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Painting case metallic that's almost a mirror

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Garfield

Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2001
Location
New Jersey
I'm thinking about doing this in the summer. I want to paint my case maybe metallic silver and/or green. I saw an article on a guy who did this and he made it look like a mirror! I have no experience in painting cases and what is needed (to make this finish), so could somebody help me out and give me an overview of this job?
 

takiwa

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2001
well, you start w/ a REAL good sanding job...you want to take it down to the metal, so you lose that bumpy texture from the factory paint. Spray a couple of coats of your color of choice (I'm not gonna get into the method in which you spray...read the directions on the can), wet-sanding in between coats with 1500-2000 grit paper to keep it nice and smooth. Then start spraying your clear coats. Sand in between coats with 2000-2500 grit sand paper...not enough to remove the coat, just enough to smooth it out. Some people even use #0000 steel wool for this step. Just add clear until you get a good-looking depth (this is entirely up to you). Finish with a rubbing compound, following directions on the bottle. You can apply wax after this step to really mirror the finish, and protect your case from wayward water :)D). Try that and post a pic of the results!
 

Ugmore Baggage

Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2002
use automotive enamel. It comes in a spray, levels very well, looks great waxed, and doesn't scratch easily. Mist each coat on slowly, the first coat won't even cover fully then slowly build it up over a few days. Be patient and it'll outlast the rest of your PC.
 
OP
Garfield

Garfield

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Joined
Dec 1, 2001
Location
New Jersey
Ugmore Baggage said:
use automotive enamel. It comes in a spray, levels very well, looks great waxed, and doesn't scratch easily. Mist each coat on slowly, the first coat won't even cover fully then slowly build it up over a few days. Be patient and it'll outlast the rest of your PC.

Hmmm...sounds like a good idea. Would I still have to sand down the paint on my case (factory paint) before I did this? Would all I need to use is automotive enamel?
 

takiwa

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2001
I suggested sanding the case down because most factory paint jobs have a bumpy, grainy texture to them, and it is easier to get a mirrored result on a flat surface...I agree w/ the automotive enamel, it will look the best when you are done. And in btween coats, after the sanding, wipe up with some tack cloth as well (forgot that in my first post...even though you wet-sand, there is still residue that can be picked up w/ the tack cloth)
 
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Garfield

Garfield

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Joined
Dec 1, 2001
Location
New Jersey
Oh, and would I paint the case first, and then put in a window? Or put in the window then paint the case?
 

Iron Hawk

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Joined
Jan 19, 2002
Location
Groton, CT
Put the window in first, then take it out and paint the case. if your case i allready painted, then you dont want to run the risk of cutting wrong and messing up your paint job.
 
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Garfield

Garfield

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Joined
Dec 1, 2001
Location
New Jersey
Iron Hawk said:
Put the window in first, then take it out and paint the case. if your case i allready painted, then you dont want to run the risk of cutting wrong and messing up your paint job.

Okay, I understand. Anybody have an idea how much this would come to (the paint, window, light, etc.)?
 

CrystalMethod

Senior Band Wagon Jumper
Joined
Jun 9, 2001
Location
Montreal, Quebec, Canada
All depends on how good you want it to look. I actually have a bill here for supplies to paint my case. Came up to about $27.00 Canadian dollars for one can of primer, 2 cans of paint and 3 packs of different grade sandpaper. I'm also buying in advance for 2 systems and I already have some of the required materials.
I just bumped one of my earlier threads, there's a link and a guide in there. It also has a list of all the materials you'll need.
 

DKC

Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2002
you want to take it down to the metal, so you lose that bumpy texture from the factory paint


alright, why do peopell keep saying that, you do NOT want to take it down to the metal, that is pointless, just make it flat is all. There is no point in ruining to professional chemical job on the previous paint because in the end it will help the new layer stick, just make it flat that's all
 

takiwa

Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2001
you want to take it down to the metal, so you lose that bumpy texture from the factory paint
well, I made that statement because I have painted 5 cases so far, and sanded all of them down to the metal, and non of them are flaking or peeling. I don't have a problem with my paint sticking to primer...they use the same chemicals on cars, and yet you are supposed to sand them down to the metal as well when you are doing a color change. If you are worried about your paint sticking (or not) the make accelerators that can be bought to promote adhesion...
 

stool

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2000
Location
Albany, NY
it will basically work either way, but bear this in mind. If, in the process of flattening out your finish you get it to bare metal, primer will still adhere to a properly prepared surface. The sections where bare metal were revealed come out just the same as those areas where paint remained.
 
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Garfield

Garfield

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Joined
Dec 1, 2001
Location
New Jersey
Robbiem01 said:
yes just make it flat. If you get to the metal it might be buppier then if you just sand the paint flat. And the chemicals help next coat stick.

EVERYONE that wants to paint their case should see this guide
http://www.pc-workshop.net/articles/paint101/paint101-1.shtml

and good luck. Post pics when you are done please

I'll definitely post some pictures, but I don't think I'll be doing this mod for awhile (maybe the summer). One, I would like to really read up on it so I don't screw up my case :rolleyes: and secondly, I don't have the money yet :D. Thanks for the link! :)
 

H8Edge

Registered
Joined
Feb 18, 2002
Location
Jersey U.S
Very nice links.. You guys have inspired me to go out and get a bunch of sandpaper, Metallic blue and Hammered Silver paint.. Looks like quite a project, but that mirrored finish looks so awesome it should be worth the effort.. I like how my Koolance looks, but that beige has got to go :) Now if this little tornado that's been goin on here would just go away...
 

H8Edge

Registered
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Feb 18, 2002
Location
Jersey U.S
Well.. Yea.. I'm still in the middle of it.. Drove me a little crazy.. I dunno if it's the metallic spray that I used.. but it was tough not getting high and low spots.. so I did alot of sanding and starting over.. but I kept getting highs and lows.. but it's not bad.. Of course everytime I sprayed something every insect in the area had to dive straight for the case.. :mad:

I got the side panels and the top finished.. but the front piece and the door arent working out great.. I'm gonna sand them again tomorow and try it again..

Id take a pic of the side panel right now and show ya how it looks but my girlfriend is sleeping behind me.. I'll take pics soon.. It's not as good as I wanted.. which was perfect... but it's pretty good.. for my first time.. But between the bugs, the highs n lows, running paint, and other little screw ups, the whole thing isn't easy.. Ya need patience.. I might go with a solid color next time.. I think that'll be easier..
 

Brant

Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2002
I painted my case metallic black with a high mirror finish. If you want a mirror finsih use a dark color. Dont use metallic silver