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Northridge and Clock Generator cooling??

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MooT

Registered
Joined
Dec 20, 2000
I've got a 48mm by 48m by 15mm heatsink that I'm thinking about putting on my 815E chipset on my SH6. The heatsink has 4 rows of 13 fins that are about 9-11m's wide. And I'm wondering if this would be a good replacement for the greenie that is on there?? I'm gonna have to cut off a fin off from two diagonally opposite corners to drill the holes for the retention mechanism's!! How close to flat are the 815e chips?? Would it be wise to lap it if it weren't?? I'm going to get the airflow running through the heatsink with my PEP66.. I've also put a heatsink on my Clock Gen, I got it from Radio Shack it's one of those black anodized V/R heatsinks.. The Clock gen for the SH6 is the chip named the RTM560-25 right?? Well thats enough blabing for now...........
 
instead of running just a HS put a HSF [heatsinkfan] on it and turn it so that the air from your CPU does not go through the fins, you dont want to cool your northbridge with warm air. do not lapp the northbridge chip and dont worry about drilling holes you can use your favorite thermal compound on it and use 4 drops of super glue in the corners to hold it in place. I cut down a rather large HSF from a AMD CPU i used a hacksaw to trim it to size and then i used a file to clean up the edges then since the HSF was black i used a sharpie to color the areas where i cut on and this looks proffesional as well as works great not only that it was only 5 bucks i went to a local PC store and asked if they had any cheap HSF's that were not selling well and then asked if they could make me a deal on one of them and this has worked twice in 2 different stores and ive only tried twice so it should work for you. Also i'm running at 167FSB and this HSF is doing more then enough cooling to keep me stable. goodluck.
 
MooT.....I did something like that too. Had an old 486 HS and cut the fins back at the corners,drilled the holes and used the greenies mounting pins. It barely made it....but it worked. I also had a discarded vid card fan...out of a GF ddr..and mounted that to the HS. I threaded (2) mobo standoffs into the fins,opposite corners from the mounting pins, and clipped (2) of the mounting arms off the fan. The standoffs provided the needed height for the fan blades. Looked pretty good all done..except for the slot1 board config hehehe...

This should work fine on any socket based board though. Go for it.
 
The 815E chip on my SH6 is concave. So I used more artic silver around the center. Due to the fan direction on the alpha, I have the fan on my greenie sucking. No temperature drop detected (using a DD5). I wanted to put a thicker hsf there but ran into clearance problems.
 
if your creative and liked to mod things you could cut down the bottom of a large HSF to fit just cutting the bottom out so that they fit around your components but leaving the upper part of the cooling fins alone and this would give you what your looking for, those greenies just dont cut it at really high FSB. Good idea about filling the concave part with thermal compound and i just learnerd something new about this glueing the HSF on you can use arctic silver for your thermal compound and use arctic silver glue in the corners so that your HSF can be removed if neccesary i dont have the pateints to wait for mail order so the super glue method still works fine by me
 
I was planning on moding my PEP66 to fit around the heatsink I'm putting on my Northbridge. So that the suction of the Delta would pull through my Northbridge and my PEP66 simultaneously. I'll get pictures whe I'm done with it. Do yall know a good place to get 50x50x50mm heatsinks for a good price??
 
a friend had a P3V4X with a 733EB that just wouldn't stay stable. Even if it wasn't overclocked. Temps were normal and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. Several small modifications were done by us, but one particular was smearing AS over the northbridge and using super glue gel to hold down an old pentium HSF. Can't say exactly what fixed the instability, but I konw his NB was very warm to the touch, both sides of the board. Now it's very cool on the opposite side and I suspect this may have helped.
 
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