New build - Salvaging oldtimer stuff.

[Sokonomi]

Hello all,

Ive been lurking this forum for a while, while sitting on an egg to hatch.
And now that the time has finally come that I have enough budget to splurge on a new machine,
I have decided to shoot off some questions and gauge some opinions on what I am thinking about doing.

First, I'll unload the specs of the system I want to build as soon as I figure things out.

The computer:

• Case : Phanteks Enthoo Primo Ultimate
  
  Nice and roomy double decker case, ample space for upgrades down the road,
  even spacious enough to house two quad sized radiators (top and bottom).
  Has a built in dampened pump mount, as well as a reservoir bracket.​
• M.B : Asus Maximus VII Formula
  
  A real powerhouse of features, and a good looker too, with the ROG plating.
  Has FET watercooling ability built in, letting you carry even more heat out of the system.​
• PSU : Corsair RM850
  
  Modular, so easy to add some good looking wire mesh, no pointless extra wires.
  Has a nice little gimmick where it shuts off the fan completely if it has a low load.​
• GPU : MSI GeForce GTX 980 4GB GAMING 4G
  
  This one might change, as there are rumors about an 8GB version hitting the market soon.​
• CPU : Intel i7-4790K
  
  Biggest headache of this whole build. LGA 1150 or 2011 was a hard decision.
  But due to me playing around with video editing/recording a lot, this family seemed to suit me best.​
• RAM : Gskill Trident X F3-2400C10Q-32GTX
  
  I just guessed this one, honestly. Is it good?​
• SSD : Samsung 1TB Evo 840
  
  Bloody fast, bloody big, and bloody expensive!
  Running two 500GBs in raid0 apparently provides no real speed boost.​

If any of this seems odd to you, please do tell, I'd love to hear your suggestions!

So now the knitty gritty; The watercooling business.

To mix things up a bit, I have a 20 year old box of sadness I salvaged from my attic.
In this box there are some old fossils of a watercooling project I never actually started,
back when I was still a teenager with a Pentium 4 and an old GPU relic I cant even remember.
The blocks are probably a complete write-off since they already show oxidation.

Though one thing could still be of some use from this box of old crud; a radiator. (pic2)
240x120mm, about 50mm thick so I think it classifies as a double.
Box says Aquacomputer Airplex Evo 120/240, coppercore, G1/4" barbs preinstalled.
Might this radiator be of some use on a system that should be quiet?
Perhaps as a secondary radiator, mounted up front/side without fans directly on it?
The high fincount makes me think it would be a noisy rad if it had any fans directly on it..

I also have some considerable length of hose, a good 5 meters of it.
It seems to be PVC (very stiff), the size is 10mm ID, 14mm OD.
Would it be wise to still use this, considering its ripe old age of 20 years?
Still feels decent, but if theres a risk it starts sweating coolant all over, it would be bad.

I also got a bunch of these.
Originally intended to crimp the hose onto some barbs,
though I think using compression fittings would look better.
Could still use a pair to fit that old radiator into the loop I suppose.

Here's what I have penciled in for my watercooling kit sofar:

• CPU block : XSPC RayStorm CPU WaterBlock - Intel 115x, 1366 and 2011
  
  Has good flow rate and excellent cooling properties, plus it lights up nice.​
• GPU block : XSPC Full Cover Razor GTX 980 Waterblock
  
  Not much choice for full cover blocks on 980 cards yet, so might as well stick with same brand.​
• Reservoir : XSPC Dual Bay* DDC Reservoir ONE - Multi Fascia
  
  Large bay window, so gets a good look at the liquid, easy to fill and mount up high.​
• Pump : XSPC / Laing DDC-1T Plus Ultra 3.2 (18W) - MOTOR
  
  Motor only, fits the tank above, 600lph and a head delivery of 4.7m.​
• Radiator : Black Ice Nemesis Radiator GTS 560 XFlow - Black
  
  The belly of the beast, huge 4x120mm surface, low density 16 fin-per-inch, so should be quiet.
  Has an X-flow layout, so GPU would output in the back, and it would come up to the reservoir again in the front.​
• Fans : Yate Loon 120mm D12SL-12 - 1350 RPM
  
