Need some advice on a new WC setup!

[Jackyl]

I was going to order this stuff this morning. but instead I'm going to hold off for a day and see what you guys think. Maybe some other ideas that may yeild better results.

I have a P4 2.4c @ 3.4 with a heatpipe 101 and a vantec tornado 92mm, Abit AI7, 1 gig Gskill (pc4400), 6800GT@ultra speeds. Pcpower and cooling 425 psu. I currently run the following temps.

inside case: 80.6f
pwm temp: 86.0f
cpu: 109.4f


Now for the wc components that I want to get.

Rad: swiftech "hwlabs" pro II dual 120 "I got a below cost deal for a new one"
cpu: Swiftech mcw6000-P "I know this is a restrictive block"
pump: Fluid XP + Magnum Pump "conventional port"
res: 2x Danger Den filler ports. "I plan to put on on the top of the case and one on the bottom of the case, so when I purge the system, all I have to do is just uncap both and dump in distilled water to clean out the system and everything comes out the bottom of the case, instead of dealing with a resivoir"
coolant: Distilled water and water wetter
Hose's: 3/8" ID hose.


I'm not new to watercooling my rig. But I remember alot of people switching to 1/2ID instead of 3/8". I have always run 3/8" hose.

Just wondering if anyone see's a problem with this setup or has any other options to go with. I want that cpu block. and I will also be cooling my nb with my custom made maze block.

 

[Jackyl]

WoW, No replies. I must not have a bad choice of parts then I'm just trying to figure out what I want to go with 1/2 or 3/8. 1/2 will give me flow "volume" while 3/8 will give me pressure. This little pump is only 135gph though. So I would like to think that it would be enough to do the cpu and northbrige. I'm waiting for some replies though before I order. Just want to see how far off base I am. Anyone else running this pump ?

 

[Tat2monsta]

lol i did this lastweek.. i added a list of stuff i was gonna get.. didn't get any responce. so i changed my list and just bought it all anyway. luckily for me.. i did ok out of it. the only stuff in your list that i am familiar with .. is the fill ports.. i got one the other day. they really nicely made apart from the plastic nut.. it sux try and replace it. all the thread on mine was messed up and chipped and the hole wasn't even central.. as for tubing. im using 7/16 and 1/2 id on 1/2 barbs.The 7/16 fits real tight to the barbs when heated up in warm water. no need for clamps (im using them anyway) only reason im using to two sizes is. because im using a 3 barbed block. and wasn't such a tight bend while using the thinner stuff on the top barb. im using the d5 pump.. not to sure on the spec of it.. but its doing fine.sooo quiet!. i wanna add more blocks soon.
soz about the not very informative reply.. but im new to WC myself... but yeah go with the filports. they look nice and do the job. i also used a little PTFE tape on mine just to seal them up some more before fitting and ive only ever heard good stuff about swiftec.. i thought about using them od DD but ended up getting a polarFLO TT and im more than happy with it.....good luck m8

 

[Jackyl]

Thanks man. I posted on a few other boards and have already received responses. I'll post back here once I figure out what I'm going to do.

 

[Jackyl]

Hey guys, ended up going with this for a rad and fans. I think that it will serv me much better in the future when I decide to go sli And using my pondmaster pump should have enough power to have a nice flowrate.

I was going to pick up a storm from frozencpu but the 1/2" are out. same with the DD acetel gpu blocks. But the 3/8" are instock. So I'm either going to wait or just get the 3/8's and convert them Either way I'm set on a radiator now

 

[Jackyl]

Can anyone tell me why every pic that I see of a water cooled system that is cooling the cpu and gpu show the flow going Pump>rad>cpu>gpu>pump. I wanted to go pump>rad>y-splitter>gpu/cpu>Y-splitter>rad>pump. This way both blocks are getting equally cooled water instead of pre-heated water from the cpu into the gpu block. But I'm using a pondmaster 500gph pump. Does it even matter? Will the water be in the block long enough for it to heat up enough to affect how it cools the gpu?

