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My 8700k delid summary, 23°C drop in temps.

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OP
DaPoets

DaPoets

Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Yes I can boot 5.3Ghz, I can run most apps at 5.2Ghz, but due to my time I have lately just stayed at 5.1ghz for stability. I'm sure w/ tweaking I can stay at 5.3Ghz as I have a lot of heat headroom.
 

JRZoid

Registered
Joined
Dec 2, 2018
They went well on the 7700ks too. And still got one and one working board. I still think the 2600x was the answer to that, more budget constrained at the moment anyways lol. but yeah at 4.3 that runs a little better than a stock one in some benches lol
 

Zerileous

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2002
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/341758082/ncore-v1-naked-die-cooling-waterblock-designed-by

This is the block I was referring to, I bought 2 of them and so far not received them.

I still think it was a great idea the guy had, but he never delivered what he promised, even if he does ever deliver there will be no need as technology is changing so fast what it was designed for will be obsolete.

So much vaporware on those sites (kickstarter etc), it's a great idea but almost never comes through with an actual product. I think they need to develop some way for "investors" to recuperate costs. I understand that in an honest process a lot of the money raised goes into developed the product and cannot be recuperated, but some sort of oversight or insight into the spending would be nice. At least requiring an in depth expense report from those requesting investment, so you can see what the money raised was spent on, or some oversight into whether the funding goals are actually appropriate for the product.
 

MaddMutt

Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2015
Have you tried pushing beyond 5.1Ghz?

I'm waiting on my new board to be able to get back to benching the i7-8700k. I was not limited by temp but i think more of a power limit at 5.3GHz. Here is a AIDA64 shot at 5.3GHz. This is using a older Corsair H100 with 4 fans @ 150+ CFM :thup: (Delta's)

cachemem@5.3GHz.png
 

Blaylock

"That Backfired" Senior Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2013
Location
Go Blue!
I was just curious as I'm finally getting around to overclocking mine and I'm curious if I should risk killing my warranty.

I've passed [email protected] (1.296v after vdrop) & 85° max temp for 30min aida64engineer using just cpu &fpu. I'm anticipating 5.1 will hit me around 90° which is where I'll likely stop.

I'm noticing about a 6° difference between cores and wondering if a delid will net any real benefit.

Ftr I'm on custom water with a 30mm thick, 360mm rad.
 

JRZoid

Registered
Joined
Dec 2, 2018
Yeah you can be well ahead not lieing..that Clockspeed....but just messing around Occasional game or two..it's worth it...play with low level for awhile lol
 

maxfly

Member
Joined
May 7, 2005
just picked up a 8086k to play with but im not sure ill be delidding it. itll be under water with the loop in my sig so itll be plenty cool. hopefully its not a dog :D seeing the excellent results in this thread makes it really hard not to just delid it from the gitgo!
 
OP
DaPoets

DaPoets

Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
I was just curious as I'm finally getting around to overclocking mine and I'm curious if I should risk killing my warranty.

I've passed [email protected] (1.296v after vdrop) & 85° max temp for 30min aida64engineer using just cpu &fpu. I'm anticipating 5.1 will hit me around 90° which is where I'll likely stop.

I'm noticing about a 6° difference between cores and wondering if a delid will net any real benefit.

Ftr I'm on custom water with a 30mm thick, 360mm rad.


With the cooler you have, you would see at least a 20°C drop in temps which would give you more headroom for faster speeds. Keep in mind that real world differences from 5GHz to 5.3GHz are not noticeable except for slightly higher benchmark scores and self satisfaction. Because the process is so cheap and easy I would do it in a heart beat in your position because who ever actually uses their warranty on these chips anyway. Remember it's not truly yours until you void the warranty.
 
OP
DaPoets

DaPoets

Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
I figured it's time to give an update. I had my Corsair H115i AIO in a push/pull configuration and decided to take off 2 fans and make it just a pull configuration and my temps dropped on idle from ~31°C to 26°C while at 5.1GHz. My load temps dropped as well. I'm sure the answer has to do with air resistance levels and physics but what ever. W/ this I run stable at 5.2GHz w/ max temps at 70°C on Intel stress, prime 95 (1344/1344 FFT checked), and I'm stable at 5.3GHz but my VRM hits 125°C and starts throttling so my performance actually goes down at that point. I'm thinking of removing the VRM heatsink, adding better thermal pads and tightening it down better as I have seen many people doing that w/ these Gigabyte z370 motherboards. At 5.3GHz my 8700k seems to still have a lot of headroom so I may have gotten lucky w/ the lottery. For everyday use I just sit at 5.1GHz and can game for hours on Battlefield V and hit max temps of 65°C after very very long sessions of gaming. Solid processor. I highly recommend going the delid route for the 8700K. It was much much easier that I thought it would be and it only cost me like $25 total.
 
