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Options, options and what to do? Metals, Connections a new build advice

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joedreamliner78

Registered
Joined
Dec 4, 2016
UPDATED

Hi everyone, I am new here and I have been reading quite a bit and I love this forum! Such awesome and inspiring people here! My last build currently running is a 2600K O.C to 4.4Ghz (Asus Maximus Extreme Z) with a corsair H100i on the cooler and recently went from a 7970 Radeon to a GTX 1080 Founders Edition in a Cooler Master HAF 932 and 1000W modular power supply older thermaltake unit.

So finally I decided it's time for an upgrade and I want to go full WC. I have already ordered a MSI Godlike X99 Carbon MB, i7 6850K, Intel 750 Series AIC 800GB PCI-Express 3.0, and CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4, EVGA Supernova G3 1000W P.S. I plan to swap in my GTX 1080 Founders edition.
I am an electrician and an electrical engineer. I bend a ton of conduit and when I saw PETG tubing, compression fittings in a PC's my jaw hit the floor and I said I have to do this!

So here it goes. I love the new thermal take Tower 900 (link below) and it's setup! I want to do something very similar except a different color scheme. I am going to do two separate loops. http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002974

You guys do this everyday any advice is greatly appreciated!

Here are my concerns: Water cooling budget: $2000

Notes: Two loops: I plan to use a 480 for the GPU cooling loop and a 240 for the CPU cooling loop. Planning to use PETG tubing 13mm. I may expand to an SLI GPU setup but that will be later on.

1: Mixing metals: I noticed with Thermaltake it's an Aluminum radiator so I am tossing that out..because I do not want to risk corrosion.
Which radiator (480mm) is the best to use? Need multiple ports top, bottom (for drain) etc.. I saw EK uses Copper Rads but the reviews are hit or miss..so here is where your experience comes into play.

2: Fittings: Who makes the best fittings? Best places to purchase?

3: Water blocks: I want zero risk of mixing metals so please recommend the best water blocks in your opinion for my GPU and CPU.

4: Reservoirs/Pumps: I really like the pump/resi combo unit. Please recommend something similar to the Thermaltake Pacific DIY LCS PR22-D5 or what you think might be best here.

5: Coolant: I plan to go with Pink on the left and Bright Green on the right. Which coolant will work best as I noticed there are issues with pigments etc...??
UPDATE: PrimoChill 1/2 in. rigid seems the way to go. I will go with UV reactive pink/green tubing so I do not use any dye. Thoughts?

6: Lighting Fans: I am planning to use Thermaltake RGB Riing Prem. lighting so I can control via software.

7: Lighting Case: I am looking into NZXT Hue+?? Looks pretty good...My X99 MSI does not have an RGB header so I missed that :bang head but the mystic light might be nice.

Thank you guys very much in advance!
 
Last edited:

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
Hang out read 500 posts. Give it a few weeks. Glad you stopped by, learn a bit. We have MANY stickies at the top of this sub forum. You need to read these. Don't rush it. I spent 3 months learning once I decided to WC before I ordered one part. It's a particular animal, and wrong impedance between parts can cause much costs to the design team.

- - - Updated - - -

UV rigid. Good luck, it's not easy to use. You have enough to worry about. Focus on pump/blocks/liquids/cooling/fans/rads.

And why the heck are you running two loops? Thatssss sooo 2010 not done anymore......
 
OP
J

joedreamliner78

Registered
Joined
Dec 4, 2016
Hang out read 500 posts. Give it a few weeks. Glad you stopped by, learn a bit. We have MANY stickies at the top of this sub forum. You need to read these. Don't rush it. I spent 3 months learning once I decided to WC before I ordered one part. It's a particular animal, and wrong impedance between parts can cause much costs to the design team.

- - - Updated - - -

UV rigid. Good luck, it's not easy to use. You have enough to worry about. Focus on pump/blocks/liquids/cooling/fans/rads.

And why the heck are you running two loops? Thatssss sooo 2010 not done anymore......

Hi Conumdrum and thank you for responding. I was reading a bit of your stickies and I love the information and thought you put into them as well as the user comments too. Why would UV Rigid be anymore difficult to bend then a clear PETG? I know there incredible gurus here and I saw a bunch of fancy bending rulers etc but I am an electrician and I have a way you can pre-measure a line without using any rulers. Take a piece of 12AWG solid from either romex or a thhn roll and simply place it in the center of your fitting and bend it where you want to go to the next fitting. Trim the lengths and there is your template. I used to do it in my earlier pipe bending days of EMT when I would get confused on the orientation my hand bender would go ;). Same with PVC Rigid we use a heater designed to heat PVC and we bend it as needed. We deal with compression fittings on a daily basis from sealtite etc.. The bending of the tubing and getting it perfect like wiring in my panels is the least I know I can handle. But you are right focusing on the other equipment is important! I appreciate your help!

