New PC Build (Gaming + Video editing) [1500€ + 400€]

[soulslayerzange]

I have always been lurking around OverClockers Forums to keep myself up-to-date with latest tweaks/issues but never actively participated in the community, till now.

I am facing the daunting task of having to upgrade my PC and need some technical advice from more tech-savvy people here than myself who can provide me a well-catered response to match my needs. I have come up with my own configuration, so please guide me on which items, if any, should be replaced for better harmony (or best bang for the buck) and the possible reasons or thought-process behind it.

Use:
- Primarily for gaming (latest MMORPGs (TERA), RTS (Starcraft II), FPS (Crysis 3) and Simulation) preferably at max settings @ 1920x1080
- Video/Photo editing as a hobby in Adobe package and Sony Vegas.

Budget:
- 1500€ for tower with components inside;
- additional 400€ for monitor, keyboard and mouse.

Where to buy:
Eventhough I have mostly been looking and comparing items on NewEgg USA due to their detailed technical specifications and nifty comparing tool but unforunately they do not ship to Europe (Spain) which means I have been looking at Spanish e-retailers such as AUSSAR and PCComponentes for Eurozone prices and availability of products. If anyone knows a better, trustworthy online computer shop which ships to Spain and has more aggressive pricing with excellent after-sales customer service (in the event of possible RMA etc), please do suggest.

My PC build:

● I am wondering if I should replace the i7-3770K for an i5-3570K. It would mean a saving of 85€ which could be used for another component if deemed necessary. In doing so, am I looking at about 10% less performance at video editing or more? For gaming I know the i5-3570K is more than enough as games aren't taking advantage of HyperThreading in i7-3770K. I also intend to OverClock the CPU at some point in the near future to about 4.4-4.5GHz range.

● I have opted for Noctua NH-D14 because it has held the "best of the best" title for 3 consecutive years and it is quality craftsmanship and customer service. However I have the option available to get a Phantek TC14PE for the same price. I have read reviews that Phantek TC14PE has finally managed to de-throne the Noctua NH-D14 as the king of air-coolers, even if it meant it only took them 3 years and having to copy the Noctua NH-D14's design and improving on it slightly. Should I change to the Phantek TC14PE or is it just a matter of preference and only 1-2ºC difference?

● How is this MotherBoard (MoBo) for my needs? The only thing which I can find "lacking" in it is the limited option of supported RAM speeds. (1600 and then nothing until 2666)
I read that for 99% of use, 1600MHz RAM is more than enough and anything beyond is merely for higher benchmarking results (~4% gain from 1600-CL9 to 2133-CL9?) and doesn't really translate into noticeable performance gain in real-life use. Is there anything else which is lacking in this MoBo?

● I choose this SSD for its insanely fast read and write speed. Will I see a noticeable performance drop by downgrading to the 128GB version which has similar read speeds but slower write speeds, if so how much? (Not that I intend on doing it, but just curious if I will actually benefit from this additional write speed boost in the 256GB version. Aren't SSDs primarily used due to their reading capabilities? Don't people try to conserve the number of writes due to limited iOPs? 256GB would have more iOPs than 128GB iOPs, which is also a benefit?

● How is Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 2TB? I can't seem to find it available on NewEgg, they only have 1TB and 3TB version. Does the 2TB malfunction that much that they stopped stocking them or is there another reason behind it?

● The casing; CoolerMaster Storm Enforcer (with side panel);
I do not care for it to be aesthetically beautiful, it could be a cardbox for all I care. Meaning I do not need anything "bling bling", I'm not here for the looks but do require it to be of a certain performing standard to be able to care well for my componentes in terms of airflow, connectivity etc. My worries about this casing is that it has 270mm clearance for the graphics card with HDD cage, 390mm without it. Will I have to remove the HDD cage to accomodate the GIGABYTE GTX670 (~272mm in length)? I could get the ASUS GTX670 which is 270mm, which is EXACTLY the clearance of the case without having to remove the HDD cage, but ASUS GTX670 is 35€ more expensive, has lower factory speeds and from what I have been reading, most people choose this if they are worried about noise as it is the quietest GTX670. I am opting for the GIGABYTE GTX670 due to its WindForcex3 which I heard cools the best of all versions and thus may OC better. Just want to OC so its performace is on par with the GTX680 at least. I think that is do-able with stock cooler without much risk or heat.

