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looking for 2000 grit wet dry ?

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Mord-Sith

Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2001
I dont know about you guys but I was having a problem finding a place that had high grit wet dry sandpaper in stock. I just happened to stumble into my local Jocos Auto Parts today and found everything from 150 to 2000 grit. Just FYI
 

outhouse

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2001
Location
Auburn California
I hope your not planning on lapping all the way to 2000 they have found that 600 is about the sweet spot rite now as when you lapp to 2000 it is so smooth and flat that it sqwishes the thermal compound out from in between the HS and the CPU. Ive done mine with 1500 and its still doing a good job but i think on my next one i'll be stopping at 600 as it tends to hold on to the thermal compound a little better.
 

Hoot

Inactive Moderator
Joined
Feb 13, 2001
Location
Twin Cities
Outhouse is right. I did buy a few sheets of 1000 to try out, but the difference was not worth the effort. Most important, when you get to the 600 is to keep flushing it periodically with some water that has some dish soap in it. I use a teaspoon of soap to a half cup of water. When you see metal particles floating in the slurry, rinse it off with some more of the water/soap mix and continue.

Hoot
 

AMDGuy

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2001
I found 3000 grit at Sherwin Williams paint stores for $1.00 a sheet. This is the finest wet dry available. I lapped my BECOOLING copper block all the way up to 3000. I then test mounted it with artic silver 2 to see if it actually did cause a problem being so smooth and it didn't. I mounted it, then removed it and looked at how the artic silver 2 was dispersed. There was a perfect rectangle of artic silver 2 on the block.
 
OP
Mord-Sith

Mord-Sith

Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2001
as of right now Ive only been going to 600 but I thought Id just tell people where they can get it.

Hey if your not going to use 2000 for lapping you can at least try to piano black your case :)
 

outhouse

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2001
Location
Auburn California
AMDGuy (Jun 06, 2001 10:24 p.m.):
I found 3000 grit at Sherwin Williams paint stores for $1.00 a sheet. This is the finest wet dry available. I lapped my BECOOLING copper block all the way up to 3000. I then test mounted it with artic silver 2 to see if it actually did cause a problem being so smooth and it didn't. I mounted it, then removed it and looked at how the artic silver 2 was dispersed. There was a perfect rectangle of artic silver 2 on the block.

Good job lapping I know what you mean at 1500 i'm getting good results out of a cheap HSF but i think if 600 will work the same i think i'll save the extra hour of lapping, the main reason i have replied is i'm hoping maybe someone else reading this could give it a try and see what the temp difference is between the two 600 or 1500 and up, anyone getting ready to lapp please give this a try and let us know your results this has been done before but it all come down to Celcius how low can you go :)
 

BboySkid

Registered
Joined
Apr 16, 2001
IMHO the purpose of thermal compound was to fill in the air gaps, correct me if I am wrong but I thought a PERFECT 100% metal to metal contact between the core and heatsink was the best, WITHOUT thermal compound. Now since the chances of the perfect contact are close to nil, we use arctic silver ii to help with the imperfections. I'm thinking the flatter the heatsink and core, the less thermal compound is needed
so at 600 grit lapping might be ideal for the usual amount of AS2, but if someone were to goto 1500, would it not make sense to use less arctic silver, because the valleys on the HS aren't as large

my 2 pennies for ya.
 

Slake

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2001
Location
Knoxville,Tn
outhouse (Jun 07, 2001 01:01 a.m.):
AMDGuy (Jun 06, 2001 10:24 p.m.):
I found 3000 grit at Sherwin Williams paint stores for $1.00 a sheet. This is the finest wet dry available. I lapped my BECOOLING copper block all the way up to 3000. I then test mounted it with artic silver 2 to see if it actually did cause a problem being so smooth and it didn't. I mounted it, then removed it and looked at how the artic silver 2 was dispersed. There was a perfect rectangle of artic silver 2 on the block.

Good job lapping I know what you mean at 1500 i'm getting good results out of a cheap HSF but i think if 600 will work the same i think i'll save the extra hour of lapping, the main reason i have replied is i'm hoping maybe someone else reading this could give it a try and see what the temp difference is between the two 600 or 1500 and up, anyone getting ready to lapp please give this a try and let us know your results this has been done before but it all come down to Celcius how low can you go :)

Preface: Please note that Hoot is much more experienced and successful at overclocking than I. The following is simply a recount of a hurried experiment in which I did not flush with water as Hoot advises above. Just changed to a new sheet. I had the HSF out and back in within about 40 minutes. Lesson learned: Take your time. The next new heatsink I lap will be done as Hoot suggests, then if not satisfied I will go to a finer grit.
I agree with BboySkid. Direct contact is better than goop, no matter how good the goop. Rotating the heatsink about every 10 seconds or so while lapping helps to avoid uneven lapping also.
I am definately not a lapping expert, but my personal results were better with the very fine grit paper. A good tip from Phil or Colin was to use Arctic silver on the final lap as lubricant. You may be interested to read this thread;
http://forums.overclockers.ws/forums/UltraBoard.cgi
It may have just been a fluke, and I also did the big no-no of lapping the die of my celly. But several other members thoughts on the subject are in the thread at the above link. Whatever you do DON'T lap the die unless you like living very dangerously AND do a lot of reading and preperation on how to properly do it. For all my effort the best I could do is return to the same temps I started out with from my original lapping. 600 to 800 to 1500 to 2000. Temps aren't great 31C idle 43C full load at 24C ambient.
 

Fro

Registered
Joined
Mar 14, 2001
all i've seen out of ppl that got a mirror finish with 100 grit or higher was equal or worse results. dunno why it is.. but who cares..... those are the results. i've seen many a person talk about it on these forums so i assume it just might be the truth. in reality if ya think about it, the non polished surface does have more surface area to absorb heat. and as far as i originally knew when i first heard about lapping was to flatten out heatsinks, not make it so you can shave with them(mirror).