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Z

Zithras

Registered
Joined
Jun 1, 2008
I think I'll stick with the 655...it just seems more suited to my needs overall.

This leaves me with
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dubayreforla.html
as the reservoir - which is exactly what I was originally looking for - I can put on 4 DD fittings, and be good to go :D

How do bay reservoirs fill/empty? I'm still really confused on this - do I need to buy additional valves/fittings and run tubing from them? Do I just open up the top and use a funnel? Surely the top isn't open all the time? Seeing as how bay reservoirs are on the top of the case, does this mean you have to turn the whole case upside down every time to empty the loop? Can I leave the pump on and empty it through the top? (but that would either leave water in the loop or run the pump dry)

I guess turning the case over once a year isn't too horrible, but still a bit of a pain if I use the MM case and don't mount the pumps (i.e. stick em on gelstuff blocks)
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
Open the top, have a funnel with a short tube on it, put the tube in the res. keep it there till your done filling and bleeding bubbles, usually 2 days or so.

You drain the loop by having a drain fitting down low.

Twice a year for liquid replacement, full teardown and cleaning once a year.
 
OP
Z

Zithras

Registered
Joined
Jun 1, 2008
Ah. That makes sense. I didn't realize it took two days to bleed a loop - won't the air left over at the top of the reservoir get into the loop anyway?

Now to look at drain fittings. Do pumps come with them, or do I need to manually hook up two tubing ends to some sort of metal drain valve at the bottom? (Will update this post if forum threads tell me more before you reply - I can't believe I completely forgot about draining this thing!) If the latter, what additional parts should I buy?

Edit: looking around, what if I put one of these http://www.dangerden.com/store/delrin-tee.html
at the bottom of the loop, midway between the pump and first component of each loop, and then add in one of these
http://www.dangerden.com/store/danger-den-fillport.html
for the actual emptying part?

The only concern is that I'm not exactly sure how these fit together (i.e. what fittings do I order?)

Would I need 2x1/2 inch DD big boy fittings and 1x1/2 inch fillport? Or 3 fittings with the fillport attached onto a fitting somehow?

In either case, the loop would then go pump->tee+fillport->(gpus/cpus/radiator)->reservoir->pump?

Seeing as how there's probably a gallon of water in each loop, how do you empty them? Put the case somewhere elevated and a big bowl of water below, then open up the fillport and try not to splash onto components? I guess one solution is to make the pump ->component part of the tubing a bit longer so I can move the Tee around when necessary?

Edit 2: Still looking for that thread you mentioned...looked about 8 pages back...maybe I missed it...is this what you were talking about? http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=639231&highlight=drain
 
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Conumdrum

Member
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Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
No, the water is always taken from the bottom of the res, so it's no air.

You have to figure out your own drain idea. In fact there is a thread buried in here, maybe a few pages back asking that exact question, many posted pics. So look back till you find it.
 
OP
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Zithras

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Jun 1, 2008
I didn't find the thread you were talking about, but after reading around for a couple hours, I have an idea. I don't know if it will work, but if it does, it is a good idea (someone has probably had it before, but it's still my idea :D )

What if I use one of these http://www.dangerden.com/store/delrin-tee.html at the bottom of the loop, as originally planned, with two fat boy standard fittings. Then, instead of a third fitting, I put in a Koolance VL3N quick disconnect (info here http://www.skinneelabs.com/qdc.html?page=3 )

I can leave the quick disconnect disconnected most of the time, and when it's fill time, I can clip in a 2 ft. hose with the other disconnect in, and drain easily.

If this will work, it seems ideal...only...the disconnect doesn't seem to be a fitting that would screw into the third end of the T - how would I attach it, and would my idea work?
 

OCD-OC

Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2009
Location
UK- the frozen northwest
I think I'll stick with the 655...it just seems more suited to my needs overall.

This leaves me with
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dubayreforla.html
as the reservoir - which is exactly what I was originally looking for - I can put on 4 DD fittings, and be good to go :D

I guess turning the case over once a year isn't too horrible, but still a bit of a pain if I use the MM case and don't mount the pumps (i.e. stick em on gelstuff blocks)

did you buy this Res yet ?