  Four of them, low RPM since large radiator surface shouldn't require a lot of push.​
• Biocide : 10ml Pulse Modding PM Nuke Concentrated Biocide
  
  To kill the critters!​
• Anticorrosion : Anticorrosive AntiCorro-Fluid 50ml
  
  Not sure if necessary, but id hate for my blocks to get weird reactions.​
• Fluid : Mayhems Aurora 2 - Red 1000ml
  
  I guess I need 3 of these? Is that enough?
  Also not sure if I should use a dyed fluid, would white aurora + red tubing be better?​

I wont bore you with the small stuff, like compression fittings and hoses and valves and sensors.

As a tank/pump alternative I was thinking of this one.
Its got the pump built in, with a whopping 750lph throughput,
though head delivery is only 1.8m which worries me.

I'm wondering if I should use that Mayhems Aurora fluid.
It looks damn cool, though I fear it might gunk up my blocks?
Some people even claim its bad if you intend to run daily (should be used as showcase fluid only?)

Anyways, thats all my plans laid out, and if you haven't died of boredom from reading this wall of text,
id love to hear any and all input you guys would like to offer!

 

[GTXJackBauer]

to OCFs!

Thank you for taking the time and creating a detailed post that will help us assist you better.

First of, your parts list looks good but I will say, the top of the line socket that invloves video editing and the likes is the 2011-E socket. The consumer end is still good and the one you chose is fine as well but if you really want the best of the best than 2011-E is your friend. Only problem is the pricing will jump and DDR4 (new to the platform) will be very costly, especially for the amount you would look for. So think it through but some will say the CPU you have now is fine but to get the best, you will pay.

As for the water cooling, I don't know if I would use the old gear as the designs have drastically have changed as has the materials used in some way. Don't know if that stuff has aluminum in it but there's a chance the internals might have. If you're going to spend top dollar on components, might as well do the same for H20. Remember the higher the fin count the higher the fan speed needs to be so in the end you'll have a noisy system which I think defeats the purpose of water cooling when you could have stayed with air cooling.

Please take the time and read up a bit of our water cooling stickies to refresh your memory as it is shown in your listings for water cooling. Colored fluid will eventually gunk up and stain your stuff. You'll need to do complete tear downs every 2-3 months just to keep it somewhat tamed. If you want color, get PrimoChill Advanced LRT tubing with the color of your choice. Distilled water and a biocide is all you need.

XSPC is a great band for starters. Take a look at the DDC variant, MCP-35x for your pump.

Overall your stuff looks good.

 

[Sokonomi]

Hey, and thanks for welcoming me! You all seem pretty friendly around here.

Yeah, personally I too feel the 1150 socket is starting to look like old business, but I wasn't sure the whole 2011 thing with incredibly expensive DDR4 would be worth it. And apparently having more cores doesn't really mean a whole lot yet since a lot of apps and games dont even utilize them. I'm not sure which socket you mean by 2011-E (v3?), but I haven't seen any 2011 CPU that had GPU capabilities sofar?

Ill have to take a closer look at the box the radiator came in, but I think it said something about all copper tubing and somethingsomething soldering. My german is a bit rusty. :') If I can find out if its safe to use with copper loops, would you think its worth considering as a secondary radiator, one that only has a little redirected airflow coming from the front intake of my case? I figured it might be interesting to have a preliminary high dissipation radiator in the loop, if the pump can chug it. The 480 radiator I intend to use apparently has a low fincount, so fans with lower static pressure should suffice. Not sure what RPM/pressure I should be looking at yet though.

Ive been snooping around on some of the stickies, I guess its best to stay away from the aurora additive, as attractive as it looks. If you can barely see the water chugging, having an open window bay reservoir loses its charm a little, but its better than ruining your blocks I suppose. I wonder if you can get bay reservoirs with a built in flow meter, so I could get some movement going, perhaps with some colored film sticker across the window.

And are you talking about the swifttec MCP35X? That thing is staggeringly more expensive though, up in the triple digits. Whats so special about it? PWM control?

