Is this all I need for liquid cooling? And is it good enough?

[3361]

Okay, I'm building an OP computer, and I'm going to be using a lot of money on liquid cooling. I will probably be overclocking if it becomes necessary in the future. I'm using my computer a lot, I'm pretty much using it everyday from when I get home from school to I go to bed. I usually do a lot of things that are CPU and GPU heavy, so it will probably get quite warm. So, I hope this liquid cooling will be great with the build I'm making atm.



Radiators:
Black Ice GTX Xtreme 240 Radiator
Black Ice GTX Xtreme 480 Radiator


Reservoir + pumps:
Koolance RP-401X2 Single 5.25" Reservoir w/ 2 PWM Pumps Installed (Rev 1.1)

(going to have 2 pumps in one loop, I guess I'm using this (Koolance 180-Degree Connector for RP-401X2) for that.


Fans:
Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-3 120mmx25mm Ultra Silent Bionic Blade Fan - 1900 RPM - 26.5 dBA


EDIT: GPU water block:
EVGA GeForce GTX 680 Classified Hydro Copper Waterblock

CPU water block:
EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Full Nickel (EK-Supremacy - Full Nickel)


Dual GPU connector:
Koolance Dual VID Connector - Adjustable 2-3 Slot Spacing


Liquid:
XSPC EC6 High Perfromance Liquid Cooling Premix Coolant - 2L


Tubes:
14 meters XSPC High Flex PVC Tubing - 1/2" ID (3/4"OD)


Nozzles:
Koolance 1/2" x 3/4" (13mm x 19mm) G1/4 Threaded Compression Nozzle



What kind of loop would be better? CPU - 240mm rad - GPUs -480mm rad? or GPU - 480mm rad - CPU - 240mm rad?

I think I'm going to be using the AZZA Genesis 9000, since the support at coolermaster said I couldn't use a 360mm rad with their Cosmos 2. And I don't really want the Cosmos 2 anyways. But do you guys recommend another chassis for a 240 and a 360/480mm rad?

Price matters to some extent, but I'll take a look at your suggestions no matter what it costs.

Is there anything more I need? Do you need anymore info?

 

[Conumdrum]

Take a look at our stickies up top for recommendations on liquid. Not a bad list. The stickies will guide you to some better choices,. In short, the list is okay, could use some tweaking. You'll learn a lot in the stickies up top for sure.

 

[3361]

Ok, thanks for your response (would like some more people to respond too though)


So, I read through the stickies, and there's a lot of GREAT information there, which I probably wouldn't have read if it wasn't for you, so again, thanks

Great information for a newbie like me. I didn't read everything, but I read quickly through a lot of it. The only thing I noticed that I should change, was the liquid. I should use distilled water, and I will.
Alphacool Ultra Pure Water - 2L



Is there any specific thread you recommend I read? Or?

 

[EarthDog]

I'm wondering why two pumps. You have two rads in there, and two blocks, that pump should be fine with that setup.

EDIT: Wait, are you cooling 2 GPU's? I see a connector but not the blocks?

 

[skorpien]

Distilled water is the kind you buy at your local grocery store. That Alphacool Ultra Pure Water is just overpriced and will not perform any better (probably worse if there's additives in there) than distilled water. You may need to use deionized water if distilled isn't readily available in your area, but distilled/deionized water and a biocide (PHN Nuke or .999 Silver killcoil or both) is all you need.

 

[3361]

I added the GPU waterblocks now. I was originally going to buy a card with a pre-installed waterblock, then I saw that they stopped selling that one on frozencpu, so I'll just be buying the block, backplate, and card separately.

 

[3361]

I'm not sure if we can buy distilled water here, not sure what it's even called in Norwegian lol, but google translate can help me there (a lot of ppl say google translate sucks, and, well, yes, it does, but not if you're just going to find the meaning of one word).

Anyways, there are no additives in the water (not as far as I can see from the description anyways)


Description:
This extremely pure water made just for Alphacool directly from a high-grade reverse osmosis system.
Cleaned with 5 special filters (one of which is a special reverse osmosis filter) the water is absolutely free of salts, metals and contaminants which are in tap water. The treatment removes virtually any contaminants and unwanted substances in the water.