● I initially had the Corsair AX750 in mind, but it isn't available or always out of stock. Hence resulting in me having to choose Corsair HX750. It is 6€ cheaper but from what I hear performs just as well efficiency wise <50ºC temps. However at >50ºC temps, that seems to be AX750 territory as HX750 efficiency drops at that point? Is AX750 based off the Seasonic or built by them?
Corsair HX750 = semi-modular? Whilst the AX750 is fully modular? Does that matter in anything or just means that AX750 can lose ALL cables and be butt-naked if I wanted it to be whilst HX750 would have a few most basic wires still there in its most naked state.
Also, is 750W enough to hold 2x GTX670 SLi with slight OC and an Intel IvyBridge i5/i7 OC'd to 4.4-4.5GHz along with all the components listed above?

As for the additional peripherals (monitor, keyboard and mouse);

► monitor » Dell UltraSharp U2312HM LED 23" IPS Black [1920 x 1080] (195€ VAT inc.) I am opting for this monitor due to it being an IPS which I have heard has more colour fidelity. It has a 8ms response time, not sure if B2B or G2G timing, but it has little-to-no ghosting issues even in FPS games. Input lag of 0.6ms which is excellent. The only problem I see with this is that it does not have HDMI connectivity, is that a huge deal? Is it being only a 60Hz monitor bad too? Should I be opting for a 120Hz monitor? Many gamers do like this monitor though. Or should I go for the Dell UltraSharp U24XXX, ASUS PB238Q, ASUS VE248H. I have also never really experienced 3D gameplay, but from the many reviews I read it isn't really all that amazing. People tend to get over the novelty of it after 2 weeks because the game brightness is halved, FPS drops and you need to be able to constantly keep 120+ FPS to benefit from the higher frequency 3D monitors with LightBoost technology like ASUS VG248QE or BenQ XL2411T. I do not see myself gaming in 3D anytime soon, am I missing out or should I wait a few more years when it is a lot better and more affordable investment? Also, most of the movies tend to be in analgraph red/blue 3D glasses, not the over/under which nVidia 3D vision 2.0 seems to use, meaning little to no use outside of that realm. Please enlighten me!

► Requirements for the keyboard
- needs to be a Mechanical Keyboard MX-Cherry Brown switch
- should preferably have at least 5 macro keys
- needs to have the numpad keys hence no tournament/LAN edition keyboards
- would be nice that it also have PS/2 connectivity (as well as USB) to benefit from NKRO (No Key Roll Over)
- media function keys or LED backlit are of no importance to me

This is my first mechanical keyboard and I was introduced to them by reading posts by Aynjell on these forums about the Rosewill RK9000BR and read further reviews on geekhacks forums. I have not tried the other switches but I do believe the Browns to be ideal middle-ground for me.

I have found a few which I seem to like but do not know where I can get them here in Spain.
● Cooler Master Storm Trigger Red LED Backlit Mechanical Keyboard (Brown Cherry MX) ($133.00) (SGK-6000-GKCM1 (Brown Switch))
Pros: Has 5 macro keys
Cons: Availability issues; AUSSAR seems to have MX-Cherry BLACK switch. (SGK-6000-GKCC1 (Black Switch))

● Das Keyboard Professional Model S Silent Mechanical Keyboard (Brown Cherry MX)

● Rosewill RK-9000BR Mechanical Keyboard (Brown Cherry MX) ($88.00)
Pros: I have read on geekhacks forums that the PCB is from a Filco which has been rebranded to NewEgg's in-house Rosewill brand. Filco keyboards are amazing quality from what I read.
Cons: I have read many reviews that the mini USB port is loosely soldered which means that it gets pushed into the keyboard if not handled with EXTREME care. Does anyone know if this has been resolved now?

Or do you suggest any other mechanical keyboard?

► requirements for mouse
- Claw-grip user
- medium sensitivity (I guess this means I don't need to get 5600DPI mice? Anything in 2500-3500DPI would suffice?)
- at least 2-3 programmable buttons
http://www.squidoo.com/best-claw-grip-mouse

► Last but not least, I heard that Windows 8 has better SSD and Memory management in comparison to Windows 7. I read a TomsHardware review which said there are no driver compatibility issues and for gaming it is the similar if not better experience. The only inconvenience people seem to have is with the Metro interface which I guess I could grow into.

Thanks for reading the entire post and I thank you in advance for your help, which I hope would be just as thorough.

 

[Knufire]

You're paying the shop to build it for you instead of building it yourself?

