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Not only BX boards works with tualatins!

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Cemal Gurel

Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2002
Location
Ankara/Turkey
Hi,
I have an Asus P3C-E Slot 1 mobo and it has a i820 chipset and have tried to run Tualatin CPU's like BX mobos and find a better and easier way for both! (Maybe for non-tualatin based 810 and 815 chipset based ones too, I couldn't test, but you may try it...)

We only need to insulate 7 pins. No need to bridge AK4 on the CPU. I used an Asus S370-DL adapter. The pins should be insulated are: AN3, AK4, AJ3, AG1, X4, AB36 and X34. To insulate you can use single wire telephone box type cable, by pulling the copper wire in it, to use the plastic protector for the pin isolator, without widening the holes, which is easier. You can cut the plastic protector at the same hight of the CPU pins. (Don't worry, they are not shot-circuting.) Basicly insert the cable to the pin and cut it with a model knife, from the upper surface of the pins. After some time, if you remove the CPU, those plastic parts stays inside the 370 Socket, I have inserted the CPU several times without doing the insulation work again and again. (To see this, don't immidately remove the CPU, close the arm, run the processor some time, then... remove it. The heat and the pin holder reshapes the plastic protector to make this happen.) But if you mistakenly drop the plastic parts to the 370 Socket, use your model knife to push from the 4 holding guides from top (by inserting the knife througly in it) and hold upwards 4 of the upper part guides one by one, starting from the opposite side of the removing arm.

Detail is here: AG1 and X34 are VCC on S370-DL adapter, but VTT on the tualatin CPU. AJ3 and X4 are GND on S370-DL adaptor but RESET2# and GND on the CPU, however AH4 and X4 are connected as RESET on the S370-DL adaptor therefore X4 needs to be insulated. As you know AK4 doesn't have to touch GND and thus needs to be insulated like DYN_OE on AN3. Lastly AB36 is safer to insulate which decreases the mobo and CPU temperature about 5'C degrees that, V_CMOS signal is unnecessary to connect to VTT.

OK, I have manged to run a Celeron 1100A at 1466MHZ very stable. Mine was a tA1 stepping one and works with 1.475Volts. Therfore I need to adjust the Voltage jumper to 1.5Volt over the S370-DL adapter. If your CPU works with 1.5 Volts, you may set it to Auto Detect. 1.45Volt based P3-S type 512kB cache based Tualatin CPU's may also accept to run with Auto Detect. But 1.475Volt ones MUST have to be adjusted to 1.5Volt over the S370-DL manually. This is related with VRM 8.4 and 8.5 spec. difference. If you don't have an Asus S370-DL adapter and no have an on board Voltage adjustment jumper down to 1.5Volts, then don't buy 1.475Volt CPU's or make yourself a vid pin Voltage adaper.

I have a Celeron 1400 CPU too, which works with 1.5Volts and manage to run it with an OEM SUPER SLOCKET-III type Chinese adapter, but it crashed several times although I run it at normal 1400Mhz. My bios suprisingly displayed a P2 1200Mhz processor on the post screen with both of the adapters. But I have tested it with WCPUID and SiSoft Sandra 2003, they both said it is a 1400Mhz processor. (Exactly 1413.21Mhz) This is because of the non-tualatin based bios. I have overclocked it to 103, 105 and 107Mhz but this time it displayed 1442, 1470 and 1499Mhz processor at the post screen truely. I didn't pushed it more, maybe it goes true 109 and 112? Celeron 1100A displayed OK at the post screen when running it at it's original speed. I wonder why it did, but 1400 didn't, according to my latest 1025 beta 2 build bios? Both the CPU's are tA1 and Philippines manufacture.

I want to add last couple of things for today. If you have another type, other than S370-DL adapter, check the following things to make sure.

-G36 is VTT and generally G37 is left open. If it is not connected to anywhere else, connect it to G36 for better VTT performance.
-AM2 is KEY pin on Tualatins but generally not used on Socket 370's. If it is connected to anywhere else, insulate that pin too.

To check the connections, use a beeping testmeter at, for example 200 ohm switch. To make sure, it is not indirectly connected. If it beeps and displays around 2 or 3 ohms, this means it is directly connected and, 10 to 50 ohms or up means it is connected via the on board components, which also means it is connected too.

I am a Moslem and Turkish man, but happy new chistmas to you all from Ankara. I hope the new year brings peace at last...
 
I sold a Celeron 1.0A with Super SlocketIII to someone with a P3C-E and he was able to get it working with the traditional mod.

