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How to overclock i7 4770k ?

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It's a bit much, but I hope it doesn't affect the heat transfer or something.
That's exactly the point, bud.

As mentioned earlier, mx-4 2019.

As far as another cooler, if temps aren't inclined, buying something better will help.

RE: Damage... no. It throttles to protect itself and if that doesn't work, there is a shutoff point above that.
 
Which one ?

View attachment 210836


Also, do you guys recommend a better cooler than the evo 212 ? I'm planning to buy some stuff to secure the part of OCing that the thermal paste or the cooler are the limitation to get a stable OC ?


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I have a concern, could I hurt the CPU when I have done a prime95 test and the temp hit 100 degrees on core 0 ?

Do both tubes contain the same amount of TIM? If so, go for the cheaper one.

If I were you, I would look at delidding that CPU rather than buying a bigger cooler. It is no secret that Intel used a poor quality TIM under the lid in that series that caused them to run hot. Delidding and replacing that bad TIM with liquid metal will likely shave off 10+ degrees from the max temp.
 
That's exactly the point, bud.

As mentioned earlier, mx-4 2019.

As far as another cooler, if temps aren't inclined, buying something better will help.

RE: Damage... no. It throttles to protect itself and if that doesn't work, there is a shutoff point above that.

Yep, well I don't know I'm thinking of delidding the CPU. Then the next step would be to buy a Corsair or any brand water cooler system.


Do both tubes contain the same amount of TIM? If so, go for the cheaper one.

If I were you, I would look at delidding that CPU rather than buying a bigger cooler. It is no secret that Intel used a poor quality TIM under the lid in that series that caused them to run hot. Delidding and replacing that bad TIM with liquid metal will likely shave off 10+ degrees from the max temp.

OK, when delidding the CPU, is the paste to between the chip and the cover the same to put between the CPU and the evo 212 ?

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Also do I need a silicon glue for the CPU cover ? I got this information from a Gamers Nexus video about delidding CPU.

Is this one OK ?
https://www.amazon.com/Halnziye-Con...92603895&sprefix=cpu+silicone+,aps,316&sr=8-1

It is mentioned that it's a conductive glue, is that a problem for CPU delidding ?
 
Yep, well I don't know I'm thinking of delidding the CPU. Then the next step would be to buy a Corsair or any brand water cooler system.




OK, when delidding the CPU, is the paste to between the chip and the cover the same to put between the CPU and the evo 212 ?

You can use the same paste but the temp improvement will be very limited unless you put liquid metal TIM under the lid. Liquid metal transfers heat much better than conventional thermal grease. But you will still want to use the conventional on the top side. Using liquid metal on top can be dangerous since it is not contained and when you pull off a cooler the liquid metal flakes can lodge in other places on the motherbord. The biggest need is to improve the heat transfer under the lid between the CPU die and the IHS because that is such a small contact area. Using liquid metal (aka, LM) on the top side may lower temps a couple of degrees but not a big effect.

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Also do I need a silicon glue for the CPU cover ? I got this information from a Gamers Nexus video about delidding CPU.
No, you will not need silicone glue. Most folks just place the lid back on and it will be held in place by the socket clamp. But you would want to apply LM to both the top of the CPU die and the underside of the IHS. I would not use silicone glue to refasten the lid for another reason. It puts a layer of material between the PCB and the IHS perimeter, thereby creating more of gap between the IHS and the CPU die. I.E, it raises it up off the PCB a little and doesn't give as good a contact between the underside of the IHS (Integrated Heat Spreader) and the top of the CPU die.

Is this one OK ?
https://www.amazon.com/Halnziye-Con...92603895&sprefix=cpu+silicone+,aps,316&sr=8-1

It is mentioned that it's a conductive glue, is that a problem for CPU delidding ?

Here's what you need:

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI

https://www.amazon.com/OwlTree-Deli...d=1592612907&sprefix=CPU+delid,aps,211&sr=8-4

You would also need a plastic credit card and use the edge to scrape off the old glue Intel secured the IHS to the PCB with. And Isopropyl alcohol to act as a cleaner and solvent. It's important to do a good job of getting that old glue off the PCB, the edges and the underside of the IHS.
 
