Please, add a warning somewhere to let them know it should only be used if you know what you are doing. You're using it for a fan controller, and that's OK. But, someone might use it for a mobo, and things could go belly up quite easily.
 
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This is dangerous, IMHO.

You SHOULDN'T connect something that comes with a Molex to your motherboard. Probably, if it is using a Molex connector, it has a high enough amperage to require direct connection to the PSU.

Picture it like this. My San Aces use a Molex connector. They need 4A to work properly. Were I to connect this to my motherboard, I would burn it due to the incredibly high amperage running through the small traces the board uses.

Please, add a warning somewhere to let them know it should only be used if you know what you are doing. You're using it for a fan controller, and that's OK. But, someone might use it for a mobo, and things could go belly up quite easily.
 
I'd do it the other way around, with the female pins connected to the fan header. Other than that, as long as you keep an eye on the current flow, it should be fine.
 
This is dangerous, IMHO.

You SHOULDN'T connect something that comes with a Molex to your motherboard. Probably, if it is using a Molex connector, it has a high enough amperage to require direct connection to the PSU.

Picture it like this. My San Aces use a Molex connector. They need 4A to work properly. Were I to connect this to my motherboard, I would burn it due to the incredibly high amperage running through the small traces the board uses.

Please, add a warning somewhere to let them know it should only be used if you know what you are doing. You're using it for a fan controller, and that's OK. But, someone might use it for a mobo, and things could go belly up quite easily.

Done. Thanks for pointing that out, I didn't even think of something like that. I tested it on a motherboard 3pin socket tho, and it worked fine in the video. It is a small 80mm fan tho. What is the minimum/maximum amount of amps that a fan should be connected to the motherboard? My fan controller says it accepts up to 5x 30Watt fans. Should I be worried about trying this with my 230mm Thermaltake fans that came with this Thermaltake V9 Black Edition case?
 
I wouldn't go over 1a/12w on a mobo header... though admittedly im not sure what they are rates for and each mobo may be different.

Most fans are nothing.. couple of watts.
 
Yeah my one Scythe fan that I purchased maybe over 3-4 years ago, says its 0.53A, and that moves a lot of air. It can almost keep itself afloat haha
 
The 3p connector itself is only capable 3a (36w@12v) or so in my experience. I've had one fry when faced with a 4.45a fan.
 
The 3p connector itself is only capable 3a (36w@12v) or so in my experience. I've had one fry when faced with a 4.45a fan.

You think that all mobo are able to output 36w on the 3 pin dayli without frying ?
 
Well I tried this by connecting both of the 230mm fans in my pc that came with the case and I found out that the loudest thing in my case, is the PSU. Always thought it was the fans lol. Next thing to replace will be the PSU for sure
 
Well I tried this by connecting both of the 230mm fans in my pc that came with the case and I found out that the loudest thing in my case, is the PSU. Always thought it was the fans lol. Next thing to replace will be the PSU for sure

Replace the PSU fan instead. Grab a quiet fan of the dimensions the PSU uses and replace it. That's what I did with an old 500W PSU.
 
Thats an option, but potentially a dangerous one. An average user doesnt want to be poking around inside a PSU...
 
Thats an option, but potentially a dangerous one. An average user doesnt want to be poking around inside a PSU...

True.

Not to mention it's not recommended. Quoting Ed's standardized disclaimer: "Don't do this. It's somewhat less than safe. By somewhat, I mean fairly seriously. By less than safe, I mean it could probably kill you. By probably, I mean definitely."
 
Why not simply solder those wires?

It's not rocket science, quite easy once you try it. And I think entry level soldering equipment should be quite cheap in any country... comes handy for many DIY things all around.
 
Replace the PSU fan instead. Grab a quiet fan of the dimensions the PSU uses and replace it. That's what I did with an old 500W PSU.

Yeah like you and the others said, it's dangerous :p. I know just the basics about this stuff. I'm sure there is some way to discharge this thing, maybe even Google would tell me. But life > little sound. The weird thing is, there is a knob to control the fan/s. There is 3 fans in this PSU. 2x 80mm and 1x 120mm. I'm not sure if each one is controlled by the knob, probably just the 120mm.

Why not simply solder those wires?

It's not rocket science, quite easy once you try it. And I think entry level soldering equipment should be quite cheap in any country... comes handy for many DIY things all around.

Soldering Is easy and cheap. But using little metal clamps is how these connections are made by default and for those who don't know how to solder or have the iron and solder, this completely reuses the unused male pins.
 
Replace the PSU fan instead. Grab a quiet fan of the dimensions the PSU uses and replace it. That's what I did with an old 500W PSU.

I got bored and decided to open it lol. It had a 80mm intake, 80mm exhaust at the back and a 120mm intake at the bottom. The design looked and performed bad. I made the 120mm an exhaust, and my idle and load temps dropped a bit (MOBO dropped 5-7, CPU dropped 3-6). I would think the 120mm being a intake, only made noise due to being so close to the PSU parts and caused heat to stay inside of the power supply.
 
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