my new copper blocks

[Liss]

went to my teacher (tech) and asked to use his drill press and other tools.. he said sure..

so this is wut i got during lunch periods of work..

the block on the left is going to be cut in half to be a gpu and chipset block...

and the block on the right is gonna by my cpu block..


tomm gonna use the schools blow torch to solder it.. and tap the holes for the babrs..

gonna be sweet.

-edit- for the cpu block.. it looks like the 2 channels are connected.. but the pic is wrong.. its like a very thin (.5mm) wall

 

[juliendogg]

cool liss! lookin good. how deep are your channels? and is the bottom a seperate piece like you'd talked about before? looks like one piece yes? man i wanna get my hands on a drill press!

 

[Liss]

yea.. i kinda forgot to buy the bottom piece.. so its 1 piece plus the top....

i did it by eye.. cause somebody stole the bolt that measures depth on the press..

 

[JFettig]

that looks real good man! make sure to tap them before you solder them! and dont go too high on the blow torch, youll melt it, those torches are 5000+degreesF copper melts ar like 2000 or something i think...

 

[Liss]

will do.. i'll post new progress pics agian tomm

 

[JFettig]

awesome


Jon

 

[The Spyder]

nice block~ not worried about channels degrading over time? (i know just use WW~ i but i find a "finished" interior always helps liek the sandblasting that DD uses~ rather ignore what i said rather then nice... )
Spyder

 

[Molybdym]

Does it help to have perfetly smooth channels in the block, or a rough, i.e. sandblasting finish. The roughed up inards would increase surface area(on a microscopic scale) and would cause turbulence, but won't that cause bubbles to form?

p.s. I have no idea what I'm speaking of, only going on my brain.

 

[country_3030]

I thought about takeing a wire brush and scuffingit up.

 

[NeoMoses]

unless the water is moving very quickly there shouldn't be any bubbles formed (Cavitation).

 

[beezee]

looks pretty good, one question though.... can you show a pic in which you plan the water to be flowing on the cpu block? It looks like it might be slightly restricted due to the crossing of possible water paths.... although that might be good because it would do that right about where the core is, giving it a tad bit more time to transfer heat into the h20?

 

[Liss]

for the cpu block.. it looks like the 2 channels are connected.. but the pic is wrong.. its like a very thin (.5mm) wall

the 2 paths do not cross...

 

[Liss]

alright.. need help..
the gaps between the holes arent big enough (where 2 holes connect)

do i just use a carbide wheel to grind it down?

-edit- wut would be the easiest/fastest/cheapest way?

 

[Eclypsyr]

looks pretty sweet man, especially for just doing it by eye, be sure to post finished products, I am very interested
-Dae-

 

[Cheesy Peas]

im thinkin of doin the same, how much did it cost you for materials?

 

[Liss]

just the copper..
cost like.. um..
8us under the table (only the cu in pic)

 

[Liss]

alright.. need help..
the gaps between the holes arent big enough (where 2 holes connect)

do i just use a carbide wheel to grind it down?

-edit- wut would be the easiest/fastest/cheapest way?

bumpity!

also.. is anyone have any comments about me using copper tubing as hose fittings instead of barbs.. cause i'm goonna need 8 barbs.. and thats going to cost me 30cad.. (which i dont' want to spend cause i'm saving for a new phone)

 

[The Spyder]

its fine to use copper tubing~ and a grinding wheel should work~ just soild realy well...........

 

[JFettig]

cooper tubing will work Great! you can rig it to have the same ID as the hose and make it work well!

 

[Liss]

but its harder to lap the top surface wen the hose fittings are removable..
man.. all i want to a prutty wb