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Modded NB HS/F for DFI NF4 Ultra-D

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Could you take a picture of it?! I wanna see. Maybe I'll do the same with my rig.

My chipset has wires all around it, so definitely my chipset isn't happy right now, and these guys are cooling theirs nicely. I have to start CARING more too!
 
After reading this post & purchasing a DFI Ultra D, I picked up an Iceberg 4 myself.

I didn notice, it did not have ears that needed cutting off, but it did need
a notch & one side trimmed about 1/8". The holes were not quit right & needed
enlarging.

But it works great now. & FITS !

:attn:
 
WarriorII said:
After reading this post & purchasing a DFI Ultra D, I picked up an Iceberg 4 myself.

I didn notice, it did not have ears that needed cutting off, but it did need
a notch & one side trimmed about 1/8". The holes were not quit right & needed
enlarging.

But it works great now. & FITS !

:attn:
Yeah, I couldn't believe how well it fit. It's an awesome mod! :)

The only thing I was concerned about is that the springs don't apply a lot of pressure. I can slide the Iceberg around fairly easily. I guess it doesn't really matter as long as there's good contact right?
 
GV2NIX said:
Yeah, I couldn't believe how well it fit. It's an awesome mod! :)

The only thing I was concerned about is that the springs don't apply a lot of pressure. I can slide the Iceberg around fairly easily. I guess it doesn't really matter as long as there's good contact right?

Honestly, if you ask me... I HATE PIN SPRING! Now, I don't mind springs with bolts, but springs with pins put the worst pressure on a core. Maybe they don't want to crush the core, but I remember my old Gigabyte 6600GT with the same style pin springs would get really hot. After I swapped out the cooling the temps dropped from 85C load to like 50C load.

I hate the crappy mount that spring with pins have.
 
Well, you can easily put a washer or spacer on top of the holes where the pins go through. Then the springs will end up being stiffer.

If you break your core, don't blame me, though! I doubt it will, but just given you the headsup... you nimwit! :D
 
GV2NIX said:
Maybe I should replace the springs with stiffer springs from some pens I have lying around, those seem stiffer.

I ended up stretching the stock springs out, due to the little force they applied to begin with. Affter stretching them to double their stock length, it put a lot more pressure in the HS and now it takes quite a bit of force to move the HS around.
 
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The springs are so weak that I doubt they'd apply enough pressure to break the core even if they were fully compressed...numbskull! :p

Eh, I guess I'll just leave it alone. as long as there aren't any airbubbles and as long as it's seated properly, it should be ok... If temps get crazy, then I'll do something.

Edit: bchur83, that's a good idea. I'm assuming that the springs hold their shape pretty well then? I'll have to do that when I get home! :D
 
They seem to be holding their shape and tension. I figured at the very least, it should work temporarily, but it seems to be fine for long term.
 
bchur83 said:
They seem to be holding their shape and tension. I figured at the very least, it should work temporarily, but it seem to be fine for long term.
Yeah, I would think that would be temporary as well, as they will slowly go back to their normal shape.

You guys should consider putting a spacer. Hmmm... maybe I'll do it... just my case is so nasty and I'm afraid to start pulling things apart (5 hours of work).

Once I get started, I can't stop... I would make it perfect, but I don't have more than an hour straight at a time these days, which SUCKS! Damn girlfriend! :)
 
bchur83 said:
All in all, I started out with load temps of about 50-55C when the stock HS/F worked, and when the stock fain failed, up words of 60C+. After this mod, I am now getting load temps of about 50C or less.

I didnt realise those tiny heatsinks made such a difference to the temperature.
 
masakabassist said:
I didnt realise those tiny heatsinks made such a difference to the temperature.
Well the Iceburg is meant to be a VGA cooler and is considerably bigger than the stock HSF (not to mention that it's made of copper also), so it's really not that tiny, and it's built for performance whereas the stock one is just junk in my opinion. :)
 
GV2NIX said:
Well the Iceburg is meant to be a VGA cooler and is considerably bigger than the stock HSF (not to mention that it's made of copper also), so it's really not that tiny, and it's built for performance whereas the stock one is just junk in my opinion. :)
I have the original Vantec Copper Iceburq. I don't know if that'll work better than the stock DFI tho... it doesn't have fins the way this Iceburq4 does.
 
Temperatures went down a lot for me. Before they were around 60°C (usually high 50s), after mod they're around 40°C: high 30s to low 40s depending on speed of exhaust fan (120mm, usually at 900-1000RPM) and ambient temperature.
With fan sub 30C is pretty possible I think, but it wasn't my point.
Personally I don't care what temperatures there are on chipset - even on stock cooler I hadn't got any problems hitting FSB >300MHz.

Whole mod was just to get rid of that nasty fan. I used to hate it a lot. It was noisy, unefficient and looked like it would break just in month or so. Computer isn't mine - I built it for my brother who doesn't know computer stuff too much and cooling and overclocking are just magic for him. He often has some time-critical projects to do and I wanted to prevent situation when something breaks and he stays without computer - so I replaced stock cooler with passive one. Due to lack of good "plug & play" coolers and good price on this one, I bought it and modded. So here it is :)
 
Ven0m said:
cooling and overclocking are just magic for him.
I don't know why but I found that comment really funny! No offense to your brother, I just though it was an amusing way to describe cooling and oc'ing as it appears non-hardware people. :)

I noticed something about the Iceberq fan. Unlike most fans, it seems especially senstiive to gyroscopic forces. It'll slow down if you tilt it along any axis even if you tilt it pretty slowly. I can imagine that a lot of movement over time might wear out the bearing easily, so that's something to be careful about. I think I'm going to order another one just to have a spare fan handy.
 
:cool: I've got a spare Iceberg 4 around, and I've got a new Ultra-D. :D Sweet! I'm doing this mod as well.

Thanks bchur83!
 
Hey venon how do you have that copper heatsine secured? Im thinking about doing something similar with one of my old copper heatsinks. do you think a dremel will be able to sufficiently cut through the copper.
 
thegrouch said:
do you think a dremel will be able to sufficiently cut through the copper.
Definitely! I used a Dremel for all the work I did including cutting the "ears" off. It's more than enough. As long as you use one of the hard stone grinding/cutting disks, you won't have any trouble cutting through copper! :)
 
thegrouch said:
Hey venon how do you have that copper heatsine secured? Im thinking about doing something similar with one of my old copper heatsinks. do you think a dremel will be able to sufficiently cut through the copper.
I tried lots of tools for modding heatsinks and dremel seems to be the best - highly recommended for copper.

Securing - it's "standard Ven0m's mounting method":
- find machine screws that would fit holes i PCB around chipset
- drill holes in heatsink base to match position of holes in PCB (slighly lower diameter, to use them for screws), I usually drill around 15mm deep (bit goes through base and scratches fins but it's ok)
- tap holes
- use machine screws along with metal washers and non-conductive washers (sometimes with springs, but I haven't used them for this mod). If they're too long, cut them (before cutting, it's recommended to put nut on screw - when you unscrew it, it will fix jaggy edges that you get after cutting), eventually after cutting you may use grinder or file to make end of screw look like before cutting
- tighten them equally and carefully - you don't want broken chip or heatsink moving - a good method is pressing center of heatsink against core, while twisting screws till they go to PCB and give resistance, then make sure that heatsink sits well and use screwdriver to apply 1/4 of turn for one screw, then other, eventually repeat 1-2 times

I usually lap heatsinks to grit 2500. After modding, be sure to clean it not to let any metal fell off on computer parts. I usually wash heatsinks.
 
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