Need help getting my i3 550 >= 4.5Ghz

[Largo_npc]

Lo guys.

Just got a new system and I want to put it to the max I can with OCing.

My current system is:
i3 550
P7P55D-E
CoolIt Eco ALC 120m CPU cooler
8GB DDR3 1600 w/ Heatsink (I'm using borrow memory from a friend atm until I decide what memory to get. ATM it's Kingston HyperX. Soon it will be G.Skill RipJaw)
GTX 460

I tried pushing the system to 4.5 but got BSODs under load.
The biggest issue I have with OCing is the voltage. I'm still not sure how to link and judge what voltages to use, so it's mostly guess work for me in that part.
Anyway, here's a Screenshot just before it gave me a BSOD.


I was using Intel Burn Test to start off with for a quick test, but noticed it wasn't using 100% CPU, so switched to Prime95. 5 mins later I got a BSOD.

My settings in BIOS were:

Multiplier: 24
BLCK: 190
DRAM Freq.: 1440Mhz

CPU Voltage: 1.375
IMC: 1.275
DRAM: 1.5625
CPU PLL: 1.8875
PCH: Auto

Any advice would be great.

I've OC'd to 4.3 and it's stable!
The settings for my stable 4.3Ghz are:
180 x 24
Dram: 1440
CPU Voltage: 1.34375
IMC (Not sure what this is): Auto
DRAM V: 1.5625
CPU PLL (again, not sure if this is QPI Voltage): 1.8875
PCH: Auto

It runs at around 60° in RealTemp at 100% load with a TJMax of 105.

Am I correct in assuming that the i3 550 TJ Max is 72.6 degrees? I set an offset of -23 in Core Temp and I'm running at around 36 degress on full load after 20 hours. I'm not sure which is correct.

Anyway, I want to try to get a stable 4.5 OC now and possibly more, so any help would be greatly appreciated.
I messed with the ratio and multiplier. I've seen people getting around 4.8 on this CPU with an FSB of 200-215. I've not been able to find the voltages I should set though.
The closest I've got so far is 4.5 (Which shown as 4.9 in Windows) but it locked up after 10 mins of Prime95.

 

[SamSaveMax]

For IBT, you must manually change "Threads" from Auto to 4....for all 4 threads to be stressed.

Stability? Try move volts and VTT.

 

[fishys87]

Is this for a 24/7 OC or for benchmarking?

 

[Largo_npc]

I don't use IBT anymore, been using prime95 since taking that screenshot.

This is my home machine which I use mainly for gaming. The OC is more about learning for me.
I'm worried about voltages. I don't want to damage anything as there's no way I can afford to replace it.
If I up the voltages much more, they turn red in the BIOS!

 

[Grief]

I am stable with my i5 650 (same ting once i turn of turbo) and 4.2GHz and 1.32Vcore,
4.4GHz, dosent get stable until 1.45V for some reason and at 4.8GHz, i can boot up windows at 1.5250Vcore. Once you got past 4.2 /4.3GHz, the voltage needs dont increase linearly.

 

[fishys87]

I don't use IBT anymore, been using prime95 since taking that screenshot.

This is my home machine which I use mainly for gaming. The OC is more about learning for me.
I'm worried about voltages. I don't want to damage anything as there's no way I can afford to replace it.
If I up the voltages much more, they turn red in the BIOS!

Anything under 1.40 would be fine for a 24/7 OC. If you want to run that high, is up to you. I only go to 4.4+ for benchmarking, which may be once a week, for a hour or two.

 

[Badbonji]

The voltage required never increases linearly. It is always exponential. The only reason a small bump in voltage is generally needed to get to 4GHz as the stock voltage is not the lowest possible stable voltage in nearly all cases.

I personally will go up to 1.4Vcore as long as temperatures are ok. Some people will run up to 1.45Vcore though for 24/7 oc and I haven't seen anyone have trouble with it. However this CPU is on 32nm so I wouldn't recommend going above this 1.45V.

The QPI voltage is called VTT not PLL. For this I would think it should be more or less ok at stock due to the fact that the memory is being underclocked.

 

[Largo_npc]

Thanks for the advice. I'll try messing with the voltages then to find a decent OC. I think my 4.3OC was very good though. I built the machine, straight into BIOS, OC'd to 4.3 then installed windows and tested it and it was perfectly stable first time.
If I can't hit 4.5, I'll just work on lowering the voltages on this 4.3 OC while keeping it stable.

 

[87dtna]

I think it's probably the VTT (or IMC) voltage that needs more rather than the Vcore. You are up to 190 base clock now, for most of my I3's and I5 clarkbars that I had once I got around 200 base clock I needed about 1.35 VTT. If you are at 1.275 now, try going to atleast 1.32 or maybe just take it straight to 1.35. If it's still not stable, than it is probably the Vcore. For benching I'd feel comfortable going to 1.45 Vcore, but for daily use I wouldn't go more than 1.375. Maybe you can get 4.4ghz stable at 1.375.