Hence the water leaves no stains when evaporating and no lime scale deposits form.

Made in Germany.



Features:

Virtually completely electrically non-conductive and absolutely contaminant-free (< 0,1µS/cm, approx 100 times less than in standard distilled water)

Bacteria and algae contamination is greatly suppressed

No limescale or other residues if evaporated

*Without any additives: Full thermal conductivity and no interaction with other additives

Compatible with all available PC watercooling systems

 

[Conumdrum]

It's also used for batteries in the EU. The water you link to is perfectly fine don't need it that fancy at all. It's a PC, not a laboratory. We here pay $9 for a liter of that fancy overpriced stuff, when a gallon of the water we talk about is $1.25 or less here. That would be over $27 for the fancy water you want to buy. So look for basic distilled or deionized, check your labratory drug pharmancy etc to save some money. Every 6 months you should drain and refill anyway, it gets expensive.

On the stickies, most successful builders spend a few DAYS if not longer reading and understanding some of the science and tricks of watercooling before even picking parts.

Are you in a giant hurry or want to enjoy the fun of watercooling?

 

[3361]

@Conumdrum

Ok, I'll probably find it somewhere here in Norway I'll just ask friends and family.
But some expert that was on a video with newegg said that distilled water won't avoid corrosion, and since a lot of different types of metals are used in the different parts in a water cooling system, something could not mix well. But as far as I've understood, none of the components I've chosen have metals that would react with each other that way. So, yeah, distilled water has some pros, but so does other liquids. Not sure what I should choose really, maybe read a little bit more on the stickies. But if I remember correctly, the guy at frozenCPU said that all these parts should work together perfectly.

Well, most of the parts I have chosen have been recommended by the water cooling guy on frozen CPU, and most of it he uses himself, and I asked for the best/most efficient.
I want to enjoy the fun of it, try it myself, as I'm quite new to all of this.
I'm also quite impatient now, since I've spent months finding computer and liquid cooling parts. Reading reviews, talking with different people on different forums, and everyone recommends something different. Oddly, I decided to listen to the guy who probably wants to get as much money as possible out of me, lol.

 

[skorpien]

It used to be the case that certain watercooling parts were made from aluminum back when it was starting out. Nowadays, watercooling manufacturers use copper, brass and nickel that are similar enough that galvanic corrosion isn't a big issue. Unless you're using old radiators or blocks with aluminum (which you aren't), there's no point in using a corrosion inhibitor. The only thing you need to safeguard against is bacterial/algal growth with a biocide.

There's nothing wrong with listening to the guy from FrozenCPU. Their customer service is beyond exceptional and they really know their stuff. Not to mention they want you to walk away happy with your purchase so that you keep coming back

 

[3361]

Okay, thanks
Well, I think I'll just get some distilled water and some biocide then!

 

[Conumdrum]

@Conumdrum

Ok, I'll probably find it somewhere here in Norway I'll just ask friends and family.
But some expert that was on a video with newegg said that distilled water won't avoid corrosion, and since a lot of different types of metals are used in the different parts in a water cooling system, something could not mix well. But as far as I've understood, none of the components I've chosen have metals that would react with each other that way. So, yeah, distilled water has some pros, but so does other liquids. Not sure what I should choose really, maybe read a little bit more on the stickies. But if I remember correctly, the guy at frozenCPU said that all these parts should work together perfectly.

Newegg is full of fun stuff. As you learn you'll be able to cull the truth and common sense reality as you learn. Corriosion is a thing of the past. With dissimlar metals where ion exchange can acually pit metal to the point of failure is gone. The metals we use will not let that happen. Checking the post date of a vid or a text can really help.

Well, most of the parts I have chosen have been recommended by the water cooling guy on frozen CPU, and most of it he uses himself, and I asked for the best/most efficient.

I want to enjoy the fun of it, try it myself, as I'm quite new to all of this.
I'm also quite impatient now, since I've spent months finding computer and liquid cooling parts. Reading reviews, talking with different people on different forums, and everyone recommends something different. Oddly, I decided to listen to the guy who probably wants to get as much money as possible out of me, lol.

