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My new rig, not 56k friendly.

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It only took 3-4 hours, not really a big deal in the grand scheme of things. Right now I'm tyring to see what I can get the CPU to post at. I can find my windows keys, but not my discs... that's aggravating.
 
That's about the right bleed time - 45 min to the "micro-bubble" stage. Those take a while to clean out completely. It's a little late now but shutting off the rig for 10 min or so helps.

If you want a slightly faster bleed next time get a 1/2x1/2x3/4" copper T and, since you're using 7/16" tubing, add a couple of short pipe lengths to the 1/2" sides. It's tough for any bubbles to get past that 3/4" T and it holds about half as much water as a MicroRes so, IMO it's the best of both worlds ... :)
 
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Actually, I did that too. Just made sense, let the bubbles settle and get bigger again, they float up the t-line faster.

edit: I was able to get under the desk and snap a pic. You can see the cables behind the tubes in some spots, it's a bit clearer than the camera makes it look. And that is actually up and running, even though the memory cooler looks still.

case12.jpg


No wire management at all yet, but I'm not ready to do that at this point.
 
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What lind of paint did you use?
i wish i would have went that far with my TT armor as to paint it, looks amazing.
 
LuciferFox said:
why are you covering all the lines with that anti kink stuff? just a personal preference?

Another thing to note. Before I put the anti-kink coils on, the line between the pump and the videocard was kinked in 4 places. I pulled the card out to straighten it, put the coils on, and no more kinks. Those things are definitely a wise investment.

p.s. It is looking great I have though about just a flat black no frills setup but with ultimate performance, but before that can happen i must get money!
 
why are you covering all the lines with that anti kink stuff? just a personal preference?

As EmAn quoted, because I had kinks in my lines. There were a bunch just between the pump and the gpu block, another kink on the line between the 120 rad and the cpu block, and probably 2 between the cpu block and the 240 rad but I didn't bother spending the time to check and put the coils on anyway. I could have just used a couple extra inches of tubing here and there, but I'd rather just spend a few bucks for the anti-kink coils and go that route. As for doing everything, aside from making it looks a bit more uniform(instead of having lines here and there without them, or only covering part of a line, etc) and it's not like I was gonna save the extra length of coils I had for something else.

Besides, I paid 7.98 for 80 inches at frozencpu, that's pretty cheap. Maybe not the best price on coils, but cheap in general.



And I posted what paint I used farther up in the thread, one of the cans is in a pic too. It's really not that hard to get a decent looking finish with spraypaint. Just gotta remember lots of light coats instead of 1-2 heavy coats. It may take longer, but it'll look better. Now a gloss finish... that's a tedious job of sanding between coats I was not going to bother with.
 
Here's a pic of the backside of the mesh panel so you can see how it was that I attached it in place of the window. Those gray wads are the epoxy putty, and it's quite secure. The original bits used to hold the window in place are also covered in epoxy putty to help anchor it in place.

case13.jpg


It looks fugly, but it won't be seen when it's on the case.
 
FINISHED!

Not the best wire management, but it gets the job done

wires_back.jpg

wires_inside.jpg


And now, the whole long tiring annoying, but fruitful endeavor is done for now:

side_finished.jpg

front_finished.jpg
 
3.87ghz @1.52v 35 idle 58 loaded with orthos. Can't get past 3.87 no matter the voltage, and it's not FSB related either.
 
You're going to love the water, keeps everything nice and cool. Looks fabulous for your first time going water. You truely should consider a res, maybe in the future. It is amazing how fast it bleeds the air out. What takes you 3 to 4 hours will turn it into 3 to 4 min, cept for micro bubbles of course. And squeezing the tubing gets rid of most of those, the rest can work their way out whenever. Once you get the pump to kick in with a steady input of water, which is why you want the res feeding the pump, it pushes all air to the res in a heartbeat without re-introducing it back into the loop. Just a thought for a future upgrade is all.
 
straightforward loop, especially for a first timer. It sure looks a lot better than my first loop (laughs to myself at the memory...).

I would have probably used a t instead of a Y for the drain so that the pump flow isn't pushing directly into the drain, but that is a minor thing.
 
I thought about that, but due to the placement it seemed it'd be easier to use the Y and then pull the drain outside the chassis, where a T would mean I'd have to bend the drain to keep it in a normal position(possibly putting extra stress somewhere).
 
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