Meanwhile I came up with this loop.
In another topic I expressed my worry about water flowing back from the radiator if mounted up top, but people were quick to dispel that concern. Id still prefer the big rad at the bottom though, for aesthetic reasons, but the hot air would end up being blown back in the case so that might not be such a good idea. So I came up with this loop instead. It starts at the reservoir, a regular 2 bay tank with a built in pump should suffice I hope. Then there's a 480 rad up top with 4 pull fans on it, giving it a good cool-down before it flows through the motherboards FET banks. After that, it hits the CPU and GPU in a straight bee line down to the bottom of the chain. From there it hits a 240 rad (the high fincount one, if its deemed safe) aimed to vent out the side of the case while being cooled by the two front fans via a big flexible plate that I would mount in there to deflect the airflow at a 90' angle (so air goes in the front, out the side). And from there it gets shoved back in the reservoir, obviously. Darker hose is going around back out of sight.

There would be two floor fans sucking air in through the (filtered) bottom, too. The rear exhaust fan might be moot at this point, as there's no front to back airflow happening, just bottom to top. I'm not sure what would happen with case pressure though, as there would be more output fans than input ones, but I suppose I could equalize that by taking heed while choosing fan speeds.

I got some fancy ideas about wrecking some of those cheap electronic tea light candles to drive some of the LEDs ill be putting on my GPU/CPU blocks (make them look like kindling ember), but thats just icing. I got to figure out the cake recipe first.

Thanks sofar for helping me! Its much appreciated!

 

[GTXJackBauer]

Yes, the 2011-v3. My apologies for any mix up.

Have a look at Martinsliquidlab for more info on rads, fans, pumps and waterblocks. He's done a phenomenal job for the water cooling community and has blessed us with tons of reviews on these parts.

There's one reservoir with a moving device but looks silly for a flow indicator and there's other reservoirs that have that extra "bling" factor. One of my favorites is the Monsoon Series Two reservoir. You could mount a single pump to it whether it be a DDC or D5 variant and has LEDs built into it to give it an ambiance effect of the color of your choice.


The MCP has the PWM control as one of its main features and has the 2nd best head pressure, right behind the newest addition to Swiftechs lineup the MCP50x. A total new design from the bottom and up so its not a Laing pump anymore but swiftech's own. Not sure how durable they are or haven't seen any benchmarks other than take swiftechs wording for it as it has a higher head pressure and is cheaper than the MCP-35x (Laing Pump).

Your loop order looks good, as all that matters is the reservoir is before the pump.

As for the case airflow, regardless on how you go about this, you'll want positive pressure and make sure every intake point is filtered so you don't get a accumulation of dust which than can impede performance.

 

[Sokonomi]

Yes, the 2011-v3. My apologies for any mix up.

There are 2011-v3 socket CPUs with encoding capabilities? Can you be more specific on which CPU that might be? Ive been looking at them, the only significant differences I could find was 6 cores instead of 4, and no video enhancing GPU core. I thought getting the newer 2011 socket would be more future proof, but it seems Intel has been spitting out sockets left and right lately. 115x has like 6 different spinoffs, and now that 2011 one is starting off with different versions too. So buying a socket with future upgrade in mind is next to impossible it seems. A friend of mine told me to grab what seems best NOW, and not worry about upgrading options. On a sidenote: LGA 1150 apparently gets a 5th gen CPU sometime 2015, so I guess theres still an option down the road?

Have a look at Martinsliquidlab for more info on rads, fans, pumps and waterblocks. He's done a phenomenal job for the water cooling community and has blessed us with tons of reviews on these parts.

Oho, candyland for watercooling! That ll help picking the parts, thanks!

There's one reservoir with a moving device but looks silly for a flow indicator and there's other reservoirs that have that extra "bling" factor. One of my favorites is the Monsoon Series Two reservoir. You could mount a single pump to it whether it be a DDC or D5 variant and has LEDs built into it to give it an ambiance effect of the color of your choice.

Is this the one? Seems theres a ton of different ones out there. They do NOT come with a pump, right?

