How lenient is Newegg with RMA's?

[gangrene]

ok my mobo fried on me, due to *cough*overclocking*cough*
http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=251377

i never rma anything before. do you think newegg will send me another one? i wouldn't be mad if they didn't, just hopeful that they will, at least 50% credit.

 

[RoadWarrior]

you broke it you bought it.

 

[OSUmaxx]

You might want to poke around this forum to get a feel of what people think about people who RMA overclocked/fried gear. If you overclocked it and broke it, you bought it. It wasn't a manufacturer defect.

 

[{PMS}fishy]

RMA is for defectivte/DOA prodcut returns.

If you break it, its yours. People that do what you are planning on drive the prices up for the rest of us.

Think of it this way, if you buy a new car, and crash it 2 days later, and try to resturn it to the dealer saying its defectivte, they will laugh at you.

 

[deathstar13]

i wish YOU people who bash everyone who rma's stuff would stop.
if you look at the link he provided the mobo died of natural couses.it is designed to have over clocking features and that alone isnt enough by useing them to kill it.

he did no mods to the mobo i know of.and most likley is a scrambled bios which is GIGABYTES fault.
rma the mobo to newegg.
you fill out a online page and they email you a rma number and such.and you mail them the mobo.
isnt hard and is painless and i dont think ive seen newegg refuse to many rma's

NOW had he did a voltmod and that killed the mobo. yes the rma police would be correct.

btw welcome to oc.com and always duck before asking rma questions!

 

[gangrene]

thx deathstar


i can understand how some folks would see it as "you broke it you bought it". like i said in my original post, i don't expect it, just hopeful. what i do expect is at least a 50% credit for some salvage value, seeing how gigabyte prolly won't completly trash the mobo and re-salvage it one way or the other and prolly make some profit off of it too. there are still parts of the mobo that is still good, i highly doubt anyone who just spent over 100 dollars on a brand new mobo would just toss it in the dumpster after it isn't working for that person anymore, unless you're filthy rich, which unfortunetly i am not.

 

[{PMS}fishy]

i wish YOU people who bash everyone who rma's stuff would stop.
if you look at the link he provided the mobo died of natural couses.it is designed to have over clocking features and that alone isnt enough by useing them to kill it.

he did no mods to the mobo i know of.and most likley is a scrambled bios which is GIGABYTES fault.
rma the mobo to newegg.
you fill out a online page and they email you a rma number and such.and you mail them the mobo.
isnt hard and is painless and i dont think ive seen newegg refuse to many rma's

NOW had he did a voltmod and that killed the mobo. yes the rma police would be correct.

btw welcome to oc.com and always duck before asking rma questions!

Well if it is "scrambled bios" its not GIGABYTES flaut, its NVIDIA's as its a flaw in the chipset, not the implemintation of it. Everyone who buys a NF2 MB should know about the issues with it. Just because a product can O/C doesn't mean that the warranty covers it. Im going to go and look, and Ill let you know.

 

[I.M.O.G.]

WELCOME TO THE FORUMS!

The warranty doesn't cover overclocking. Choosing bad settings is the users fault and by RMA'ing the faulty component, they pass their cost off to the manufacturer or vendor, who then passes that cost of to US.

Why should anyone encourage RMA's for user error?

Seeing as how you are new to the forums gangrene, I hope you understand that there is good reason why people around here don't like RMA'ing fried components.

How sure are you that the mobo is dead? Perhaps replacing the bios can fix it. What kind of troubleshooting have you done? Have you swapped out the components into another rig? Have you atleast reset the CMOS? What happened when it quit working, how did it happen?

Though some people here will staunchly reject RMA'ing fried components, you will find that they will be very eager to help you trouble shoot the problem yourself.

Make sure you reset CMOS correctly:

So basically the jumper resetting is dependent upon your motherboards - some motherboards need the juice drained from the PS as well as shorting the jumper.

So this should work for everyone:

1) Turn off your powersupply.

2) Press the power button on your computer.

3) Short the jumper and put it back to it's original position.

4) Restart.

Steps 1 and 2 are not necessary for everyone - it depends on your mobo.

Follow this link and read if you want more discussion, my post I quoted is highlighted in RED there:

http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?s=&postid=2245063#post2245063

 

[deathstar13]

im definatly not gonna argue about this stuff.

did gangrene ask anyones advice if he was wrong in rma'ing it?NO
he asked how newegg handles the rma process,which of course noone answered except me.
it was rather jump him from behind tactics about ethics!

and yes the mobo is warrented if used within its operational perameters.

i do give imog credit for at least trying to help the situation by a possable fix.

im not giving my stance on this rma issue as it wasnt asked.
im definatly tired of seeing people being jumped and belittled.

 

[I.M.O.G.]

Reading his other thread, he did not try resetting CMOS correctly.

He removed the battery and put it back in. He needs to find his CMOS jumper and short it, simply removing the battery does not always work.

As for the people speaking against RMA'ing, I don't think they really went overboard and I think they are in line as this is an issue that indirectly affects them. In the future, their advice will carry more weight with people if they seem as though they are trying to help them, and not just criticize. I only mentioned it so that hopefully gangrene understands that the people here aren't A-holes, but they have atleast somewhat legitimate concerns with RMA'ing.