Definitely get this. Same panel as the Dell U2711: http://www.ebay.es/itm/New-ACHIEVA-..._Monitors&hash=item19ce366ec8#ht_13436wt_1163

This is what I would go with. 7970 is about the same performance as a 680 but cheaper. RAM is cheaper and same real-world performance. PSU is cheaper and still high quality/modular/plenty of power for dual 7970s in the future. Motherboard is almost the same as UD3H but cheaper. Case is much better (I have built in the Storm Enforcer and the Lian Li K62 before). Cooler is still capable of 4.4-4.5GHz, you don't need a NH-D14 or Phantek for 4.5GHz.

 

[soulslayerzange]

Yes, it's not the I cannot do it myself but if I choose the option for them to build it, they don't charge for Transport costs. They also gift a mousepad or a case fan if I choose this option, I will choose a 14cm case fan for the top part. So, one way or another I would have paid those 40€.

Many people on the forums who have bought from them say they do an extremely high quality build with extensive testing for extra peace of mind.

 

[Aynjell]

Try the new logitech mechanical. I almost bought one, but thankfully I didn't. I quit my job on tuesday. =(

Also, the rosewill's do in fact have a USB defect that seems to effect earlier models, and unfortunately I was dead wrong about them. I think if you're willing to resolder the USB connection when it breaks, and solder it right the second time around; it would be a fine product, but unfortunately; and at the time my experience was conflicting with this entirely, as was all of my friends... the usb ports do eventually break.

The new logitech has browns, and macro keys, and back lighting. It's basically a mechy for the more common consumer, which is kinda why I wanted it. It's a VERY luxurious mechanical and it's also kind of a sleeper at the same time, because it looks more like a membrane board than most mechys do. It's also very contradictory to the vast majority of mechanicals, which are very spartan.

Personally, Razer products are hindered by the accompanying software... Razer can't seem to hire programmers for beans. Logitech on the other hand? Never had an issue with their software. Installing the software for a lachesis makes the mouse completely die after about an hour of use; and the deathadder has a similar issue, except that it causes something else... can't quite recall; I think it was a stutter in the cursor or something like that.... oh and the newest synapse software is complete garbage. Basically if a razer product REQUIRES software to operate completely, it will probably be worse off with the software than without. Sorry for the derailment, but this all leads to this point: do not consider razer boards unless they're priced very competitively.

Also, I more or less claw grip my deathadder, but I feel like it is leading to hand cramping and other RSI. The G9 is probably the most accurate claw mouse I've ever used. That might be worth a shot!

 

[txus.palacios]

¡Bienvenido al foro! Encantando de encontrar a otro español por estos lares. Voy a continuar escribiendo el post en inglés por educación, pero encantado de verte por aquí.

CPU: Regarding the i7 vs. i5 dilemma, I truly have no factual information comparing them on a video editing workstation situation, but, if you can afford the i7, the extra threads won't hurt.

Cooler: As long as it is a known and reviewed 120mm tower cooler, it should be OK. Phanteks / Noctua, they both have the same performance (1-2C difference, that's measurement uncertainty for me). If you want silence, look at the LCLC solutions.

MoBo: Knufire here is one of our PC parts picker extraordinaire. Follow his advice and buy Asrock's board. I had a problem with an Asrock board some time ago, related to a custom BIOS and a crappy TSD that didn't even bother to reply to my mails, but, the last thing I built (an A10 rig for a friend) was rocking an ASR board and it was pretty nice. Don't let my TSD experience scare you, they're all six and a half. I also had my headaches with ASUS, regarding one of their highend boards back then (a Crosshair III Formula) and random crashes.

RAM: Just get the cheapest 1600MHz CL9 1.5v DDR3 modules. Aim for the higher density (8GB modules), just in case you need to drop 32GB there.

GPU: I would also recommend the 7970 as Knufire said, provided CUDA is not important for you. Adobe recently dropped CUDA for OpenCL IIRC, and OpenCL is AMD friendly.

LCD: Don't even think it twice, get the Korean IPS panel. It's the same one used on Apple Cinema Displays and Dell UltraSharps, but for a fraction of the price.

SSD: Is that 840 the Pro edition or the standard one? If it's the standard one, consider Crucial's m4. Excluding random firmware derps (last firmware revision was a PITA for EFI users, this one hasn't failed me yet) they're pretty nice and stable. The reason we love SSDs is the ridiculous access times. Extreme speeds are an obvious plus, but don't spend too much on an SSD for a few extra Mbps.

