I used inexpensive sheet metal scissors, also known as metal "shears". This is why I had to tape the cut edges.
What gauge were they rated at? My case is quite think, and what I can find online will only cut less than 1mm thick, seems my case is over 1mm, so I am not sure if those 16-22 gauge cutters I found will do the trick. I think I need to replace the rear fan anyway as the quality stinks.
"I guess I still have a lot to learn about better quality brands, I thought Cooler Master was pretty good."
The brand is not the issue. The application scenario may be. Cooler Master makes many different coolers, air and AIO water. Their products are generally well engineered. They make small coolers for low end applications, bigger coolers for mid range applications and big coolers for high end applications. The Hyper 212X is a mid range air cooler but your CPU is a higher end processor that makes a lot of heat when pushed. As others have said, your present cooler has got you covered but without a lot of margin. Folding is an intense activity that runs 24/7, as I understand it. Although the temps you quote are well within the range of what is considered safe, I'm not sure I would feel comfortable with running my CPU in the mid 80s continuously like that.
Concerning running the Noctua NH-D15 with your RAM, I doubt it would be a problem. Your RAM's heatsink is really not that tall and the NH-D15 is made to work with taller RAM. The fin stack on the RAM side has a step cut in it for clearance. Just make sure your case has the clearance to the side panel to accommodate the height of that cooler. I think the NH-D15 is 165mm tall with fan in place. What case make and model do you have? That is not in your Sig. And if you change from your present cooler, regardless of whether you use air or water, make sure that what you get will fit. Research it.
And concerning installing an AIO (All In One) water cooler, you don't need to spend $30 to have someone do it. It's very straight forward. It comes in one piece already assembled and filled with water. You just have to mount the radiator in the case and the pump/water block on the CPU. Whoever you have been using to build your systems, historically, seems not to be reliable or give good customer service. I think it's time for you to quit depending on them and start doing your own builds and upgrades. It is not rocket science.
I think the D15 will not fit. Case not deep enough, will hit my glass I think, and I think the RAM may still be in the way, and the distance between rear heat sink fan and rear case fan will be too close I think. it looks like a great set up but I think it is too big even for my case, which is below you can check it out. I think the case fans are really weak.
I used inexpensive sheet metal scissors, also known as metal "shears". This is why I had to tape the cut edges.
Other people have used stretched nylon fabric from pantyhose as dust filers.
" The intake air is only on the side and bottom."
No fan spots in the front panel? Again, what is the make and model of the case?
I have three in the front. The case is FSP CMT520plus
https://www.fsplifestyle.com/en/product/CMT520plus.html
I think the case fans are really weak. I need some recommendations for a rear exhaust fan, I think the MSI Torex seems to move air quite well, but I am not sure how well it will work with the LED capabilities of the front fans. Or if I will end up with rear being green and red flashing while the front are white. lol. I don't know how that works, if it is controlled by the MB or not....
I am trying to find a way to remove that stupid front glass panel without breaking it also, they make such small holes in the front for air intake, I mean seriously WTH, it's just not enough airflow. I feel the front intake fans are rather weak as well, same as rear one.
@OP
check out a noctua nh-u12s or nh-u14s you can usually pick them up for $60 or $70. they both have solid memory clearance but youll have to find out if they are to tall or not(they may hit the side window). im running a nh-u12s in my back up rig and there is plenty of room between it and the memory. it actually sits in the same position as your 212. if you would like i can take a picture of it. if you have a noctua 3000rpm fan i would use that as your exhaust and simply use the bios or mb to set up a fan curve so it isnt going to blast away.
*keep in mind your using the second and fourth dimms so memory clearance isnt going to be an issue for most quality heatsinks. some of the big monster heatsinks will cover up the first dimm but nothing else.
I will check these. I have a 14MM Noctua you can see hanging, but I feel they lie about their CFM, because really I do not feel much air being pushed. I feel the MSI TOREX fans push much more air, at least it feels like it... I am not sure if I can pick those up that cheap. This one I have now is like 30 bucks. But I am a little disappointed in the airflow even though they taught some 186, while the MSI is only like 71. I don't get it.
In general, the life of a semiconductor is halved for every 10C increase in operating temperature. I would call 100% duty cycle as processor abuse if not properly cooled. If I were Intel or AMD, I would not be happy if someone wanted a replacement inside a warranty time frame and they ran it at 100% load from day 1.
Sure, the current chips are spec'ed to run without throttling at up to 90 or 100C. Doesn't mean you're being nice to it, especially if you run overclocked with boosted voltages. That's like bolting an aftermarket turbocharger to an otherwise stock engine.
I would say 80C as the thread starter talked about is just fine for long term use. The Hyper 212 is doing its job, but having to work for it.
http://www.apiste-global.com/enc/technology_enc/detail/id=1262
Wow! That's significant. I don't run OC luckily, I actually wanted to reduce the clock speeds to under 4.5 and lower the voltage, but as I do not run Boinc 24/7, I am not sure if it would create instability. I usually have to turn Boinc off when I am on a voice call or something.
10C is a lot more than I thought, wow!
Still, I wouldn't second running how the OP is now.
Intel and AMD should expect this, honestly. Look at some servers, for example. I agree overclocking and running out of spec will shorten the lifespan of a CPU. But the OP appears to be running stock (sig?) and temperatures are well within range, 20C away, in fact. This is why when overclocking and stress testing in general, for processors like this (Tjmax of 100C), we say to run ~90C or less. During normal activity, gaming for example, temperatures are, for me, 30C less giving you ample headroom for use and abuse. If 80C is as hot as it will get and running stock, I'd sleep easy for years.
Yes, stock. 4.7 or lower. And sometimes my temps will go up to 85-87C if I am not careful, but these are spikes, not constant run time. Honestly I don't know what is more dangerous, the constant high temp or a spike. I would assume the spike is not going to do much damage but the constant running at 80-90-100 will eventually fry it.
I would love my CPUs to be no higher than 75C running 100%. That would just give me that feel good, yeah I know.. Feel and real, I know I know..
So what I did tried today was reversing my roof middle fan to suck air into the machine rather than exhaust it, as it sits right over the RAM and front part of the heatsink. It didn't really change much... I think I need to remove the rear grill and getting a better fan for the back.