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- May 15, 2001
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- Woking (near London) U.K.
Wondered about direct die watercooling. It's been done with a Celeron and a Duron, but can it be done with an Athlon?
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Hmmmm... Is the CPU die on a T-bird waterproof?
- Thread starter Slain
- Start date
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- Jan 23, 2001
I personally wouldnt even try it, just get the Swiftech MC462A...
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2001
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- Colorado/Chicago
I don't see why not. Then again, if you fry an Athlon, it's not my fault. 
If it worked with a Duron, I don't see why it wouldn't work with an Athlon. What were you thinking of using to cool it with?
If it worked with a Duron, I don't see why it wouldn't work with an Athlon. What were you thinking of using to cool it with?
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2001
- Location
- Boone, NC a.k.a THE BOONIES
the die is waterproof but the resisters and things on the surface would need to be sealed. i saw this in an article somewhere but don't remember where the guy tried to seal them with epoxy but when he was trying to shave off the exess epoxy he slipped and caught a resestor and ruined the chip
- Joined
- May 13, 2001
I dont think direct watercooling would do you any good. If my memory serves me correctly copper is a far better heat tranfer material than water. You need to get copper to conatct the core to spread the heat to a bigger area. Then the water or air is used to cool than area down. If the water is used directly, you might find a poor thermal flow due to the small area of contact. SO get a copper block and save yourself the pain and agony of a fried chip.
AnonymousDude
Disabled
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2000
A few comments.
Firstly, in recent undocumented testing I found direct die cooling to be twice as a effecient as the danger den cooler under on a duron, and about 1.5x better for a Tbird - both achievly the same overall C/W.
I have tried it with both athlons and durons with no problems.
And is it safe? Well I've been wondering about this so am currently conducting the following experiment. I took a duron 600, lapped all the epoxy off and sheered the side of it using a heatsink therefore letting all layers of silicon have water touching it. It's been running at 100% for the last 10 days solid 24.7 with no problems. I intend to run this for 2 months to fully know how safe it is (IMHO it is).
At the current stage in direct die cooling - i wouldn't recomend it to a newbie as the process of installing one is not really documented well (althought I know of 2 people other than me and surlyjoe who have tried it). As far as me chipping the resistors off and ruining the chip - that was probably the 4th time I had removed the cooler and got unlucky
I have had many successful removes and as I have done it more and more I have got the affiction just right that yo ucan't even tell there was ever one on there when it is removed!Colin is indeed right, just seal the SMD resitors and bridges and your away! If you need some help I'm here for you guys!
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- Mar 16, 2001
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- Lafayette, La.
You tell'em Spode
Break out that sunny-d bottle.
BTW
Are you useing and additives or just straight water? (anti-freeze, water wetter?)
Break out that sunny-d bottle.
BTW
Are you useing and additives or just straight water? (anti-freeze, water wetter?)
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2001
- Location
- Chicago, IL
Hey Spode, got any pics? What kind of waterblock do you use with direct die cooling?
W
William
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- Feb 2, 2001
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- Chicago, IL
Duh......I should have realized that one. Thanks.
AnonymousDude
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- Dec 17, 2000
I should use distilled water becuase, my area has rather hard water and from my last direct die I noticed limscale on the die! But I am changing things in exp. so much that I change the water so regurly that I have just gone back to tap water with a bit of washing up liquid!
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2001
You're forgetting one small detail.
Volume!
Enough water can quench the heat of lava almost instantaneously. No copper blocks required.
A tbird core is no match for a 500 GPH water pump and an efficient radiator. God help you if you get an air pocket in your water cavity though.
I've done this with PVC pipe caps and a Coppermine core. Worked well. The thing you absolutely positively must do is wait the full 24 hrs for the silicone to cure. The first time I became impatient and fired up the rig after only about 6 or 7 hours. Sure enough, I developed a leak around the silicone seal.
Volume!
Enough water can quench the heat of lava almost instantaneously. No copper blocks required.
A tbird core is no match for a 500 GPH water pump and an efficient radiator. God help you if you get an air pocket in your water cavity though.
I've done this with PVC pipe caps and a Coppermine core. Worked well. The thing you absolutely positively must do is wait the full 24 hrs for the silicone to cure. The first time I became impatient and fired up the rig after only about 6 or 7 hours. Sure enough, I developed a leak around the silicone seal.
That might be true if the copper block was directly connected to the CPU core, but its not. One of the largest ineffiencies in cooling is the connection between the block and the CPU. Remember AS is only about 8 w/mk as opposed to copper's 384 w/mk thermal transfer rate. The actual surface area that direct die cooling could touch would make it quite effienct.
Am i right on this one?
dew.
AnonymousDude
Disabled
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2000
yeah, the TIM is a dfeintet bottleneck. And as water is RUNNING uinlike copper which is still, this gives the effedct of loads of surface area.
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