As trents says, use thermal grizzly or coolaboratory paste for die/IHS and regular TIM for IHS/HSF (as liquid metal TIM can be hell to clean off...).

Edit: I second trents again here. Delidding my 4780k/4770k's lowered the temps on load from 15 to 20c through all cores.

On another hand, don't expect more than a couple of hundred extra MHz either. As when you reach the edge vcore wise, temps skyrocket.
 
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OK, I added the thermal past and the liquid metal to the cart.

Is the delidding tool necessary ? Because I watched videos on YouTube that delidded the CPU without a delidding tool.



You would also need a plastic credit card and use the edge to scrape off the old glue Intel secured the IHS to the PCB with.

I have mobile phone tools.

And Isopropyl alcohol to act as a cleaner and solvent. It's important to do a good job of getting that old glue off the PCB, the edges and the underside of the IHS.

How about perfumes ? Would that work ?

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(as liquid metal TIM can be hell to clean off...).

You mean if I put the liquid metal between the cooler and the CPU cover ?



On another hand, don't expect more than a couple of hundred extra MHz either.

Do you mean with the same clock setting ?

Like now I returned my profile to 3.9GHz, so with the same speed and when I delid the CPU, do you mean that there is a speed improvement with temperature decreasing ?

Or you mean that with the same voltages I can OC the CPU couple MHz and maintaining voltages amount with decreased temps ?

As when you reach the edge vcore wise, temps skyrocket.

Also didn't got the idea here ! what you mean ? do you mean that OCing a bit can increases temps so much ?
 
OK, I added the thermal past and the liquid metal to the cart.

Is the delidding tool necessary ? Because I watched videos on YouTube that delidded the CPU without a delidding tool.

It's not necessary but much safer and easier. Believe me, for a few dollars it's well worth it.



I have mobile phone tools.



How about perfumes ? Would that work ?

I doubt it and would probably leave residues behind. Is rubbing alcohol hard to get in your country?

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You mean if I put the liquid metal between the cooler and the CPU cover ?

That's what he means.





Do you mean with the same clock setting ?

Like now I returned my profile to 3.9GHz, so with the same speed and when I delid the CPU, do you mean that there is a speed improvement with temperature decreasing ?

It means that lower temps is nice but will not necessarily do much for you as far as increasing the overclock frequency.

Or you mean that with the same voltages I can OC the CPU couple MHz and maintaining voltages amount with decreased temps ?

Possibly, but no guarantee.



Also didn't got the idea here ! what you mean ? do you mean that OCing a bit can increases temps so much ?

Overclocking (increasing the frequency) involves increasing the voltage to the CPU to support the higher frequency. Raising voltage raises temps. Every notch of frequency increase will need more voltage than the previous one to be stable. At some point you hit a wall where you either run out of temp headroom or more voltage will not allow you to to achieve one more notch of stable frequency increase.
 
My opinion:
Kudos to the gentlemen trying to help you but.................
If you cannot understand guidance to overclock and proper testing procedures, don't even consider delidding your CPU.
You are already in over your head.
Set that thing on optimized defaults and just walk away and enjoy your gaming.
 
My opinion:
Kudos to the gentlemen trying to help you but.................
If you cannot understand guidance to overclock and proper testing procedures, don't even consider delidding your CPU.
You are already in over your head.
Set that thing on optimized defaults and just walk away and enjoy your gaming.

It's not that I can't understand, it's just a matter of time until I understand the basics of OCing the CPU.

+ I'm really happy that people like trents and EarthDog are helping me. I like to learn and I enjoy tweaking my hardware.

But you could be right, the stutters I get in Borderlands 3 don't happen in other games, so it could be that there's something in the game's files.

Also, I actually have put the delidding stuff in my Amazon's cart.