I onkly ask I have have had that for a week now and can hopefully shed some light for you


this is essentially 2 x resses in one box ..

there are 2 x holes on the top to fill with

and 4 x threaded holes to fit Barbs or compressions

2 x input lines
2 x output lines

the pumps I have (MCP 355's ) I removed the tops and they screw directly onto this res

best piccy I can find
this is upside down, when fitted the pumps are underneath the res, and the fill ports are on top and have little plastic screw in blockers

like this

on my setup, I'll be running tubes from here to the front of the 5.25" bay above with some fill ports fitted

and a Drain will be fitted at the lowest point of both loops

hope this helps

OCD
 
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OP
Z

Zithras

Registered
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Jun 1, 2008
Argh. Hopefully, I'm not back to step one.

Does that dual bay res also work with a 655? I.e. can I use it with 4 fat boy fittings and connect it like a normal res? It says it's compatible with a 355, but I've never heard of a res that was specificially made NOT to work with other pumps?

If not, then would this work?
http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=934
They're not calling it a 655 mod...but the D5/450/655 are all the same so this should work right? (with a reservoir top connected to it, ofc)

Edit: looking at the dual bay res, it loops like it needs 355s to work properly. This is getting really annoying now - how hard can it be to find a good reservoir?!?

Does ANYONE know of a bay reservoir that takes up 2 5.25 bays, has 2 isolated loops, works with 655 pumps, and is IN STOCK (unlike the DD ones :( )?????????

Edit 2: Ah hah! What about this! After much searching...it looks like the XSPC dual bay 355 res, but WITHOUT the 355 holes! Perfect!
http://www.jab-tech.com/Acrylic-Dual-5.25-Split-Bay-Reservoir-pr-4636.html


If not, I'm looking at putting a koolance tank on top of the pump...which will be a pain to mount

@Conundrum - I see what you mean - thanks for the link.

Basically, what I want would work, but I would need all 3 barbs on the t, with the 3rd going to and 2-3 inch hose length, and put the quick disconnect on the end of that. Have you ever had any stagnant water problems in the hose that sticks out a bit? (I assume that PT nuke will still do its job, and there'll be some water flow if the end is short enough, but still water picks up growth better than moving water, so I thought I'd ask)

I think this drain idea will work.

If I do it this way though - is there anything bad that will happen leaving a quick disconnect disconnected for 99.99% of the time? (leaks, clogging, etc.)? Am I better off with a normal fillport? I like the quick disconnect idea because it's easy to just plug in a drain hose, but if it's going to cause problems, then I'll have to rethink.
 
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OP
Z

Zithras

Registered
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Jun 1, 2008
Alright...it's finally planned. Here's the final parts list. I plan on ordering in the next day or two.

PLEASEPLEASEPLEASE tell me if there's something I'm forgetting, or a huge mistake I'm making somewhere in here, but I think this is it. If you see anything at all I'll also need, please tell me, as I'd much rather order it now than realize it's missing and have to wait two more weeks until the other parts are past their 30 day DOA returns...Thank you to everyone who has been so much help in planning out this monster, I never would have even considered watercooling without the huge and helpful forum support base out there. Special thanks to Ecelctic (with all the nice pictures), Conumdrum (who apparently lives somewhere in for OC forum servers, or at least never sleeps), Tarnumf and MrLinky, and Namtaro on the forums I've posted this on)

This will be sooo fun to put together - and hopefully one of the quietest computers I've ever made...my only worry is leaks...

Loop 1: Pump->T->CPU->Rad->Res->pump
Loop 2: Pump->T->GPU1->Rad1->GPU2->GPU3->Rad2->Res->pump
(I hope I have enough space between the cards - if not, it'll have to be all 3 gpus, then the two rads)

Airflow: 12 radiator fans (side) pulling air into the case, 2 front fans over the hard drive bays pulling air into the case, 12 fans (5 back, 4 front, 3 top) pushing air out of the case (Yes, the front has 2 fans pulling and 4 pushing, but it's probably not a huge deal.)

