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How to use phase change system?

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Metalloid15

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Joined
Jan 13, 2003
I understand how the phase change setup works. But what do you do with the Evaporator pipes? My best guess is that you submerge the pipes in a water resevoir and then just run a normal water cooling system, but correct me if I am wrong.
 
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Metalloid15

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Jan 13, 2003
Direct die can kill your CPU faster correct? How much of a temperature difference would there be between these three options?
1. Direct Die phase change
2. 226w Pelt
3. Phase change chilling the water and then a standar wc setup.
 

mirko_3

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Joined
Oct 27, 2002
Location
Italy
direct die won't kill your cpu faster, but it is much riskier; if it doesn't kill your cpu right away, that probably means that it's mounted correctly and will never kill your cpu...
 

nealric

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Sep 9, 2002
Location
under the floorboards
I dont think direct die is any more or less dangerous than any other low temp solutions- the basic resks are the same.

As far as temps.

Direct die below zero c, can go almost infinitely low

226w pelt will probably put you in the teens

chilled water depends on the power of your chiller- anywhere from -20 to 20c - or worse if the chiller cant handle the load.

water- a few degrees above ambient- 30 degree range.
 
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Metalloid15

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Jan 13, 2003
Well I might as well go all of the way if I am going to do it (too bad I already bought the copper to make my waterblocks and coldplates!!! $36 down the drain). Can anyone get me some good info on setting up a direct die system?
 
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Metalloid15

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Jan 13, 2003
And Nealric I think I know what you mean about the risks being the same. If there isn't good contact, no matter what form of cooling you are using, your CPU is toast. And the only other consideration is condensation, which by the way I have no idea how to do when it comes to direct die.
 

nealric

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Joined
Sep 9, 2002
Location
under the floorboards
Well have no fear about the copper- you can make a good phase change block with that too (an evaporator) :D- It just needs to hold a vacum.

As far as condensation is concerned- search the forums- theres been tons of threads on that.
 

aenigma

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2002
nealric said:
It just needs to hold a vacum.

A vacuum isn't a pressure test, to test your evaporator you have pressurize it a good margin above maximum equalized pressure for your system.For instance at an average room temperature using propane your system will equalize at or below the vapor pressure of propane, about 125psi.That is only if there is liquid in the system, so chances are actual equalized pressure will be below the vapor pressure.
 
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Metalloid15

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Jan 13, 2003
Anyone have any good guides on how to make an evaporator out of a solid piece of copper? I really have no idea where the best place to get parts is, besides ripping them out of an old fridge. How powerful of a compressor do I need?
 
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Metalloid15

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Jan 13, 2003
Also, a coolant with a lower boiling point is more effecient correct? But it needs a stronger compressor to get it to liquid state. And that would require my block to be able to stand more pressure. Correct?