I don't know actually .. I was excited to delid the CPU but you now put me in revising my thoughts state :)

I really don't have a big performance problem in my gaming, but I want to test some performance improvement, some times I get drops in intense events playing a heavy game .. but overall my gaming experience is OK.

But you can imagine the intentions that drove me to starting OCing my CPU I really have thought of that a lot of times and also you can imagine that I have this rig since 2014 and during this time I actually tried to OC my rig but didn't succeed so it's like I postponed the OCing or maybe tried to forget about it.
 
First things first. If you want to get the most out of that cooler, you need to work on your mount. Because the pipes aren't seated in the base nicely, you'll probably want to get some paste in between those cracks. Once everything looks good, go ahead and put a straight line of TIM down the center of your CPU. Before you clamp it rotate slightly to the left and right and then clamp it down. Like a titty twister. As it stands right now, it sounds like you are maxed out, held back by temps. If you can get a better transfer between your CPU and HSF you could squeeze another couple hundred MHz from it.
 
First things first. If you want to get the most out of that cooler, you need to work on your mount. Because the pipes aren't seated in the base nicely,

Which pipes ? and how did you know they are not seated nicely ?


you'll probably want to get some paste in between those cracks.

Which cracks ? Seriously :) I'm not American and not so much into computer common terms.

Once everything looks good, go ahead and put a straight line of TIM down the center of your CPU.

How about the curly one I did recently ? :) It's good it's maybe a bit much but my temps are the same as before.



Before you clamp it rotate slightly to the left and right and then clamp it down. Like a titty twister.

I did that.

As it stands right now, it sounds like you are maxed out held back by temps.

What does it mean that I'm maxed out ? In which part ? :) I'm really sorry I just don't get these phrases so often :)


If you can get a better transfer between your CPU and HSF you could squeeze another couple hundred MHz from it.

Yep that's what I'm trying to do. I'm thinking of delidding but famous tech people on YouTube, some encourage the results and some said it is not worth the risk like in this video @8:10 he said it's not worth it:


Also, Gamers Nexus in:

Back to Reality: The 9900K Delid & Liquid Metal

@9:15 but I think his opinion is specifically targeted to 9900k OCing.




........... so if I want to void delidding my CPU then I just have to change the thermal paste, buy a water cooling system or just stay with the optimized turbo 3.9GHz speed.
 
Did you mean to say "avoid" instead of "void"? Or are you talking about voiding the CPU's warranty?

I have delidded a number of CPUs and never had a problem. You just need to be careful. The two critical safety points are removing the lid (not an issue if you use a tool like I linked) and applying the LM TIM. You don't want to slop LM over onto the components surrounding the die or you will risk a short. Some people tape them off like if you were painting a house and don't want to get the wall color onto the trim. Remove the tape, of course after you are done with applying. Others coat the surrounding components with clear coat nail polish which can be left in place.
 
I meant to say gaps between the pipes, at the base.. my 212 has them because it’s extra ****ty. My phone has been experimenting with unauthorized autocorrect lately and it’s annoying af. Good luck and have fun.
 
freeagent, I was responding to what OP had posted in #51: "........... so if I want to void delidding my CPU then I just have to change the thermal paste, buy a water cooling system or just stay with the optimized turbo 3.9GHz speed."
 
Did you mean to say "avoid" instead of "void"? Or are you talking about voiding the CPU's warranty?

I meant like forgetting about going with delidding the CPU. For the warranty it's 3 years and of course I passed the period, this CPU is in my rig since 2014.


I have delidded a number of CPUs and never had a problem. You just need to be careful.

Yep, what I understood is that I have to use a sharp tool to get into the edges of the IHS and that's it and try not to push it inside or there's a chance I knock of some SMD parts.

The two critical safety points are removing the lid (not an issue if you use a tool like I linked) and applying the LM TIM. You don't want to slop LM over onto the components surrounding the die or you will risk a short.

