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Project: Kuya's Kase

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Kuya

Registered
Joined
Jan 8, 2007
First off, I just want to say "Hello" to everyone, I'm relatively new to these forums. I would just like to say that this is my first WC setup, and that this project is nothing spectacular compared to what most people do on these forums *pokes Captain Slug* but since it's my first attempt at water cooling I didn't want to overdue it.

The idea's behind the project (skip this part if you just want to see specs/pics):
-First off, the case. I love the P180, since it first came out I was wow'd by its design features. It has the PSU on the bottom, has many QuietPC features, and is made by Antec! Plus, the door isn't plastic and has a magnet to hold it shut... smexy...
-I love UV lights! I think they way they can make UV reactive components glow is especially entrancing... also, when you're watching a movie, playing a game in the dark, or leaving your computer on over night the lights dont get annoying. My first case had 7 fans with blue LED's... it made it very challenging to get any sleep >.>
-Side window... I like 'em big and simple to show off all those expensive components...
-Radiator, the radiator will be mounted on top of the case. I'm going to have the rad completely seperate from the inside of the case. I'm using the Pa 120.3 shroud to lift the rad 4cm from the top of the case, then cutting holes in the shroud so that air can be pulled threw them. On top of the rad will be 3x120mm fans that will be blowing upwards. This will keep the internal temps of the case much cooler and the radiator will receive a little more passive cooling from the environment outside the case. Plus heat rises... makes since to put the hot pieace on the top and blow the heat up, no sense fighting physics. =^.^=


Components:
Case: Antec P180B (Black)
CPU: Intel C2D E6600
GPU: XFX 7900 GS (no $$ for the 8800 >.< )
RAM: 2x1gb Corsair XMS2 PC6400
Mobo: P5B Deluxe
HD: Seagate 250gb SATA

Pump: MCP355 w/Petra's Top
Radiator: Thermochill PA 120.3
Tubing: 1/2" ID Clear Tygon w/UV Blue Smart Coils
CPU Water Block: Apogee GT
GPU Water Block: MCW60 (Swiftech)
GPU RAM Water Block: MCW-Ramcool (Swiftech)



This is how I plan to route my tubing (nothing special):
p180opendu3.jpg


The window will be cut 1" from all sides with rounded corners, and the UV cold cathodes will be hidden like so:
p180binsidecopypo6.jpg


Sound Reactive Cold Cathodes:
This is a tentative idea, and would be the very last thing I do in this build but... the drive bay where the 3.5" floppy is supposed to be mounted is actually wide enough to hold a 5.25" drive, so I'm going to mount this speaker system facing inwards, towards the INSIDE of the computer, http://www.xoxide.com/thermaltake-xpeaker.html. The biggest problem with sound activated CC's is that they have trouble picking up sounds from the speakers outside the computer. The mics for the CC's will be placed right infront of this speaker and the whole thing will be hidden in this floppy drive bay. I'm going to hide three 4" cold cathodes, one blue, one green, and one red. Each will be calibrated to react to different sound frequencies so my comp will flash colors on certain bass/treble frequencies or when you hear gunshots/nades bouncing in-game. As you can tell... I really like computer lighting. ^.^

I'll have all kinds of UV reactive stuff inside:
-UV Blue sleeving
-Green UV reactive liquid
-Blue UV reactive smart coils
-ClearNeon UV Blue spray paint (gunna spray fans, pump, and maybe parts of the chassis)
-UV firefly molx connectors
-UV orange paint marker (going to trace mobo/GPU circuits and the tops of the capacitors)

To forther highlight all th UV-ness the entire inside of the chasis will be painted black to create more contrast with the glowing UV components. Also, the mobo and graphics card are on black PVC... which helps with the effect.

A few words about computer specs:
I am going to be a bit aggressive with my goals and shoot for that 4ghz mark for the processor. Also, I puchased a 22" LCD flat panel to go along with my 17" flat panel - both monitors have the same pixel height to they should look nice next to one another. I guess we'll see...

So far all the components are ordered and on their way! I'll keep you guys updated!

-Kuya
 
Last edited:

phantasm

Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Looks good so far, one word of advice. Tke your time when installing the water cooling portion of the system. If you read my thread in the Watercooling section (Freaking out... failed install) you'll see why. Make sure your rested and can concentrate. lol.

