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Looking for advice on rigid acrylic rebuild

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MunkyTOS

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Joined
Oct 16, 2011
Location
New England
Looking for advice on rigid acrylic rebuild, issues with current

Hey OC'ers!

After seeing quite a few builds using rigid tubing, I've realized how much I like it. I need to do some loop maintenance anyways, I figured its a better time than any to replace. I currently use the WC kit in my signature and am looking for advice from general community but mostly anyone that has worked with the material. I had noticed someone mentioning this so as it stands now will be the brand tubing I am planning on buying but obviously I have no preference to brand as I just want quality so input on that would be great too, or other options. As far as the parts list I'm not particularly sure on needs. Performance PCs listed an E22 push fitting so I am wondering if thats all I need. I'm very open to advice as far as options/alternatives to this brand etc etc.

Two other questions I have is with the rigid acrylic route, could anyone give me advice as to where I might install some sort of T-line/drain for the loop? This is a stock photo I found and laid out my loop with my intense MS Paint skills to give an idea of layout. I guess part two of this question would be does an rigid acrylic loop have one to begin with? I guess it sounds silly in my head but I figure it's better to ask and look silly than to not and be a fool. As a side note this loop is CPU only, I had originally planned to cool my GPU down the line but it wasnt reference and I didnt not like the look/idea of the options for my GPU.


My last question that I can think of right now is liquid. When I bought my xspc kit they included XSPC ec6 but I'm wondering if plain distilled water is the best idea or if any of those deionized etc etc liquids are worth it or they're just gimmicks. Part two of that question is kill coil vs liquid additive because I still have a fairly full bottle of dead water biocide but I wasnt sure if this is something that is only meant for certain types of liquids as it says coolant biocide additive or if it can be used in any types of liquid you'd find in a loop.
 

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skorpien

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May 9, 2011
Location
Alberta, Canada
I hope I can answer a few of your questions.

You really don't "need" much else than that, but I do suggest getting a silicon bending insert if you're going to be doing any bending of your acrylic (and a heat gun if you don't have one). The insert keeps the acrylic tubing from collapsing when you bend it.

Primochill also makes some great rigid acrylic tubing in some nice colors if you want to look at those. I believe PPCs and FCPU would have them listed.

The drain port should be on the lowest point of the loop for ease of draining. Rigid acrylic doesn't have a drain port by default.

Distilled is what we here suggest. Deionized if distilled isn't easy to get in your locale. Both need to have some sort of biocide. Silver kill coil or Dead Water/PHN Nuke, one or the other, but if you want you can use both for redundancy. Anything else is just a gimmick IMO.
 
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MunkyTOS

Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2011
Location
New England
I hope I can answer a few of your questions.

You really don't "need" much else than that, but I do suggest getting a silicon bending insert if you're going to be doing any bending of your acrylic (and a heat gun if you don't have one). The insert keeps the acrylic tubing from collapsing when you bend it.

Primochill also makes some great rigid acrylic tubing in some nice colors if you want to look at those. I believe PPCs and FCPU would have them listed.

The drain port should be on the lowest point of the loop for ease of draining. Rigid acrylic doesn't have a drain port by default.

Distilled is what we here suggest. Deionized if distilled isn't easy to get in your locale. Both need to have some sort of biocide. Silver kill coil or Dead Water/PHN Nuke, one or the other, but if you want you can use both for redundancy. Anything else is just a gimmick IMO.

Yes thank you skorpien for all the input. As far as the silicon tubing I forgot mention I did find this one by E22 as my choice since it was conveniently listed next to their tubing. I did notice it being used in a video I had watched and thought what a great idea.


With the loop I just have no idea what would make sense in terms of the layout since the res is tucked into the 5.25 bay so the liquid is either at the rad or level with the res/cpu.
 

skorpien

Member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Location
Alberta, Canada
Well, if it were up to me, I would use a T fitting near the input or output of the res then use a valve coming straight down with a stop fitting on the open end. Then you could connect a length of tubing to the valve when you want to drain it and open the valve. You could also do the same with a pair of QDCs.
 
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MunkyTOS

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Oct 16, 2011
Location
New England
Later on today I'll open up my rig to kinda look around and see where I have clearance/ areas i can kinda fit but tuck it away. I imagine that I need an adapter if I use that valve correct? It shows dual g1/4" thread
 
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MunkyTOS

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Oct 16, 2011
Location
New England
Ah I see so with that t fitting, I will need an additional two push fittings and the rotary fitting would connect directly to the valve correct?


Another question i've thought about is how well the tubing holds up to gravity. Will there eventually be any kind of sag or does the tubing maintain a strong rigidity?
 

DaaG

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2007
Tubing maintains strong rigidity.
Just make sure you get the correct id fittings, the ones you listed or Bitspower C47/8s . If you go with Primochill tubing you must get their fittings. E22 works with any 10/12 or 8/10 pushfits that are g1/4.
Oh yea, get more tubing than you think you'll need, cause you will.
 
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MunkyTOS

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Oct 16, 2011
Location
New England
Alright thanks and most definitely, if I go with E22 it'd be 12mm OD 10mm ID push fittings + tubing and it looks like performance pcs sells in ~40" lengths


As a side note another thing I will be working on is redoing my cable management. My question is is there a good place to get extenders? I like the nice clean look of individually sleeved cables but the ones I saw on performance pcs are very pricey to me. If done myself, could anyone give me a ballpark for cost of materials/tools and level of difficulty? Thanks again for all the input so far and in advance for information to come.
 