The MCP has the PWM control as one of its main features and has the 2nd best head pressure, right behind the newest addition to Swiftechs lineup the MCP50x. A total new design from the bottom and up so its not a Laing pump anymore but swiftech's own. Not sure how durable they are or haven't seen any benchmarks other than take swiftechs wording for it as it has a higher head pressure and is cheaper than the MCP-35x (Laing Pump).

Is pump control really important when it comes to keeping noise in check? I figured the pump would never be louder than the rad fans anyway?

As for the case airflow, regardless on how you go about this, you'll want positive pressure and make sure every intake point is filtered so you don't get a accumulation of dust which than can impede performance.

The case has filters both front and bottom. However, maintaining positive pressure might become an issue. The giant 480 rad up top will be pulling the air out with 4 fans, the secondary 240 radiator will be using the front panel fans. So that leaves the two floor fans and rear fan to equalize the pressure. Could I compensate by using low speed top radiator fans and stronger bottom ones? Not sure what to do with the backside fan though. Should/could I make that an intake fan as well?

 

[Sokonomi]

Came across This pump.

I hope you can bare the dutch jibberish, but is that the same one? They seem to call it a Laing DDC-1 MCP350 12V. Pumps 440 liter per hour, 3.9m headpressure. They link it to this swiftech site. The lack of mention about a PWM signal control makes me believe its not the right one though..

On a sidebar; I keep seeing people complain about the poor throughput, that drops down to a meager 200lph once its in a loop, whats that about? problem?

 

[GTXJackBauer]

There are 2011-v3 socket CPUs with encoding capabilities? Can you be more specific on which CPU that might be? Ive been looking at them, the only significant differences I could find was 6 cores instead of 4, and no video enhancing GPU core. I thought getting the newer 2011 socket would be more future proof, but it seems Intel has been spitting out sockets left and right lately. 115x has like 6 different spinoffs, and now that 2011 one is starting off with different versions too. So buying a socket with future upgrade in mind is next to impossible it seems. A friend of mine told me to grab what seems best NOW, and not worry about upgrading options. On a sidenote: LGA 1150 apparently gets a 5th gen CPU sometime 2015, so I guess theres still an option down the road?

Oho, candyland for watercooling! That ll help picking the parts, thanks!

Is this the one? Seems theres a ton of different ones out there. They do NOT come with a pump, right?

They have adapters to add the pump to the rear of the reservoir. This doesn't not have a flow indicator. The reservoirs I was thinking of was one of these but they don't come with a pump adapter for the res.

Is pump control really important when it comes to keeping noise in check? I figured the pump would never be louder than the rad fans anyway?

Pumps can be noisy at full blast.

The case has filters both front and bottom. However, maintaining positive pressure might become an issue. The giant 480 rad up top will be pulling the air out with 4 fans, the secondary 240 radiator will be using the front panel fans. So that leaves the two floor fans and rear fan to equalize the pressure. Could I compensate by using low speed top radiator fans and stronger bottom ones? Not sure what to do with the backside fan though. Should/could I make that an intake fan as well?

I would use the front and bottom as intake (Filtered), whether they have rads on them or not and use the back and top as exhaust as long as they are unfiltered. You should be good even when exhausting some warmer air into the case. Won't make a huge different in temps.

Came across This pump.

I hope you can bare the dutch jibberish, but is that the same one? They seem to call it a Laing DDC-1 MCP350 12V. Pumps 440 liter per hour, 3.9m headpressure. They link it to this swiftech site. The lack of mention about a PWM signal control makes me believe its not the right one though..

On a sidebar; I keep seeing people complain about the poor throughput, that drops down to a meager 200lph once its in a loop, whats that about? problem?

That pump is one of the older DDC versions. The MCP-35x is the newest Laing pump with PWM.

 

[Sokonomi]

They have adapters to add the pump to the rear of the reservoir. This doesn't not have a flow indicator. The reservoirs I was thinking of was one of these but they don't come with a pump adapter for the res.

Ofcourse its personal taste, but I REALLY dont like the lego look of that. I suppose you can just about see the water flowing with a clear window, so ill leave it at that.