Insulate the 3 pins
Bridge AK4 to AN11 (or any other Vtt pin)
Bridge G35 to G37
Bridge VID25m to VID0 to set voltage to 1.45v (from 1.475v)
 
Hello again,
I have forgotten to add one thing to my 'Not only BX boards runs Tualatins!' article. Althogh there is a Celeron CPU running on the adapter. Set the CPU jumper to PIII not to Celeron. PIII setting is better and also necessary for both the CPU and adapter. Celeron setting is for 0.25micron PPGA type non-copper Celerons. Other single jumper is of course needs to be settled to Intel CPU. Sorry for forgetting the jumper setting. I have written to many things at once...

By the way, I advise all the modder people to try this way to prevent board blow out first. Do not even try the other medhod and if possible reverse your running old method type with this one. The other 3 pin and bridge way is really dangerous because of having short-circuit at AG1 and X34. Those pins are generally connected to VCC for running PPGA type Celeron CPU's on adapter cards and mobos. Which now are used as VTT on tualatins. Intel design guidelines strictly advises not to short-circuit any other type of signals with each other. If you do this, your CPU and mobo components may die immidately or after some time. I have read so many people has killed their mobo by trying the false method. My way not only runs the CPU at its desired 35~40'C around temperature but also allows for correct VCC (CPU core Voltage) value as specified by Intel. Old way runs the CPU with 1.8Volts which shortens the life of the CPU.
 
Oh I see another bug,
jmsandrsn is right, I also mistakenly write '-G36 is VTT and generally G37 is left open.' There is no G36 pin, this pin is G35. Sorry again,
 
Maybe I need to post one more detail. As I have said I have two Tualatin CPU's. The bigger fan based Celeron 1100A is quite naughty. When I touch the Heatsink after some time, the computer restarts. But not with the smaller fan based Celeron 1400. If you experience such a silly thing, simply connect the heatsink to computer ground. This might be related with EMI (electro magnetic interference) all the big fan based P4 heatsinks are connected to Computer GND for that reason. You may connect a cable to the heatsink and link it to computer case or connect a thermal sensor to the CPU body, which has a GND connection on one pin, or under the heatsink put an isolating conductive material, at various heatsinks this type was used, or simply don't touch the heatsink if you experience this, when the computer is on. Even tough CPU protective plate has no contact with inner CPU dye, this occurs at some designs.
 
Hi Cemal, nice article! I didn't know that the mod ould work on i820 chipset.
On my sloket (Abit Sloket III ) I only insulated AN3, AK4, AJ3. I didn't need any other insulations or bridges.
 
Cemal Gurel,
What about the powerleap adapter? is it running everything "properly", as you say...?
 
i got a tualeron working one my via133 cuv4x. i did exactly what belinassu's site shows.
 
Thx Cemal,

very interesting theory that you just explained in your little article, especially as I'm using a Asus S370-DLm Slotket and a modded Tualatin at the moment!
I think I'll soon try your way of modding the CPU/Slotket, because I just blew a Abit BE6-II(I'm not sure if it was the mod, or just a problem that the board already had).

BTW, I wish you a happy new Year, too!

;) :)
 
Does this picture show the right way to mod the CPU???

The red dots represent the pins that have to be isolated/removed.

tualatin-backMod.jpg


Well, and how about posting about your NEW way of modding the Tualatins, here:

http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=67417&highlight=tualatin+powerleap

It's the main thread for everything concerning the Tualatin Mod!;) :D
 
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Of course power leap and other original adapters are the optimum designs for managing all the necessary pins. I mean by isolating we can not use 3 VTT pins at AG1, AB36, X34 and 1 VSS pin at X4. But suprisingly it has 2 less pins. AN15 which can be used normally as VTT and AB36 with pin design too. So they have 2 less VTT pins either.

By the way AG1 pin is actually EDGCTRL pin but, has a 50ohm connection with VCC, therefore I defined it as a VCC above.

I have looked at Belinassu's site and thought that the description is for BX only. There are various adapters and various mobos with various chipsets. I am trying to be as much as general for all 8xx and BX series. The adapters are build up to coppermines as you know. But they have support for all the processors until that time. Some of which also supports Cyrix CPU's. This makes the work harder to trace the circuitry diagrams. Therefore I have found more pins than others did. If you have an abnormal temperature such as over 50'C degrees on your CPU and mobo, and see more than 1.5 Volts for the normal CPU core, have a try my design for the sake of your system. They can not handle for a long time. I know the isolation and bridgeing takes too much time and afford, but maybe I am too late. Well I hope all the boards last long enough but I am sure not as long as I build.
 
Hi,

Your mtd seems to be more tidy. I'm now using the ak4 - an11 connection plus 3 pin insulation. I've an asus s370-133 slotket. but you mention using the asus s370-dl. Are you talking about the old version of the slotket ie the one which cannot support coppermine?

Can it worked with the new s370-133 as well?

Anyway, to put it simply, I just insulate the pins at the locations stated and that's all, right?

Thanks alot!
 
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