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Conumdrum

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Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
I used Performance PC's lotsa choices. I forget which one I bought, but I looked at reviews with Goggle fu and bought them. It was the best I could find on PPC and the reviews of them was great. They are very thick webbing and did good. I got extenders for my 24 pin, 8 pin mobo, 6 and 8 pin for the GPU.

Maybe this shows it best.

IMG_1000.jpg
 
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MunkyTOS

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Oct 16, 2011
Location
New England
Looking very nice, roughly how much would you say that ran you? I imagine i would go that similar route with only getting extenders for those cables listed.
 
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MunkyTOS

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Oct 16, 2011
Location
New England
did you have alook here ?

Thanks for the link but after scrolling through a good portion it just looks like a lot of arguing and +1's, from what I did read aside from that was very informational.


I think the remainder of my concerns however are more about figuring out a loop layout that would work in my case and just getting user input as far as brand quality and sources. However I am open to any advice/opinions on things I may have missed. Perhaps rule of thumb kind of information pertaining to logic of measurements. Does anyone have tips for such a task? I would like to avoid as much trial and error cuts as possible ie. cutting both ends of the tubing until it eventually fits. For example if I know the tubing needs to come out lets say 2 1/2" from the cpu block to line up with the inlet for my bay reservoir, how much length is lost in a 90° bend? Or is this more a works on paper, not so much in application.
 
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MunkyTOS

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Oct 16, 2011
Location
New England
Well ****, looking around on frozencpu for some parts to redo my loop and I find this in bay res. How screwed am I? I'm not really sure the best course of action from here. Thanks in advance OC'ers! :bang head :bang head
 

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DaaG

Member
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Feb 2, 2007
Can't even tell what your referring to. Is it algea?
Anyway back to your original questions, your going E22 right? they are now selling Lutro's sleeving supplies, he has quality sleeving, the Telios is very nice.
For your rigid questions, Bitspower has new fittings for 12mm here
As far as the deadwater goes, how long has it been since a fluid change? and how much did you use? otherwise if that's algae in that picture, deadwater may not be so.
 
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MunkyTOS

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Oct 16, 2011
Location
New England
Not sure on e22, was looking at the new primo chill ghost fittings which made me think to look at my loop to do figuring out. Since thing I've pulled the entire loop and there's a bit of algae buils up near the pump. There's this sort of rounded piece of acrylic leading to the pump which has the buildup on it. Other than that area I saw minor buildup along the opposite wall. I'm temporarily going back to my hyper 212 until I get things figured out. Any tips on how to clean the res? It's all contained so I don't know if I can open it at all.
 

DaaG

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2007
Thanks for the link but after scrolling through a good portion it just looks like a lot of arguing and +1's, from what I did read aside from that was very informational.


I think the remainder of my concerns however are more about figuring out a loop layout that would work in my case and just getting user input as far as brand quality and sources. However I am open to any advice/opinions on things I may have missed. Perhaps rule of thumb kind of information pertaining to logic of measurements. Does anyone have tips for such a task? I would like to avoid as much trial and error cuts as possible ie. cutting both ends of the tubing until it eventually fits. For example if I know the tubing needs to come out lets say 2 1/2" from the cpu block to line up with the inlet for my bay reservoir, how much length is lost in a 90° bend? Or is this more a works on paper, not so much in application.

It would really depend on what bend radius you use, example. You use lets say some thing like a glass bottle to make your bend around. It is say 80mm across, your bend radius would be 40mm for a 90 degree bend, you then have to add tube diameter to that. If you are measuring from center or ends depends on how much you add.
It really is easier to measure what you need to make your bend. Then bend alittle past that, cut off alittle more than needed from other side of bend and then sand it down or fine cut from there.
Trial and error will be necessary no matter what.
 

DaaG

Member
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Feb 2, 2007
I'm sorry, misread the location, missed the NEW part of new england. E22 is based in UK, is what i was thinking. Nevermind that then. :facepalm:
 
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MunkyTOS

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Oct 16, 2011
Location
New England
I'm sorry, misread the location, missed the NEW part of new england. E22 is based in UK, is what i was thinking. Nevermind that then. :facepalm:

Its always the thought that counts daag, thank you for all your input.



As a side note just wanted to update.

Safely removed the loop and did what I could to wash it out with boiled water. Anyone have advice what to mix with the water to get at that algae? I saw no way of possibly getting into the res as it looked pretty well sealed. Currently I'm using intel stock hsf (sigh) but the system is back up and running. Hit mid 40's idle at ~3.8ghz so i might go back to stock speeds.

One intermittent issue I noticed after i got everything taken out, managed the cables a bit, and running again was the 120mm fan in the front of my tower was making a whirring noise once it go to full speed. It happened a couple of times so i checked the 3pin to make sure it was securely put in, decided to plug it into a different spot on the fan hub that came with the case. Did it again but after forcing it to stop spinning with my hand and letting it go again, its stopped. Any idea what could cause this? If I had to guess maybe a wobble of some sort?