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PROJECT LOG LAZARUS - Skulltrail D5400XS + QX9775

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Polarblair

Registered
Joined
Dec 17, 2016
Foreword:
This project has already moved on but I wanted to post the development. Things started simply enough but slowly grew arms and legs!
This is the initial design I built my project around:










PROJECT LAZARUS

Overview
Used to have two PNY Quadro 3700s as this was my CAD rig.
Its no longer really needed for that so after receiving some currys vouchers I threw in the ASUS STRIX GTX 960
I know this won't compare to a modern gaming rig and that the hardware is very outdated. In all honesty I don't even really play a lot of games.
I do however have a soft spot for this machine and love tinkering so this will be watercooling for the sake of watercooling and overclocking more than anything else.

Mainly, I want to push this thing to see what it can really do, and if it can still hold its own.



Aim
No harm in having an idea of the end result. Phase 1 will just be focusing on the hardware and getting a stable overclock.
I can always look at hardline and the other mods once its up and running.
This is my first stab at the design. The loops looks a little messy in the basement but this will all be flexible tubing so less of a worry.
Looking for feedback and obvious mistakes.



Existing Hardware

Going to be reusing most of these parts to keep costs sensible
Parts to be replaced marked red

Case Silverstone TemJin TJ07B-W
Mobo Intel D5400XS Skulltrail - 2no. Intel QX9775 @3.2GHz
CPU 2no. Intel QX9775 @3.2GHz
RAM 8 GB Corsair DDR2 667MHz FB-DIMM
SSD 250gb samsung 850 evo
PSU1300W Tagan TG1300-BZ
GPU ASUS STRIX GTX 960



Outstanding Issues

Fill/ Bleed
Still need to figure out the best place to splice in the bleed valve. Currently have the taps positioned next to the pumps.
Reservoirs are filled from lines accessed on the other side of the case.

Sensor/ Controller
Need some pointers on the control scheme for the waterloop. I already have an Aquaero 4 controller.
If I use fan splitters will this be enough for my purposes? I'm assuming the pumps can be run without electronic control and just set at a constant rate?

Any advice would be appreciated - Thanks for Looking :)

- - - Updated - - -

Southbridge Waterblock Update

Minor rethink in the design - Planning to re-use the fan from the original Southbridge to help dissipate heat. Also will drastically increased the surface area of the block and should increase heat transfer. Although the mini blocks are perfectly sized for this application, the smaller diameter tubing will reduce flow. Have compensated by designing in two blocks per chip.

Although this looks complicated - most of the assembly is laser cut. I have access to a small engraving machine which should be just about capable of machining the copper base.
The benefit is the low cost of the components. Raw materials are cheap too and I'm hoping to do most of this with off-cuts. Critically, I'm not machining anything that has to hold pressure - The loop itself is independent of any fabrication work I have to do.



- - - Updated - - -

Voltage Regulator Loop

Universal MB blocks cut to the correct size. Have to pass VR loop under the CPU and NB loop. Think this is where a different colour in the second loop would really make the Voltage Regulator loop stand out.




Southbridge Waterblock

Machining a custom Southbridge Block is out of the question. So I'm working on a DIY heatsink utilising GPU Vram Mini Blocks. Super cheap. That coupled with another universal MB block should keep things cool - just need to sort the tube layout.




Mini Waterblocks and Splitters

Getting very tempted by UV reactive!



 
OP
Polarblair

Polarblair

Registered
Joined
Dec 17, 2016
This Project has already moved on but I wanted to show the development










PROJECT LAZARUS

Overview
Used to have two PNY Quadro 3700s as this was my CAD rig.
Its no longer really needed for that so after receiving some currys vouchers I threw in the ASUS STRIX GTX 960
I know this won't compare to a modern gaming rig and that the hardware is very outdated. In all honesty I don't even really play a lot of games.
I do however have a soft spot for this machine and love tinkering so this will be watercooling for the sake of watercooling and overclocking more than anything else.

Mainly, I want to push this thing to see what it can really do, and if it can still hold its own.



Aim
No harm in having an idea of the end result. Phase 1 will just be focusing on the hardware and getting a stable overclock.
I can always look at hardline and the other mods once its up and running.
This is my first stab at the design. The loops looks a little messy in the basement but this will all be flexible tubing so less of a worry.
Looking for feedback and obvious mistakes.



