- Joined
- Jan 24, 2002
- Location
- New Jersey
I read somewhere that if I have a big enough res. that I dont need a radiator. So it would just be a pump, res, and waterblock. Is this true? (I was thinking a 10-55 gallon fish tank)
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Is this possible?
- Thread starter kttdkt
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2001
- Location
- Sacramento, CA
Yup you are correct. However, I prefer a rad over a large res anyday.
OP
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2002
- Location
- New Jersey
- Thread Starter
- #3
I also have a few questions.
1. What do I need to put in the water (is it anti-freeze) and how much of it?
2. If I get the Maze2-2 which is the set up for pelts, whould I still be able to use it without pelt/s, I will get the pelts in the future but I want to know If I can run it without any.?
3. Should I wate for the Maze3?
4. I've read a lot so far In these forums, I joined in the beggining of Jan, Do you think this is a good start for me (Never had a watercooling rig before)?
1. What do I need to put in the water (is it anti-freeze) and how much of it?
2. If I get the Maze2-2 which is the set up for pelts, whould I still be able to use it without pelt/s, I will get the pelts in the future but I want to know If I can run it without any.?
3. Should I wate for the Maze3?
4. I've read a lot so far In these forums, I joined in the beggining of Jan, Do you think this is a good start for me (Never had a watercooling rig before)?
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2002
- Location
- Groton, CT
Yeah the Danger Den stuf is good quality. Some people use antifreeze, but when i setup my WC rig i am just going to use distilled water and waterwetter. I havent heard anything about the maze 3 yet. Is there anyting official on them yet? I think i am going to go with the gemini spiral for a waterblock.
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2002
- Location
- Groton, CT
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2001
- Location
- Indiana
It's possible, but not recommended for continuous use. If you know anything about thermodynamics, you'll know that it takes a certain amount of energy to heat up 1 kg of a substance by 1K. A processor, over time, can boil water if it isn't cooled as quickly as it's getting heated up.
With passive cooling with a fish tank, you limit your cooling power by limiting the surface area that can be cooled. Compared to the entire area and the exposed surface area of the water, it's quite small. Unless your tank is 100cm x100cm x1cm (exaggerating), your water will most likely heat up slowly over time.
If you still insist on not having a radiator, drop some blocks of ice in the tank every now and then. That or turn don't keep your computer on all the time
With passive cooling with a fish tank, you limit your cooling power by limiting the surface area that can be cooled. Compared to the entire area and the exposed surface area of the water, it's quite small. Unless your tank is 100cm x100cm x1cm (exaggerating), your water will most likely heat up slowly over time.
If you still insist on not having a radiator, drop some blocks of ice in the tank every now and then. That or turn don't keep your computer on all the time
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2001
- Location
- Ottawa, Canada
It_The_Cow said:
Ditto that, even the theory is, if something is very big containing a certain temperature, over time it will change, and your going to get very tired of changing the water everyday.
OP
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2002
- Location
- New Jersey
- Thread Starter
- #8
So it is better just to get a cheap rad?
Do you always keep ur pump on?
Do you always keep ur pump on?
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2001
- Location
- Indiana
Depends how cheap. Passive cooling could be better than a radiator, depending on its quality. Depending on your setup (in this case, CPU and tank size), it could take a few hours to a day to heat up the water 1K. This should give you plenty of time to throw in ice from time to time. Throw in a big block of ice, and it'll probably take a few days to melt it completely. How well it will keep the temperature down is different, thoughkttdkt said:
Remember with ice comes condensation. Go light on the ice. Just enough to cool it back to around ambient or maybe 10 degrees below.
I'd use a big *** cooler instead of a fish tank.
1:Not as easily breakable
2:comparable in price or cheaper
3:If you use Ice it will keep the water cool closed (or hot if you don't leave it open).
4:You could mount a fan in the top for a make-shift evaporative type
5:They usually have a nice way to drain them
6:handles
7:you could "bongify" it later
8:wheels
9:had enough?
10:I thought so!
I'd use a big *** cooler instead of a fish tank.
1:Not as easily breakable
2:comparable in price or cheaper
3:If you use Ice it will keep the water cool closed (or hot if you don't leave it open).
4:You could mount a fan in the top for a make-shift evaporative type
5:They usually have a nice way to drain them
6:handles
7:you could "bongify" it later
8:wheels
9:had enough?
10:I thought so!
OP
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2002
- Location
- New Jersey
- Thread Starter
- #11
I think it would be better to goto a junkyard and get a car rad.
oh wait!, i had my system running off a 1galon container for 4hrs plus! and the water temps only got to around 27c!
so if a 10 gallon container in theory would go 10x4hrs! plus the surface area of cooling!, and some people run theirs off of a small fish tank.... so i think it would work with 10 gallons, but id say around 20 would be best, then when water gets warm add a little ice, dont add a lot, you get bad condensation! i did it once with that setup, i filled the container with ice then added water, wow cold but lots of condensation!
so if a 10 gallon container in theory would go 10x4hrs! plus the surface area of cooling!, and some people run theirs off of a small fish tank.... so i think it would work with 10 gallons, but id say around 20 would be best, then when water gets warm add a little ice, dont add a lot, you get bad condensation! i did it once with that setup, i filled the container with ice then added water, wow cold but lots of condensation!
