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How to water cool GTX 980 4GB WINDFORCE 3X OC

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HoneyCentaur

New Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2016
Hi guys I am a pretty experienced with PC builder but watercooling has me stumped. I'm not quite sure what items I would need to water cool a GTX 980 4GB WINDFORCE 3X OC (GV-N980WF3OC-4GD) :confused: and dont even know where to start for a water block (is i think i need?)

Any help is appreciated, Thanks

*UPDATE*

Ok the parts I have chosen are:

Compression fitting: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bi7cofifor5o.html

Pump: http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35512vdcpump.aspx

Radiator/Reservoir: http://www.swiftech.com/mcrx20-qp.aspx#tab3 (triple 120mm)

Tubing: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2..._Clear_Tubing.html?tl=g30c99s1615&id=ys9XaDPf

PT Nuke: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/peptpcobi1.html

Case: http://www.scorptec.com.au/product/...CUrqh34JajE-CtAIHs-LTDPpIGZS36xZHoaAvHt8P8HAQ (will these parts work with the case?)

P.S. I couldnt find a waterblock for my GPU
 
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t1nm4n

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2005
Location
Texas
Start here, It's a great place to start. Gives you a good idea of the items you will need and gets you on track to planning your loop. From there you can go to several different online retailers of water-cooling parts, and start to price things. If your in the US PPCS is about he only around anymore, might not get items shipped that day, but they've always had items shipped the next business day, so I've found them pretty good there.

btw, welcome to the forums, hope you find what your looking for and when in doubt, ask more questions, I know I have asked a bunch and they haven't kicked me out yet.
 

Llyndis

Registered
Joined
Jan 3, 2016
Make sure you read all the beginner guides. It is very important to thoroughly Clean your components before finalizing your loop. Also do not use dye. If you want color get colored tubing.
 

GTXJackBauer

Water Cooling Senior Member, #TEAMH20HNO
Joined
May 22, 2011
Location
USA
Start here, It's a great place to start. Gives you a good idea of the items you will need and gets you on track to planning your loop. From there you can go to several different online retailers of water-cooling parts, and start to price things. If your in the US PPCS is about he only around anymore, might not get items shipped that day, but they've always had items shipped the next business day, so I've found them pretty good there.

btw, welcome to the forums, hope you find what your looking for and when in doubt, ask more questions, I know I have asked a bunch and they haven't kicked me out yet.

Make sure you read all the beginner guides. It is very important to thoroughly Clean your components before finalizing your loop. Also do not use dye. If you want color get colored tubing.

+1
 
OP
H

HoneyCentaur

New Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2016
Ok the parts I have chosen are:

Compression fitting: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bi7cofifor5o.html

Pump: http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35512vdcpump.aspx

Radiator/Reservoir: http://www.swiftech.com/mcrx20-qp.aspx#tab3 (triple 120mm)

Tubing: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2..._Clear_Tubing.html?tl=g30c99s1615&id=ys9XaDPf

PT Nuke: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/peptpcobi1.html

Case: http://www.scorptec.com.au/product/...CUrqh34JajE-CtAIHs-LTDPpIGZS36xZHoaAvHt8P8HAQ (will these parts work with the case?)

P.S. I couldnt find a waterblock for my GPU

- - - Updated - - -

im fine with no dye or any type of fancy tubing,but if there is any type of green tubing that you could recommend for a razer fanboy like me that'd be great.
 

Soulcatcher668

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2012
Use THIS to find your block.

I think you could order direct from there but a short search found THIS reseller in Australia. Double check that I linked the correct block.
 

t1nm4n

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2005
Location
Texas
It seemed like there were several companies in Australia, or if that's Austria you have some European choices.

Couple things, now that we have gotten into parts of the plan here's were more people can help you out, only found one company that makes a Block for that particular GPU, its EKWB.com, you can find their products at nearly every online retailer that sells anything water-cooling related. No clue about the fittings, never used compression, hear they are great so long as you don't use a super-soft tubing. That brings me to the tubing choice you made, I would avoid plain PVC tubing cause even with using just plain distilled water, over time it will leech out the plasticizer in the tubing and turn everything whitish and could clog your rads or blocks.

Evil-Mobo hit the nail on the head with the same tubing I was looking at.

That's a good lil pump, I have the dual top PWM version of that getting water through my loop, was overkill, but if a pump fails while I'm away then I have that piece of mind it wont stop working, I let mine do the [email protected] 24/7.

Not really sure you need the PTNuke, I've really found just plain distilled water and a couple of the Kill coils, I got these, same principal, but I figure as long and you do your best to clean everything before you put it together and get any dirt debris out of the parts you are starting off with a pretty clean loop that not much of anything can grow in to begin with. Opinions will differ greatly here. I'm still not too sure that all dyes are the enemy, but I'll concede enough that I won't be using any in my loop anytime in the near future, lol. Wise choice in avoiding them to start off with.