At least, 128GB. If you can afford the 256GB, go for it.

HDD: Seagate bought Samsung last year IIRC, and Samsung was my #1 brand (lies, my #1 brand ever was Hitachi, now bought by HDD), so it shouldn't be a problem. It's a consumer level drive, and you already have an SSD, no need for a special drive.

ODD: Can you go wrong with them these days? Just choose the cheapest one. DVD, Blu-rays are not worth it. I speak from experience.
Case: Almost forgot, look at the NZXT Source 220. The A10 rig is starring that case (actually, the white 210 Elite), and for the price, it's amazing. The only "bad" points are the lack of thumbscrews for the expansion slots (just grab some off eBay) and only having 2 (1x USB2.0, 1x USB 3.0) ports (get a USB 3.0 internal hub if you need more than that). Everything else, incredible for the low price I paid. And they have an awesome engineer who shipped a motherboard spacer tool. No more sore fingers!

PSU: Full modularity is great if you want to sleeve your cables. Useless if you're not concerned about the eye-candy. 750W is plenty for a 670 SLI. My 470s overclocked don't even take 600W from the wall when Furmarking. Also, don't get your head filled with efficiency propaganda. You won't really notice the difference between Platinum or Gold unless you have a datacenter. At most, you'll see a difference of 30W between Gold and Platinum. I'd recommend you to stick with Corsair, for they have the Corsair TSD. And that is a huge, read, HUGE pro on my book. They shipped me a new, free, complete faceplate for my 800D because the I/O port door clip broke. Corsair, guys, you rock. The HX series is my choice, half modular design helps with cable management (but, A LOT)

OS: Windows 8 is running on my system because I managed to get it for a pretty cheap price. The new task manager is great, and the integrated ISO mounting capabilities are plain awesome (I will always prefer mount -o loop though, ) If you don't have a license for Windows 7 you can use, get Windows 8 for this system, and install Classic Shell to disable the new Metro... er... Modern-style UI.

Keyboard: If you have the soldering skills and can find a Rosewill keyboard here in Spain go for it. Replacing a USB port is not that hard provided you have the skills and gear required.

Mouse: I'd recommend a G600. When you can have macros at your fingertips, you won't go back. It might not be the best claw-gripper ever, but, the macro keys for MMOs are golden.

E-tailer: Have you considered the European Amazons (specially, Amazon.co.uk)? They all ship to Spain (for free, not a 24h service though) as long as all the products you order are sold by or fulfilled by them. They're substantially cheaper than PCC from experience. Never dealt with AUSSAR before, I was always a PCC / ProSilentPC / Amazon guy, I guess I should go back to Noticias3D one of these days and get updated on Spanish stores!

Just remember to pay in their currency (pounds) if you buy from .co.uk. They usually add up to 5% if you use their currency conversion system.

As long as ASSUAR knows how to pack it properly (remember the PCC summer where they forgot how to install a heatsink properly and literally broke a couple of motherboards?), it should be OK. I'd rather pay shipping and install it myself (tinkerer here).


tl;dr:

CPU: i7 3770k
Cooler: 120mm tower cooler with at least 3 heatpipes from reputable manufacturer. Say H212, Frio... D14/Phanteks if you want extreme performance.
MoBo: ASRock Z77 Extreme4
RAM: Any DDR3 1600MHz CL9 1.5v (the cheapest one you can find from a reputable manufacturer)
GPU: 7970 if you don't need CUDA
LCD: Korean IPS
SSD: +128GB Crucial m4 (cheap) / Samsung 840 Pro (fast)
HDD: Any STANDARD (nothing "eco-friendly", "green"...) SATA drive
ODD: Cheapest DVD burner.
PSU: Corsair +650W for SLI set-ups (even though you won't hit that number in real life)
Case: Check the NZXT Source 220
OS: Windows 8 Pro
Keyboard: If you can find the Rosewill, and are willing to replace the USB connector, go for it.
Mouse: G600
E-tailer: Check the European Amazons using adquisitio.

EDIT: Excluding peripherals and Windows 8 Pro upgrade, this system costs 1303 EUR + Amazon Premium subscription for the Spanish Amazon (15 EUR, free shipping for a year, it will pay for itself after a couple orders, believe me) using Amazon.co.uk and Amazon.es. I've chosen the slightly more expensive DC2 7970.