Also, what ram do you have? You said you were running at 1440mhz, but what timings? Do you only have 1333 ram? If so it may also be causing the issue. Also, most ram is 1.65v, but you said you were running 1.56v. If it's 1600mhz ram, it might have been fine until you got to 1440 so you just need to bump the voltage up to correct spec.

Last, on the temps....the TJmax that real temp gives is the CORE temp, the figure that intel gives, the 72c figure, is the actual CPU temp max. CPU temp is typically atleast 30c lower than the core temp on air cooling. So the TJ max at 105c is fine, your temps are VERY good and plenty safe.

 

[Largo_npc]

All my memory is 1600. IT's currently Kingston HyperX 4x2GB 1600 and will soon be replaced with 2x4GB G.Skill RipJaw 1600.

I got the closest to 4.5 yet over the weekend. It was good for 25 ins but then locked up.
I can't remember if I tried the IMC voltage though. I have a note somewhere.

I'm also going to remove the heatsink and apply some Noctua NT-H1 I got from work. I think that stuff is better than the stuff which comes stock on that cooler. Although I know the stock stuff is still good stuff.

Do you think the memory will be ok above 1600?

 

[Largo_npc]

Forgot to add. I've not messed with timings as I've not learnt the link there so I don't know what to do.

Just tried another OC which failed just after I took this screenshot:


Settings were
24x189
DRAM Freq.: 1504Mhz
CPU: 1.38125
IMC: 1.3375
DRAM: 1.65
PLL: 1.8875

Now trying a slightly different way which is resulting in me getting 4.6Ghz.
These are the current settings:
23x200 (24x200 instantly BSOD on Windows load)
DRAM Freq.: 1600
CPU: 1.38125
IMC: 1.35
DRAM: 1.65
PLL: 1.8875

EDIT: Fail
Dropped multiplayer to 22 and DRAM to 1.6. Trying again!

 

[Grief]

4.6GHz is going to need 1.4V+ to get stable, stay at 4 or 4.2GHz, you dont need more for a 24/7 OC.

 

[Largo_npc]

Got it to 4.4Ghz Stable now with the memory at 1600 and the timings changed from 9-9-9-24 to 8-9-8-24.
I'm happy with it as it is now. I guess I'll have to accept that this is the best I can safely get with my set up.

Games are running nicely on it.
I do get some slowdown when the desktop starts to load but I think one of my HDDs are failing which could be the cause of that.
The main thing is that I understand OCing much more now! Thanks for all the helps

EDIT: Windows shows 4.8 for some reason. It seems to think my multiplier is 24 :/

 

[Grief]

Yeah, it reads stock multi. And did you stress test it? The frezze at startup is because your PC is adjusting to the new clocks and performance etc. It should stop after 1 or 2 reboots. If it's stable ofc.

 

[Largo_npc]

Ofc. I put it on Prime for 2 hours just to test it was more stable than the others. I then altered the memory timings and did a quick pass on memtest then tested with a game as for some reason when I got 4.4 stable before, it made games lag. This time was ok.
I've left it on Prime now for a 24 hour stress. Hopefully all is ok.

Is there any way to stop Windows detecting the 24 multiplier?

 

[Grief]

No i guess there is not. Good job with the OC, what are the idle and load temps, what cooling do you have?

 

[-=Mr_B=-]

I'm worried about voltages. I don't want to damage anything as there's no way I can afford to replace it.

Just thought i'd say it. If you cant afford to break it, don't play with it. There is always the chance that something will go "Hey dude, wtf, i wont put up with this" and crap out on you.
And regardless of if you poked voltages or not, warranty is void.
Also. My gaming system is a E8400. There is no way in hell you'r not getting enough CPU power from a I3 550.
B!

 

[Largo_npc]

Just thought i'd say it. If you cant afford to break it, don't play with it. There is always the chance that something will go "Hey dude, wtf, i wont put up with this" and crap out on you.
And regardless of if you poked voltages or not, warranty is void.
Also. My gaming system is a E8400. There is no way in hell you'r not getting enough CPU power from a I3 550.
B!

Which is why I came here to get advice before I screwed anything up.
I know my CPU at stock would have been more than fine for gaming, but I wanted to OC and learn how to do it properly. Hence this thread.


Idle temp is around 28 on one core and 31 on the other. Load temps are 60 and 62.
I'm using the CoolIt Eco ALC 120mm. It's a nice bit of kit tbh. Would certainly recommend it.

 

[-=Mr_B=-]

There are 2 reasons the CPU manufacturer doesn't clock the CPU higher to start with. Well, 3 really.
First, they cant warrant that it actually is stable at higher speeds. (Simply due to instability)
Second, they cant promise that it's going to survive at higher speeds. (Hot spots getting close to determined critical temps)
Third, they ran out of lower speed core's and droped in a cores from a higher speed bin to meet demand. (These are the reason some Sspec overclock better then others. They really are higher speed versions to start with, so to speak.)
The second and third case isn't exactly a problem. The first one could pretty much give you a dead CPU at a 5% overclock. And there really are no way to know in advance.
B!

 

[Largo_npc]

FYI:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1667220