Oh I forgot to address why two loops. Honestly its for aesthetics so I can have two colors in the system my favorite color is green and the fiance' is pink :rolleyes:
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
Color... Meaning colored tubing right? No funny colored liquids? Clear additives that one of our members uses now?

Just wanted to mention tubing. Rigid is hard to work with, just need extra tubing probably on the first rig to get it right. However you measure is your thing.

Looks like your doing fine, focus on the main hardware and use whatever tubing you want.

Copper/brass/nickle/chrome/plastics all work fine together. It's just alum we worry about.

Raddage vs heatload, fannage vs type of rad/noise level is important. 120 x2 mm of rad (one 120mm fan on a rad) is usually good for about 100 watts for a reasonable Dt. With normal not rocket launch fan noise levels. Andddd gotta make it all fit.
 
OP
J

joedreamliner78

Registered
Joined
Dec 4, 2016
Color... Meaning colored tubing right? No funny colored liquids? Clear additives that one of our members uses now?

Just wanted to mention tubing. Rigid is hard to work with, just need extra tubing probably on the first rig to get it right. However you measure is your thing.

Looks like your doing fine, focus on the main hardware and use whatever tubing you want.

Copper/brass/nickle/chrome/plastics all work fine together. It's just alum we worry about.

Raddage vs heatload, fannage vs type of rad/noise level is important. 120 x2 mm of rad (one 120mm fan on a rad) is usually good for about 100 watts for a reasonable Dt. With normal not rocket launch fan noise levels. Andddd gotta make it all fit.

Man thanks for all the advice!
I ended purchasing about 20 feet of PETG. I bought the blocks, fittings, rads & tube from EKWB to eliminate possible mismatching. For fans I am using the EKWB F4-120ER and for rads I am using EK-CoolStream XE 480 and the XE 240. Luckily my MSI board has two cpu fan headers and two case headers. A couple of splitters and I am good to go and MSI also has their own fan controlling software I can use. Don't know why in hell thermal take is building aluminum rads??
As for tubing I noticed a lot of users had luck with using clear coolant and small amount of UV dye. From what I have been reading dye seems to be an issue when using soft tube. I am also prepared and look forward in performing maintenance to keep things clean you have some great tips about cleaning! Thank you!
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
Well dye is particulates. Bits get clogged in rads that with a billion cleaning never are the same. The channels in the blocks are very thin and high turbulence, which is good for heat xfer, but seems the bits like to lodge in the high 'vortex' areas. Meaning clogs. GTXJack Bower (I respect him) here has moved to a different solution. Clear additives.

The ones who use the pretty liquid with pretty builds here are usually pro builders with free stuff and need to keep building stuff. Builds don't last long, they are pretty for pics but not for long use.

You do it right, use the right parts, you only rebuild once a year, maybe longer. More time with the future wife gaming etc than fixing a POS with clogs. Pretty rigs. Nice. You only use the keyboard, mouse, and monitor. After a few days off 'ohh it's pretty' it's not important.

As a industrial electrician, once the wire is in and looks good, do you watch it later? Nope. I'm a industrial repairman that deals with computers, hyd, air, water, oil, electrical low and high voltage. And like PCs as a hobby. Pretty is one thing, reality and repair is another.
 
OP
J

joedreamliner78

Registered
Joined
Dec 4, 2016
Well dye is particulates. Bits get clogged in rads that with a billion cleaning never are the same. The channels in the blocks are very thin and high turbulence, which is good for heat xfer, but seems the bits like to lodge in the high 'vortex' areas. Meaning clogs. GTXJack Bower (I respect him) here has moved to a different solution. Clear additives.

The ones who use the pretty liquid with pretty builds here are usually pro builders with free stuff and need to keep building stuff. Builds don't last long, they are pretty for pics but not for long use.

You do it right, use the right parts, you only rebuild once a year, maybe longer. More time with the future wife gaming etc than fixing a POS with clogs. Pretty rigs. Nice. You only use the keyboard, mouse, and monitor. After a few days off 'ohh it's pretty' it's not important.

As a industrial electrician, once the wire is in and looks good, do you watch it later? Nope. I'm a industrial repairman that deals with computers, hyd, air, water, oil, electrical low and high voltage. And like PCs as a hobby. Pretty is one thing, reality and repair is another.

Great responses thank you!