• Welcome to Overclockers Forums! Join us to reply in threads, receive reduced ads, and to customize your site experience!

Parts, what u think?

Overclockers is supported by our readers. When you click a link to make a purchase, we may earn a commission. Learn More.

nicayotte

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2007
Location
WisCANson
Tell me what you think. I plan to add a second rad and block for my "future" nvidia series card when it comes out. All of this is applying to the specs in my comment (minus VC) in an antec 1200.

97a14ad578163d091389e734d3d5a7d9.jpg
 

muddocktor

Retired
Joined
Nov 1, 2001
Location
New Iberia, LA
waterblock - I have no idea about that one. Personally I would go with an Apogee XT or Heatkiller 3.0 and save some coin. Both are known high performance blocks on i7.

pump - good choice. But I would go with either the XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25in Reservoir for Laing DDC or the XSPC Acrylic Reservoir for Laing DDC instead of that EK res, since they both combine a high performance fluid end for that DDC pump and also accept either 3/8" or 1/2" barbs. The stock pump doesn't have replaceable barbs and they are 3/8". And going this route will neaten up the inside of your case. I have the second one I linked (the res top) and it's really good and it's easy to bleed and fill.

radiator - Good choice. Price performance leader.

tubing - No experience with the Feser tubing. But I have used the PrimoFlex Pro LRT White Tubing and it's great stuff. But it isn't UV sensitive.

Radbox - The new Rev 2 radbox is made of plastic and is fragile. The older original model was made of steel and much sturdier. Unfortunately they don't make the steel model any more and PTS is sold out on them too. You might want to see if you can get some aluminum stock and just make yourself some standoffs instead. If you do go with the radbox, make a couple of standoffs for the end of the rad furthest away from the radbox to keep from stressing it in case you bump the rad or something. My plastic rev 2 radbox is in a drawer because it's so fragile.

Points to think about: Barbs, you will need them. You can go regular barbs such as the Bitspower/Fatboys or you can go compression fittings. If you go compression fittings, be sure to get the correct ones for the diameter and thickness of your tubing.
 
OP
nicayotte

nicayotte

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2007
Location
WisCANson
kk well i will get that resev and a different water block 4 cpu also i am adding a second radiator when the card comes.


So does the mpc335 work with the the laing arcylic?
 
Last edited:
OP
nicayotte

nicayotte

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2007
Location
WisCANson
I was planning on adding a second radiator n stuff when the card comes and we truly see how hot it runs. Am i correct that the MPC335 works with the laing arcylic top yes?
 

Conumdrum

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Location
Small town Emlenton, PA
Ohh you see the New rads with the pumps built in from Swiftech? Very nice! Makes for a very clean setup. They cost more than the total of the seperate parts, but very nice stuff.
 
OP
nicayotte

nicayotte

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2007
Location
WisCANson
Also it had been awhile since I have done a loop. What order do you suggest?
Pump/Rez to rez f to CPU then back?
 

4GHZ_or_bust

Now 6GHz or Bust!
Joined
Aug 1, 2002
Location
Michigan
Generally you won't need a chipset cooler unless you lived in Death Vally and have no A/C to cool things, or are going to run your PC in extreme overclocked (ie double the stock CPU frequency), air is generally good enough for chipset. Same with RAM.
 
OP
nicayotte

nicayotte

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2007
Location
WisCANson
One more question, whats a good technique or way people have been mounting a 120.3 rad in the front of the case? I haven't found anything specific after doing some hunting.