Gangrene: Please do as my quote says and report back if it makes any difference. It may or may not. Be sure to turn off the power supply, if you don't know how, just pull the plug out of the back of it. Then press the power button on your PC case to drain any power that is hiding in there. Then find the jumper and short it, if you don't know how to just say so and we can help. After shorting the jumper, return the jumper to its original position. Then turn the PSU back on and try to start up.

 

[deathstar13]

In the future, their advice will carry more weight with people if they seem as though they are trying to help them, and not just criticize.

amen bro!
i now see why you are a senoir.
level headed and think about all sides before posting.

heck this might even be one of the best discussions ive seen on this subject.

and yes the reset jumper can be tricky even when it is working correctly. ive seen mobos come to life several days after being pronounced dead.

 

[Maximouse]

Well if it is "scrambled bios" its not GIGABYTES flaut, its NVIDIA's as its a flaw in the chipset, not the implemintation of it. Everyone who buys a NF2 MB should know about the issues with it.

Well, if everyone who buys an NF2 MB should know about the issues with it, it stands to reason that anyone who builds and sells that type of board should know about the flaw in the chipset and assume the liability. Gigabyte should RMA it if it's just a corrupt bios.

Al

 

[I.M.O.G.]

and yes the reset jumper can be tricky even when it is working correctly. ive seen mobos come to life several days after being pronounced dead.

Exactly... I've seen it also and I've seen the same comments out of so many people around here who have been playing with their hardware for a long time.

People abuse their components over long periods of time around here, and inexplicable deaths are relatively rare IMO, and very rarely do they happen so quickly. That isn't to say it's not possible though.

Don't be too quick to announce your component's "time of death".

On another note, when can the bios be replaced using a bios repair kit? I have heard of people doing this, but I don't know when it's possible, or if it's only possible for certain boards?

If no one here knows I may take this to it's own thread.

I have seen someone comment that their bios kit only cost around $10, so it could be another solution that could even be cheaper if you have to pay shipping on the RMA.

 

[Maximouse]

Don't be too quick to announce your component's "time of death".

Gangrene's big mistake here was that he used the word "Fried" when referring to his problem. You see that word in a post and images of sparks and smoke pop up and they think of voltmodding and draw their conclusion accordingly.

Al

 

[gangrene]

Gangrene: Please do as my quote says and report back if it makes any difference. It may or may not. Be sure to turn off the power supply, if you don't know how, just pull the plug out of the back of it. Then press the power button on your PC case to drain any power that is hiding in there. Then find the jumper and short it, if you don't know how to just say so and we can help. After shorting the jumper, return the jumper to its original position. Then turn the PSU back on and try to start up.

i think i pretty much did everything already to try and reset the cmos. there is no reset cmos jumper on the mobo. i unplugged the power cord from back of comp, unplugged both atx power plugs, took out the battery, press the power button repeatly, then let it sit while everything was unplugged and the battery out for a good hour. put the battery back and re-plug everything into place and same thing, even tried holding down shift and insert while turning on. thx for the advice though

heh, i didn't think this thread would start a whole debate...

 

[I.M.O.G.]

I found this on repairing a damaged BIOS, perhaps there are better guides but if so I am not aware of them:

http://www.tokenasians.com/articles/bioshotswap.html

 

[gangrene]

Gangrene's big mistake here was that he used the word "Fried" when referring to his problem. You see that word in a post and images of sparks and smoke pop up and they think of voltmodding and draw their conclusion accordingly.

Al

my bad

i'll try using that word with caution next time

 

[I.M.O.G.]

i think i pretty much did everything already to try and reset the cmos. there is no reset cmos jumper on the mobo. i unplugged the power cord from back of comp, unplugged both atx power plugs, took out the battery, press the power button repeatly, then let it sit while everything was unplugged and the battery out for a good hour. put the battery back and re-plug everything into place and same thing, even tried holding down shift and insert while turning on. thx for the advice though

heh, i didn't think this thread would start a whole debate...

Every mobo has a jumper to reset CMOS. It should be listed in your motherboard manual and the jumper is usually relatively close to the battery you remove.

There are three pins where the jumper is. The jumper will be connecting two pins, and there will be a third pin that is open. You move the jumper over so it covers the middle pin and the pin that was previously open, then you move it back to its original position.

Can someone more familiar with this mobo confirm that it has a CMOS jumper?

EDIT: Just looked around and I guess this motherboard may not have a CMOS jumper - I found a review that said the GA-7VAXP had the silkscreen where the jumper would go, but no jumper.

 

[I.M.O.G.]

But this picture of gangrene's mobo seems to show the jumper. Click on the attachment to view the picture. I circled the spot below the battery where it says clear CMOS.

I suggest you take a look and see if you can locate that text below your CMOS battery, and confirm if the pins are there or not. It looks to me like you do have a jumper, but maybe you didn't find it.

 

[Maximouse]

But this picture of gangrene's mobo seems to show the jumper. Click on the attachment to view the picture. I circled the spot below the battery where it says clear CMOS.

I suggest you take a look and see if you can locate that text below your CMOS battery, and confirm if the pins are there or not. It looks to me like you do have a jumper, but maybe you didn't find it.

Even if the pins are not present he should be able to just short the two solder points with some wire.

Al