That case will look sick with that tubing in it, should be plenty of room to add two radiators I'd do some more research to be sure though, so that if you wanted to add the cpu later on you can. I haven't looked much at that reservoir/radiator before, I went with a separated res, just seemed to fit my case better. Not sure there is one radiator better than the rest, people have their personal choices, as for how much rad you will need, that's a different story. I believe most would say a 120.2 or 240mm rad will be sufficient if your just cooling that gpu and not doing anything super serious with it, just gaming and regular work loads, if your Overclocking then that might be a different story. I say if a 360mm rad will fit with room to spare and its not outside your budget go with it, more rad space means you have a larger supply of cooling potential for Overclocking or you can run your fans a lil slower for the ultimate quiet experience. Of course this is all dependant on what your plans/needs/wants are. If you already have the case than that make measuring so much easier, I think Fry's electronics was ready to ban me from ever coming into their store again with a tape measure, at one point.

When all is said and done you will have yourself a nice looking system that you shouldn't have to worry about overheating under most circumstances that probably runs a lot quieter than it ever had before, but I think the Bling factor is what drove me more than anything.

finally finished2.jpg

Must forgive the dust, I doubt anything will stop that from getting in your system, but that's what it looks like after a solid 6 months of 24/7 use..
 
OP
H

HoneyCentaur

New Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2016
Thanks for the feedback, didn't mind it being quite verbose, I had a look at the tubing evil-mobo recommend before and ill go with that and will change the plans to a dual rad with a separate reservoir,http://www.swiftech.com/mcresmicrorev2reservoir.aspx the GPU block is the last thing i'm not sure about I found the correct one (Vga Fullcover?) but it has 2 options acetal and acetal + nickle do they make any difference? https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/upload/pictures/EK-FC980-GTX-WF3_NA_front_800.jpg (Acetal + nickle)
https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/upload/pictures/EK-FC980-GTX-WF3_NP_front_800.jpg (Acetal)

Thanks

- - - Updated - - -

Yep that was the correct one thank you!
 

Evil-Mobo

Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2015
Location
MD
Acetal is copper on the side that contacts the GPU the other is nickel plated copper on that same side. So brass look or chrome look basically :)
 

Soulcatcher668

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2012
Acetal is copper on the side that contacts the GPU the other is nickel plated copper on that same side. So brass look or chrome look basically :)

Not really.

Both blocks are nickel plated copper. So they are shiny on the side that contacts the gpu.

The block listed as just nickel has a clear cover (pobably polycarbonate).
Nickel.jpg

The Nickel Acetal uses an Acetal cap (the common name is Delrin).
Delrin.jpg

The Acetal is a stronger material and will not crack when you install fittings.
They will function the same once installed.
 

Evil-Mobo

Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2015
Location
MD
Not really.

Both blocks are nickel plated copper. So they are shiny on the side that contacts the gpu.

The block listed as just nickel has a clear cover (pobably polycarbonate).
View attachment 174018

The Nickel Acetal uses an Acetal cap (the common name is Delrin).
View attachment 174019

The Acetal is a stronger material and will not crack when you install fittings.
They will function the same once installed.

Nickel plexi is the clear top cover.

This is Acetal + Nickel:
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc980-gtx-acetal-nickel

Please look at the pictures so you see what I am explaining.

This is just Acetal:
https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc980-gtx-acetal

As you can see the copper not nickel plated on the Acetal "model" and the nickel plated copper on the Acetal + Nickel.

:thup:
 

Soulcatcher668

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2012
But those are the wrong blocks for his card.

He needs either of these blocks.
His card.JPG

The choices are 'Nickel' or 'Acetal Nickel'

You are correct on the blocks you are talking about but not these ones.

Nickel new.JPG

:thup:
 

Evil-Mobo

Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2015
Location
MD
Because there isn't an Acetal only for his card. I get that. I was simply explaining the difference in the descriptions he was asking about. If you look at the entire EK line of blocks, CPU, GPU, etc, you will how my explanation is correct and makes sense.

:thup:
 

Soulcatcher668

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2012
Ahh.... I see the confusion.

I had looked up the cards previously and knew there was no strait 'Acetal' block.

The confusion lies in HoneyCentaur asking about something not available for their build.

So we are both right lol.


@HoneyCentaur. You must be very specific when using that EK setup tool. Make sure your model number matches correctly. Not all 980 blocks will fit on your card.
 

Evil-Mobo

Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2015
Location
MD
Ahh.... I see the confusion.

I had looked up the cards previously and knew there was no strait 'Acetal' block.

The confusion lies in HoneyCentaur asking about something not available for their build.

So we are both right lol.

Precisely I was never trying to argue anything with you :thup:
 
OP
H

HoneyCentaur

New Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2016
Thanks

- - - Updated - - -

are you syaing that the blocks I have chosen wont work with my gpu? because thats what came up when i put in my model number
 
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Soulcatcher668

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2012
Thanks

- - - Updated - - -

are you syaing that the blocks I have chosen wont work with my gpu? because thats what came up when i put in my model number

If you look at my post #15, it lists the block that will fit your card. The Pics you linked in your post appear to be right but have no part numbers so I can not be 100% sure.

The confusion came about because you asked the difference between acetal and acetal + nickle when your choices were between nickel and acetal + nickel.

Either of the blocks will work.
 
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