I also though about using dual Fluid XP Magnum Pumps . I would use one on each end of the loop. So one pushing and one pulling. Is it worth the extra 100+ compared to just using my pondmaster 500gph pump?

I can't beleive that I ended up with like 3 questions that I pondered on for like 3 hours without internet access and my computer is in peices sitting all over the shop tool crib I forgot the stock ram heatsink for the 6800 GT so I decided to call it a night. and I had to let the silicone dry on the pump fittings.

I'm after the best solution with the hardware that I have. If it's a known fact that dual 135gph pumps will perform better with the water blocks that I have and the rad and fans then I will ditch the pondmaster in favor of a better pump setup. And what about the series vs parallel tubing? I have this gut feeling that either series is ok with a high flow rate or parallel just sucks and isn't worth the hassle.

Either way let me know. I've been reading the stickies but I haven't seen anything other than pump heat, flow rate, and everything other than my questions being answered

 

[clocker2]

Splitting the loop is generally a bad idea.
Water doesn't know or care what your intent is, it will simply seek out the path of least resistence (in your case, one of the blocks) and try to go there first.
In other words, balancing the flow will be a problem.

Twin pumps is overkill unless you have two separate loops, IMO.

The order of blocks in the loop hardly matters so go with the setup that gives you the best (i.e., shortest, least curved) tube runs.

In a perfect world you would use 3/8" tubing over 1/2" barbs (the ID of most 1/2" barbs is very close to .375" anyway, so you are really keeping the loop's ID consistent), but that can be a very difficult install.
I'd like to try the 7/16" stuff as recommended by Tat2monsta, but I have a gripload of 1/2" Tygon to use up first.

 

[Sneaky]

well look at that! another wisconsinite!


i got a few things to say for your system, but i gotta leave to get to school right now - so you'll have to wait until 3:05 for another reply

 

[clocker2]

well look at that! another wisconsinite!

I was born in Wisconsin (Menomonie)...does that count?
A round of Leinenkugels for the house!

 

[Jackyl]

Clockers, I pass on the leine's for a Big Ole' can of Foster's OYE!!

Well I'm done with this build! I actually got everything into my UV acralic midtower. *phew*

I ended up just going with my pondmaster 500gph pump. I mounted it in a way that the flow of the front case fan blows right over the pump to help with cooling. And it actually works I honestly cannot beleive the temps though!!!!


Before with Thermaltake Pipe 101 hs. and vantec tornado 92mm / 6800GT with artic cooler / temps:

specifics to hardware in sig.
IDLE LOAD
Cpu: 110-115f 120-130f -Air
Gpu: 51c 65-75c -Temps

Cpu: 98.6f 100-107f -Water
Gpu: 36c 40-41c -Temps

Abient case temp: 77f 89-95f
PWM temps: 89f - 102f

I'm still at the same speeds that I was when I was on air. BUT I WAS ACTUALLY ABLE TO BOOT @ 3.6 AND 3.7 AND 3.8GHZ!!!!!! into windows!!!! use apps and watch them either bsod or kick back to the desktop. I beleive that I have either hit a wall with the memory or board. memtest fails when I try to go 300fsp or 309fsb or 317fsb. But it still allows me to boot, and no matter what voltages I go I can't get memtest to pass.

I was also able to get my gpu core up to 435 now instead of 415 max on air. and the memory up to 1180 instead of 1100. Not much I know but the temps are consistant and it just amazes me how cool it stays even under a very hard load.

Now on with the pics

I just need to pick up 3 120mm fan grills and this one is done. Now I can't wait for the upgrade and another DD maze4 block for sli in this case with a amd 64.

Let me know what you guys think.

Does anyone know of any uv reactive dye that is ok to use with the storm? In the storm manual it states that you shouldn't use uv reactive dye because there is little particles that may clog the jets. I want something UV yellow or UV green.

 

[Jackyl]

<--I had a leaky fitting here, some tape and time and alot of silicon and I finally got it sealed up

 

[Jackyl]