Pumps can be noisy at full blast.

Ive been running one of those small closed loop antec coolers for a couple years now, most silent thing I ever had. But that thing isn't slinging out 400lph so that makes sense. These 100 dollar pumps are made to last I presume, so I guess its an investment worth making.

I would use the front and bottom as intake (Filtered), whether they have rads on them or not and use the back and top as exhaust as long as they are unfiltered. You should be good even when exhausting some warmer air into the case. Won't make a huge different in temps.

Would pressurizing the case with warm air be favorable over venting the hot air directly out of the case? I intended to aim the front radiator out the side to get rid of the heat as fast as possible. But if keeping the pressure up would yield better results, I could just swing the radiator. My SSD drive will be somewhere rather unventilated though (back of motherboard panel), and my PSU has a temperature regulated fan that stops spinning if its cool enough, so again I wonder if raising the internal temp would be favorable.

That pump is one of the older DDC versions. The MCP-35x is the newest Laing pump with PWM.

There seems to be a billion different Laing pumps. I kinda need a European distributor though, getting anything shifted from america would cost crazypeople money.

 

[GTXJackBauer]

Ofcourse its personal taste, but I REALLY dont like the lego look of that. I suppose you can just about see the water flowing with a clear window, so ill leave it at that.

I agree. I like the Monsoon Series Two better myself. If they had a dual series pump solution, I'd be all over that.

Ive been running one of those small closed loop antec coolers for a couple years now, most silent thing I ever had. But that thing isn't slinging out 400lph so that makes sense. These 100 dollar pumps are made to last I presume, so I guess its an investment worth making.

Day and night different. (6w vs 18w+) Can't compare a ferrari to a pinto now can we.

Would pressurizing the case with warm air be favorable over venting the hot air directly out of the case? I intended to aim the front radiator out the side to get rid of the heat as fast as possible. But if keeping the pressure up would yield better results, I could just swing the radiator. My SSD drive will be somewhere rather unventilated though (back of motherboard panel), and my PSU has a temperature regulated fan that stops spinning if its cool enough, so again I wonder if raising the internal temp would be favorable.

You can do as you may. Not sure what you have at hand. Do what you think will get the coolest filtered air to the rads and exhaust the warm air out.

There seems to be a billion different Laing pumps. I kinda need a European distributor though, getting anything shifted from america would cost crazypeople money.

Well actually, Laing is European.

Take a look at this list to see if you can find the right etailer.

 

[Sokonomi]

Yeah those monsoon tanks do look delicious (are those cathode nubs inside the lights or something?). So the series 2 can strap on one of those fancy 35X pumps? I keep finding them with weird round casings on the back, which doesn't comply to the squareness of the Laing pumps, so I think im looking at the wrong one. I do want a bay tank with pump attached though, should save me some headaches with fitting and resonance.

lol, pinto.

As for pressure, there are several options.

• Running the roof radiator fans with a resistor to make them run at half speed while in parallel with the floor fans, technically resulting in dynamic positive pressure.
• Pointing the secondary radiator inwards rather than venting straight out the side, in theory equalizing pressure inside, at the risk of heating up PSU and SSD a bit.
• Running the rear fan as an intake as well, technically still running underpressure with 3 intake and 4 exhaust.
• Just sucking it up and hoping that dumping all hot air from rads out straight away will compensate for having an underpressure.

All this talk about cabinpressure.. am I building a PC or a boeing?

Laing is european? I would have pegged it for Asian, to be honest. And thanks for that list! I found one! 140 dollars though, jesus.. And they are the only dutch retailer that has it, too.. And in neighboring countries they still seem extremely rare. Do they have a different alias for this pump or something? Because short of learning russian/italian/french/whatever, thats the only place I could find that darn pump. Any viable alternatives you may know?

 

[GTXJackBauer]

Yeah those monsoon tanks do look delicious (are those cathode nubs inside the lights or something?). So the series 2 can strap on one of those fancy 35X pumps? I keep finding them with weird round casings on the back, which doesn't comply to the squareness of the Laing pumps, so I think im looking at the wrong one. I do want a bay tank with pump attached though, should save me some headaches with fitting and resonance.

