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Please review this water cooling loop with a coupld of questions

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C

chedderslam

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Sep 6, 2009
Ok, so I've read all the guides and such in the stickies, and here is what I came up with. This is my first water cooled set up. This will be for a i7 920 on the EVGA Classified board. Plan to run this loop for shipset and cpu only, with a second for the graphics down the line.

Hoping to get around 4.0 Ghz with this.

Plan to run 1/2" tubing for the loop.

Is there a better water block for the CPU?

Not sure what to use for the liquid. Please recommend. Read the sticky and it looks like PrimoChill PC ICE is a good choice. What should I add to it to stop growth?

Not sure if I need the tubing I selected. Would prefer something that is uv blue, but want the benefit of anti-microbe from the silver tubing.

Do I need any fittings or anything? What do I use to attach the hoses to the barbs? Are compression fittings better? I'm willing to spend the money on them if someone can recommend any to me.

Getting 12 feet of tubing. Is that enough for this loop plus a second graphics card loop down the line?

Do I need the shroud? Looking for low noise solution here, so if it will help I will buy it.

Lastly, and most importantly(I think), is this creating a mixed metal loop? I think everything is copper but I see a lot of different materials in the items descriptions, so i'm not sure what is actually making contact with the water.

Edit: Changed to proper size tubing. Unfortunately, it is out of stock. If anyone knows where I can buy it that would be great. Will update with fittings shortly.

Edit: Added 8 fittings for 1/4 to 1/2 and 10 clamps. Added 4 fittings for radiators. Eventually going with two loops so 4 fittings.

Thanks!


This is the case it is going in to, putting my old computer in there as well for web/db server(yes I know it is expensive):
Ascension - Duality (Mirror Black Powder Coat)

Loop:
EK EVGA 3x SLI X58 Classified Full Board Cooling Block Kit
Swiftech Apogee™ GTZ CPU Waterblock
ThermoChill PA120.3 3x120mm High Performance Radiator - 15mm Spacing
Laing DDC-3.2 (18W)/Swiftech MCP355 Inline 12V DC Pump
XSPC Dual DDC Bay Reservoir
Tygon® Silver Antimicrobial Tubing 1/2in. ID 3/4in. OD # AS600038
KwikCut Advance SL100SS Stainless Steel Tube Cutter - Orange
EK High Flow Fittings G 1/4 to 1/2in. ID Barb - 8 TOTAL
Breeze Miniature Hose Clamp 7/16 in. to 25/32 in. - 10 TOTAL
EK High Flow Fittings G 3/8 to 1/2in. ID Barb - 4 TOTAL
 
Last edited:
Woohoo! Welcome Chedder!

My post at Toms, just done a few minutes ago.
.........................
I'll post this then ask you to move to OC Forums with the answers I'm giving you. Then ya can start again. You need to be on a real watercooling forum, not on Toms.

You aren't using 1/2 hose. Your using 3/8" ID, please be specific.
I think the 3/8" ID hose is too small myself.

The CPU block you chose is very good as is the pump, rad, and pump top.

Buy UV tubing, you don't need the Tygon silver. Get some primochill 7/16ID 5/8OD UV blue from Jab-Tech or wherever. 8' of tubing is enough, get 10' and you'll have enough to add a GPU later and have enough to cover fo any mistakes.

The BEST liquid is distilled water and Petras PHN nuke. Or ONE Ianh Silver Killcoil from Petras.

Compression fittings look better. Barbs with hoseclamps work just as well and are cheaper. Compression fittings are also fatter total OD and have trouble fitting in close proximity with another compression fitting. Many start with barbs and migrate to compression fitting on later builds as they get more knoledgabel of fitting them. I still use barbs. They are perfectly fine.

Just go barbs for your first build. Buy these: Dangerden FB (Fat Boy) G 1/4 Fittings - 1/2" Barb. Thats 1/2" OD and G1/4 threads. 7/16" ID hose fits well. Use worm gear hose clamps. If you can find the lined ones better, but not required.

Your RAD needs G3/8 thread barbs tho, not G1/4 thread, so pay attention to that, you'll need two for the rad, the rest of your rig is G1/4.

You didn't list a res. Did you mean to say the XSPC restop for your pump?
Your parts are copper, brass, nickle and chrome. No mixed metal issues there.

You don't need a tubing cutter, but they are nice.
 
