Milling copper

[Onlypro]

I bought a 2 flute 3/16 endmill to cut out an o-ring groove in my block.

When milling out copper, how many rpms should the spindle be? Also, how deep should my grooves be?

The base of my block 8mm the top is 3mm.

 

[JFettig]

Are you using a manual milling machine?
The O-ring groove varies with the O-ring size, if you rusing standard 1/8"(.139") O-rings, you will need a smaller end mill and maybe take a few passes. I would strongly suggest you skip the O-ring and use silicone or solder if its all copper or brass.

When milling copper, you want to take the rpm as high as you can within limits of the tool. If HSS, about 3500rpm is about the max, and if its carbide or coated carbide, around 12000 is the max.

Jon

 

[slater3333uk]

If you do use a o-ring i found this to help you get the size right. Think it was original posted over at procooling by Hara. No idea if it works but it looks right to me. Ive never use o rings IMO more trouble than there worth.

 

[Onlypro]

I was going to fill the 3/16" channel with the silcon gasket stuff.

The bit is HSS, and I am using a mill/lathe combo.

 

[slater3333uk]

Are you using a plexi top? if you are use a oring (no sealent required)

If you using copper base and copper/aluminum top then just use a bit of gasket sealent (make sure the 2 serfaces are clean and flat first or you will have problems)

Edit: er i see your top is only 3mm. Sounds a little thin to me. Ok if you were to solder the block together but a little to flexable if you was to use the other methods. Still maybe im just being picky

 

[JFettig]

You dont need the groove for silicone. Just put it on the contact surfaces thin, then screw it down.

Is it copper or brass(the top)? if so, solder it for sure.


Jon

 

[Owenator]

If you are going to screw/bolt it together anyway you might try the gasket material I showed in my article here: http://www.overclockers.com/tips1118/ I found it in the plumbing section of HomeDepot but I'm sure it is in other plumbing type stores. Of course, if you are not going to be opening up you block once assembled, you would be better serverd by soldering. One other reason for a removeable top that I've heard is that the thermal conductivity of the copper is changed slightly when you heat it up for soldering. It has to do with metal grain structure changes.

O

 

[Onlypro]

Both top and bottom are copper. the top is more like 3.5mm

 

[JFettig]

Yeah, definately solder, do you know how?

Flux up the surfaces being soldered, heat till the solder melts on the copper, then touch the solder to the joint.


Jon

 

[Onlypro]

I really dont want to solder JF. Couldnt I just use plumbers goop or silicon sealant? I suck bad at soldering... I butchered the first few waterblocks I have made due to my shabby soldering skills.

I bought some of those black round-head bolts that are tightned with an alan key to secure the block together, is that not as good as a soldered deal? I want to be able to open the block so I can clean it. The bolts are 1/4" is that an appropriate size?

I finally found the plumbers goop. It was in the glue section at the Home Depot near me... not in the plumbing section(where I have looked for it for the past few monthes).

 

[HighFlowRod]

I think using an o-ring is better than solder/silicone/gasket.

O Ring Groove Guide

Also, Take a look here.


Just my opinion.