The Monsoons use LEDs since the last time I checked and are most likely looking at the D5 compatible Bay reservoir. There's a DDC variant and D5.

lol, pinto.

As for pressure, there are several options.

• Running the roof radiator fans with a resistor to make them run at half speed while in parallel with the floor fans, technically resulting in dynamic positive pressure.
• Pointing the secondary radiator inwards rather than venting straight out the side, in theory equalizing pressure inside, at the risk of heating up PSU and SSD a bit.
• Running the rear fan as an intake as well, technically still running underpressure with 3 intake and 4 exhaust.
• Just sucking it up and hoping that dumping all hot air from rads out straight away will compensate for having an underpressure.

All this talk about cabinpressure.. am I building a PC or a boeing?

You're over thinking this and make me think to much.

You could use a fan controller or a PWM hub if your fans are PWM. Its simple as that.

No, your SSD or PSU will not overheat. The more heat dissipation in your loop the closer it will be to ambient temp, aka Delta-Temps. The exhaust air temps won't get THAT hot.

Laing is european? I would have pegged it for Asian, to be honest. And thanks for that list! I found one! 140 dollars though, jesus.. And they are the only dutch retailer that has it, too.. And in neighboring countries they still seem extremely rare. Do they have a different alias for this pump or something? Because short of learning russian/italian/french/whatever, thats the only place I could find that darn pump. Any viable alternatives you may know?

Well, if you want to go custom H20 and have the high end stuff, well thats how much its going to cost. The cost difference from the DDC MCP-35x or the D5 variant really has no price different. Maybe a few bucks at the most.

 

[Sokonomi]

The Monsoons use LEDs since the last time I checked and are most likely looking at the D5 compatible Bay reservoir. There's a DDC variant and D5.

Oh I see, monsoon swings both ways.

You're over thinking this and make me think to much.

You could use a fan controller or a PWM hub if your fans are PWM. Its simple as that.

The Enthoo Primo case does have a multiple PWM fan hub built in, so regulating the top exhaust through that would work nicely. Id have to put the intakes on a separate control if I want to play with pressure a bit though. The downside with the enthoo is the bays have a door infront of it, so about 90% of all fancy regulator bays would not fit on the count of having massive turn knobs. Id like something that would go along with water temperature, so it would go quiet without having to manually adjust, just like my little antec pinto does. I'm sure such gadgetry exists.

No, your SSD or PSU will not overheat. The more heat dissipation in your loop the closer it will be to ambient temp, aka Delta-Temps. The exhaust air temps won't get THAT hot.

Just a thought, but what if I just didnt put the 240 radiator in at all? That would give me 4 cold air intakes as well as 4 exhausts at the top. A quad fan radiator should be able to chug a simple FET/CPU/GPU loop well enough on its own I think?

Well, if you want to go custom H20 and have the high end stuff, well thats how much its going to cost. The cost difference from the DDC MCP-35x or the D5 variant really has no price different. Maybe a few bucks at the most.

Its not somuch the cost that annoys me, its the 40 dollar difference just because the retailer is dutch. The pump manufacturer is European, so shouldn't it be cheaper since its "local"? :')

 

[Sokonomi]

Hey, check it out!

Whats this one about? Its named differently, but;

• Chugs 420lph
• Has 3.7m head pressure
• Has PWM control

Sound familiar?

The bottom of the page actually explains a littlebit whats going on;

Why are there Swiftech and Laing Versions? Are they different?

The latter question can be answered quickly: No! Here an explanation: Lain produces all pumps in Hungary. They are just labelled differently for Overseas markets and the European market. The pumps themselves are therefore exactly identical. The overseas version has Swiftech as a distributor and the European version is neutrally black. The cheaper Swiftech pumps are usually shipped with decouplers, the Laing pumps usually not. The power, pressure head, flow rates. etc. are exactly the same.

