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looking for 2000 grit wet dry ?
- Thread starter Mord-Sith
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2001
- Location
- Auburn California
I hope your not planning on lapping all the way to 2000 they have found that 600 is about the sweet spot rite now as when you lapp to 2000 it is so smooth and flat that it sqwishes the thermal compound out from in between the HS and the CPU. Ive done mine with 1500 and its still doing a good job but i think on my next one i'll be stopping at 600 as it tends to hold on to the thermal compound a little better.
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2001
- Location
- Twin Cities
Outhouse is right. I did buy a few sheets of 1000 to try out, but the difference was not worth the effort. Most important, when you get to the 600 is to keep flushing it periodically with some water that has some dish soap in it. I use a teaspoon of soap to a half cup of water. When you see metal particles floating in the slurry, rinse it off with some more of the water/soap mix and continue.
Hoot
Hoot
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2001
I found 3000 grit at Sherwin Williams paint stores for $1.00 a sheet. This is the finest wet dry available. I lapped my BECOOLING copper block all the way up to 3000. I then test mounted it with artic silver 2 to see if it actually did cause a problem being so smooth and it didn't. I mounted it, then removed it and looked at how the artic silver 2 was dispersed. There was a perfect rectangle of artic silver 2 on the block.
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2001
- Location
- Auburn California
Good job lapping I know what you mean at 1500 i'm getting good results out of a cheap HSF but i think if 600 will work the same i think i'll save the extra hour of lapping, the main reason i have replied is i'm hoping maybe someone else reading this could give it a try and see what the temp difference is between the two 600 or 1500 and up, anyone getting ready to lapp please give this a try and let us know your results this has been done before but it all come down to Celcius how low can you go
IMHO the purpose of thermal compound was to fill in the air gaps, correct me if I am wrong but I thought a PERFECT 100% metal to metal contact between the core and heatsink was the best, WITHOUT thermal compound. Now since the chances of the perfect contact are close to nil, we use arctic silver ii to help with the imperfections. I'm thinking the flatter the heatsink and core, the less thermal compound is needed
so at 600 grit lapping might be ideal for the usual amount of AS2, but if someone were to goto 1500, would it not make sense to use less arctic silver, because the valleys on the HS aren't as large
my 2 pennies for ya.
so at 600 grit lapping might be ideal for the usual amount of AS2, but if someone were to goto 1500, would it not make sense to use less arctic silver, because the valleys on the HS aren't as large
my 2 pennies for ya.
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2001
- Location
- Knoxville,Tn
outhouse (Jun 07, 2001 01:01 a.m.):
Good job lapping I know what you mean at 1500 i'm getting good results out of a cheap HSF but i think if 600 will work the same i think i'll save the extra hour of lapping, the main reason i have replied is i'm hoping maybe someone else reading this could give it a try and see what the temp difference is between the two 600 or 1500 and up, anyone getting ready to lapp please give this a try and let us know your results this has been done before but it all come down to Celcius how low can you go
Preface: Please note that Hoot is much more experienced and successful at overclocking than I. The following is simply a recount of a hurried experiment in which I did not flush with water as Hoot advises above. Just changed to a new sheet. I had the HSF out and back in within about 40 minutes. Lesson learned: Take your time. The next new heatsink I lap will be done as Hoot suggests, then if not satisfied I will go to a finer grit.
I agree with BboySkid. Direct contact is better than goop, no matter how good the goop. Rotating the heatsink about every 10 seconds or so while lapping helps to avoid uneven lapping also.
I am definately not a lapping expert, but my personal results were better with the very fine grit paper. A good tip from Phil or Colin was to use Arctic silver on the final lap as lubricant. You may be interested to read this thread;
http://forums.overclockers.ws/forums/UltraBoard.cgi
It may have just been a fluke, and I also did the big no-no of lapping the die of my celly. But several other members thoughts on the subject are in the thread at the above link. Whatever you do DON'T lap the die unless you like living very dangerously AND do a lot of reading and preperation on how to properly do it. For all my effort the best I could do is return to the same temps I started out with from my original lapping. 600 to 800 to 1500 to 2000. Temps aren't great 31C idle 43C full load at 24C ambient.
all i've seen out of ppl that got a mirror finish with 100 grit or higher was equal or worse results. dunno why it is.. but who cares..... those are the results. i've seen many a person talk about it on these forums so i assume it just might be the truth. in reality if ya think about it, the non polished surface does have more surface area to absorb heat. and as far as i originally knew when i first heard about lapping was to flatten out heatsinks, not make it so you can shave with them(mirror).