This one I agree with you it could be a sensitive one, but I'm thinking that I just have to focus on the middle part as I watched people doing it on YouTube, so it won't be so hard to put the LM on the black part and the inner part of the IHS that is exactly facing the black part.

Some people tape them off like if you were painting a house and don't want to get the wall color onto the trim. Remove the tape, of course after you are done with applying. Others coat the surrounding components with clear coat nail polish which can be left in place.

I don't know if I really need to do any of this, I would try to be precise otherwise, there's should be some taping.

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I meant to say gaps between the pipes, at the base.. my 212 has them because itÂ’s extra ****ty. My phone has been experimenting with unauthorized autocorrect lately and itÂ’s annoying af. Good luck and have fun.

Yeah I think I mounted the EVO 212 nicely and as I believe really good, I can take a picture of you.

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freeagent, I was responding to what OP had posted in #51: "........... so if I want to void delidding my CPU then I just have to change the thermal paste, buy a water cooling system or just stay with the optimized turbo 3.9GHz speed."

Yeah I think I used the word "void" not very accurately. It's to me like "avoid", because I'm not a native English speaker.

So what I understood that "void" means like "no", so voiding delidding means that I cancel the delidding whole process of starting and finishing it.

And "avoid" would be like canceling the delidding "idea" in the first place !! :) I don't know .. these are the meanings I have in my mind right now.
 
There are many variations and no one right way. Just make sure you coat both the top of the CPU die and the underside of the lid with LM. Use no LM more than it takes to get good coverage.

By the way you can literally immerse the CPU in alcohol after you remove the lid. I don't mean leave it in to soak by you can dip in and splash the alcohol on it. It won't hurt it and can help in removing the old glue. Alcohol is also great if you need to wash the TIM off for a redo if necessary.
 
There are many variations and no one right way. Just make sure you coat both the top of the CPU die and the underside of the lid with LM. Use no LM more than it takes to get good coverage.

By the way you can literally immerse the CPU in alcohol after you remove the lid. I don't mean leave it in to soak by you can dip in and splash the alcohol on it. It won't hurt it and can help in removing the old glue. Alcohol is also great if you need to wash the TIM off for a redo if necessary.

Oh yeah you asked me about alcohol before and I forgot to tell you that I think it's hard in our country to get pure alcohol even from the pharmacy. But I can buy medical alcohol wipes, I think it would do.


I have put in my cart these stuff:
1. Star brite Liquid Electrical Tape - LET Black 1 oz Tube
2. Arctic MX-4 4G 2019 EDITION/ACTCP00002B 2019 Edition Thermal Compound (4.0 g)
3. Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Liquid Metal Thermal Paste, 1g
4. OwlTree CPU Delid Tool to Remove Cover for 3770K 4770k 4790K 6700K E3-1230 7700K 8700K 115x (delid)

My question here:
Can I use the first item to cover the components near the CPU instead of the nail polish ? Or I better cancel this one and just buy a nail polish that has the nitrocellulose as mentioned in this video @10:40 ?

 
You want to use something on the components surrounding the die that provides electrical insulation but that doesn't trap too much heat, I would think. So something that you can apply in a thin coat. The liquid electrical tape I am not familiar with but that would be my concern not knowing how thick a layer it would produce.

Why is alcohol so scarce in your country? Come to think of it, I remember other forum users from your area saying the same thing. Is it because there is not much agriculture to make it from, like corn?
 
You want to use something on the components surrounding the die that provides electrical insulation but that doesn't trap too much heat, I would think. So something that you can apply in a thin coat. The liquid electrical tape I am not familiar with but that would be my concern not knowing how thick a layer it would produce.

Yep a small amount would do; like the one in the video.

Why is alcohol so scarce in your country? Come to think of it, I remember other forum users from your area saying the same thing. Is it because there is not much agriculture to make it from, like corn?

If they sell pure alcohol in bottles, then that would be a complete disaster because people would prepare alcoholic drinks of it ! As alcohol is completely prohibited in Saudi Arabia; just used and sold in medical products, perfumes, and similar stuff.
 
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