Only thing "off" about it, is this one apparently is only 10 watts as opposed to the 18 watts swiftech advertises with. (The sticker on the pump in the picture DOES say 18w ) And the price, which only 75 dollars apparently. Are you able to confirm that this is the "swiftech" pump you recommended would go well with the Monsoon S2 DDC Dual 5.25" reservoir, just with a different sticker?

Sidebar: The monsoon reservoirs are being shipped with silver bullet plugs? Biocide/killcoil not needed if I buy this tank?

 

[GTXJackBauer]

Oh I see, monsoon swings both ways.

The Enthoo Primo case does have a multiple PWM fan hub built in, so regulating the top exhaust through that would work nicely. Id have to put the intakes on a separate control if I want to play with pressure a bit though. The downside with the enthoo is the bays have a door infront of it, so about 90% of all fancy regulator bays would not fit on the count of having massive turn knobs. Id like something that would go along with water temperature, so it would go quiet without having to manually adjust, just like my little antec pinto does. I'm sure such gadgetry exists.

You mean a controller that controls the fans and pump speed based on the water temp? Water temp won't change that drastically if you just have a constant flow (1.0-1.5GPM) and fans as it will reach its equilibrium but if you like to tinker than there is a premium controller that can control the whole system. That controller is also from EU. If you did go this route I would advise sticking with their reservoir and pumps since some of the 3rd party ones like the MCP-35x might not work properly.

Just a thought, but what if I just didnt put the 240 radiator in at all? That would give me 4 cold air intakes as well as 4 exhausts at the top. A quad fan radiator should be able to chug a simple FET/CPU/GPU loop well enough on its own I think?

You only need to cool the CPU and GPU.

The more heat surface you have, should allow you to run the fans at a slower speed which will leave you with a nice quiet water cooling system at full loads while having the heatroom for OCs and future proofing the rig for more added components (GPUs) to the loop down the road.

Its not somuch the cost that annoys me, its the 40 dollar difference just because the retailer is dutch. The pump manufacturer is European, so shouldn't it be cheaper since its "local"? :')

You would think it would be cheaper within the EU but aside from politics, there's dues and taxes that have to be paid is my guess.

Hey, check it out!

Whats this one about? Its named differently, but;

• Chugs 420lph
• Has 3.7m head pressure
• Has PWM control

Sound familiar?

The bottom of the page actually explains a littlebit whats going on;



Only thing "off" about it, is this one apparently is only 10 watts as opposed to the 18 watts swiftech advertises with. (The sticker on the pump in the picture DOES say 18w ) And the price, which only 75 dollars apparently. Are you able to confirm that this is the "swiftech" pump you recommended would go well with the Monsoon S2 DDC Dual 5.25" reservoir, just with a different sticker?

Sidebar: The monsoon reservoirs are being shipped with silver bullet plugs? Biocide/killcoil not needed if I buy this tank?

Yes that is a DDC pump, one of the older versions with PWM added to it. Yes it will work with the Monsoon Reservoir and it usually comes with silver bullets and if it does all you will need is distilled water. Just make sure you're not mixing any aluminum in the build.

 

[Sokonomi]

You mean a controller that controls the fans and pump speed based on the water temp? Water temp won't change that drastically if you just have a constant flow (1.0-1.5GPM) and fans as it will reach its equilibrium but if you like to tinker than there is a premium controller that can control the whole system. That controller is also from EU. If you did go this route I would advise sticking with their reservoir and pumps since some of the 3rd party ones like the MCP-35x might not work properly.

... Hubba hubba! That "red wagon in the window" feeling. Wow thats a beautiful controller. My wallet went into hiding upon reading the pricetag though.

You only need to cool the CPU and GPU.
The more heat surface you have, should allow you to run the fans at a slower speed which will leave you with a nice quiet water cooling system at full loads while having the heatroom for OCs and future proofing the rig for more added components (GPUs) to the loop down the road.

Not sure what you're trying to say. More rads is better, because as long as that heat is not on the CPU/GPU its all good?

You would think it would be cheaper within the EU but aside from politics, there's dues and taxes that have to be paid is my guess.

Apparently it is cheaper, just not when you try to import a swiftech from america to europe like an idiot.