Existing Hardware

Going to be reusing most of these parts to keep costs sensible
Parts to be replaced marked red

Case Silverstone TemJin TJ07B-W
Mobo Intel D5400XS Skulltrail - 2no. Intel QX9775 @3.2GHz
CPU 2no. Intel QX9775 @3.2GHz
RAM 8 GB Corsair DDR2 667MHz FB-DIMM
SSD 250gb samsung 850 evo
PSU1300W Tagan TG1300-BZ
GPU ASUS STRIX GTX 960



Outstanding Issues

Fill/ Bleed
Still need to figure out the best place to splice in the bleed valve. Currently have the taps positioned next to the pumps.
Reservoirs are filled from lines accessed on the other side of the case.

Sensor/ Controller
Need some pointers on the control scheme for the waterloop. I already have an Aquaero 4 controller.
If I use fan splitters will this be enough for my purposes? I'm assuming the pumps can be run without electronic control and just set at a constant rate?

Any advice would be appreciated - Thanks for Looking :)
 
OP
Polarblair

Polarblair

Registered
Joined
Dec 17, 2016
Voltage Regulator Loop

Universal MB blocks cut to the correct size. Have to pass VR loop under the CPU and NB loop. Think this is where a different colour in the second loop would really make the Voltage Regulator loop stand out.




Southbridge Waterblock

Machining a custom Southbridge Block is out of the question. So I'm working on a DIY heatsink utilising GPU Vram Mini Blocks. Super cheap. That coupled with another universal MB block should keep things cool - just need to sort the tube layout.




Mini Waterblocks and Splitters

Getting very tempted by UV reactive!





- - - Updated - - -

Final Southbridge Design

Moar loops.

Thinking about a white and silver colour scheme for the loops but still considering UV reactive. Have removed the second graphics card as buying a second STRIX 970 is waaay down the bottom of the list.



Im still in favor of showing off the mini loop in the southbridge - the images below looks a little confusing due to transparency. Red and blue is indicative only - just to differentiate between inlet and outlet.
I have not modelled the exact connecting junctions. I will revisit that when I do final renders sets. The main thing is confirming the loop routing.

Im borrowing styling notes from the original Southbridge design:







The Copper blocks will be soldered into place and then the whole combined plate area lapped and polished.



The exploded axo shows the relative simplicity in the design. The loops are sandwiched between two separate 5mm Acrylic sheets (one in clear and the other black)
The black 5mm layer is bonded to a copper plate which forms the lid for the fan/heatsink area below.

The clear 5mm layer is bonded to the clear lid which will hold everything together.




Should provide some fairly serious cooling :D

- - - Updated - - -

Design Revision

Looking for feedback/general thoughts.
Concern is that one 480x60mm, one 240x30mm and one 120x30mm rad will be insufficient for the over clock I'm hoping to achieve.

So bear in mind that this is still a little rough and ready - all the hard line routing still needs to be finished.

Design removes all radiators, pumps and fans to the side of the case. Shortened donor TJ07 chassis acts as housing. The main portion will then be glazed on three sides exposing the components.

Creates space for at least 3no. 480x60mm rads all in push/pull fan configuration. I'm not saying thats what's going in, just that there is space for at least that many components/ future expansion.

Other benefits:

1. PCI E extender allows graphic cars to be positioned in any location to better show them off (may be watercooling them)

2. More space for custom southbridge cooler (design has been refined again -more on that later)

3. Less attractive soundcard and WiFi card can be concealed in other side of case.

4. Space now for 3 loops - note extra reservoir.

5. Ain't no one got a TJO7 like this.

Just wasn't happy with the current design - starting to make too many compromises.

Looks weird now - give me a chance for some spit and polish to prove the concept.






Rad & Fan config


Have two possible configs for rad/ fan arrangement. Benefit to option on the right would be that all of the rads have a fresh air supply directly from outside.

Left side config would be more compact and has all fans working together. Can anyone tell me the benefit /downsides of both?

 
OP
Polarblair

Polarblair

Registered
Joined
Dec 17, 2016
More goodies

Just in case there was doubt that this will just be a virtual reality design exercise - more kit is on the way!

Will have to see if ram cooler fits (I'm sure I can MAKE it fit)

Radiator - £65
RAM cooler - £30
Job lot of EK fittings - £49

Seeing as this project has gone beyond growing arms and legs - I'll have to keep the cost's down somehow! :D







- - - Updated - - -

Decided on RAD setup - 3 loops - 3no. Alphacool NexXxoS 480mm UT60

Now is it better to :
  1. have the fans pull air into the case through the top, front and back of the case, through the rads and out and out the side panel - top four fans pulling air into the case
  2. have the fans pull air from from the side panel, through the rads and vent into the case. Top fans exhausting straight up - remaining air flowing out of the front and back


Leaning to option 1 as hot air is exhausted out the side. That being said, option 2 sucks fresh air directly from the outside. Can always test both configs to see what works best.


