OK need input on new WC setup

[Section8]

I have read the sticky's and been hanging around for a few months now soaking up as much info as I can and here is what I have came up with. I plan on installing this on my next rig which I will purchase at the same time. It will be a socket 939 FX-53 system. Here is what I was thinking as I will want to push this rig as far as I can on water.

All 1/2 fittings
OK I think this is the Final Revision. After learning how to read a graph properly I realized that the DD pump looks very good besides the fact it puts a little more heat into the system than the Swifty it lokks great.


CPU Waterblock- Swiftech MCW6002-64

GPU Waterblock- Swiftech MCW50 GPU Cooler

Heater Core- The Double Heater Core from DD with Shroud

Pump- Danger Den DD12V-D4 pump

Tubing- Tygon Tubing 1/2" ID 3/4" OD
2 Fans- Evercool Chrome 120mm Fan 80 CFM 2000 RPM 30Db

Couple things yet. I wanted to go with the Cascade CPU waterblock as it seems to be the best out but it also seems impossible to get.
I also am not sure if I should go with a T line to Bleed/Fill. Will a Reservoir kill the performance of the system that much if any at all? I like the looks of them but don't want to use it if it degrades the performance. Also is Water Wetter the absolute best product to use? I know it stains but does it perform the best at dissipating the heat?
Thanks in advance and I look forward to your input.

 

[Animal982]

Looks good. I myself am partial to trying to keep copper and aluminum components in the same loop due to the chance of corrosion. That problem is easily solved with one of the many additives but still if I can avoid it I do. The new Silverprop SL and HL have brass tops instead of aluminum tops like the DD GPU block so you might want to check them out. Also the new SwiftTech MCW6000/6002 blocks looks to beat the WW block at just about every flowrate according to the ProCooling review but the review didnt mention the pressure drop. They are also not avalible just yet but should be within the next couple weeks.

 

[b0bby]

They are also not avalible just yet but should be within the next couple weeks.

the 6000/6002 been out but sold out at every store.

 

[RedViper]

Is aluminum still an issue if it's annodized?

 

[Stedeman]

The 6002 should be here on the 9th (I pre ordered 2 of them)

Is aluminum still an issue if it's annodized?

It should be fine if it been anodized professionally.

 

[frodoski]

Check this thread: http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=302066&highlight=tc-4 (pictures are missing, but from the text, you get the idea)

The block referred to in the thread is an anodized block. Unless proper precautions to prevent corrosion are taken...(i.e.: anti-freeze added to water, etc.) this can happen.

 

[=ACID RAIN=]

Man I keep telling folks the fusion HL blocks are great. No corrosion issues (if everything else is copper/brass too) and it cools like a champ. Forget that anodizing crap, and skip the antifreeze too. I've got straight H2O (with a little reactive dye) in my system, had it for months, and my components are pristine and the tubes are nice and clear.

 

[RedViper]

Man I keep telling folks the fusion HL blocks are great. No corrosion issues (if everything else is copper/brass too) and it cools like a champ. Forget that anodizing crap, and skip the antifreeze too. I've got straight H2O (with a little reactive dye) in my system, had it for months, and my components are pristine and the tubes are nice and clear.

Gee, I wish I would had remembered to look at the Silverprop GPU blocks before I went with Panaflo. Somethings I don't understand though. How can a Silverprop be immune to galvanic corrosion if its base is copper? And if you're running straight tap water why you don't have flora and fauna in your loop plus calcium scale?

 

[MoonWolf]

When I was setting my own system up, people told me to stay away from Water Wetter. Supposedly, it stains your tubing pink and builds up on the inside of your pump and waterblock while not providing a huge performance increase over water with antifreeze.

Everything else looks goodto me


*EDIT: Also, if you bought your heatercore locally, like at AutoZone, you would save yourself some money.

 

[Section8]

Wow good feedback. I will look into those other blocks some more. I know I can get a heater core for like 20 bucks but I don't want to mess around with soldering the barbs on. I know water wetter stains but I have never heard of any other draw backs. Has anyone else had a problem with water wetter messing up there pump or any other component of there system? Thanks.

 

[RedViper]

Wow good feedback. I will look into those other blocks some more. I know I can get a heater core for like 20 bucks but I don't want to mess around with soldering the barbs on. I know water wetter stains but I have never heard of any other draw backs. Has anyone else had a problem with water wetter messing up there pump or any other component of there system? Thanks.

In all honesty, I think the jury is still out on water wetter. For all the folks who say it sucks, there are an equal amount who swear by it, and that includes reviewers. As a corrosion/errosion inhibitor it works, as a coolant not that much. It does appear to stain tubing, but that doesn't bother me. I haven't read any trusted corroboration for it gumming things up, and so far my pump and acrylic-topped CPU block are clean as a whistle. Considering the conflicting data, I guess I'll just wait and see.

 

[MoonWolf]

I have not actually used Water Wetter myself even though I went out and bought a bottle, I went with some pretty blue antifreeze.

 

[Section8]

So where is the Aluminum being introduced to the system? Is it the barbs that are Aluminum? If they are they look to be anodized but you say that is still bad right? So what should I do look for a block with plastic barbs or one like Swiftech's that are integrated right into the block? If the White Water is bad what else would you suggest that I could easily get? I know you said the Swiftech Block but that seems to be hard to get right now. What about the DangerDen TDX block? Does that also have aluminum barbs?

 

[Section8]

OK the MCW6002 is looking great but how is the GPU block the Swiftech MCW50? How do those quick connects work? I mean are they designed to use 1/2 ID 3/4 OD tubing?

 

[Section8]

OK I changed a few things. I edited my 1st post a little...Hehehehe

 

[frodoski]

The aluminum in your proposed water cooling system components is in the top of the MCW50 GPU waterblock.

The quick connect fittings are plastic.

 

[Section8]

If Aluminum is such a big deal why to companies make waterblocks with Aluminum and Copper? Does the Maze4 GPU block have Aluminum used in its construction because if no then I will use that block instead I guess. I don't want to ruin my damn water setup that’s for sure....

Thanks for pointing that out to me though. I didn't realize that it had aluminum in it.

 

[Stedeman]

Aluminum is used for 2 main reasons 1st it's much cheaper and 2nd it is easier to machine than Copper. All relate to the profit margin The level of anodizing is the key to reactivity and a good professionally anodized block is fine. Most likely all the junk in the tubes and blocks is caused by algae from the water (untreated or improperly treated water) or from tubes (lower quality should use food grade or better).

 

[MoonWolf]

Just put antifreeze in your water and you're set. I'd say about 4 tablespoons per half gallon.