Yes that is considered a DDC pump, one of the older versions with PWM added to it.

So its NOT the same? Or just different but equally good?

Yes it will work with the Monsoon Reservoir and it usually comes with silver bullets and if it does all you will need is distilled water. Just make sure you're not mixing any aluminum in the build.

I was planning on going all XSPC blocks, so should be good. Nice to know I can skip on the additive/coil if I go for the monsoon tank.

 

[GTXJackBauer]

... Hubba hubba! That "red wagon in the window" feeling. Wow thats a beautiful controller. My wallet went into hiding upon reading the pricetag though.

Watercooling will do that to ya.

Not sure what you're trying to say. More rads is better, because as long as that heat is not on the CPU/GPU its all good?

The more rads the quieter you're able to run the system while having good water cooling temps. The less rad the higher the fans and FPI should be. Its up to the user but who wants noise when going water cooling and spending the extra dough.

Apparently it is cheaper, just not when you try to import a swiftech from america to europe like an idiot.

You could just grab most of the items from the same folks with the Aquaero 6 controller if you choose to.

So its NOT the same? Or just different but equally good?

Its a DDC pump with less performance than a MCP-35x but can still get the job done if that is what you're asking.

I was planning on going all XSPC blocks, so should be good. Nice to know I can skip on the additive/coil if I go for the monsoon tank.

Sounds good.

 

[boanerges57]

I had one of those XSPC 750 res/pumps. the newer versions seem ok. Not quite in the same class as a d5 or dcc but very quiet and decent flow.

The 1150 socket has some life to it. the i7 series is still a great performer but a socket for intel is like a phone for apple: if you wait a few months a new one will be released.

given that the performance per thread from 1155 through 2011v3 hasnt really changed much.

If you want a small high performance but quiet pump look into the mcp50x from swiftech. it is a design based on the lang ddc but modified/improved it is smaller and capable of better pressure while also being quieter.

Mayhems themselves say aurora is for showcase systems dont they?

Your build plans look good. good luck to you. I myself have only recently waded back in to water cooling from a socket A something like 10 yrs ago... maybe more.

 

[Sokonomi]

I had one of those XSPC 750 res/pumps. the newer versions seem ok. Not quite in the same class as a d5 or dcc but very quiet and decent flow.

They advertise 750lph flow, which seems like a lot, but 1.8m head pressure seems **** poor compared to most other pumps ive seen.

The 1150 socket has some life to it. the i7 series is still a great performer but a socket for intel is like a phone for apple: if you wait a few months a new one will be released.

given that the performance per thread from 1155 through 2011v3 hasnt really changed much.

These sockets have been driving me nuts. Pentium 3 > Pentium 4, those were the simpler times.

If you want a small high performance but quiet pump look into the mcp50x from swiftech. it is a design based on the lang ddc but modified/improved it is smaller and capable of better pressure while also being quieter.

Getting that MCP35x pump where I live is nearly impossible. Hardly anybody in europe is selling it, and the ones that to, ask double the money.

Mayhems themselves say aurora is for showcase systems dont they?

Did they? I saw someone going on about it in a youtube comment, but didnt know it was "official". :') Too bad, that stuff really looks cool.


Ive been breaking my mind over what fans I should use. Should I go push/pull, what RPM do I need, how much flow do I need, how much pressure do I need, etz, etz. A nice recent fan shootout would help, but fan comparisons seem hard to come by.

 

[boanerges57]

"Aurora is "NOT" made for use in a home system. It has been developed for show System's (modding) and Photo work. If looking for a fluid for a Home system / Gaming system please use Mayhems X1 or Mayhems Pastel range of fluids there are fully tested and working in any kind of loop."

thats a quote from the mayhems website.

Dont use aurora in a long term build

 

[boanerges57]

Push pull often doesnt make a huge difference from what ive seen but im guessing that is fan/radiator dependent.

swiftechs website actually can help you find a european distributor, they have quite a few. the MCP50x is just under $70 here (it started out at $50) so given tax differences I would expect it to come out somewhat close to 100 euros.