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heater core?

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morotorium

Registered
Joined
Nov 7, 2002
Location
Millersville PA
I have a lian li full tower case, and am trying to find a heater core that will fit above the power supply to utilize the two exhaust fans. It is a PC71USB. Any suggestions or ideas would be great! I got a core for a 1990 Ford Bronco that is too big..
 
morotorium said:
about 7' wide, 5' high, and depth can vary a bit. Measurement is in inches...

1)
This one would work.
http://becooling.safeshopper.com/17/113.htm?210
*Compact 150.4 x 128.6 x 25 mm (5.9 x 5 x 0.98 inch) dimensions allows it to fit majority of mid-tower cases

2)
OR, in the tips and techniques
"Find The Perfect Heatercore"
Greg Zenger - 9/21/02
http://www.overclockers.com/tips1031/

civic is 8"X5", and chevette is 6" X6" 1/8, so I don't know about your 7x5.

look for an auto core that fits your measurements from the article link.

good luck
 
Gemmie a sec and I'll post some pics of mine
-Toysrme

Whoops... I misread his case! He has a PC71. I have a 68. Oh well. It's the same dimensions side to side so IMHO it'll work.

Ok I've built two water cool systems and BOTH have used 1991 Ford Ranger heater cores. They're perfect. They have good, usable dimentions, and are 5/8 in and 5/8 out. Which is jsut perfect for 1/2 inch lines. <g>

Now I had two of these on hand when I started this current project.
Heater Core

Ok! So here's the heater core.
(everything in the background is R/C plane building supplies, a set of plans still tacked down on the work bench<g>)
pubimage.asp


Where's it's going to go. Note the power supply is in the computer to make sure it will fit. Also the found round holes drilled in the side. I decided that the best way to secure the heater core once installed was a large set of zipties in the front and back that hold the radiator taught up against the chassie.
pubimage.asp


Now the radiator didn't quite fit. Actually it fit EXTREAMLY snug, but it fit. UNTIL I pushed the bottom(of the radiator) over the indention where the slots for the drive bay screws go. So... How do we resolve this???

The hammer in the above pic was used to "crunch" in both sides of the radiator. The sides of the heater core do not contain fluid so they CAN BE bent in very carefully. THIS TAKES VERY LITTLE PRESSURE to bend in the sides. Watch down through the heater core(between the fins) do NOT come CLOSE to moving or bumping the "viens" that run down the inside of the core. That's where the coolant will run throguh and you don't want a leak.

ALSO!!! It is important to note that the entire top and bottom metal pieces CAN NOT be bent. YOU WILL LEAK!!! I lost the first radiator to that(ouch $15 from autozone, luckly my roommate form college works at one and ganked me one<grin> Mad props Sgt. Eddy Slaughter!)

Now that we've gotten the radiator to fit over the drive bay indention we're good to go!
pubimage.asp


Final Product
viewimage.asp


I hope that I helped in any way and thinking about it I know that I havn't as that radiator is too long to stand up above the space in between you PSU and the space left above it =( oh well you can try the top blowhole like me and add another PSU for fun ;) or susped the pump there ;)
 
Last edited:
Thanks a lot guys I appreciate the help. I was thinking of just putting blowholes on top, but then I think- Expensive Lian-Li Case....
 
Yeah I thought that too... (read I was at college last year and had no access to tools. Also read I was tired of my setup outside my comp)

Really no reason not too... Just remember all of these people going crazy with blowholes AND doing watercooling... The main attraction to me of watercooling was noise control. To each his own I guess. My blowhole acts in all ways... Intake blowhole, exhaust blowhole and radiator fan all at one time. Why??? 'Cause I was smart enough to figure out I could kill three birds with one Sunon AND make it look sweet!

-Toysrme
 
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