He uses the free magic liquid to his hearts content. He won't steer you wrong as long as you buy it from him. He might of been watercooling for eons and might be a leading contributer to the WC world, like Martin Or Skinnee. Or others. Or he built his first PC 5 weeks ago. This is where you build a list of watercooling forums and links and learn if you want to.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/ as a link.


Martinsliquidlab.org and Skinneelabs.com also.


Bundymania on xtreme forums has good posts.

It really depends how early you want to understand the real deep parts of PC watercooling. Or just run with your choice, which isn't bad and build it and be happy.

Your impatient because you have been flailing the hammer and not hitting anything. Now you found a home where peeps know what's good and bad and can guide you.

 

[Conumdrum]

And, now you can learn where other places just.... Just. Don't have a clue.

Give the stickies time.

And this link, kinda old but written for a guy just like you.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6489396&postcount=3

 

[3361]

Okay, thank you. I'll check them out when I have time

 

[\dev\goat]

I'm using a single swiftech 35x pump with dual gpu blocks, cpu block, and a HUGE radiator and I keep my pump at like 20% speed most of the time, just FYI. Might want to rethink that WAY expensive res/pump thing and go with something more normal. That thing will probably be loud and a pain in the *** to fill.

 

[Conumdrum]

Agreed. One 35x and a restop is enough. It's all about the options the new guy sees. Click buy easy. It's not that easy to do it right , we all know that.

 

[GTXJackBauer]

Since everyone has basically hit the basics, lol I will say one thing to save you time and money and you already know that theres no more Classifieds out there. I ordered a GTX 680 HC (I believe the only few left) and there still seem to be in stock on newegg but did go looking on EVGA's site and everyone else on the web for a Classified. Couldn't find NONE. I would choose wisely and if I was you theres no point of getting a classified because you can't touch the volts on them anymore so its pointless (no more EVBots). If you would like, go with the one on newegg. Its the second batch and slower than the first one. I believe its basically a GTX 680 Overclocked edition with the Block on it and its cheaper than the first batch by like $80 USD. Yes, FTW and Classifieds are faster on air but I think we might be able to surpass them on H20. Just giving you a heads up as all of the factory manufactered Hydro Coppers are almost out and classifieds are pretty much done with.

 

[Khan]

Didn't see anyone else say it, but I don't think those fans you chose will cut it on those rads, they only pull ahead in heat dissipation at 2000RPM mark with high speed high static pressure fans, those of the 120x38MM variety like deltas and panaflows. I have one of the 360 versions of that rad, it works great but my fans can get pretty loud if I turn them up.

If the noise and space to install the 120x38MM's are not an issue, then go for it.

 

[3361]

Since everyone has basically hit the basics, lol I will say one thing to save you time and money and you already know that theres no more Classifieds out there. I ordered a GTX 680 HC (I believe the only few left) and there still seem to be in stock on newegg but did go looking on EVGA's site and everyone where else on the web for a Classified. Couldn't find NONE. I would choose wisely and if I was you theres no point of getting a classified because you can't touch the volts on them anymore so its pointless (no more EVBots). If you would like, go with the one on newegg. Its the second batch and slower than the first one. I believe its basically a GTX 680 Overclocked edition with the Block on it and its cheaper than the first batch by like $80 USD. Yes, FTW and Classifieds are faster on air but I think we might be able to surpase them on H20. Just giving you a heads up as all of the factory manufactered Hydro Coppers are almost out and classifieds are pretty much done with.

There is a store here in Norway that will get 4 classified in stock soon.
I know that I can't use evbot anymore, but it's still faster than the FTW version (correct me if I'm wrong), and the superclocked version doesn't have 4gb of vram (which I need for multi-monitor gaming, and possibly future-proofing).

 

[3361]

Didn't see anyone else say it, but I don't think those fans you chose will cut it on those rads, they only pull ahead in heat dissipation at 2000RPM mark with high speed high static pressure fans, those of the 120x38MM variety like deltas and panaflows. I have one of the 360 versions of that rad, it works great but my fans can get pretty loud if I turn them up.

If the noise and space to install the 120x38MM's are not an issue, then go for it.

Well, the noise is an issue, but I'll consider it.