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Help with white liquid cooled build

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New Member
Jul 13, 2012
I would really appreciate some guidance on my new build. This is what I'm currently thinking so far:

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/dQTYNP
CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 3.7 GHz 12-Core Processor
Thermal Compound: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut 1g 1 g Thermal Paste ($7.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME X570-PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard ($209.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-4000 CL16 Memory ($269.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Lian Li LANCOOL II-W ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Adorama)
Power Supply: Super Flower Leadex III ARGB 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: the new WD_Black gen4 1 TB drive (not shown in link above)
Video Card: EVGA Hydro Copper RTX 3080 (not shown in link above, to save the work of putting a gpu block on)

It's a white build (or supposed to be). I'm planning hard line clear tubing with no bending (use 90 degree elbows instead) with blue fluid. I'd like a cylindrical reservoir and separate pump.
I'd be ok with a lower end GPU but... it seems hard to find something that has the right value proposition for that (either too low end or too expensive).

All comments and suggestions welcome!

The primary challenge I'm running into is figuring out how to purchase the liquid cooling supplies. I've been to both https://www.ekwb.com/custom-loop-configurator and https://www.corsair.com/us/en/custom-cooling-configurator but they come out rather expensive, with a few things I'm not sure I need, and I want different fittings. Seems like many of the online retailers linked here in the forums are out of business or don't carry a wide variety. What would you recommend for where and what to buy to liquid cool a build like this?

I'd like to liquid cool everything I can primarily for silence, less dust, and basic overclocking. So, maybe motherboard components and ram, also.

Are the blocks that cover both CPU and motherboard less effective at cooling the CPU than just a CPU block (and possibly separate motherboard block)?
Amazon has a ton of water cooling supplies. You can look there. Here is another company that sells tons of water cooling stuff: https://www.performance-pcs.com/

You're not going to find a 3080 unless you want to buy from a scalpter on eBay for 2x what they are worth. Yep, water cooling is expensive. Expect to spend about $700 on all the water cooling components if you're going to do it right. No, you dont need VRM cooling. Standard CPU block is fine. VRM liquid cooling is only necessary for absurd overclocks which are non-sustainable long term anyway.
You can liquid cool on a budget. You get what you pay for to some extent, but mostly you're paying for the branding IMO. There are some very low cost waterblocks out there if you spend some time looking. If you do look for some cheaper stuff, just be sure to look for posts about other people using it so you know it isn't total junk. If money is no object, then I guess an EK kit would be the go to.

I would not bother water cooling VRMs or RAM unless you're doing it purely for aesthetics.

You need at least some tubing, a radiator, an AM4 CPU block, and a pump. That's really it. So could be easily done for roughly $250 - $300 using decent parts. Can it be done for less? Yes.

For a pump, the go to is a Laing D5. Many companies make custom tops and even reservoirs that attach to this pump, and many companies re-brand this pump and sell it, with and without PWM speed control. This pump is also called the Swiftech MCP 600, MCP655, etc, and has other names under other brands.
I dident realize he isint water cooling the GPU. If he is not water cooling the GPU there is zero point in going with a custom loop unless it's for looks. An AIO will work just as good, it's WAY cheaper and it's more reliable. You can get a 280mm Corsair AIO for like $130. Custom loops are for GPU + CPU cooling.
I agree with SPL Tech. taotree, safe yourself a lot of stress and hassle and expense and just get a good AIO water system to cool the CPU. My only other question would be the advisability of going with 4000 mhz RAM. What's the scoop on the new new Ryzens with regard to the memory controller and the 1:1 ratio with the infinity fabric? Do we know yet? I'm thinking that it might be better to go with low latency 3600 mhz RAM, especially when installing 32 gb.
To clarify, the card OP lists is a card that comes with a watercooling block pre-installed. So he is indeed looking to WC it, but that is the reason my breakdown did not include a GPU WB. And as others have (more or less) said, I have heard that CL14 3200 is roughly equal to CL18 3600.
There are some AIO water cooling systems that are configurable for add-ons.
Thank you for the input. I have ordered the parts and hope to put things together over the Thanksgiving holiday. For the components that aren't available yet, I'm getting "placeholders" for now and will upgrade when I can.
Thank you for all the responses. Here it is wall mounted running a leak test. This is my first time hardlinining, and I'm going to redo the tubes with more practice. Heh, the one black tube is because apparently I the wrong color (fortunately, only one stick of it and it was really cheap on sale). So, I can practice more with that :)

I plan to have the PSU cables individually sleeved (hoping to rope in some help for that). And planning to use UV Blue fluid inside a lot more clear pipes going just horizontal and vertically (not the direct angles they're doing in that pic).

I do have another question... This nice PSU that's all pretty matching white but if I put it in right side up, the side that's visible is covered with all the specs and writing (as seen in this pic). I'd like something a little prettier there. Is there something people typically do there (other than hide in a shroud that I don't have)? Put some type of decorative plate in or something?

Looks killer man! Well done and nice and tidy other than needing a couple zip ties. What did you end up getting for WC parts? Also, totally personal preference but this may look better with the video card mounted horizontally.
What CPU waterblock did you end up using? It looks like your loop goes in this order: pump>GPU>CPU>Rad>res>pump. It appears that the CPU block has some sort of jet plate on it, and that possibly it will perform substantially better with the water flowing into the hole that is more in the middle of the block, and out of the other one. You could rotate the block 180 degrees to achieve a similar orientation to what you have now.

It appears to be the Barrow Aurora. According to their website, it is indeed optimal to have switch the inlet and the outlet from their current configuration. http://www.barrowint.com/plus/view.php?aid=1183. Of course one might also think that the chiplets (at least with 3000 series) are located in the lower area of the package and it's better to have the water flowing directly onto that area, but I think the jet plate may have a more desirable effect.
That looks like a really small rad. What is that, a 240? If so that 3080 is going to overheat it. Your CPU will overheat with that small of a rad. For a 3080 you should ideally have a 360 and a 280 or more.
Thank you all very much for the great comments! I ended up finding a 2080 hydro copper on ebay for a good price, so that'll be my GPU for a long while. Now if 5900x's would get back in stock. I bought a cheap cpu to use until I can swap it out.

It is a 360 mm rad (Black Ice Nemesis 360GTS) and so far has been doing fine. The fans are EK-Vardar EVO 120ER D-RGB. I had intended to get the Black Ice 360GTR but it wasn't in stock. The GTS is a thinner rad. Now, I'm a little concerned about sound. Would the GTR be louder? Right now, the only thing you can hear is the gentle hum of the pump (at 25% according to Q-fan), and I like how quiet it is (hmm... how can I silence the pump? :)

@Zerileous thank you so much for noticing my mistake on the CPU block. You're quite right. It's the Aurora and in/out is backward. Fortunately, these pipes were temporary. My plan is to change it to pump>CPU>GPU>Rad>res>pump. I'll have the pump go straight into the top port with the new layout.

The power supply fan cycles on occasionally and is a little loud. I had the idea: what if I mount a fan on the bottom of the power supply that always runs silently so the PSU internal fan would never have to turn on. Has anyone done or seen something like that?