Koyo Race Car Radiator Passive SLI Setup

[Zenjirou]

Especially with a pump that strong, it'd seem like you'd wanna secure everything as good as possibly.

Today I started it officially. I have made a few observations. One of them which I am dissipointed in is a huge reduction in Flow, even for this Iwaki.

The MD20 has to Suck Water down 50 Parallel Tubes 1.5 Feet high, through a 1/2" Inlet.

As I have mentioned earlier, The Iwaki uses 5/8" Inlet yet the Reducer Coupler has not arrived yet. But I wanted to get this started so I used 1/2".

I'm hoping that today the 1" to 5/8" arrives, and that Flow will increase substantially. The Tubes Don't vibrate with power as it did before.

I don't know how many of you have used Iwaki MD20s, but it has a Very Power Suction head. The Fins on the Radiator Vibrate at least



For a quick Heads up, CPU idle is 27C (Ambient 23C).

GPUs are at 31C (I think they are always High no matter what).

I have a fresh install, so I need to install Benchmarking software and Temp monitors so I can post pics.

I am leaving out of Country Wed, so hopefull I can post them before that time. (Prime95 Load/3dMark/Quake4/Fear/Farcry..etc Fan/kept outside/late night temps), and Max O/C (hoping for 2.8 on this 3000+ )

-Cheers-

 

[pwnt by pat]

You REALLY want to get the tubing up on those barbs on the wyee. If you take them off and put them in boiling water for about five seconds, it should be easy to get them up. That top one looks like it's going to fall off.

Nice rad

 

[Aphex_Tom_9]

You REALLY want to get the tubing up on those barbs on the wyee. If you take them off and put them in boiling water for about five seconds, it should be easy to get them up. That top one looks like it's going to fall off.

Nice rad

yeah, get those tubes on those barbs!

 

[Biznatch]

Along with heating them up with water or a heat gun, you can also use something on the bard and the inside of the tubing to lubricate it temporarily to slide it over. Water alone would probablly be sufficient.

 

[Tat2monsta]

dood push them tubes onto that Y conecter as far as you can before you fill her up.... nice polaflo blocks.. i had one of them cpu blocks.. i love the way you can spin them round to ease tube stress (b4 mounting!) it sat on my desk doing nothing now thoe.. gf bought me a storm

 

[Zenjirou]

No worries. The Tubing will not come off unless you Pull Very Very Hard on them using two hands and lots of Strength

The Tubing is a size smaller than the Y is ment for (7/16" Y not available easyily), it cannot go furthur than that. I've set everthing up. Here are some temps:

Stock System Prime95 Load:

Here is Temp during 1hr of Quake 4 CPU: 2.7Ghz GPUs: 511Mhz/1.3Ghz

 

[Tat2monsta]

nice blocks aint they..dunno if i should hold on to my old polaflo or whack it in the classifieds. i wanted the gpu version. but oc-uk stopped doing them so i got a maze4 in the end. did you know that you can spin them?

 

[WarriorII]

Mmmmm..... spagettii.



Oh....verKILL !!!

 

[Zenjirou]

nice blocks aint they..dunno if i should hold on to my old polaflo or whack it in the classifieds. i wanted the gpu version. but oc-uk stopped doing them so i got a maze4 in the end. did you know that you can spin them?

For the CPU Block, the Spinning is convinient because it has adequate pressure when mounted and thus does not move.

As for the GPUs, Polarflo Blocks are the only GPU blocks that use only 2 of the Screw holes out of the 4. Because of this it cannot mount with adequate pressure without bending the board. Thus you cannot screw it in tight, which allows the Block to move easily if you accedently push a tubing or touch it.

Would be Great if they came in 4 Screw Versions, thus when its mounted the block will not move as easily. Overall Great Looking Blocks Might I say.

 

[Tat2monsta]

For the CPU Block, the Spinning is convinient because it has adequate pressure when mounted and thus does not move.
QUOTE]
lol yeah thats what i meant.. i didnt mean they spin all the time.. just clearing that up. just incase you read me wrong.. and yeah they look well bling. that why i bought mine in the first place.. good performers too

 

[Zenjirou]

3DMark05 2.7Ghz Run

 

[Zenjirou]

 

[Zenjirou]

Felt like updating this old thread

A few months ago I made a revisions
1)Painted Inside Black
2)Barbed Nipples seperating inner case and outtercase tubing

What I was unable to do was Change to MD30-RZG3, so I will have to stick with MD20-RZG2

That revision was a while back, and within a week I will change to Lian Li PC65 Case, DFI Ultra-D modded SLI, Opteron 148 at 3.1Ghz, two 7900GTs volt modded to 1.4V for some fun Passive Nature Chilled Overclocking

 

[Zenjirou]

well, Just won this from ebay:


MD30 with 36 feet of head pressure. It seems like overkill, but now that I have an MP01 and MP05 rather than the Polarflos, theres going to be a bunch of added restriction.

 

[Zenjirou]

So basically now I have completely upgraded. Ultra D , 3.1Ghz Opteron, 7900GT, and an Ultra D

Also have Aquaxtreme MP01 and MP05 Waterblocks. And possibly a new Swiftech Chipset Block.

And new LIAN li Case with Fan mount Case mod. Pics follow

 

[Zenjirou]

After lots of debating. I went with using a Bunch of 120mm Fans rather than a huge one. So I purchased 25 for $2 Each. And connected my new gear together. I am using a Temporary BIX and D5 until my Koyo Radiator gets an Aluminum Shroud with all 16 fans connected.

 

[Zenjirou]

hey,
a few pics of my progress so far.

Temporary Radiator and D5 in a box until Koyo is ready

No Chipset Block this time

The Deltas blow ~130 Cfms. The noise is slightly more than a Sanyo Denki 109R1212H1011, so its bareable. Looking for PWM to buy.

 

[z0n3]

Just how many Deltas is that? Watch out EC might get jealous.

 

[EvoFreak]

that's gonna be really hard managing those wires.

 

[Zenjirou]

Just how many Deltas is that? Watch out EC might get jealous.

25... and whos this "EC" ?