OP
DaPoets

DaPoets

Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
After some more tweaking I'm 100% stable at 5.2GHz w/ 1.41 volts and after throwing prime 95, blender, intel all at it my max temps hit 77°c on core 2 with all the other cores seeming to max out between 70°c - 74°c. My VRM MOS temps hit 123°c and didn't throttle but I have ordered new silicone thermal pads so I'm going to use these and remount those heatsinks. Looking at some youtube videos about the VRM heat issues a lot of people have dropped temps by ~30°c on them just by replacing them.

I have also ordered a copper IHS to replace the intel one for kicks and as my H115i AIO is copper I'm thinking of using liquid metal on it instead of my regular thermal compound.
 
OP
DaPoets

DaPoets

Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Wooow! That's awesome!

Did you order those high end fujiopoly ones?

I was looking at those actually but I bought some $6 cooloo direct soft silicone thermal conductive pads to try it out 1st to make sure I'm on the right path. If my VRM temps drop at least 5°c on max load w/ this cheap stuff then yeah I'll get those expensive pads.
 

EarthDog

Gulper Nozzle Co-Owner
Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Location
Buckeyes!
I mean... ya ordered a copper ihs....why not get those out of the gate :) ! I wond er r if any cheapos are better than stock...(guess we'll see!).

That's toasty for the vrms, lol... thought about active cooling in them?
 
OP
DaPoets

DaPoets

Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
I mean... ya ordered a copper ihs....why not get those out of the gate! :)

That's toasty for the vrms, lol... thought about active cooling in them?

If these pad don't make a difference w/ this Gigabyte z370 motherboard then I'm just going to replace it with a higher end z390 at this point as my office computer could easily use this z370 on the 8th gen i3 it has running.
 

EarthDog

Gulper Nozzle Co-Owner
Joined
Dec 15, 2008
Location
Buckeyes!
Honestly, that's probably best. That isnt their high end vrm and you are pushing some decent voltage through it.

Keep us posted! :)
 
OP
DaPoets

DaPoets

Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Update:

Replacing the thermal pads on my VRM heat-sinks didn't do a damn thing. Going to try active cooling w/ a 120mm fan and try and mount it w/ an "L bracket" to my outlet 120mm fans. It's been cold here in Los Angeles so w/ a cracked window I'm 100% stable on 5.2ghz w/ no throttling and I max out at 99°c on the VRMs when just doing every day stuff like PLEX, gaming, etc, but when I run blender it gets to 120°C so come spring/summer that would fail and hit 125°c throttling me. Will update again after this. Also I'll be installing my copper (very very very heavy) IHS replacing the stock one. Any thoughts if I should go Liquid Metal between the copper IHS and my AIO (which is copper) or just stick w/ my regular high end thermal grizzly compound?
 
OP
DaPoets

DaPoets

Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
I ended up getting two "L Brackets" and attaching a 120mm blue light silent fan to it, pointing air up to 2000RPM right at the VRMs and this fan is surprisingly silent so I don't hear anything from it at 50%. A blender test now shows my VRM maxing out at 108°C which comes to roughly a 15°C drop in temps.

I think w/ the blue light and having colored the brackets black it looks ok.

I snagged a new ASUS AREZ STRIX Radeon RX VEGA 64 8GB OC Edition from a flash sale on Newegg for $349 (Amazon still has this for $749) and it was sooooooo long that I had to put my 140mm fan on my radiator from pull to push and the clearance is like 5 milometers...

20190201_164859.jpg
20190201_143325.jpg
20190201_171829.jpg

- - - Auto-Merged Double Post - - -

So here it is w/ the Antec 1200 case, Corsair H115i Extreme AIO, 8700k delided running at 5.2GHz, VRMs topped out at 108°C w/ the active cooling, Vega 64 barely fitting, 64GB DDR4 3000MHz and roughly 14TB of storage.

20190201_171743 (1).jpg
 
OP
DaPoets

DaPoets

Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Today I swapped my IHS with an aftermarket copper IHS from Rockit Cool. This thing is VERY heavy for an IHS. I re-applied liquid metal to my 8700k, the bottom of the Copper IHS from Rocket Cool, and used Kryonaut Thermal Grizzly for the top of the copper IHS to my copper plated Corsair H115i extreme AIO. On prime95 for 15 minutes my 6 cores seem to have results ranging from +1°C to -5°C. Basically 1 core is 1°C hotter at max temp and all the others are 3°C - 5°C cooler. Basically it seems to be spreading the heat around more evenly as my cores are all w/ in 3°C of each other where before I was about 6°C of a range from each other high to low.

Overall adding the copper IHS was a fun hobby time exercise for $14 to get a few degrees cooler. I guess this was more of a "can I do it" type of thing rather than anything that will give me large results.

I will upgrade probably to the Gigabyte Z390 Master for it's impressive VRM cooling but 1st my 11 year old Corsair TX750W Power Supply needs to be upgraded. It says it has a 100,000 hour life and well, I just hit that so better to replace it before I have issues.