I'll be watching your progress.
 
OP
K

Kuya

Registered
Joined
Jan 8, 2007
phantasm said:
Looks good so far, one word of advice. Tke your time when installing the water cooling portion of the system. If you read my thread in the Watercooling section (Freaking out... failed install) you'll see why. Make sure your rested and can concentrate. lol.

I'll be watching your progress.

I have read your thread... *mental note taken* =)
 

Captain Slug

Helpful Senior Member
Joined
May 23, 2001
Location
Asteroid B-612
People need to quit poking me. ;)
Just a warning, but the P180 side panels are a 3-layered sandwich of materials and it's not very easy to add a window to. If you want I would be willing to mill a window into your side panel for you. Accomplishing it with anything else could prove very difficult.
I have the silver P180 and don't really care for it too much.
 
OP
K

Kuya

Registered
Joined
Jan 8, 2007
Captain Slug said:
People need to quit poking me. ;)
Just a warning, but the P180 side panels are a 3-layered sandwich of materials and it's not very easy to add a window to. If you want I would be willing to mill a window into your side panel for you. Accomplishing it with anything else could prove very difficult.
I have the silver P180 and don't really care for it too much.

You don't think a Dremel and a diamond wheel can handle the job? >.<
 
OP
K

Kuya

Registered
Joined
Jan 8, 2007
Btw... thx for the offer Slug, my uncle's a machinest, so it looks like I'll be making a trip to his shop... =/

Edit: Oooo.... nice linky. Almost the same designs >.> I feel unoriginal. >.<
 
Last edited:

Goshawk

Member
Joined
May 29, 2005
Location
Sprinkles!
Lookin good so far :) It might be easier to have the drain port on the back of the case instead of the bottom - it might be easier to drain the system if you ever need to.

Also, don't feel like your unoriginal... Nothing ever goes as planned - 3var :bday: whether it's blowing something up, or a plan change/creative spin into something else. I'm looking forward to the plans fruition :)


~ Gos
 

pejcao

Registered
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Location
Caracas/Vzla
from the first pic looks like fill/drain are located on the oposite places of yer pump.
The upper one is the DRAIN, so the pump PUSHES the water OUT.
The lower is where the pump PULLS water into the loop, hence FILL
0.02$
 

DvBoard

Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2005
Location
Mars
pejcao said:
from the first pic looks like fill/drain are located on the oposite places of yer pump.
The upper one is the DRAIN, so the pump PUSHES the water OUT.
The lower is where the pump PULLS water into the loop, hence FILL
0.02$
It's labled correctly. These pumps don't "suck" the water up and gravity will do the draining.
 
OP
K

Kuya

Registered
Joined
Jan 8, 2007
Small Update...

I used a bowl to measure window size XD
dsci0007qj0.jpg




Here's a rough cut using a Dremel tool... I got too eager to wait for a milling machine:
dsci0012ff6.jpg




Finished cutting the window, started installing the window molding...
dsci0029ms4.jpg




There's a gap because the camera broke... but I painted inside chassis jet black and installed the plexiglass. Threw a few components in for looks... still a long ways to go.
dsci0033db1.jpg




Thats it for now... next update will be UV stuffs... maybe watercooling if that shroud ever gets here >.>
 

JudgeDredd

Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2002
Location
Austin, Texas
How hard was it to cut a window on that panel? I thought those panels were supposed to be double layered and I figured that that might make it hard to cut. Were the edges real rough? I'd like to do something similar, except not use molding to hold the window in place. Would it have been possible to clean up the edges real nice?
 

megaez

Registered
Joined
May 28, 2005
Just helped my friend cut out the space for his window on his P180B but now we are kinda stuck. We weren't counting on the side panel being so thick. He got his window mod kit from Frozencpu.com and the molding looks like it isn't thick enough to support the thickness of his panel. So we were just wanting to know what size molding you used for your window mod?
 

knight_of_knee

Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Springfield, Missouri
Yeah I just cut a hole in the side of my P180b that megaez was helping me with but the molding doesn't seem to be big enough to fit the case, although I've read at other forums that it's possible it just takes 2 people to do. I tried looking around at local hardware stores and auto stores for a bigger molding but nothing has shown up. So I think I'm going to try and put the regular molding and window in today and see how it works out.