- Joined
- Jan 10, 2012
any updates on this project?
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There is nothing wrong with asking questions like he has. While we are "a computer forum", we can still provide our expertise when it applies.HMMM. And I thought this was a computer forum.
I like the odd projects like this.
There is nothing wrong with asking questions like he has. While we are "a computer forum", we can still provide our expertise when it applies.
see what you can find for a "water chiller" this will be your best bet IMO, instead of trying to make one. even with the pelts they will need heatsinks on the other side to remove the heat from them.
where i think you need to really start is:
what is the going to be the nominal temp of the controller, ie 50c/60c, to not cut current back. as from there you can figure out how much of what your going to need to keep it at a operational temp with out current being cut back.
i know i dont know all but what do you mean by potted? if im looking at the right picture with that thin copper folded over how to you plan to remove the heat effectively? i would think they would actually need to be tied directly to those blocks you have. to many attachments to remove heat will make things worse and not as effective at removing heat.
what made you want to build a controller vs buying one? there are a few out there that can handle the wattage and be over kill plus they can be liquid cooled as well.
what electric motor are you using? its hard to tell from the pic, i know the company name use to be Etek, thats what it looks like to me.
As well controllers will have two different ratings, a nominal output and then a peak output something like a 30sec or 1 minute output rating. as in the case it sounds like that controller might be able to do 20kw for 1-2mins, then it drops down due to thermal limits. this is the case with all of them so that is something that should have been taken into account. as lets say you need 20kw nominal output but they are listing them by peak instead, you might have needed a 30/40kw one. since i dont know who made that controller or where its from, its not one i have seen before though i dont search that much for them. most of the ones i have seen used in high power applications like the "white zombie" use zilla controllers or others built for that type of application.
so exactly the air cooling is for the controller or the motor? im a bit lost on that part, the cooling would help with short bursts for higher torque though not really more power per say. what motor though you never did say or link to it, so is it from mars llc? i haven checked their site latly to see what updates they done to thier motors. from what i recall the guy doing mars llc is one of the guys that help come up with the etek motor B&S used.
is that a video of your "buggy" running? probably not what you want to hear you might have needed to go with a higher rated controller, like the 72500 or 72650. i guess that would have been dependent on your minimum contentious torque output. another thought is too, you didnt say what type of batteries your using[lead,gel cell,lipo4]? you sure it might be the controller and no the batteries sagging after some spirited runs?
my thought if i was going to truely liquid cool that controller for higher rated (in time, ie 1min/2min) current output. i would get those blocks as close as possible to those output transistors. as in if possible removing the copper that is attached and directly epoxy the block to them. if that wasnt possible remove as much of the copper fins in side that i could as in excess that would not be in contact with the water block. if its 4in wide then anything past that 4in gets cut off, this will now mean you will need a rad with active fans and then one that would get cooling while in motion or just make both with active fans. from what i read about that controller you want to keep the temp max 85c to keep it running. though it designed as is to operate in this range, im not sure what really is going to be added by water cooling it. lets say if your lucky with the water cooling keeping things in check to get another 5mins of peak current ratings added across the board to what they list. would that be good enough? what is good enough, 50ft lbs/100ft lbs?
im not sure how much height you could add but if you went the pc rad route you could go "A" frame style on the top and get rads mounted up top that way. then if you got enough length you could do a 4x120 rads or if you dont go to a 3x120 rads.
yea that is the company i was thinking of, forgot they changed names to montenergy, they use to be mars.
well you got two things going on, looks like the peak power is going to drop off the motor side first looking at its 1min rating. the 1003 is rated for 72v@400amps@1min, thats 28.8kw. you may have the right sized controller for the motor and your just asking more continuous then what either can do. yea that motor can do 60ft lbs but that falls into that 1min rating. doing the math from some of the other motors listed, he doesnt list nm/amp or ft lbs/amp on the 1003. just assuming it is the same as some of the other of the same weight and near the power output KW, it should be around .15nm/amp. that means with 400amp*.15nm=60nm=44.25ft lbs, looking at the table it has 315lb/in or 26.25ft lbs. that is assuming the 315lb/in is going off of the non-fan cooled motor at 200amp continuous that works out to be .178nm/amp.
you would then be looking at 200amp+275amp=475*.178nm=62.3ftlbs to the high side of 200+300=500amp*.178nm=65.64ft lbs. now im starting to see where that controller is actually going to be your limiting factor and that a higher rated one is going to be the way to go vs modding the current one. i think its a bit to bad that a higher rated ME1003 is out there with liquid cooling support something like the ME1302.
*edit*
found what i was looking for, did you ever see this?
http://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=364
get both motor and controller for $900 is a steal for that kind of power and high RPM.
thats true but the outer shell will still get hot, you could have water channels in the outer casing to remove the heat. its just a thought i had but i wouldnt try to mod one of those, if i were to do something like you are. if i had the money doing this project i would have been more inclined to go with the Lem 2x2 D95B setup for the 6k rpm. if i could live with the lower rpm the D135 RAGS for the higher torque, being 30nm vs 42nm. in a 2x2 configuration you could parallel connect them so your torque would doulbe to 60/84. would be tuff call though series[higher pack voltage] connect them or parallel[higher pack current]. would be interesting if they had a controller that worked like the zillia on the white zombie where it would switch from parallel connected to series.The reason some of the brushless Motenergy motors are able to be liquid cooled is their axial air gap design. ME1003 is radial air gap and more difficult to supply coolant lines to areas in need.
ok, found a pic of what he is asking about, just nothing more......
that looks more like a heater core then a computer rad. though in the early days some of us (me) used heater cores with custom made fan shroudes for 120mm fans. i have thought about tring to do a electric bug. the company went under i think but they offered a adapter to have two 9in kostov motors mounted in the bug, more of a hot rod. i dont know the motors that well but i think that might be a hpevs or was the old name, AC-31 more the likely or the AC50/51 motor.
after reading this thread though, i though about trying to find and older Suby awd/manual. use one of the AC motors with about 180 to 200ft-lbs, in a awd setup that could be fun.