A shroud removes the dead spot on the back of the fan. If the fins are close to the hub/motor of the fan there is really no air flow over that area of the rad. It also helps straghten the air out, less turbulence, less noise by a tiny bit.

Martin did a test and showed exactly the benefits.

You do get better temps by a little bit. I have a shroud on my PA 120.3, I was like you now when I started. "It must help, I must spend the money". Now? Meeh, I never push my rads heat loads to the point where it would help much at all.

You can find his home here, he's retired now. Skinnee has mirrored it.
It's an important bookmark on my brouser.
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/
http://www.skinneelabs.com/
 
Auto parts stores, the place on the web I buy em from is out.

Except this one.
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/4...amp_for_58_OD_to_34_OD_Tubing.html?tl=g30c289

Pay attention to the OD of the tubing your gonna get.

Stores (US)
http://www.dangerden.com
http://www.petrastechshop.com/
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
http://www.jab-tech.com/
http://www.performance-pcs.com
http://www.frozencpu.com/

I don't like the herbie clips as much, they just aren't as secure. Like I said, lined ones are nice, but the unlined ones work just fine. They mark the tubing a bit, but many of us replace the hose once a year anyway. Ohh most of the clips on my rig right now are unlined.
 
I know the case is a bit much, but I want to have two computers in the same case, which it will allow me to do.

As for the chipset waterblock. I was originally going to get this board:
EVGA E758-A1 3-Way SLI (x16/x16/x8) LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail

However, it uses a fan for the chipset, which I am trying to eliminate for noise concerns. I couldn't find a block for it what would cover everything, so I decided to go with the Classified.

I know that the chipset water block is a bit of overkill, but since I'm watercooling the cpu, I might as well do the chipset as well. Should look better.

TUBING. Not sure what to go with at this point. I thought 1/2 was the right choice. Also, looks are a concern. Not sure what would look best. With the Classified board, I was thinking black tubing. I like the anti micro silver stuff though. What diameter would work best for this loop? I would need to get different fittings as well.

Compression fitting are really expensive, so I guess I will go with barbs.

I read that PrimoChill PC ICE was good stuff, but I can't find it anywhere, so I will be going with distilled water and Petra'sTech PT_Nuke -PHN.

I appreciate all the input. Hope to get this list finalized soon.
 
Ok, so I found some PrimoChill ICE in stock:
PrimoChill ICE

It comes with a biocide already in there, so I guess I don't need to add any? Also, it comes with green UV dye. I'm a little concerned about adding dye. Can the dye reduce performance or cause problems? If I go the UV route, I guess I will need clear tubing as well. Not sure if I should use water or PrimoChill... I like the idea of non-conductive though.
 
Conumdrum said:
Why are you buying an expensive liquid? It's your stuff. Maybe you should read this.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=3837299

Distilled water, a biocide, and UV tubing is what you should get. I spoke my piece, it's your choice.
Click to expand...

No, you're right. I will go with distilled water. I'm kind of scared to add anything now. I saw a silver coil that goes into the tubing. Is that better than a nuke stuff, or can I run both?
 
Yes, thats the Ianh Silver kill coil. You only need it. It lasts forever, you kinda push into the tubing, anywhere really, it stays right there. or you can use Petras PHN Nuke. The bottle lasts forever, you only need like 4 drops for any loop. I use both, but I'm pretty anal about this stuff. You only need one. Ohh if you order the tiny stuff from Petras, look at the USPS (normal post office) shipping, very cheap.

Thats good tubing. And yes, 7/16" ID you should soak the end in very hot water, not boiling for ohh 5 seconds then push it on. I use 1/2ID 3/4"OD tubing, it fits fine on the barbs with good clamps and it doesn't have to be cut off if you need to change something. The 7/16ID 5/8OD is a bit thinner OD so it's not so fat looking. Good stuff.

You can see my tubing on my rig here.
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=604016
 
Nice looking rig. Yeah, the tubing you used looks kinda big. Not crazy about having to cut tubing to get it off or having to soak it in water before application. I could go either way. I still have time to decide.
 
No, definitely not. Distilled water is non conductive. It's had the minerals that would be conductive removed. Every coolant under the son will become slightly conductive as it runs through your loop, because it will leach off metal ions. That Feser stuff is all marketing. Don't waste your money. Distilled water + PT Nuke (or a silver kill coil) is all you need.
 
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