Ignore the colour scheme - still playing with the idea of UV Reactive :D







- - - Updated - - -

This should be the design fairly locked-in now. The aim here is now basically to model up the design to figure out how the T-slot sub frame, hinges, plates and fittings all go together.
All this prep should mean less surprises. The plan is now to look at sponsorship even if its a long shot - hence the alphacool colour scheme and components (some of which I already have).

Looking at the reviews and long term user feedback it also seems that the only really long term stable coolants are straight up distilled water and some of the very basic pre-mixed blue coolants which work just fine for me.









Rad Array

I have the space, so I'm going to use it. It also allows plenty of room for expansion even if I don't fill all 4 Rad Bays straight away. I'm now looking at possibly replacing the current GTX 960 with 2no. Gtx 980 watercooled. More heat, more rads! :thumb:





Access

I've designed this to hinge on one edge so the whole frame can be swung free of the case for maintenance and general access during assembly. Due to the weight involved, I will probably have to build in some drop down feet to support the frame while its extended.



Sub Frame

The whole sub frame willl be made out of 20x20mm T-slot extruded aluminium. I can weld it where needed to keep fitting costs down or benefit from the easy construction. Its pretty much grown up lego. This should substantially beef up the frame and make handling and moving the whole unit much safer. I have removed the second case in the images to expose the frame making things easier to see. Some additional bracing will probably be required at the front to keep the upright where the hinges are connected solid.







Fan & Rad Array

This gives a better view of how the frame fits into the side and where the hinges are located. They look small but there are lots of them and they are heavy duty. Most of the time the whole assembly will be resting directly on the sub-frame anyway so they should only be under load when access is required. Not pictures are the 2mm separating pads which will sit in the small gap between the Rad-Frame and the Sub-Frame. This will reduce friction and add a nice bit of slack in (pad can then be sized at the end to fit gap width)





Frame Construction

The Rad Array Frame looks more complicated than it is. I'll build each frame out of 20x20mm angles (3mm thick). Once these are assembled, I can slide them over a jig with the required hole spacing and cut the curved sections last to give the Gentle Typhoons the clearance they need.



Feedback

As always, love to hear feedback - criticism is always welcome.
 
OP
Polarblair

Polarblair

Registered
Joined
Dec 17, 2016
Waterloop Design

Did a bit more work on the waterloop. I'm pretty happy with it so far. Can already tell its going to be a pain to drain but so far I'm thinking draining straight from the ports on the radiators will be a pretty safe bet.

The North bridge block now shares the same loop with the CPU's but I'm compensating for the extra load with two of the Alphacool 480mm UT60 radiators.







Unicorn RAM

So my initial research dug up the only 800MHz CL4 RAM I think was ever produced. The Kingston Hyper X FB-DIMMs. Well, I don't want to count my chickens but I managed to track down a full set :D
Wait and see if they're still serviceable but I'm getting them for a tiny fraction of what they used to cost so its worth the risk!

These things were designed with the Skulltrail board in mind and could be overclocked with 3-4-3-12 timings at 800MHz. Only 4GB total so unsure if capacity will impact performance. One thing is for sure though - they're as fast as it gets.



- - - Updated - - -

Cables & Fan Controller

Mate had a set of sleeved cables which will do nicely for now. Extra fan controller will let me dome some basic testing once the fans arrive. Will be trying to run everything from the Aquaero 4 but still need to do a bit more reading on that.
Looking to control 3 pumps, 32 fans on the radiators and another 6 case fans.



- - - Updated - - -

Fans Arrived!

You might be thinking "I'm sure I've seen those fans somewhere before"



Those who have been following Reglar's Project Second Pass Build over on Overclock.net as well as the original Pandamonium build will immediately recognise the bright pink Gentle Typhoons.
Very kindly donated to the cause, I have already decided that these will live on in their fantastic pink state - all 30 of them! :D

- - - Updated - - -

I really need to stop making impulse buys while im browsing tinternet on the throne.



I may have just bought an Alphacool Monsta 480mm Rad.
"Where on earth do I plan on fitting that?!" I hear no one crya

Well, I may not just be getting one but two. More on that later :D

- - - Updated - - -

Second TJ07 case has arrived!

Can now get on with the fabrication side of things as well as the Rad-array :D



- - - Updated - - -

Yup - fits.





- - - Updated - - -

Fatman1 has landed!



- - - Updated - - -

Think I may need a bigger desk...

 
OP
Polarblair

Polarblair

Registered
Joined
Dec 17, 2016
Had a look at the mobo and looks like I have 3no. 4pin connectors. Thats three out of 5 rads taken care of (24 fans) :D
Should be able to handle the remaining 16 rad fans from the Aquaero4 and save some money.