Processor: Intel 980X
Case: Mountain mods Ascension CYO
MB: ASUS Rampage III Extreme (overclocks as well as the Classified, and I'd rather have USB 3.0 than dual gigabit, since that's really the choice it came down to)
PSU: Antec TPQ-1200 1200W
RAM: 2xTrident 3x2GB Trident DDR3 2000 (12 GB total @ somewhere between 1600ish-2000ish)
Video card: 3xSapphire 100281-3SR Radeon HD 5870
Audio card: ASUS Xonar Essence STX PCIe
Hard Drives: SSD + 2xRaid1 2TB HDD
Optical Drivesx2
Pump: 2x Swiftech MCP655
Reservoir: XSPC Dual Bay Split Reservoir
Radiator: 3x Thermochill PA 120.4 with 15mm spacing
Radiator fan (CPU loop): 4xScythe GentleTyphoon D1225C12B5AP-15 1850 RPM
Radiator fan (GPU loop): 8xScythe GentleTyphoon D1225C12B3AP-13 1150 RPM
Other fans: 14xScythe GentleTyphoon D1225C12B3AP-13 1150 RPM
Fan Controller (CPU loop): Scythe KM01-BK "Kaze Master" 5.25" Bay Fan Controller
Fan Screws: Acousti Black Fan Mounts (noise control)
Tubing: Primochill PrimoFlex Pro LRT 1/2" ID x 2/4" OD UV Blue
Clamps: 3/8 to 7/8 (9.5mm to 22.2mm) Clamp Dia., 1/2 Band, SEA #6 Hose Clamps, Stainless
Barbs: Danger Den Fat Boy 1/2" OD G 1/4 fittings
CPU Block: EK-Supreme HE High Flow Copper
Coolant Additives: PTNuke + 1 oz silver bar per loop (in reservoir)
Card Reader: 3.5" bay reader in 5.25" bay
Other: 4xEvercool Black 5.25" Drive Bay One Touch Spring Loaded Storage Box - same price as MM bay covers, and more useful.
Thermal Paste: OCZ Freeze Extreme Thermal
Thermal Pad: Cheapest I can find (in case I need some for GPUs)
Pump base/mounting: 2xGelstuff (pumps unmounted, on Gelstuff for noise control)
Speakers, Keyboard, mouse, mousepad, DVI cables, Ethernet cable, monitors, active DisplayPort adapter...
Video Blocks: 3x DangerDen 5870 Water Block with 1xXfire fitting kit
Mounting: Velcro cable ties, cable ties, velcro tape, 4x fan extension cable (cpu radiator) 6x molex extension cable (other fans, just in case)
Cold cathode kit: Blue (Apparently the UV coating in the tubes dies fast, but blue lights look almost as good :D)
PSU Noise control: Vibration pad (apparently switching out the PWM fans is bad)
Rubber HDD screws (more noise control)
Tline: 2x Delrin Tee with DD fittings
Empty port: 3rd T connection fitted to 6 inch hose with a disconnected VL3N quick disconnect on the end - will plug in the other end (with attached hose) when it's time to empty the loop.

(Crossposted to all the various forums I've asked for help on :D)
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
Ohh, the unobtanium barbs are new, just came out. No gunk and lower temps.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unobtainium
Just kidding........

PHN PT-Nuke if your store carries it, no biggie.

And order a big big box of slow down take your time once you begin building. I think you should build it on air first, run it a week to be sure it'a ALL fine. Then begin to plan for watercooling. I've been at this a while, I would spend 3-5 days building the WC, and 2 days to test/bleed before I'd even apply power to that mobo to boot up.

Edit, MM case? Add another day for WC and wire management. You HAVE to make it pretty.

EDIT again: Expect setbacks, needing a 90 degree barb, leaking something etc.
 

Widowmker

Member
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Apr 11, 2010
Location
U.S.A.
Zithras - I just came across this thread, boy my eyes hurt. Looks like your good to go but I'll throw this out there anyway. You can fit a 120x4 rad (GPU's) in the roof of the 800D with a minor mod of cutting a longer opening in the roof,

there's plenty of room for a 120x4 rad (maybe even a 120x5 or a 140x4 depending on how wide the 140 is). I have an 800D and that's my next move, I'm going to stuff the roof to the gills with rad to fully utilize that space.

You can mount a 120x3 rad (CPU) on the back of the case with ~5"-6" sticking above the top of the case with no mods, you'll only have to drill 2 new holes for the water lines with a unibit and re-use the rubber grommets from the factory water line holes.

Doing this you should have plenty of room to fit everything else neatly inside the case and look good.

Again, I just thought I'd throw this out there cause you said you'd rather not have a giant case.

Keyboard/mouse - If you or know someone that lives near a MicroCenter (it's in store only) here's a nice keyboard/mouse combo. I picked one up a couple weeks ago, it's nice and you can't beat the price.

http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0327328
 
OP
Z

Zithras

Registered
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Jun 1, 2008
Yup - I'm planning to test the video cards/peripherals/monitors/as much as possible on another computer first. Can't do that for the RAM unfortunately. I'll probably set the system up over about a week, and let it bleed for 1-2 days before powerup.

I probably won't run it on air first, since I'll then have to redo all the cable routing/mounting/etc. but I would really like to figure out a way to leaktest before I connect up the wc setup. If not, I'll connect it all up and leaktest before I power on the PSU/computer.

