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I need help...Please!

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Mass_Hysteria

Registered
Joined
May 27, 2001
I just got my dangerden watercooling kit in today. I have it installed with no leaks. That's where the good news ends. When I turned my computer on I went into the bios expecting to see a big difference from the zalman heatsink I replaced which ran at about 41C. The problem is it got up to 47C and was still rising. I can't even boot into windows without downclocking my 1.2ghz athlon to 950mhz. This sucks. I really need some pointers here. This is what I have done so far.
I have removed and reseated the waterblock twice. I have disconnected the return line to the pump, submersed the pump in a container and ran it that way to make sure I was getting water flow. I don't know what else to do. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

TIA
 

Thelemac

Administratively Deficient
Joined
Mar 15, 2001
Well, a bit more info would help, such as inline or resevoir?

Hm...if it's inline, make sure you have a bleed/fill line, and make sure that you have left it running enough before you put it in to make sure most of the air is out of the system.

I'm assuming you have the Maze-2 and the Cooling Cube. You ARE using fans to cool the water, right? Where in you case is the radiator located? What kind of pump do you have?

Are you sure you properly applied ASII?

Hm...on a side note, what are you using for your coolant?
 
OP
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Mass_Hysteria

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Joined
May 27, 2001
I am using an inline filter but I have removed the feedline from the pump, totally submersed the pump in a canister and am running the pump like a submersible right now. i am using the watter wetter solution provided by dangerden. I am using a rio180 pump. I have applied the arctic silver in a really thin layer. Etc. I hope to god I have messed something up somewhere.
 
W

William

Guest
ok, well some stupid stuff first. Do you have a fan on the radiator? Have you bled all the air from your system by using an open container with two hose ends in it to bleed all the air out? Are you using for now just pure water and not something like 50/50 water and antifreeze or something exotic like alcohol. I think though, that system really just needs a half a day to bleed all the air especially out of the radiator and the block.
 

Thelemac

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Joined
Mar 15, 2001
Mass_Hysteria (May 30, 2001 12:02 a.m.):
I am using an inline filter but I have removed the feedline from the pump, totally submersed the pump in a canister and am running the pump like a submersible right now. i am using the watter wetter solution provided by dangerden. I am using a rio180 pump. I have applied the arctic silver in a really thin layer. Etc. I hope to god I have messed something up somewhere.

You're not using straight Water Wetter, are you? That would be bad. Um, I hate to say this, but your pump leaves something to be desired. Haven't heard much good about the RIOs. Air shouldn't be a problem set up like that...do you have the plumbing set up like this: pump, radiator, cpu, pump (res.)? If not, try that. That'll get the heat from the pump out of the water before it goes to the cpu. You are returning the water to the res, right? Not that that would affect cooling, I just think it's a good idea. I'm sure you are.

Really need some info on your radiator, as this is really where most of the cooling takes place. Please post with that info. I really wanna see this working well for you.

Oh, I completely for to ask. What was your system temp before you added water and after?
 
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Mass_Hysteria

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May 27, 2001
I am using the dangerden cooling cube with a 120mm high output panaflo. I am using the 1oz to 1 qt ratio of watter wetter. This is retarded.
 
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Mass_Hysteria

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May 27, 2001
Update. The tempsseem to have leveled off at 113F (45C). The problem is that temp is higher than what I was getting with my zalman heatsink at 104F (41C). You can't tell me that I spent 200$ on a system that works worse than an air cooled zalman. Please help me get this fixed.
 

Ridenow

Sneaky Moderator
Joined
Apr 17, 2001
Location
Springfield, IL
You should have your water input on the bottom of the radiator. If you have it on the top then with the weaker pumps you get a trickle running through air pockets. If it is on the bottom it fills the tubes for better heat exchange. I do not know if this will help, it is just an idea.
 
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Mass_Hysteria

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May 27, 2001
I'll give that a shot when I get home. What is really weird is that the wateer is ice cold coming out of the return hose and it is coming through at a pretty decent clip. Even the waterblock is cold to the touch.
 
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Mass_Hysteria

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May 27, 2001
After reseating the waterblock and fiddling around I have it down to 40C (104F) which is right where the zalman was performing. Shouldn't I be getting better cooling from this system though????
 

ken257

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2000
From everything that has been said so far I suspect that the waterblock is not seated properly. Apply only a very thin layer of AS. I use a small peice of flexible plastic, put a drop of AS on it and make a swipe across the core to put a paper thin layer on. Make sure when you tighten the block down that you do it evenly. Measure the distance the nuts are screwed on to insure that you have even preasure on the springs. Also make sure that it is tighened down enough to compress the 4 feet on the cpu so that it makes good contact with the core.
 
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Mass_Hysteria

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May 27, 2001
ken...thanks for the advice. I was reluctant on over tightening the block but I tightened it down a bit more and low and behold full load temps went from 111 to 104. Should I tighten them any further or now that it is making contact should I stop?
 

proze

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2000
Location
Pretoria, RSA
that's the worst thing about waterblocks.. you don't know when they're tight enough. i'm afraid it's more or less a "tighten until you dare not tighten any more" sort of thing.. at least with heatsinks you just clip it and it's sorted.
 

ken257

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2000
If you tighten it down more be carefull, the springs should not be fully compressed. I replaced the nuts on the top with knurled brass thumb screws this makes it much easier to "feel" what you are doing.

You are not going to get temps a lot better then with a top notch HSF because the limitation is still the ambient temp. What you will gain is an increase in the amount of heat that can be dissapated. This gives you more headroom when you start cranking up the cpu and especially if you do a vmod.

The best fail safe setup I have seen is the Swiftech. It has stand-offs that screw onto the mobo. Then you just tighten the bolts(spring loaded) until they bottom out in the stand-offs and you have the right amount of preassure every time.