The plan is to incorporate some inline sensors into the base of the case. I put these back in the latest design revision as I reintroduced the basement to fit two of the Monsta Rads :)
 
OP
Polarblair

Polarblair

Registered
Joined
Dec 17, 2016
Having a little mockup test to check dimensions. These things are HUGE!

 
OP
Polarblair

Polarblair

Registered
Joined
Dec 17, 2016
I am so lost right now. I can't wait to see this thing.
Going to be a while before I get all the bits together!


Interesting setup
Cheers! Its probably a bit overkill in terms of the investment in time and money for what is by now very old hardware. On the other hand, I use this for render work which the Skulltrail is perfect for - even better if I get it overclocked as far as I'm hoping.
If one day I do replace the Mobo and upgrade the system, the cooling will already be sorted :D
 
Last edited:
OP
Polarblair

Polarblair

Registered
Joined
Dec 17, 2016
Fire and Molten Metal

HTS 2000 Brazing Rods have arrived. Just need to find me some cheap T-slot aluminium. Will probably weld the two aluminum uni-bodies together then use an automotive body filler to make the join disappear.

Would take too long to build it up in welds and be less cost effective anyway. Should be an easier job to sand and prep for paint too.

 
OP
Polarblair

Polarblair

Registered
Joined
Dec 17, 2016
RAM Time - Decision Made

So it would seem that server hardware retains its value exceptionally well - not that this board costs anything close to as new prices if you're lucky enough to find one these days but RAM? That's a different story. Here was me thinking:

"its old as hell - I'll pick up a full set of RAM for $20"

Not so much. Now please no-one go and p*ss on my chips by telling me they have better sticks kicking round in a drawer somewhere that I could have had for postage. Actually scratch that - if you have them let me know.

Back in the real world these are the best I've found. Theyre Hynix OEM Crucial branded 4GB 800MHz DDR2 FB DIMM sticks capable of 555-11 timings as standard. Its far from amazing by modern day standards but its the best I could find for this board and they were far from cheap. They're not actually that bad in comparison with the Unicorn RAM Kingston made back in the day (see below).

With some heavy overvolting and watercooling I might even get them performing about the same.



Another step closer to unleashing the full potential of this system.

Just for fun

Back in the day Kingston developed RAM just for this system. Downside is they were only made available in 4GB kits. Useless for anything other than benchmarking I recently came accross a set at a price too good to pass up. They pretty too :D

 
Last edited:
OP
Polarblair

Polarblair

Registered
Joined
Dec 17, 2016
Unfortunately the deal fell through with the North and Southbridge blocks I managed to track down. Until I get them, this project is dead in the water.

I'm putting any further expenditure on hold until I manage to source the elusive parts. I'll update as soon as something changes.

Anyone able to point me in the right direction sourcing these parts, I would greatly appreciate the help.
 

Blaylock

"That Backfired" Senior Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2013
Location
Go Blue!
I'm hoping you find what you need. GL

I'm also Subbing this in hopes that it continues. That mini water block and splitters look sick on the GPU.
 

Arkade

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2013
Damn, I so wanna follow. Sorry for the bump but you should have gotten a 32GB kit instead of a 16 GB kit. So worth it!!! Cost me 25$

D5400XS.png

I could help you if you'd like, so you know the D5400XS has goofy fan control

It's accomplished by using 2 ADT7490's conntected to each address on the smbus, 2C and 2E. 2C connectes the Right CPU in the front of the system and operates the front 3 pin header at 50% on SLOW and also controls the 4 PIN header which operates at 30% on SLOW. They both are controlled by the VRM temperatures(actually called CPU AREA or "LOCAL"). 2E is connected to the Left back CPU and controls the RAM Fan header, Rear fan header, and MCH fan header. The Rear and RAM headers are tied together and vary with eachother and start at 70% on SLOW. The MCH fan header is controlled by the MCH(Remote 2) and starts at 50% on SLOW. The RAM and the REAR fans temperature however is based on the VRM temps(LOCAL), the RAM Area sensor is on 2C not 2E and as such cannot vary fan speed based on ram temperatures. Each CPU has a specialized bus for controlling CPU temp named PECI0 and PECI1, PECI1 is the left and PECI0 is the right. By default it's at 40% on SLOW and varys fan speed based on the Intel Thermal management engine in the CPU(using thermal margin, it's based on the fans distance to tCase, once you are within 20-25C of tCASE than fan will ramp up until the temp rise stops, then ramps down when distance to tCase is greater than 30C). These are non adjustable sadly.

Depending on your setup, you may want to build auto PWM controller based on bing's design thread with brutal force. I'd love to help another fellow D5400XS owner out!