About leak testing...how do I test the loop without connecting up the cpu block and gpu blocks to the cards? I need to connect them up to verify tubing lengths, but can't really leaktest just the watercooling system if it's already connected to PC components.

Will I be okay with just estimating tubing lengths and cutting everything a couple inches longer than my estimates? That's the only other idea I have for leaktesting before final assembly...otherwise, it's test parts, assemble, leaktest the assembled system, and then power on.
 

Conumdrum

Member
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Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
Very much so, make them a bit longer than needed, hope for the best. For a new guy, a leak test outside the PC teaches a TON. Best way to go for the uber careful, no rush.

Do what you feel is best, it's all your stuff. You'll be good with your careful methods.
 
OP
Z

Zithras

Registered
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Jun 1, 2008
Thanks - the last thing I want to do is ruin so much expensive hardware :)

I'll try and post updates as I go, or at least the finished product. More than likely, though, I'll be back here during assembly asking questions (What's that weird square doohickey with 'Intel' on the shiny metal top that came in the box marked 980X? miniFrisbee? :D)

Edit:

Browsing around some more trying to kill time, and had another question: Push vs. pull.

This question's been asked forever, and I've read all the threads, so my question isn't so much what to use as a question of semantics:

I have 1150 and 1850 RPM fans on this computer, and want to use a pull setup (good for slow to medium speed fans). That is, I want to pull outside air (ambient air) through into the case, through the radiator (I assume)

I always thought this meant that the order would be case->radiator->fan, with fan sucking air in from outside THROUGH the radiator (hence the 'pull' term, since its pulling through the rad), but in browsing just now, saw a configuration labeled as 'pull' with a picture of case->fan->radiator, with the fans pulling air from the outside (ambient) and PUSHING it through the radiator.

Is the picture confused, or am I?

Which is 'pull'?
a) fans sucking air in from outside the case into the case, order case->radiator->fans
or
b) fans sucking air in from outside the case into the case, order case->fans->radiator

I always assumed b), but maybe I'm wrong...in fact, I might well be, seeing as how a) would seem to give more airflow, now that i think on it...

Edit: can I use closed-fan rubber fan mounts to mount the radiators/fins, or will they not handle the weight of a waterfilled radiator? If not, I'll strip the washers off some anti-vibration screws and use them on the longer radiator screws that come with the rad
 
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Widowmker

Member
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Apr 11, 2010
Location
U.S.A.
Push or pull relates to how the fans are mounted to the rad not how it's mounted in the case.

Push - Fans push the air through the rad
Pull - Fans pull the air through the rad
Push/Pull - Fans mounted on each side of rad with fan on one side pushing air through rad while the fan on the other side pulls that air through the rad

For Example: (All 3 of these mountings have the same result , Air goes through rad out of the case)

PUSH ................ Fan --> Rad --> Case ..................... Fans push air through rad out the case
PULL ................. Rad --> Fan --> Case ..................... Fans pull air through rad out the case
PUSH/PULL ....... Fan1 --> Rad --> Fan2 --> Case ..... Fan1 pushes air through the rad, Fan2 pulls that air through the rad and exits out the case

With closed corner fans I'd use screws, when you mount the fans to the rad and rad to the case make sure the screws aren't too long so you don't puncture the rad.

Have fun building.
 
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OP
Z

Zithras

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Jun 1, 2008
So there's no version where the fans pull air through the radiator into the case?

Wouldn't this be more efficient, since the outside air is likely cooler than the air inside the case?

Confused,
Zithras
 

Conumdrum

Member
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Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
You point the fans in the direction you like. Depending what side of the rad you put the fans, you make the fan push or pull. I think your overthinking this too much.

Fans have one direction for air, you can reverse them. You can mount them on either side of the rad. Whats the issue?
 
OP
Z

Zithras

Registered
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Jun 1, 2008
LOL you're absolutely right - I saw a confusing post and started overthinking - I'll stop now :D

In other news, parts have started coming in...and Amazon's 'super saver' shipping turned out to be faster than their normal shipping for a few of my parts - go figure. Still waiting on most of the parts
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
Someone tried to open your eyes, but it's so really simple you 'get it' or you don't. He tried, you just needed a shot and a ?? from a friend at a bar. All is good.

Ohh some rads have a slightly deeper space from the fan mount to the fins one one side from the other. It helps make the flow a TEENY bit better. Not an issue, but pay attention to the rad you buy, it could help a bit.

But................. Don't overthink it, it's not a big deal.